Bus Conversions dot Com Bulletin Board
October 19, 2014, 09:25:07 PM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: This BB is intended for the sole purpose of sharing conversion and bus related information among visitors to our web site. These rules must be followed in order for us to continue this free exchange of info. No bad mouthing of any business or individual is permitted. Absolutely no items for sale are to be posted, except in the Spare Tire board. Interested in placing a classified or web ad, please contact our advertising dept. at 714-903-1784 or e-mail to: info@busconversions.com.

   Home   Help Forum Rules Search Calendar Login Register BCM Home Page Contact BCM  
Pages: [1] 2 3 4 5 6 ... 10
 1 
 on: Today at 09:05:55 PM 
Started by Geom - Last post by Geom
You don't have to support the body at all to change bags, just block between axle and steel suspension members and jack the axle.  At least that is the way I did it.
...

Gus, so is that done between the bags by crawling up in there or is this a different spot?
I'm sorry, I'm just not visualizing where you're putting the blocks.

I really don't want to crawl up under there to shove blocks in between the bags, but I also don't want to damage the chassis or engine mount or frame... Hmm

Mung, I like your idea in principle, but I don't see how I'd be able to rig something that would stand up to road travel and not deploy on its own, yet still be usable. I'll give it some thought.

For the purposes of what I was doing I put the blocks under what I believe to be the front of the engine mounting bracket. The book says to do that. But based on what you guys are saying and the way I understood the way these engines are mounted, that sounds like a pretty bad idea! Smiley
It was mostly "just in case" as the bags were ok holding air. I'd just like to know for the next time I'm under there and the bags are not so ok Smiley
It sounds like I do need to make some run-up blocks for these types of adventures, although run-up blocks would not have worked in this situation, since the system would not hold air and the brakes would not have disengaged.

For the front I just put blocks ahead of the radius arm bushings under the radius arm mounts (one on each side). They seem like sturdy spots, but I'm not sure how much weight that spot can actually take. Don't know if the chassis weight can be sitting on them.

 2 
 on: Today at 08:51:27 PM 
Started by Geom - Last post by Scott Bennett
Our coach does this too when Cold.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk. Clumsy fingers may contribute to mistakes.

 3 
 on: Today at 08:35:05 PM 
Started by Geom - Last post by Geom
Thanks all for the replies. It sounds like this is fairly common behavior for a cold DD during startup. My situation is no where near as pronounced as the one in the first video and the engine starts fine, so I don't think it's a fuel issue. It just runs somewhat rough for a few seconds then runs fine from there.

I would love to get a block heater on this, but the way some of the lines are run (transmission cooler I believe), doesn't allow room to install a block heater. I'm not certain exactly but it had something to do with lack of space to maneuver one in.

I do try not to stand on the starter switch when starting. I let it turn over a couple of times and if it doesn't catch I let it ago, and try again a few seconds later.

For cold starting this engine came with an ether start kit. I'm not particularly fond of using it a whole bunch, but man it really makes a difference in cold starting. You can crank it a bunch of times and get no start, but one puff of ether and it's roaring to go.

I am curious what the general consensus is on using ether.

 4 
 on: Today at 08:20:22 PM 
Started by skytrends - Last post by RJ
Lee -

Nice looking Flx.

Is it a "T-drive" powertrain (straight in) or a "V-drive" unit (sitting crossways)?

FWIW & HTH. . .

 Wink

 5 
 on: Today at 08:09:39 PM 
Started by uncle ned - Last post by pabusnut
Ned,

I hope you get pictures!  I would join you, but I'm still fighting terrorism for a few more weeks.  Hope to see you in Late NOV

Steve Toomey
PAbusnut

 6 
 on: Today at 07:59:50 PM 
Started by skytrends - Last post by OneLapper
Very cool looking coach!

 7 
 on: Today at 07:10:00 PM 
Started by skytrends - Last post by yvan
Congrats.

 8 
 on: Today at 07:00:32 PM 
Started by Midwilshire - Last post by luvrbus
John, the only time the o-rings are a problem on the 92 is when someone uses soap to install the o-rings instead of oil then they will cold weather leak and will turn to mush over time 

 9 
 on: Today at 06:49:38 PM 
Started by Midwilshire - Last post by Iceni John
I know the OP is asking about dry-liner 8V71s, but should us folk blessed/cursed with wet-liner 92s follow the same recommendations?   I've heard that 92s should not sit for too long because bad things can happen to their cylinder O-rings  -  is that true?   If I won't drive it for at least 20 minutes, I don't start it at all.

Thanks, John

 10 
 on: Today at 06:41:28 PM 
Started by Mike in GA - Last post by Nick Badame Refrig/ACC
Hi Guy's,

Well, it seems my battery bank is going bad again. After 10 years of changing the flooded led acid

bank every two to two and a half years, I now chose to go with AGM's.

I always had 8- 105 amp led acid deep cycles and they just don't last under constant floating. I just purchased

(4) Lifeline 8D's  and installed them today. Let's start counting on how long they last... Lol

Funny when I test each of the old batteries, they are all over the place in voltages. Some reading 8.5 volts

and only 1 read 12.1v. I wonder why they fail differently as a whole bank being maintained together?

Always purchased them with same date codes, and equally drawl and charge from opposing ends.


Nick-


Pages: [1] 2 3 4 5 6 ... 10
Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.18 | SMF © 2013, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!