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 11 
 on: August 02, 2015, 07:48:50 PM 
Started by belfert - Last post by belfert
The reason to use threaded pipe instead of exhaust pipe is because Powertech already has a threaded exhaust outlet on the bottom of the generator.  I have to install something threaded no matter what to get started.

 12 
 on: August 02, 2015, 07:40:50 PM 
Started by belfert - Last post by oltrunt
Belfert, either will work just fine but both are overkill.  Plain old mild steel pipe (for exhaust pipe) is OK with aluminized or galvanized being better.  As to the length, as long as you don't have a bunch of twists and kinks all will be well.  On a side note, when I was studying noise suppression in small motors I learned that the exhaust system as a whole should have a diameter not larger than the port at the engine.  For quiet operation these little engines need some back pressure to self cancel their racket.  Fun stuff to read though a bit heavy on the math Cheesy.  JHack

 13 
 on: August 02, 2015, 07:26:34 PM 
Started by belfert - Last post by oltrunt
Digesterman.  Yup it's gas----but--  I don't run it while the bus is moving or when I am not in attendance.  Also, the genny has a remote gas tank and is fed through a metal pipe via an electric fuel pump.  The pump is operated through a relay and allowed to run only if the cooling fan is operating, the genny engine is running, and the temp in the drawer is not in excess of 165 degrees F.  I placed redundant 190 degree F thermostatic switches in (on) the valley at the bottom of the cylinder which ground the magnito in the event the engine block reaches that temp.  I also extended the float bowl overflow tube to extend outside of the drawer and box so if the float sticks the extra fuel does not build up in the drawer/box.  Having heard some horror stories about the float sticking on this model genny, I did some experimentation with trying to get the float to stick.  I found that the float drop as delivered from the mfg allowed the float to drop past center when the float bowl was empty if the genny was tilted in any direction over about 50 degrees ( I determined this by removing the carb and making trials using mineral spirits) so it is a concern.  I put  a stop in the float bowl to keep the float from dropping too far and tested again with satisfactory results.  I just acquired a thermostatically controlled petroleum fire extinguisher and plan to add it to the genny drawer.

Thanks for asking the question.  It gives me a chance to hear any suggestions anyone might have as to what else I might do to make this thing as safe as possible.  I am happy with the performance of the genny so far and in particular it's 53dB noise level.
Jack



This is meant for a boat bilge.  I'll bet it makes a mess!

 14 
 on: August 02, 2015, 07:19:17 PM 
Started by belfert - Last post by belfert
Does regular black pipe or galvanized pipe work for exhaust pipe?

 15 
 on: August 02, 2015, 07:18:22 PM 
Started by belfert - Last post by belfert
Brian, I'll try not to blather too much.  I'll start with a sketch of my genny lay out and then a few pictures to further confuse the issue.  Although the pics show the genny muffler still directly attached to the genny, I later moved it to a remote location to better control heat build up in the drawer.  I'm sure you can find a more convenient location for the union than I did since your genny is in one of the bays.  Hope this helps.  Jack

Now I understand.  Your exhaust goes out to the opposite side of the bus so a union works.  Before it fell off my exhaust went out the same side of the bus the generator is mounted on.  An union really won't work unless I route the exhaust a totally different direction.  I don't to go out the other side of the bus as that is the side where everyone congregates when we are camping.  I'm not sure if the engine on the generator would like it if I ran 20 feet of exhaust to the rear of the bus.

One thought I am having right now is to add a thread elbow to the existing nipple and then just run the exhaust out the side that way.  I would put a roller of some sort for the exhaust pipe to roll out with the generator.

 16 
 on: August 02, 2015, 06:36:51 PM 
Started by daddyoften - Last post by Darkspeed
Eric, when I gutted my 4106 and removed the floors.... and removed the aluminum stress members between each bulkhead... so it was literally a shell, the bus was surprisingly rigid.

When i cut 8" of height out of the bulkheads the bus went a little wet noodle.

I would think a mid entry door could be safely done but if I was doing it the door frame would be beefy.

Also keep in mind that the side shell has a curve to it so one the outside face of the door frame will also need to be curved.

I would build my door frame out of A500 2" x 4" x .25 structural tube and inset it where it was inside the curve then cut a curved strip of .25 to fill the gap between the frame and the skin, welding the straight side to the strip to the face of the door frame and riveting the curved side to the skin with some structural L and a good isolation layer because you would be putting aluminum skin on steel frame. - but thats just an idea

Cool project, cant wait to see it!

Is your bus modified to tow a toad? The 41XX buses have to be.

 17 
 on: August 02, 2015, 06:24:47 PM 
Started by HB of CJ - Last post by luvrbus
I don't know not 1 single bus owner that doesn't do a pre check before traveling not a 1 and they all say the same thing "Aw Hell I'll fix it when I get there" lol I have heard that 1000's of time

 18 
 on: August 02, 2015, 06:14:42 PM 
Started by saddleup - Last post by luvrbus
We have stayed at duck creek.  Nice park, pool and free coffee.  Good location if you have a car and are visiting.  Bad location if you need access to the strip.  No transportation provided.

-Sean
   Not a problem for that cowboy he tows 1 vehicle and drives another he is prepared

 19 
 on: August 02, 2015, 06:12:00 PM 
Started by daddyoften - Last post by luvrbus
There are a couple of mid door entry GM's in the Western GMC club they don't seem to have any problems

 20 
 on: August 02, 2015, 06:08:46 PM 
Started by daddyoften - Last post by daddyoften
Thank you Darkspeed,
I have done quite a bit of reading and research and agree that this is not something to be messed with.  I have not actually found any "real" information on doing this particular thing but have found a lot of advise and precautions.  Funny thing is I have Bus conversion magazine's back from the original first one's for about 8 years and they were doing roof raises on these 41's like it was nothing  Shocked  Now we know better.  Roll Eyes
I feel the location I have found is better then other places in the bus for this.  The bus needs a new floor so I will have the "structure" open when I do this.  This also is a place that there were factory windows, meaning there was a hole in the side of the bus there already so I figure this will help in the structural side of things.  I'm not a structural engineer but I have a fabricator and do understand the workings of gussets and distribution of loads and stress.  With that said I very much welcome ANY and ALL experience good and bad regarding cutting a door in the middle of such a bus.  If it weren't for the floor plan that we almost "need" to do I wouldn't be messing with it but with the new door location it will help us do the very unique multi room setup we need for such a large family all in one bus.  I don't want to go to a longer bus as I already have such a wonderful foundation with this one and don't want the limitations that come with such a long bus in state parks, especially with the Sprinter toad following behind  Grin
Thank you!
Eric

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