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Title: Roof paint
Post by: danielmeguel/1974 MCI on January 16, 2010, 11:09:08 AM
Hello fellow busnuts and busnutietts. A few years ago somebody posted a white paint to use on the exterior of roof that I believe Sudi Arabia uses on their buses. Any remember that? Any information will help. Thank you in advance...Danielmeguel MCI8 1974


Title: Re: Roof paint
Post by: Lin on January 16, 2010, 01:48:02 PM
Not sure what you mean.  I have used Kool Seal and think it is fine.  Most would prefer that it is not visible from the ground though.


Title: Re: Roof paint
Post by: JohnEd on January 16, 2010, 02:27:02 PM
Daniel,

The real benefit in that paint is the brilliant WHITE Hi Gloss that reflects a great amt of the suns energy.  High quality pure white automotive paint is your best bet.  This point is "hotly" contested....and I mean it is fierce.  I will do a test that I think most will accept as accurate in a few days and I will publish the results.

John


Title: Re: Roof paint
Post by: ruthi on January 16, 2010, 04:28:55 PM
Waiting on those test results, although as you know we are convinced of the product already, ;D


Title: Re: Roof paint
Post by: JohnEd on January 16, 2010, 05:19:02 PM
Ruthi,

I still luv ya and what you believe about paint won't change that. 

That guy you sent me to was charming and seemed "real" if you follow that.  I asked for a smidgen of the product to do a test that should have scarred him and he sent me a friggen quart.  You definitely do deal with nice people.  Now I'll feel guilty if this goes as i suspect.

A while ago in this very topic, you have to know that it goes back a ways, on of the knuts called the mfr and talked to "someone" that told him the only real benefit of using the stuff was in getting the roof "white".  Long ago now, and as  recall, that "reply" didn't seem to draw the attention I was certain  it would.  I have been  wrong sooooo mannnny times.

News soon.

John


Title: Re: Roof paint
Post by: ruthi on January 17, 2010, 06:13:37 AM
Hey John, ditto, but..........if the only benefit is being white, how come they sell it in black also? The guy you talked to recommeded that we  put the black on the windsheild behind the cabinets that we are building up there. Also, he said that we can also paint the top to match the bus if wanted. Anyway, you are right about not changing our minds. We have seen and felt the difference in before and after. The ice test should convince anyone that it is not just the color. I dont think the ice knew if the pan was white or black, lol.  ;D  Im sure not out there to convince anyone they should do it our way. All I can do is tell our experience, so what if they dont stay as cool or warm as us, lol, :o ::) ;D  Its all good, still interested in hearing what test you do, and your results. Anyone interested should do as we did and call for a sample and run their own test tho. Take care John, Ruthi


Title: Re: Roof paint
Post by: Dreamscape on January 17, 2010, 06:29:30 AM
We used an elastomeric white roof coating from one of the box stores, Lowes I think. That was in 2004. It doesn't chalk but it's a rough surface and hard to keep clean. It does a good job in helping keep our coach cool. Would I do it again, not sure. It'll be a job removing what's up there if I change my mind. I did remove the area painted with the stuff where I put up our Zip Dee Patio Awning with a heat gun, and it peeled right up in small sheets. I think white paint or what ruthi used is the way to go. Oh, the fun we have! ;D

Just my two cents.

Paul


Title: Re: Roof paint
Post by: JackConrad on January 17, 2010, 08:17:03 AM
Whatever you use, the brightest white you can get will reflect the most heat and the smoother the surface, the easier to keep it bright white.  Jack


Title: Re: Roof paint
Post by: Nellie Wilson on January 17, 2010, 11:33:35 AM
FWIW –

Some guys at Cherry Point Marine Air Base suggested the paint NASA developed for the space shuttle:Super slick, super white and great insulation properties. They use it to protect the tiles from absorbing heat during re-entry.

Don’t know a source but – as I recall – someone on BNO mentioned it in a thread awhile back.

Nellie Wilson


Title: Re: Roof paint
Post by: ruthi on January 17, 2010, 03:34:07 PM
http://tcceramic.com/ (http://tcceramic.com/)    Link for product. We used it. Call and talk to them. Good people. I looked up lots of references for them, and they sent me a sample to do a test on. Ck it out.


Title: Re: Roof paint
Post by: Nellie Wilson on January 17, 2010, 06:05:07 PM
Thanks Ruthie -

Read through their site and am 95% convinced. How did it work for you?

Nellie Wilson


Title: Re: Roof paint
Post by: ruthi on January 17, 2010, 06:55:47 PM
We put it on the new conversion. Not only did we put it on the roof, but also on the inside of the bus too, on the walls and the floor. They told us that not only does it work to keep heat out, but in the winter, it will reflect the heat from your heat system back in and wont let it escape, so, less heating is required. Also, it will help to keep road heat out. It also helps with sound deadening. We also put the black in the engine compartment, as well as the gen compartment. We got the chance to see it applied on an exhaust system on a generator. You can put you hand on it and not get burned. They sent us a piece of it and told us to put it in a fry pan and put it on the stove and put a piece of ice on it, and the ice cube did not melt. That was pretty impressive. I took us about 3 months of investigating and questioning the guy at TC , and finally doing the test to be convinced. Since putting it on the roof, the difference is astounding Before we finished insulating and putting up the ceiling, we could touch an area where there was no ceramic, and it was so hot, you could not keep your hand there. Then touched a spot where it was at, and it was room temp. Cha Ching, that sold us for sure and assured us it was money well spent.


Title: Re: Roof paint
Post by: Lin on January 17, 2010, 07:34:51 PM
Ruthi,

I noticed the website did not least prices.  I always see that as a bad sign.  How much did a bucket cost?


Title: Re: Roof paint
Post by: ruthi on January 17, 2010, 07:44:41 PM
My mind in blank there right now ::) But, it is pricey. I will ask hubby tomorrow. He is out of state working. It seems to me we spent around 800 on it, but we got enough to do the entire bus, inside and out, as well as gen comp. and engine, and top of windsheild. We have done most of it now, except for windsheild, and I already know we bought more than we needed. It goes a long ways.  But,,,,,,,,if it makes it more comfortable, and energy efficient, then it was worth it. I have to admit, we did over kill on the insulation. But, when you start from scratch, you only get one shot at it.  ;D   One more note, it is lifetime. Once it is applied, it is never coming off. You cannot even chisel it off.


Title: Re: Roof paint
Post by: Nellie Wilson on January 17, 2010, 11:04:23 PM
I found this site

http://www.hytechceramics.com/ (http://www.hytechceramics.com/)

got a lot of info and prices, very interesting, they work with the NASA and are in Florida.

Nellie


Title: Re: Roof paint
Post by: NewbeeMC9 on January 18, 2010, 04:44:35 AM
I found this site

http://www.hytechceramics.com/ ([url]http://http://www.hytechceramics.com/[/url])

got a lot of info and prices, very interesting, they work with the NASA and are in Florida.

Nellie


I added this to my roof paint when I had it painted.  I have original insulation and need any extra I can get.  Since it was getting painted anyway,the bag of ceramics was only around $60 more. So I thought I would risk it for the chance of more insulation.


Title: Re: Roof paint
Post by: Nellie Wilson on January 18, 2010, 05:04:51 AM
Hey Newbee

Thanks for the info, but you left out the punchline. .. how did the stuff work?

Inquiring minds want to know  :)

Nellie


Title: Re: Roof paint
Post by: NewbeeMC9 on January 18, 2010, 05:39:24 AM
I had it painted white for it's benefits too so who's to say :)(radiant and dirt showing benefits).  No official test data and hadn't worried about it.   

There was issues with the painter so it ended up mixed in with the clearcoat, I like the traction when on top of bus but turns dirty when parked under tree.  Bleached water followed by sunlight snaps it out.

Had a thermometer sitting in there with the max needle on it. and it would only get in the mid 90's sitting in the southern sun facing north.  Again it is white.

Opinion :o    I would not use it in place of closed cell foam, or paint it just to add it. If I was painting the roof anyway, I would probably add it again.  I would use white.       That's mine and is not guaranteed for accuracy or longevity. :D


I am interested in Johns test


Title: Re: Roof paint
Post by: Nellie Wilson on January 18, 2010, 06:14:01 AM
Newbee -

Thanks for the explanation. But now I'm totally confused (per usual). I like hearing about your temp staying in the 90s, but the other stuff...?

I mean, my roof is in great shape (just scrubbed it down) but it's not white - white... more of a cream color. I've got only original insulation (in the roof) and would like an alternative to disassembling things (already built my upper cabinets, etc.) to add insulation. But other than that, I wouldn't paint it.

Shoot!  Back to the old drawing board. Or just wait to hear the results of John's tests? Yup, that's what I'll do... waiting is much easier than thinking :).

Nellie Wilson


Title: Re: Roof paint
Post by: ruthi on January 18, 2010, 06:28:53 AM
Nellie, from what I am told, the paint additive was the first to come out. The stuff at TC is the latest, and it is not a paint additive. You can paint over it if you want to though. One other thing I didnt mention is it is a great sealent to, your roof could never possibly leak with the product applied. Anyhow, I dont have any investment here with what ever you decide to use, your decision, ;D  Just like to let others know about stuff that I find that is good. Good luck!


Title: Re: Roof paint
Post by: Nellie Wilson on January 18, 2010, 06:43:52 AM
Thanks Ruthi -

I'm still leaning hard in your direction; like you, I always want to hear from 'real' folks who have tried these products... and your results sound like what I need. BTW, is that TC stuff slick and easy to clean?

Just an eccentricity, but I hate a dirty roof. Fellow asked me yesterday, "Why? Nobody can see it."

And I responded that people in second story windows can see it, and people on overpasses. And birds a and squirrels too. Guys! Just can't think out of their own little box.

Nellie Wilson


Title: Re: Roof paint
Post by: 4905 doc on January 18, 2010, 06:44:47 AM
when we got our 4905 it already had a white roof.  it was late spring in florida when we started converting. you could not hold your hand on the ceiling for more than a few seconds without getting burned. cost was our concern, so we used kool-seal that I bought at the big box store. first coat... what a difference. you could touch the ceiling all day. I put a second coat on just because. figured it wouldn't hurt. 2 five gallon cans did the job. Like others have said, roof had a rough texture to it. but, it's a roof. not like you spend all day up there ;D


Title: Re: Roof paint
Post by: 4905 doc on January 18, 2010, 06:46:16 AM
Nellie, you posted as I was. guess I made your point about guy's didn't I? ;D


Title: Re: Roof paint
Post by: Nellie Wilson on January 18, 2010, 06:52:11 AM

4905 doc -

Yup. Out of the mouths of babes... :)

Nellie


Title: Re: Roof paint
Post by: ruthi on January 18, 2010, 03:59:12 PM
Nellie, no, it is not a smooth surface, but, that is what a power washer is for. We always wash the top of the bus anyways. And, no, power washing it cannot hurt it. ;D


Title: Re: Roof paint
Post by: JohnEd on February 04, 2010, 01:24:56 PM
Ruthi,

Well, I finally got around to doing my "experiment" with the ceramic paint insulation.  I am glad to report that I MUST EAT MY WORDS....sorta.  That ceramic paint actually does work.  Read on.

I have little doubt that almost anyone with a credential will be able to argue with the validity of my tests, such as they are.  For me, this is a lot like the "game" of HAND GRENADES, close counts.  I evaluated insulation performance using an kitchen oven and a 7 pound piece of 2X2 solid steel bar.  I compared the speed and extent of temp rise of the steel under different circumstances/conditions.  The temp of the oven is held to 200-209 degrees F and the time the steel is heat soaked is held to 1 hour for all cases except one.

1.   Clean bar......75 degrees at the start to 187 after a hour for a delta of 112 degrees.

2.   painted with one coat...79 to 179 delta102

3.   painted with three thick coats...70 to 164 delta 94

This clearly shows that the ceramic is in fact a measurable insulation in thin coats and that "more" is better and that also seems to be the rule of thumb in matters insulation.

I also did the same test using Isocy aluminum coated foam board.  That is te best stuff after spray foam I believe:

1.   Encased steel bar in 2inch thick close fitting foam box (six sided).  The temp rise for this experiment was much to slow to allow confidence in asingle hour of heat soak so I left it in the oven for 4 hours.  I originally wanted to do this particular phase of the experiment for 8 hours.  Unfortunately, if I stay close enuf to the kitchen to hear the oven timer I gain weight rapidly so I cut it to 4 hours.  75 degrees at the start and finished the four hour soak at 127 for a delta of 52 degrees for the four hours.  I divided the total delta by 4 to get the one hour heat gain of 13 degrees.  In this case, unlike sex, less is more.

With foam providing an inslation performsance(I made that up) of 13 degrees for.   two inches, you would need to have 112/8 coats to equal the erformance of te two inches of foam.  That is 14 thick coats...give or take.  I can cover 32 square feet with $35 worth of foam board.  I have never purchased the ceramic paint so maybe you can tell  me what 14 coats of an area or 32 sq feet would cost assuming you would need to cover 448 square feet. I applied the stuff with a 2 inch brush and it was thick as custard so I think that getting a uniform coat would require spray application with a lot of thinning or a texture coat gun if you don't thin it.  Your number will provide cost effectiveness info.

I cam honestly say that if I had to get "some"insulation performance from a 1/16 or 1/8 thick gap I would use the ceramic.

Were I you I would put foam board inside the glass.  I guess black would be as good as any color as the window will absorb most of the heat anyway and try to dump half of it inside.

This product is very light when dry.  It is soft enuf for me to press my thumb nail into it.  It would be unsuitable as an exterior coating for a roof due to its dirt pick up performance.  A high gloss white would be the best performer...So says UPS as they paint the roofs of their trucks white.  Thanks for the picture, who ever sent it so long ago.

If you are applying this paint inside a metal surface then color would not mean anything as  you are not reflecting anything.


Now, to get that nap outta the way,

John





Title: Re: Roof paint
Post by: john9861 on February 04, 2010, 01:59:34 PM
John,
       Very good experiment. Since you have the necessary materials to conduct this type of experiment I was hoping to talk you into doing one more. I'm looking to find out if a certain thickness of polyiso board will be enough to satisfy protection from the outside temps. Since I have the polyiso board on hand at a fraction of the cost new I plan to use it instead of the blown foam. I have 1/2". I plan to use 2 layers. It would be great if we could find out 2 things. The temp of the metal after a certain soak. But this time take the reading at each hour. We might find that the rate of increase goes up faster in the latter sector of the experiment. Just curious. The other issue is to not have the steel inside the box, just air. Find the temp in this case as it would be somewhat representative of the inside air in the coach.  Or if you are limited in materials just use your 2" thick material with just air inside. this would be a great help in determining the usefulness of the polyiso board. Anyway, hope you're willing! ;D
John


Title: Re: Roof paint
Post by: JohnEd on February 04, 2010, 03:24:20 PM
John,Thank you for your comments.  It will be a cold day in hell when something like this s posted and isn't picked at by many.  And in this case picked at with justification.

I used that big chunk of steel cause the bigger the item(more mass) the slower the reaction.  If I had lab equip(and somebody that had a clue) I could do the same experiment in minutes.

I don't think that what you are suggesting will be of much use to you.  I think it is a given that you can only get to a level of insulation performance that is "adequate or satisfactory" for you.  The rule is that you do it as well and to theextent that your wallet or sweat will support and then "there you are".  The proof is in the pudding and when you are done the clincher is how much one of those 1,500 watt heaters raises the temp.  I can get a 30 degree delta with all windows filmed, AC outlet stuffed full o FG and one person on board.  When the temp gets down to 44 F I have to bring another heater on line for the additional 30 degree delta and then I can tolerate temps down to 14 degrees.  I have 8 inches of foam in the roof and that is as good as that coach will ever get and it isn't that bad.  YMMV

You said you had lots of that 1 inch polyiso and that's great.  If it were free I would be sorely tempted.  Cut it a half inch under and glue it ti to wall.  Shoot small shots of the canned poly foam in the edges to prevent squeaking.  Ace looks to have cut his 1/ inch over and pressed the sheets in place.   I never heard him comment on squeaks going down the road.  That would tend to drive ya nuts tho.

Consider that you will want to get every cubic inch in the overhead filled with that foam board.  Might that not be 4 inches in most and 6 in other areas?  the little odd spaces need to be stuffed with FG or shot with foam. The floor needs at least a couple inches of foam board.  Some of that can be glued to the overhead of the compartment but I would opt for two layers of interlocking ply wood with an inch, at the very min, of foam in betweed.  Using two inches would use 320sq ft or 10 sheets per layer of 1 inch.  20 bottom, 30 roof, and 40 for the sides???  is that "lots" you have about 110 sheets?  You can check my math and compensate for the windows and such. At $35/sheet of 2 inch, the price here, and you need 55 sheets.... that's almost a couple grand and they will shoot it for around a grand and trim it and that "solid" construction will yield a much more quiet and better insulated bus.  I would use sheet for the floor and a single layer wherever it was open and convenient and spray over those places.  But if it is free and you have the time you can save a grand.   would spray all except the floor and the overhead in the bays and sell the rest to other converters.

Double pane glass and pastic frames that don't conduct heat are a must.  If the frame isn't at least isolated they will sweat badly in the winter

I will help you with whatever experiment you might find useful.

John

I hope these are some ideas you can ponder and it helps you with your final.   A big problem is air permeation while driving down the road.  Foam solves this problem very well but you cancertainly caulk and gasket everything to air tight.  A 1 sq inch hole can induct a LOT of warm/cold air with the pressure you get at the front at 60.


Title: Re: Roof paint
Post by: ruthi on February 04, 2010, 03:57:53 PM
Hi John. Well, you are getting a little too technical for me to follow, ???  but....... I see where your test didnt prove it to help that much. There needs to be a heat source on one side of the metal, so that it can reflect the heat outward. That is why they recommend using the ice cube test. Placing it in the oven, there is nowhere for the heat to be reflected to. It is suppose to be put on with a sprayer, and it is not to be diluted. We used an accousticle type sprayer. When I can put my hand on the roof metal,  in 100 degree heat, and get burned, and then put my hand where the ceramic was sprayed,and it is cool,  that is enough convincing for me. It really isnt anything to be compared to foam insulation. Two different uses. It has no insulation value, it is reflecting the heat. I dont know how you were able to press your fingernail into it, as we have it on the top of our bus, and you couldnt chisel it off it you wanted to. ;D It may get dirty , but, we have a power washer for that, and a lot of other products will also get dirty. Hey, I can deal with getting a little dirty, if it means staying cool. :o  Anyhow, its all good John, take care and hope to see ya this year sometime. If anyone wants anymore info on the product we used, feel free to contact us.  Happy busin. Ruthi


Title: Re: Roof paint
Post by: gus on February 04, 2010, 04:06:54 PM
Does anyone know of a roof coating as good as this TC Ceramic that has a nice smooth surface?

Power washing the roof is way down on my list of fun things.


Title: Re: Roof paint
Post by: john9861 on February 04, 2010, 04:30:05 PM
John,
       In my area getting the bus spray foamed is about $1700. That doesn't include shaving. It also has no guaruntee against warping the siding from the heat during the curing process. Anyway the boards I have were $3 each. So I think you can see why I was interested in seeing if it would be enough. Also for me A/C is more of a concern. Anyway, it was a thought. Thanks, John


Title: Re: Roof paint
Post by: JohnEd on February 05, 2010, 02:07:05 AM
John9861,

At three bucks a sheet I think I would do the sheets.  The R factor delta between them is only "1" so or performance they are pretty much equal but spray is better

At three bucks I want some ::) ;D No kidding though, if you are a source I think many would want your help.

Ruthi,

I think if you read my post again you will See that the ceramic is a BETTER insulation than foam.  Problem is that you would have to build up many coats.  I didn't price the ceramic paint but I think in the past it came in very expensive and out of the question for getting R14 in the walls.  Being white it will do a great job at reflecting sun loading.  That will make it appear to have high R value but in reality R value is a resistance to transmit radiated or conduction.  The ice cube test is a heat conduction test.  That test proves that the ceramic has some R value  I don't know why the mfr doesn't spec an R value.  Heck, there is even a spec for plywood or brick or stone.  The stuff did way better than I expected but then I thought this was the little glass bead thing again.  I learned something here, Ruthi.  I was going to give the remainder of the quart  was given away to any bus Knut that wanted it.  Changed my mind on that and will keep it as it has "special applications" performance.

Thanks again,

John


Title: Re: Roof paint
Post by: JohnEd on February 05, 2010, 02:19:23 AM
Gus,

Use a high quality auto single stage paint like Emron/acrylic enamel/acrylic laquer/poly???.  Talk to your painter supply store.  You can paint this yourself.  You need masking machine...$30.  Masking plastic10 foot width folded....$40,  blue tape....$60,   Paint @$200...., and other products for dewaxing and sanding guess $100, Harbor Freight spray gun on sale for $29 fully adjustable and a DA sander with it.  And $30 worth of rolled round sanding discs from the paint supply..  And a place with still air and compressor air that has no oil and wet down the road or parking lot or building floor very well before painting.  Be sure you use whatever breathing equipment the shop recommends.  The finished paint will be a little rough but it is on the roof.

Good luck with this,

John


Title: Re: Roof paint
Post by: James77MCI8 on February 05, 2010, 08:00:33 PM
I stopped buy and visited with Ruthi and Ken last night during my quarterly run to Georgia, I don't know all of the specifics of everything that they have done to their Dina conversion but it is one nice piece of equipment. On the insulation part I am totally amazed at the inside temperature of their coach, considering that both windshields and all the side windows are currently out of the coach. Last night the temperature in Georgia was around 40 degrees F, a slight breeze was blowing and it was raining. The only source of heat in the coach was two incandescent work lights(100W)  hung inside the coach. The entrance door was open also. Their coach was comfortably warm! What ever Ken and Ruthi have done in the way of insulation, ceramic coatings and sealing has definitely payed off. Great job guys.  As I said last night, "This coach is going to turn some heads!"


Title: Re: Roof paint
Post by: ruthi on February 05, 2010, 08:04:53 PM
Thanks Rusty, ;D Glad you got to come by and visit. Now, there were tarps hanging on the windows, lol. We will plan next time we head your way of trying to make time to stop by your place.  Ruthi


Title: Re: Roof paint
Post by: john9861 on February 06, 2010, 06:55:43 AM
So Ruthi,
            How did you guys insulate your walls & overhead.
Thanks, John


Title: Re: Roof paint
Post by: mikke60 on February 06, 2010, 12:42:34 PM
More on the same topic. Has anyone used the procuct called snow roof? Made by the same man. as kool seal. Also,should the seams be sealed prior too,after, or atall,when using kool seal?

thanks, mike


Title: Re: Roof paint
Post by: ruthi on February 06, 2010, 04:35:29 PM
John, First we sprayed ceramic coating on the walls, and the floor. Put ceramic on the roof. At the ceiling it is spray foamed, and the bottom of the walls is spray foamed. We put three quarter inch foam board  on the floor. The walls have two and three quarter inch foam board. Ceiling has additional fiberglass insulation in  and around ac duct work. Also, we filled all the steel tubing wall supports with spray foam. We drilled a small hole in each to get it inside. We have a total R rating on the walls of 14.3.


Title: Re: Roof paint
Post by: john9861 on February 06, 2010, 06:23:16 PM
Rock & Roll! I bet you could hang meat in that baby. Great job. 8)


Title: Re: Roof paint
Post by: belfert on February 06, 2010, 07:17:16 PM
John, First we sprayed ceramic coating on the walls, and the floor. Put ceramic on the roof. At the ceiling it is spray foamed, and the bottom of the walls is spray foamed. We put three quarter inch foam board  on the floor. The walls have two and three quarter inch

Curious, did you leave the factory spray foam on the ceiling, or did you have it redone?


Title: Re: Roof paint
Post by: ruthi on February 07, 2010, 06:18:06 AM
We left it.


Title: Re: Roof paint
Post by: luvrbus on February 07, 2010, 07:22:38 AM
Guys we all do it different it was me doing a bus I would use the hot spray on bed lining materail on the roof it has a r valve, sound deaden properties,structural strength , tuff as nails and never need maintenance can be sprayed on smooth and leak proof for ever and not that much difference in price.


good luck


Title: Re: Roof paint
Post by: rwc on February 07, 2010, 10:54:21 AM
The only problem with the hot spray bedliner is that it does not come in white.


Title: Re: Roof paint
Post by: luvrbus on February 07, 2010, 11:05:13 AM
RWC, a friend of mine in ALB NM sprays the liner stuff in white Smiths Ultimate Lining he has done several buses check his web site,he does any color you like.The stuff is used for highway stripping now that is also a job he does


good luck


Title: Re: Roof paint
Post by: rwc on February 07, 2010, 12:28:26 PM
Thanks  I will keep that in mind because that would really seal the top after all your vets etc was installed.


Title: Re: Roof paint
Post by: Dreamscape on February 07, 2010, 12:42:38 PM
Thanks  I will keep that in mind because that would really seal the top after all your vets etc was installed.

Hey Rod, How close are you to the purchase? ;D

Paul


Title: Re: Roof paint
Post by: rwc on February 08, 2010, 08:05:21 AM
Hopefully this will be the year for me. BUT>>>>>>> Wife just had Bunion surgery so we will have to see how those expenses go. Always something but I'm not going to give up.


Title: Re: Roof paint
Post by: wal1809 on February 08, 2010, 11:07:47 AM
Guys we all do it different it was me doing a bus I would use the hot spray on bed lining materail on the roof it has a r valve, sound deaden properties,structural strength , tuff as nails and never need maintenance can be sprayed on smooth and leak proof for ever and not that much difference in price.


good luck


I am going to do the bedliner material in white as well.  If you look close in the pic you can see the whitish/grayish streaks from the roof paint breaking down.  I did my fishing boat with gray and it was the best thing I ever did.  I did it 6 years ago and it is still in great shape.  Before you did not want to walk on the deck in bare feet.  Now no problem at all.

(http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q234/wal1809/DSCN0507.jpg)


Title: Re: Roof paint
Post by: mikke60 on February 08, 2010, 06:18:50 PM
here is an E mail I got from the company that makes kool seal:
Mike,

Thank you for contacting KST.  We appreciate your inquiry. Snow Roof and
Kool Seal are separate lines of product from the same company.

Snow Roof is the highest quality product that we sell.  It's known as the
best in this line.  Kool Seal is a great line and may be less expensive.

If the roof of your motor home is rubber, then I would recommend Snow Roof
Elastoseal first.   Once primed with Elastoseal you can use Patching Cement
and Reinforcing Grid to patch all of the seams, vents and protrusions.
Then apply the Snow Roof White Elastomeric.

Ace Hardware, Sherwin-Williams, Do It Best Hardware and True Value Hardware
are the leading retailers in your area.  For pricing, please contact them.

Thank you in advance for your patience.  Someone will be in touch soon.

Regards,

Roger
KST Product Support

thought this may be of interest


Title: Re: Roof paint
Post by: gus on February 09, 2010, 03:41:09 PM
I emailed the TC Ceramic people and got these;

Gus
 
If sprayed with a airless sprayer, yes, it will have a smooth finish. 
 
Rich Kraft


>Gus

> First of all let me apologize for the delay in getting back to you.

> TC Ceramic has one of the best binder systems on the market for a product of this type.  It will adhere to just about any surface and stay for years.  The one thing I would caution you though is that if the surface is fairly slick, it may be a good idea to scuff it up a bit before applying our product.  Other than that, clean and dry is all you need.  A simple pressure wash and dry and the apply.

> AT 15 mils of thickness (15/1000 of an inch) which is all you need to block 99% of solar gain, you'll get about 60 square feet per gallon.  It cost $49.50 per gallon and to do the roof it would take about 8 gallons.  (considering that this is a normal size bus)  We sell our product in 5 gallon containers.

> If there are any other questions I can answer please let me know,

> Rich Kraft

> Capstone MFG., LLC
> 18225 47th PL NE
> Seattle, WA. 98155
> 206-363-5010
> 206-364-5183
> rkraft@nwlink.com
> skype: richkraft
> www.tcceramic.com (http://www.tcceramic.com)