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 1 
 on: December 06, 2016, 09:12:46 PM 
Started by MCI9Guy - Last post by MCI9Guy
I can't believe that I totally spaced on not plugging in the block heater. It was the first cold start of the winter and I knew I was missing something. DUH.

I'll give it another go tomorrow.

 2 
 on: December 06, 2016, 09:04:24 PM 
Started by MCI9Guy - Last post by luvrbus
Use a military style terminal they cost a few bucks more but worth it IMO

 3 
 on: December 06, 2016, 08:54:48 PM 
Started by MCI9Guy - Last post by gumpy
Oh, and plug in your block heater for several hours before trying to start it in the cold.

 4 
 on: December 06, 2016, 08:54:19 PM 
Started by MCI9Guy - Last post by gumpy
I can clarify a bit more. The battery has both automotive and stud terminals. I had it connected to the stud terminal. The metal stud popped right out of the metal holding it in place. It turns out that the stud is just a regular bolt. The metal looked more fractured than melted. However, the positive cable was really hot. A little bit of smoke coming off of the insulation.

Would you recommend that I install a fuse or breaker. And how would I go about determining an appropriate amperage.


No. Don't try to put a fuse in it. The starter needs as much current as that long cable can supply.

The bolt was probably cross threaded, or the heat melted the lead it was screwed into.  Suggest you get a terminal end which connects to the regular battery terminal, but has a threaded stud and wing nut. Then you can just attach the cable to the stud on the new terminal.

 5 
 on: December 06, 2016, 08:44:45 PM 
Started by MCI9Guy - Last post by brmax
I deleted what I thought and like mentioned

The metal is lead even with dual post connectors, maybe not pickin up what your saying.

possibly make a new wire end to fit the existing connection ?post

better luck tomorrow
Floyd

 6 
 on: December 06, 2016, 08:36:14 PM 
Started by MCI9Guy - Last post by MCI9Guy
I can clarify a bit more. The battery has both automotive and stud terminals. I had it connected to the stud terminal. The metal stud popped right out of the metal holding it in place. It turns out that the stud is just a regular bolt. The metal looked more fractured than melted. However, the positive cable was really hot. A little bit of smoke coming off of the insulation.

Would you recommend that I install a fuse or breaker. And how would I go about determining an appropriate amperage.

 7 
 on: December 06, 2016, 08:30:57 PM 
Started by Timkar - Last post by luvrbus
Dang, Cliff. How can you pass on that offer?   Shocked



 It is hard for me to get past New Orleans and the muffatla  Shocked   

 8 
 on: December 06, 2016, 08:20:57 PM 
Started by MCI9Guy - Last post by luvrbus
As Craig stated loose cables and the 600 to 900 amp draw from a starter will do it every time 

 9 
 on: December 06, 2016, 08:19:33 PM 
Started by Timkar - Last post by gumpy
I"LL COOK!!!!
Ha...I can make you Cajun cuisine... with a side of 40w and grease that's forever under my nails?

Dang, Cliff. How can you pass on that offer?   Shocked

 10 
 on: December 06, 2016, 08:16:44 PM 
Started by MCI9Guy - Last post by gumpy
Blew it off?  Was it burned? Melted?

I suspect it wasn't tight on the post and the heating caused by the high current draw of 4 attempts cranking a cold engine caused it to slip off the post.

What are the voltages on the two batteries?

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