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 on: Today at 11:22:24 AM 
Started by DandM - Last post by ol713

     fSI - - Fastening systems international.   800/344-2393
     Byler rivet  - -   800//325-3147
     Both of these advertise in BCM magazine.   Look up their ad.
     When  I was working in aircraft, we used to install rivets "wet".
     That is you dip the rivet in a sealant then install.  No worries
     about leaks.   We also used a grip gauge to measure the
     hole to find correct length of rivet.
                                           Good luck,    Merle. Tongue

 on: Today at 10:35:53 AM 
Started by Scott & Heather - Last post by Cary and Don
Our concern is getting the bus home. I could always just take the toad. But if we had to have somebody come and drive the bus, that would be a really expensive mess. If it was in a park the charges would add up quickly and what if they didn't have openings for the time we left it there? What if we were at some over night spot along the route, basically on the road. What if we were out in the middle of nowhere? We do that a lot also. Then there is trying to find somebody to drive it or just leave it there until when we do.

We have found a solution of the back seat driving husband. I go deaf. Like he does when he's driving. LOL


 on: Today at 10:17:02 AM 
Started by DandM - Last post by luvrbus
You can buy caps for the blind rivets and not use a shaver if you choose ,I use a lot of the Cherry Max blind rivets with the rubber installation in damp areas then cap them they are made for aircraft

 on: Today at 10:02:19 AM 
Started by DandM - Last post by Jeff Willard
Get the tools, do some practicing and then use the original solid rivets. It's not that hard to do. You can use a Zip gun (it's better to have a real rivet gun though) buy the setting tool set from Aircraft Tool Supply and any ol' chunk of steel as a bucking bar and the rivets are available from a number of places. I like Hanson Rivet.
Clean both surfaces well and using a sealant isn't a bad plan either.
Get the wife to help. Bucking rivets is a "Bonding" experience. Smiley

 on: Today at 09:51:49 AM 
Started by DandM - Last post by dvrasor
They are called shavehead rivets. Byler has them and
shaving tool the last time I checked

   Dave Rasor

 on: Today at 09:46:58 AM 
Started by Scott & Heather - Last post by luvrbus
JC if you make to Quartzsite bring a gal of Canadian honey if not to much trouble I'll pay you for it and even feed you, that is some good stuff

 on: Today at 09:44:02 AM 
Started by DandM - Last post by Oonrahnjay
      Some "pop" rivets will seal the center hole when they are installed (after the center armature if pulled tight and broken off) -- some will NOT.  Be sure you're getting sealed rivets. 
      Here are a couple of suppliers that I've used.  They seem to have a good selection and prices seem about right but I haven't bought enough to know if they're genuinely a good source.  Both seem to answer questions and offer advice.


 on: Today at 09:37:16 AM 
Started by Scott & Heather - Last post by TomC
Simple-get rid of the twin gasoline powered Honda's (yes they're cheap to buy [compared to Diesel]) and install a Diesel. Powertech makes a nice compact 8kw with reverse cooling (pulling air through radiator and discharging it down). I had a truck driver friend that had one in his truck and when he sold the truck, the 8kw had over 23,000hrs on it. You would need 3 replacement Honda for that amount of hours. Good Luck, TomC

 on: Today at 09:31:49 AM 
Started by Scott & Heather - Last post by TomC
I still have the stock, automatic leveling valves. I also have my own designed manual leveling system using the 3 points. I like not having to worry about leveling while driving, but able to level the bus in less than a minute. Also, have had a leveling valve go out (actually the connecting rod came loose) while driving. Simply threw the switch to manual, leveled it out and continued driving. Best of both worlds. Good Luck, TomC

 on: Today at 09:29:40 AM 
Started by DandM - Last post by DandM
Hi everyone…
Mike here again with another question – Scenicrusier engine cradle
Been doing some work in Scenic 278 this year and wanted to take the oil pan off to checkout some dents I found in it while doing some other work underneath the rear of my bus. Found out that I couldn’t remove the oil pan as it was trapped by the engine cradle. And then looking further, I found several places where the cradle had been modified over the years. I didn’t like the oil pan being trapped and felt that the cradle mods were not done in a safe/satisfactory manner. So, I want to remove the engine/trans assembly and build a new, safer, stronger cradle. So, finally a question…
Scenicrusier engine cradle – does anyone have pictures of a cradle, especially showing the bulkhead connections? I do have a old shop manual, but the pics it has are somewhat blurred after numerous photocopier copies. And they don’t show the bulkhead end of a cradle. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.

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