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November 23, 2014, 02:15:50 PM *
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 on: Today at 02:09:23 PM 
Started by zubzub - Last post by gumpy
Ok. So it seems you are trying to put in an anti-freeze system on your heater.

I think using the thermostat you have would work, but it would come on at whatever the minimum is. That's probably 55F or so, which
means most likely, your heater is going to be running quite a lot when you're not there.

I did a similar thing with my aquahot. I used a thermocouple activated industrial heat tape controller. My father-in-law had
one from a jobsite he had worked on in the 70's. It's heavy duty, but it was free. I attached the thermocouple to the distribution manifold
copper pipe. I then wired it to a 28v relay which controls the electric element in my aquahot, and also wired it to activate
the heating circuit which turns on the circulation pump and the fan in the water bay. The thermostat turns on at about 35F. I found last
week that my electic element can't keep up when temps drop to about 0, but there's no reason I couldn't have it activate the diesel burner

I realize you are trying to use stuff you already have, but maybe you can find an affordable heat tape controller somewhere.

Another idea is to find a normally open snap-disc thermostat switch that closes at around 35 and opens around 40 and attach that to your
pipes and connect to a relay coil that controls the heater.

 on: Today at 12:33:26 PM 
Started by Seangie - Last post by Tony LEE
Have you tried doing a succession of hard stops (on a deserted road) from say 50mph to 25mph. Supposed to deglaze the friction surfaces.

 on: Today at 12:13:13 PM 
Started by MC8Mike - Last post by MC8Mike
I'm in need of a set of 12v solenoids and was wondering if any of the board members have a set for sale or know where I can get a set. I have 24 volt solenoids to trade if anyone is interested in trading. Thanks and have a great day, Mike.

 on: Today at 10:34:03 AM 
Started by zubzub - Last post by zubzub
I want to turn the proheat on when I am not around.  Proheat sells a programable timer for this but it is $$ and I was told I could use a programmable thermostat.  I could order something online just trying to use what I have at hand.

 on: Today at 10:30:44 AM 
Started by sparkplug188 - Last post by pennuja
I like Vulkem it will handle any expanding and shifting it is very tough, it dries grayish not sure about painting it if needed. I think it is much better than silicon caulk or anything like that.


 on: Today at 08:57:56 AM 
Started by Midwilshire - Last post by TomC
I use two Shurflo Whisper Quiet standard switch (most reliable) water pumps that are mounted at floor level with the water tank. Both or either can be used at the same time. They only put out about 30psi, but it's enough. If you do mount the pump below water level, put in a valve on the intake side so you can turn off the water to the pump incase of leak, but still be able to use the water system. I had one of my pumps leak and simply turned off the valve and continued on the trip-replacing both pumps when we got back home. Good Luck, TomC

 on: Today at 08:49:16 AM 
Started by wdtjawshwdt - Last post by TomC
Always try to buy a west coast bus since we don't use much in the way of salt. My '77 AMGeneral was used in Portland, Or. It has a bit of surface rust, but nothing serious. Except for replacing the air bags, adding Sheppard steering and changing to oil bearings, I've done nothing to the chassis-brakes, shocks, bushings, etc still the same.

Mike has good west coast buses for sale. Pay a bit more for a good one and have him take the seats out. If I were buying another bus, my choice would be the MCI 102C3.  Good Luck, TomC

 on: Today at 08:41:49 AM 
Started by Seangie - Last post by TomC
I know with big rig trucks, a new 16.5 x 7 brake drum is only $85.00. The complete lining and spring kit is around $85.00 also. With those kind of prices, I would replace both sides of the axle with new drums and linings. Do not use metallic or semi-metallic linings as they need to be heated up to work-mainly for in city use. Just use the standard gray block or one that works well when cold. Don't skrimp on your brakes-especially the drive axle that do the biggest part of braking. Good Luck, TomC

 on: Today at 08:34:52 AM 
Started by brianzero - Last post by TomC
Even on the gigantic off road mining trucks, dry paper type air cleaners are used. I would suggest changing yours to dry paper type. The filtering on paper is better than oil. You can buy an entire air cleaner assembly for just a few hundred. Good Luck, TomC

 on: Today at 07:05:18 AM 
Started by zubzub - Last post by gumpy
Not quite sure I fully understand what you are trying to do.

Most diesel burner units have a control board and temp sensors that turn them on and off to keep the coolant within a specific range around 180F. Typically,
all you have to do is turn on a switch and the unit will heat up and shut itself off when the sensor says it's hot. Then, you use a thermostat to control the
circulation pump and heat exchanger fans inside.

I don't understand what the timer would be used for.

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