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November 23, 2014, 05:22:45 PM *
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 1 
 on: Today at 04:34:16 PM 
Started by Dave5Cs - Last post by mung
Looks like it would make a cool mobile stage.  I should offer him my antique marble Barbie doll collection in trade.

 2 
 on: Today at 04:16:59 PM 
Started by Dave5Cs - Last post by Dave5Cs
Yep Me too that was the same it looked the last time we saw it. It looks rotted to me or it has sat out in the rain?

brmax yaaaa that's not going to happen, LOL I still have a few things to do on mine and I am done other than maintenance.

 3 
 on: Today at 04:13:45 PM 
Started by Seangie - Last post by Dave5Cs
And your point would be what? Roll Eyes Grin

 4 
 on: Today at 03:33:42 PM 
Started by wdtjawshwdt - Last post by RickB
Josh, I sent you an email on craigslist about your 6v92. Never heard back from you. I'm interested in the engine, intake and exhaust plumbing and all the DDEC stuff, air throttle etc. if it's a really good runner.

Are you interested in selling those items?

I'll PM you my contact info.

Let me know, I'm in the cities.

Rick Barron

 5 
 on: Today at 03:24:08 PM 
Started by Midwilshire - Last post by HB of CJ
Got it.  I hate getting old.  There seems to be some confusion here regarding pump specs and what they may or may not mean which will result in how they may or may not perform ... or at all. 

A pump rated to pull "UP TO" 10 feet of draft or suction, (fire department stuff) won't.  The key words here are "UP TO".   At the aforementioned 10 feet of suck, (draft) they may or may not work at all.

Let us keep this simple.  I used to teach this stuff at the fire academy and I tend to get wordy.  For any pump to suck or draft or lift water 10 feet means it needs to be in perfect shape ... or nearly so.

Once wear takes place, or any slight damage, all specs are off.  Smiley  Lifting water is not the same as pressurizing water.  A common cheap diaphragm lift pump might put out about 60 psi pressure, which ...

... Will pump water, (lift it up higher) to about 125 feet.  What the question was will his 10 foot lift pump work in a Bus Conversion.  Yes, maybe, no and never.  Dynamic situation.  Mount the pump low.

If you have the suction pipe going directly, (sideways)  (British Speeel Chez)  then the lateral length of pipe does not matter that much.  Diameter does.  Makes the suck pipe larger in diameter.

This is very important in a Bus Conversion.  Small suction pipe diameter will kill pump performance and life.  Makes it work too hard.  If possible, go to a larger diameter pipe.  Even a little bit helps.

Next comes the necessary, (probably with top mount suction pipes) bends and corners.  Try using gentle sweeps instead of abrupt right angle direction changes.  This is vital when using small diameter suction pipe.

A gate value between the pump and the tank makes sense when leaks occur and you do not want flooding.  But ... this may only be necessary if the suction intake pipe is horizontal.  Gate valves are optional.

Mount low.  Use large diameter suction pipe with gentle bends.  Less suction resistance.  Use only 1% 12VDC voltage loss in the wiring size.  Not 3% or 5%.   Consider a good FILTER.  ANY debris is not good.

Different combinations of using too small of wiring, too small of suction pipe, too many sharp suction pipe corners and too much lift, (pulling the water up out of the tank) will defeat most all self priming pumps.

End of lecture for today.  I love this Bus Conversion forum in spite of being ... BUSS-LESS!  But maybe not for long.  Another Crown Supercoach Bus Conversion would be so much fun.  What bank account? Smiley Smiley Smiley

 6 
 on: Today at 03:15:27 PM 
Started by Seangie - Last post by OneLapper
Can't be him.  I saw him in Connecticut last week.... he'd have to be driving west every day to make it to Texas.......

 7 
 on: Today at 03:11:20 PM 
Started by zubzub - Last post by mung
Yes you can use a programmable thermostat to control something besides your AC.  I used one in an AC duct to turn on a duct booster fan so that it would only run when cold air was pumping through the system.  Worked like a charm. 

 8 
 on: Today at 02:09:23 PM 
Started by zubzub - Last post by gumpy
Ok. So it seems you are trying to put in an anti-freeze system on your heater.

I think using the thermostat you have would work, but it would come on at whatever the minimum is. That's probably 55F or so, which
means most likely, your heater is going to be running quite a lot when you're not there.

I did a similar thing with my aquahot. I used a thermocouple activated industrial heat tape controller. My father-in-law had
one from a jobsite he had worked on in the 70's. It's heavy duty, but it was free. I attached the thermocouple to the distribution manifold
copper pipe. I then wired it to a 28v relay which controls the electric element in my aquahot, and also wired it to activate
the heating circuit which turns on the circulation pump and the fan in the water bay. The thermostat turns on at about 35F. I found last
week that my electic element can't keep up when temps drop to about 0, but there's no reason I couldn't have it activate the diesel burner
instead.

I realize you are trying to use stuff you already have, but maybe you can find an affordable heat tape controller somewhere.

Another idea is to find a normally open snap-disc thermostat switch that closes at around 35 and opens around 40 and attach that to your
pipes and connect to a relay coil that controls the heater.


 9 
 on: Today at 12:33:26 PM 
Started by Seangie - Last post by Tony LEE
Have you tried doing a succession of hard stops (on a deserted road) from say 50mph to 25mph. Supposed to deglaze the friction surfaces.

 10 
 on: Today at 12:13:13 PM 
Started by MC8Mike - Last post by MC8Mike
I'm in need of a set of 12v solenoids and was wondering if any of the board members have a set for sale or know where I can get a set. I have 24 volt solenoids to trade if anyone is interested in trading. Thanks and have a great day, Mike.

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