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 11 
 on: October 29, 2014, 11:30:37 PM 
Started by mung - Last post by Lin
If you are going to build an inherently dangerous system, then as suggested, you should add as many protections as you can.  However, as Mrs Murphy once said, "What can go wrong will go wrong."  Her husband did not agree.  Hence, his famous epitaph.

 12 
 on: October 29, 2014, 09:24:04 PM 
Started by TrentAiken - Last post by luvrbus
Wonder what the actual temp was at 250, the 8v71 is well done especially on a GM the upper head will usually go around 220 to 225 degrees I guess he will tell us in time  Undecided 

 13 
 on: October 29, 2014, 08:46:15 PM 
Started by mung - Last post by eagle19952
If you're going to do that, at the very least, put shutoff switches on each inlet so you can turn off the unused ones!


ADDITIONALLY YOU can put locks on the switches and devices.... Angry

 14 
 on: October 29, 2014, 08:03:15 PM 
Started by TrentAiken - Last post by MightyThor
Used to drive Demo derby cars.  We run them till they get hot then run them some more till they quit.  I have had engines so hot they glowed.  But after cooling off we have had many engines that fired back up and ran ok.  Here is what I can tell you.  A mostly Cast Iron engine can survive some horrible overheating.  When things get hot they get bigger and that makes some things really tight like piston to cylinder clearance, bearing to crank or Rod, etc.  If things are shut down before the parts touch, you may be good to go. 

When things get hot it also screws up seals, and other parts that should not be that hot so you can get leaks etc.  But if you don't have leaks you may also be ok. 

When things get hot the fluids, in particular the oil, break down and do not perform to spec.  This can then cause other failures.  Anytime you have had an engine hot change the oil. 

I don't mean to suggest that a hot engine can't suffer damage, not uncommon for things to warp as they cool off, even more so if you try to hasten the cooling by pouring things into a hot engine to "cool it off"  Also, the different rate of expansion and contraction of Steel vs Aluminum also often results in warped or cracked parts. 

250 is hot, but Ive done worse and driven away an hour later.

 15 
 on: October 29, 2014, 07:39:58 PM 
Started by Scott Bennett - Last post by solodon
The 1989 service manual for MCI MC9 calls for 10W40 for the power steering system.
Don

 16 
 on: October 29, 2014, 07:30:25 PM 
Started by Scott Bennett - Last post by Dave5Cs
I use 40 weight!.... Roll Eyes

 17 
 on: October 29, 2014, 07:08:04 PM 
Started by TomNPat - Last post by oltrunt
Chessie 4905, with all due respect to your being a hero member and all, perhaps it would have been more helpful to suggest a rather large forum known as Skoolie.net in place of or at least along with the scrap yard.  If I have miss understood your intent, I apologize.

 18 
 on: October 29, 2014, 07:03:45 PM 
Started by Nel - Last post by solodon
The service manual for a 1989 MCI MC9 states 10W40 for the power steering fluid.
Don

 19 
 on: October 29, 2014, 06:14:57 PM 
Started by lou432 - Last post by lou432
Scott, Well maybe !!!!??? If the Bus 101 goes as I hope and a Bus Guru or 2 looks her over but tells me I need to win the lottery to get her right well I`ll segway and add-lib  into  how to let our buses go to the glue factory and still lead productive lives LOL!! With possible medications?
 Wonder if there`ll be any Doctors in the house??
 

 20 
 on: October 29, 2014, 06:11:32 PM 
Started by mung - Last post by gumpy
I want one for each side, and/or maybe also a third up front, to reduce the need to drag cables too far or under the bus  -  yes, I know that all inlets are live when one is plugged in, but an LED idiot light next to each inlet will remind me to not touch or lick it when connected.   I'd thought about 50A inlets, but my bus is definitely going to be a low-power-usage conversion, so I can't think why I would need all that power  -  heck, most of the time 15A will suffice for my meager needs!   (With a roof-full of solar panels I don't plan on often needing shore power.)

Take another sip of wine...................................... mmmmmmmm.......................

<Rant on>

Well, I'll just say this and leave it be  ....

I have some serious problems with your plan here. You are conceding that you will have multiple inlets around your bus which will have 125V hot prongs in them. You say it's ok because you know they're hot, but you don't account for the wayward child or curious busnut who just happens by while you are not home and wants to take a better look at your electrical inlet setup. You're brewing a recipe for disaster of both life (someone else's) and property (your's when you get sued). It's dangerous, and since you acknowledge that you know about it, it's irresponsible.

<Rant off>

If you're going to do that, at the very least, put shutoff switches on each inlet so you can turn off the unused ones!

Now addressing your comment regarding pulling cords...

I set up two long cords, about 50 ft each. One is a 30 amp cord (10 ga wire), and one is a 50 amp cord (6 ga wire). They each have a male 50A twist lock on one end and a female 50A twist lock on the other end. Then, I have two short cords, one about a foot long, and the other about 12 ft long. One has a 50A male plug on one end, and a 50A Female Twist Lock on the other end. The other has a 30A male and 50A female Twist Lock. I can connect both long cords together to reach up to about 100 feet away (limited to 30A on that setup due to wire size and distance). Normally, though, all I need is the short pigtail connected into one of the long cords to power the bus. Going under the bus is not a big deal. I just slip one end under. Normally, though, I just snake the cord around the front wheels and along the side and sling the cord under the bus along the side to keep it out of the way (snowblower, etc). This has worked very well for me. I've needed the extra length of both shore cords only a couple of times. Sometimes I luck out and the power pole is withing 10 feet of the inlet and I can just use the short cord.

I've never really had a need to have a power inlet on both sides of the bus.

I also have a buddy plug receptacle on the front corner of the bus, and outlets in each of the bays.



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