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 on: Today at 09:18:12 AM 
Started by bigred - Last post by Oonrahnjay
  Wus it you Scott?Huh?

     I-40, Nashville to Asheville -- I-26, Asheville to Myrtle Beach; I'm gonna guess "entertainer" (as a WAIG).

 on: Today at 09:15:42 AM 
Started by Geoff - Last post by Oonrahnjay
One Stop Custom Shop
Colorado Springs CO

sorry no link   

    Looks like it's www.onestopcustomshop.com/ -- the website has photos, etc.  Looks like good work.

 on: Today at 09:12:10 AM 
Started by Dreadnought - Last post by Dreadnought
Thanks everyone! I drove it today and it sorted itself out!

When I first powered up, it was keeling over again on that same side and for the first few moments of driving across town it did, but then it evened its way out.

Then I got a quote for interior work on my RV at a specialist and I almost keeled over!

 on: Today at 09:10:09 AM 
Started by Dreadnought - Last post by Geoff
The present 3/4" feed from the engine for the heaters goes to a coolant booster pump, then to some 3/4" hard pipes that go to the front and all the way back to the radiator's lower return pipe into the water pump inlet.   My idea is to have valves to select coolant flow to either the heater loop or to the additional radiator, but not to both at the same time.   I'm hoping the present 1"-to-3/4" coolant supply has enough flow force to avoid needing a booster pump for the additional radiator, especially if I use a larger 1.25" return back to the water pump;  the pump is sucking the return as much as pushing its outflow.   I definitely don't want to introduce any cavitation with this extra circuit.

Has anyone here done anything similar to this?   I want just a small amount of extra cooling for those rare occasions when the temperature gauge keeps creeping up, but I really don't want to use misters.


I added an extra radiator using the 1" heater hose that used to supply the passenger heating system.  The coolant pump moves the coolant through a heater core that measures 1' by 3' and uses 3 electric 12v fans with a 190 degree switch. The RTS has a screen in the roof so that is where the extra radiator is mounted.  With this system I was able to quit running the water sprayers on the main radiator.  350HP 6V92TA.


 on: Today at 08:52:32 AM 
Started by Swadian - Last post by AdamWalkup
I have a 99 DL3 with 12.7, and gear was changed to 3.73.  It works great, no problems starting, changes to 6th gear at about 65 mph.  It gets great mileage on the highway, and is our first coach out for long out of state trips, often running Biloxi trips from our bus shop in south Florida on a weekly basis.

Interestingly the actual in the field fuel mileage is not THAT much better, I see larger variances between different buses.  On a standard coach with a 4.30 ratio, we average about 6.5 mpg on the highway, where this bus will get 6.8-7.5 regularly.  What I do notice is that the weight will change the mileage more on this bus, when running light it gets MUCH better mileage, but on a trip loaded with people and LOTS of luggage, the mileage won't be much better.

The bus seems overall very happy with this set up, and I may change some more of them.  It brings the shift point to a higher speed, but the engine tranny seem happy, they just think they are running slower road speed then they really are.  When mountain climbing it just down shifts earlier, but is very happy climbing in 5th, or even 4th.

 on: Today at 08:22:42 AM 
Started by Swadian - Last post by luvrbus
Allison won't approve 3:90 for a B500 he will need a outlaw to reprogram it because Allison will lock out 6th gear with that ratio for lubrication purposes if he goes there

 on: Today at 08:16:52 AM 
Started by bevans6 - Last post by bevans6
Tom, I already de-tuned it down to N75's.  From what I have read, that puts me at the top of the window for torque on the 647 at peak torque, but I take your advice to back off when shifting...  I rarely have to use full throttle anyway.  I am below the torque rating at 2200 rpm, which is the full throttle shift setting (if I understand what the tech who set it up told me).  We discussed rpm range and torque output quite a bit when I was ordering the transmission.  This isn't a take-out, it was built to my application, which I think will be a useful thing.


 on: Today at 07:30:43 AM 
Started by Dreadnought - Last post by lvmci
My observations about coastal bus lines is the tremendous suction on the two radiator systems on MCIs, is that's where to look for corrosion, rust when looking for problems when searching for a new bus. So I dont think protection from outside salt air is posible on those models. lvmc...

 on: Today at 07:25:46 AM 
Started by Dreadnought - Last post by lvmci
I think we're way off Dreadnaughts thread. All the DD gurus have always written about pushing a 2 stroke and the heat that creates. My engine can idle for some time and not heatup, so I  dont think the more complex issues are my heat problem with mountain driving. Every direction from LV is mountains to go over and those mountains that dont amount to a hill of beans in the winter, but in summer I keep my eyes glued to the temperature gauage as the bus climbs and so does the gauge. Im going to recore or rod out, the two big size radiators on my 8V92T 102C3. Ive added sprayers and listend to Clifford, Gary and the rest of the knowledgeable bunch on driving technique, all their suggestions have led to my successful driving over the mountains. But I  want to increase the horespower, as it is at the minimum horsepower rating right now. Observing the different solutions is not only interesting, but will lead to more fun while driving my big bus. You guys are great and once again, thanks for your kindness in advising all of us new to diesel, tom, lvmci...

 on: Today at 07:11:33 AM 
Started by Dreadnought - Last post by lostagain
The freer the exhaust flow, the more heat goes out the pipe. The less exhaust restriction, the better. Since I replaced my muffler with a resonator, I think I run cooler. Wrapping also helps getting the exhaust out faster, because the hotter it is, the more it expands, therefore the faster it goes out.

Outside air, drawn through the rads, is cooler than what is inside the engine compartment, even on a hot day.

Regarding the electrical components getting corroded, they already are getting most air on a rainy day, or worst in the winter, so a little more by increasing the flow wouldn't make a big difference. Replacing rusty switches and the like is a normal maintenance thing anyway.


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