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 11 
 on: March 28, 2015, 04:28:00 PM 
Started by Raymond smith - Last post by Greg Smith
Hey Bro
C'mon by some time. I'll show you how to build a bus that doesn't attract mice.

BWAAAHAHAHAHA

Your favorite bro

 12 
 on: March 28, 2015, 02:39:56 PM 
Started by TheHollands! - Last post by Dave5Cs
Thats it also if not the pedal like Clifford was saying take a pair of vice grips and figure out which is the supply line to the rear brakes from that valve. Put the vice grips on that hose after you wrap a small towel around the line and squeeze it just enough to see if the air leak stops. Do both sides. If it doesn't stop replace the R-8 valve. Napa has them or can get them as well as Luke B. If it does stop the leak then it is one of your emergency diaphrams has a leak iin the rubber and will need to be replaces. truck supply parts place. This is if you have 3 hoses coming out of your rear brake cans which would mean you still have DD3's.

Dave5Cs

 13 
 on: March 28, 2015, 02:30:49 PM 
Started by TheHollands! - Last post by luvrbus
That is a Bendix R-8 valve shouldn't be hard to find if that is your problem,check the pedal and make sure it is releasing all the way sometimes a small stone can wedge the pedal and the R-8 will not seat   

 14 
 on: March 28, 2015, 01:24:05 PM 
Started by TheHollands! - Last post by TheHollands!
So I'm not sure what you call this but is seems like it it what Dave described. The rubber disk has air leaking out of it. I attached photo's of it. What do I actually replace and where can I get it. Thanks for all your expertise helping me in my amateur hour. Craig

 15 
 on: March 28, 2015, 12:44:10 PM 
Started by Gary LaBombard - Last post by luvrbus
I am not criticizing you Gary I helped you find the parts but man you do a lot of extra work I wouldn't do, if it gives you satisfaction that's all that is important JMO   

 16 
 on: March 28, 2015, 11:06:42 AM 
Started by luvrbus - Last post by Dave5Cs
Clifford here is a nice unimog Sonya might like and you could always convert it into another Camper, LOL

No thanks necessary Dave Grin


http://www.ebay.com/itm/1998-STEWART-AND-STEVENSON-M1079-4x4-LMTV-FMTV-TRUCK-EMP-PROOF-UNIMOG-m998-m1078-/231516699305?forcerrptr=true&hash=item35e7787aa9&item=231516699305

 17 
 on: March 28, 2015, 11:00:21 AM 
Started by siberyd - Last post by siberyd
Greetings, a busnut on the east coast is looking at a west coast bus. Anyone interested in checking it out for him. I can do a basic check out, but from a driver as opposed to a mechanically point of view.

 18 
 on: March 28, 2015, 10:36:52 AM 
Started by Gary LaBombard - Last post by Gary LaBombard
Hello Everyone,
Thanks for the comments, I am quite thrilled to have achieved this much so far. Cliff, I built the test stand to also move the engine out and in the bus to work on as the engine compt.  needed upgrading etc.  I also had to remove and reinstall a new clutch plate and other stuff.  The blower was atrocious, it had heavy black grease on the blades the entire length and it was difficult to remove as well as finding out that the blower bearings were installed wrong.  So (While I was at it) I installed as many new bolts as possible.  The bolts on the flywheel that take the copper sealing washer, (was a mixture of bolts and lengths, one copper washer missing was sealed with RTV??  This convinced me that taking the time on the engine to find things and repair or replace them was well worth it.  And the engine is pretty right now in color too.  I always make more work of a project it seems.

Tomc, thanks for the reassurance that the whiney noise we all heard in the video was from the opening of the blower, that is what I thought but again, what in heck do I know.  I am learning though.

I will be 70 years old in a matter of weeks, I just gotta get done and enjoy this thing before my replacement gets to do it!! kidding now
Gary

 19 
 on: March 28, 2015, 10:21:27 AM 
Started by TheHollands! - Last post by Dave5Cs
If you have a shop compressor with you hook it up to the NP fitting in the engine compartment. Should be one under the drain daily valve on the bulk head. The pressure protection valve on the MCI in set at 65 PSI and the fast idle would kick in higher mine is at 85PSI . So if you can't reach that PSI then it will not work like Brian said anyway until you attain that range. Using the shop air will allow you to put it as far away from the coach as possible so you don't hear anything but air leaks or as much as possible. Make sure you closed all the drains on any air tanks also( don't ask me how I know that). There is a valve in the rear wheel well up on the bulkhead relay valve ( generally with 4 hoses coming out of it and looks like a space ship with a rubber disk on the bottom). If it is leaking it will tell you , you may have a leak in your DD3 diaphragms in the rear. HTH

Dave5Cs

 20 
 on: March 28, 2015, 09:53:05 AM 
Started by TheHollands! - Last post by Jon
I have zero knowledge specific to an MCI, but assuming your brake system is building air it should hit somewhere around 75 PSI before the protection valve allows air to the accessory system. In other words you will not hear any leaks or escaping air until both the primary and secondary brake systems are charged. If they will not pressurize you have a problem with the protection valve making your needs somewhat greater.

If the systems build air at least you can have someone outside the coach try to hear where it is escaping. Does your coach sit level and at the driving height? If that is the case it is likely your suspension air bags are OK.

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