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February 14, 2016, 06:58:13 AM *
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 on: Today at 06:36:44 AM 
Started by Scott Bennett - Last post by sledhead
I pl glued ply to the stud and 1/4 " strips + used longer self drilling screws any were I needed them . I used a lot of stay put spray glue ( like 3m 77 ) on all of my paneling when I added to it ( I used solid oak wainscoting   1/4" x 32" h  front to back but not behind any wall cabinets ) spray glued on to the 1/4 " ply )
using the sheets of 1/4 " ply on the walls just made it easier to add any thing to the sides with out making the inside size any smaller . some spots I just used long 3 / 16 rivets in to the 1 / 4 " ply to hold things . to this day I have not had any problems . maybe because I spray foamed the complete inside shell for insulation , added support . on all my upper cabinets there is a pantry or a floor to ceiling panel that is screwed to the upper cabinets for added support . I did this in the design of the cabinets , with all my sliding pocket doors . I tried very hard as to not use up any extra space for inside walls ( all dividing walls are 3/4: ply with veiner glued to each side or 3/4 " foam board with 1/8 " ven. panels glued to them .

 on: Today at 06:26:11 AM 
Started by Tikvah - Last post by belfert
Isn't a regular odometer also going to affected by tire wear too?  It seems to me that ultimately any odometer that depends on how many times the tires go around would be affected by tire wear.  It seems like a GPS would be one of the most accurate ways to measure distance driven.

 on: Today at 05:17:54 AM 
Started by Seangie - Last post by Iceni John
Could one just gut the bad muffler but keep it in place?  If you have a sweet turbo Detroit 2 stroke, just run the gutted muffler then place a nice approved spark arrestor on the end of the tailpipe?  Would that quiet it down enough ... if you kept your foot out of it in town?  I am thinking about the maximum allowable back pressure on turbo 2 stroke Detroits.  Just me.
I don't know if this 6V92 is completely mufferless, or if it has just a resonator, or what, but it sure sounds good:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wz_VJB3y89M   I suspect I have the same Donaldson muffler as Tom has  -  it's not loud, but it definitely makes a throaty sound.   Or you could do what my friend Al did with his Crown's 6-71T:  he just performed a radical mufflerectomy and put in a piece of straight pipe instead!


 on: Today at 04:59:46 AM 
Started by luvrbus - Last post by Dave5Cs
Does that come with TP also, Wow Grin

 on: Today at 04:23:26 AM 
Started by luvrbus - Last post by Boomer
Clifford, why don't you get rid of that dinosaour and convert to the dual Bosch alts?  The complete kits are available from MCI or Prevost.

 on: Today at 04:19:07 AM 
Started by Scott Bennett - Last post by Scott Bennett
Here's what I think I'll do with my 1/4 log interior siding which is 1-3/8" thick:

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 on: Today at 03:38:43 AM 
Started by Scott Bennett - Last post by brmax
That's my understanding with the wood, its the break between bus metal and interior.
In looking around here and there a bit, I noticed attachment to metal through wood was separate and or possibly counter sunk.
Some follow up articles I found interesting mention the attachment of interior wall board or what ever was to the areas in the wood and non contact to metal coach structure.
I had noticed some underlayment types with my mci and their plywood some just clear looking, probably several different for areas they found from experience, I will soon see more.
I thought it all sounded pretty cool and makes perfect sense, and as you mention a wool or roofing paper or many super rubber/ice roofing substrates are great ideas.
Totally interested in any of your findings, man would it be great finding 1-2" strips /rolls.
I think some good non hardening but flex and hi temp stuff would be worth looking into, will keep an eye out.
good idea there

 on: Today at 03:36:52 AM 
Started by Scott Bennett - Last post by Scott Bennett
Nice thoughts BW. Another idea I might use, is wife and I are seriously considering using 1/4 log as our interior siding. At its thickest place, it is 1-3/8" thick. If I countersunk screws as deep as necessary into the center thickest portion of the log, I could then tap a 3/4" plug into the hole on top of the screw head and then putty to blend. This should do the trick too if we are using 1/4 log siding anyway for the look. A thermal foam adhesive strip on the metal ribbing would provide thermal break between log siding and metal rib.

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 on: Today at 03:19:05 AM 
Started by Scott Bennett - Last post by buswarrior
re-studding parallel gives you that much more thickness for insulation? Practical result with spray foam, since it will really have insulation thickness in it, theoretical with other hand installed methods, likely won't achieve any result.

Otherwise, twinning the verticals with wood sounds like a good way to stop the "screw sweat", which if leaving in the metal, also risks water marking/rust marks at each screw, ruining your pleasant decor.

I've wondered about that caulk that is used on studs/joists for sound deadening, as an easy to use separator? It is supposed to stay flexible?

For mounting locations for cabinets, one of the best tricks I've read over the years is to bury a thicker metal plate/skin inside the wall in the general area, well secured, in order to drive your supporting hardware into it once the other layers are installed over it. No careful measuring to hit a thing stud, just drive 'em in to the plate. These might conduct, but would likely be inside, out of sight?

happy coaching!

 on: Today at 03:14:30 AM 
Started by luvrbus - Last post by brmax
Not at this time, but some interesting reads with the links I just glanced at.
I did pickup on the yearly afterward chat diagnostics subscription. Though I kinda like the diagnosing here at the forum. Thanks for the links
Good day

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