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February 13, 2016, 01:40:02 PM *
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 on: Today at 01:32:38 PM 
Started by kyle4501 - Last post by kyle4501
Kyle some friendly advice check your blurb at the bottom of your sig.
I think you meant "I even need? Maybe you didn't?
Was time to change it anyway

 on: Today at 12:51:40 PM 
Started by Seangie - Last post by TomC
Donaldson M120131.

 on: Today at 12:11:13 PM 
Started by viking1 - Last post by DMoedave
I see local paper articles every fall about local municipalities trying to get ordenances or laws passed banning wood stoves. This is the NE Pa NewYork and CT area.

 on: Today at 10:10:24 AM 
Started by thomasinnv - Last post by muldoonman
Your a goodun Cliff helping folks the way you do as I've learned a heck of a lot from you on my 2 stroke. I would jump on a complete motor or trans if I needed one and wouldn't look back.  I'm the most impatience fella around as my lovely wife puts it. Probably have to hock the wife but you gotta do what you gotta do.  Grin

 on: Today at 09:58:38 AM 
Started by Tikvah - Last post by Runcutter
Dave, Brian brought up a good point.  In transit costing and statistical reporting, route mileage is an important number.  I've been on some transit systems that will send a bus out to run a route, reading the hubodometer for mileage.  It is always inaccurate, because of tire wear.  If they chose a different bus, they'd get a different figure.  When I find that, it always has to be redone (I use a smartphone app and ride each route, gives me hundredths while all I need is tenths.)

But, the hubodometer mileage is good enough for things like maintenance needs (PM every 3000/6000 etc. miles, you'll be in the ballpark).  So, a hub designed for your revs/mile won't be anal-retentive accurate, but will be close enough.



 on: Today at 07:28:51 AM 
Started by Seangie - Last post by Seangie


That looks like it would work for me.  I've got about 36" of tailpipe that would replace.  As long as it doesn't produce much backpressure.

Maybe the resonator.  But I'll probably be straight piping it by sundown today.

Looks like if I pull the muffler I just need about 2' of flexpipe to hit the tailpipe and that should fix me up for now.  Clamps and hangers are already in place.  Might need one more hanger.

Not many parts needed to make either the resonator or the 24" Flopro work.

Thanks guys.  Hopefully this fixed my issues.


 on: Today at 07:13:50 AM 
Started by goldgiter - Last post by brmax
Sounds like we have all seen some types of these working, and as in my mention earlier faking one leg as using a capacitor is the standard.
Its seems to be used on many ac and other system motors for a long time and using the term I know "motor run capacitor" calculating this or these to MHz required to get a good start is the key.
Like mentioned a breaker trip design is important, I guess this design is efficient on single  phase somehow or they wouldn't design so many motor systems this way.
have a good day everyone

 on: Today at 07:05:34 AM 
Started by Seangie - Last post by HB of CJ
Could one just gut the bad muffler but keep it in place?  If you have a sweet turbo Detroit 2 stroke, just run the gutted muffler then place a nice approved spark arrestor on the end of the tailpipe?  Would that quiet it down enough ... if you kept your foot out of it in town?  I am thinking about the maximum allowable back pressure on turbo 2 stroke Detroits.  Just me.

 on: Today at 06:37:24 AM 
Started by Seangie - Last post by belfert
I priced a muffler for my MCI a few weeks ago and was totally blown away by the price.  It was over $500 for the muffler, straps, and connectors. 
It's just a tin can! 

Heck, MCI wanted over $1000 for the muffler for my Dina!  I spent weeks looking for an alternative and finally found that one company still had a cross reference for the Dina part number.  A number of companies made the muffler over the years because International used it on some trucks, but most have discontinued it.  I couldn't get new straps as I couldn't anyone making 12" oval muffler straps anymore.  (MCI did not have the straps anymore.)  I paid around $400 for the muffler.

I had to replace the muffler because the tail pipe was so rusted it was falling apart at the end.  There was no way I could separate the tail pipe from the muffler due to rust and I might have broken the muffler anyhow.  The muffler was pretty rusty, but not noisy that I could tell.  There was really no space for a different muffler or resonator.  I was able to find a tailpipe that was really, really close to the original for a lot less than MCI wanted for the original.

 on: Today at 04:21:40 AM 
Started by Seangie - Last post by luvrbus
You start buying 5 in fittings and pipe to reroute a muffler if you don't do it yourself it can run into money in a hurry

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