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 on: Today at 06:03:46 PM 
Started by Tikvah - Last post by eagle19952
TEMco seems to endorse this one...


 on: Today at 06:01:33 PM 
Started by Lin - Last post by Iceni John
It's slightly ironic that our buses (OK, except for the few decadent bourgeois European imports here!) are virtually 100% American content, and they have better engineering quality than most "American-made" cars!   Why is it that GM could make such magnificent buses and such crappy cars, even at the same time?   The fastidious attention to detail and overall integrity of design of my bus is diametrically opposite to the laughably-low quality that Detroit has foisted on the car-buying public here for many decades.   Evidently this country can, and has done so in the past, produce vehicles of world-beating standard, but most buyers now won't pay for true quality  -  they would rather get cheap junk as long as it has all the bells and whistles and electronic baubles that the advertisers have brain-washed them into thinking are necessary.  Our buses are a vestige of a time that will never return, when true quality was appreciated and understood.


 on: Today at 06:00:50 PM 
Started by Tikvah - Last post by Cary and Don
We have been buying batteries from a recycler.  This guy gets take out batteries from fork lifts. These companies change all the batteries even if only one is weak.  Usually they are less than six months old, have never been outside and look like new.  We have two years on a set of twelve now and paid $40 each for them.  There is probably somebody like this in most areas.

Don and Cary

 on: Today at 05:30:17 PM 
Started by Tikvah - Last post by Iceni John
I got my hands on a roll of 4/0 copper wire (welding cable).  How do I connect the ends?  Do I need to buy a hydraulic crimper?  Should I crimp AND solider?  Heat shrink or tape?

Ideally all lugs should be crimped on with a good circumferential crimper that evenly compresses the lug around the cable strands so tightly that it effectively cold-welds the cable and lugs into one indivisible solid mass of copper.   The phrase for this is "gas-tight"  -  if your connection is this solid, you wouldn't even be able to wick any solder into the joint at all.   The concern with soldering is that if the lug overheats, the solder could melt out and create a fire hazard (or worse).   The least expensive crimper I've found that will make good connections like this is the FTZ 94284, available from K.L.Jack for only $170  -  it makes perfect four-sided crimps on all thicknesses and sizes of lugs, and when I cut one joint apart to check it the strands and lug had fused into one solid mass of copper.   To cut 4/0 cable without splaying out the strands (which makes it impossible to fit into a tight lug) you need a BIG cutter like a TEMco TH0003  -  they're only $39 from eBay, and plenty good enough for occasional use like what we're doing.

The small Chinese hydraulic lug crimpers, such as the Harbor Fright one, are good for up to about 4AWG, but even though their dies are marked 0AWG there's no way they can crimp that large without making rabbit ears on the lug.   However, the FTZ isn't so good on the smaller sizes, so having one of each crimper works well.   They'll make a good hexagonal crimp, again gas-tight, but only if you can work out which darn size of dies to use!

Making cables is fun, especially when you can make them exactly the right length and lug orientation, two things that ready-made cables usually won't be.   I've found the best price for tinned 4/0 lugs is from Northern Arizona Wind & Sun, and 4/0 cable is available for $4 or less from eBay sellers, so it's not too expensive to make your own cables.   And when you're done, use some good heatshrink, then you'll have cables as good as, or better than, most ready-made cables  -  I've seen some "professionally-made" cables that I wouldn't trust at all !


 on: Today at 03:54:18 PM 
Started by Darkspeed - Last post by Wild Bill
I bought a Separett because I don't like dumping and don't like the thought emptying a pee can either, (natures head) ,  Separett pee just plumbed into grey water.
Hope it works good, toilet going to the island this summer, I have come to the realization Without the MC5   Cry

 on: Today at 03:03:31 PM 
Started by Tikvah - Last post by georgemci102a2
I like the converter charger,and separate inverter.Wouldn't have it any other way.

 on: Today at 02:43:16 PM 
Started by Tikvah - Last post by bevans6
The major downside of a separate charger/converter and inverter is you can, if you're not careful, get into a loop where you are running the charger off the inverter and charging the batteries that you are using to charge the batteries.  Ways around that, of course.  Smiley  Converters definitely have their place, they are usually biased towards being a stable DC power source for an RV rather than being an ultimate charger, but some have both modes and are programmable.


 on: Today at 02:42:26 PM 
Started by Tikvah - Last post by Lee Bradley
I got my hands on a roll of 4/0 copper wire (welding cable).  How do I connect the ends?  Do I need to buy a hydraulic crimper?  Should I crimp AND solider?  Heat shrink or tape?


This is what I used for terminals on my 4/0 welding cable. My batteries have a stud that pulls the flat surface down on a flat lead circle about one inch in diameter. I used a piece of copper tubing over the end of the cable to distribute the load from the screw. 

 on: Today at 02:36:48 PM 
Started by Fredward - Last post by bevans6
Glad it's working out for you.  Brian

 on: Today at 02:30:37 PM 
Started by Tikvah - Last post by luvrbus
Some states do add a disposal fee (tax) on top of the core charge we don't have it here and they take any battery,the retailer here goes from 5 and no more than 15 bucks for a battery core 

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