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 on: Today at 09:48:59 AM 
Started by Scott Bennett - Last post by TomC
Many advantages to skoolies. They are built on a modified truck chassis. Service is much easier and cheaper then on a rear engine bus. Thomas being owned by Daimler Trucks North America, basically uses Freightliner front and chassis. Blue Bird has their own chassis, so servicing and parts might be more expensive. Navistar also makes skoolies. Good Luck, TomC

 on: Today at 09:19:47 AM 
Started by Scott Bennett - Last post by CrabbyMilton
You also have to remember that that  some skoolies are built for other applications other than hauling little monsters to and from school. So those may be better taken care of. The cover story in the current magazine fits that bill. The BLUE BIRD VISION has a sharp look to it. Unlike the THOMAS C2 and IC version, BLUEBIRD builds it chassis exclusively for bus use in the type C
On the other hand, the BLUEBIRD ALL AMERICAN can trace it's heritage back to the original WANDERLODGE.

 on: Today at 08:13:01 AM 
Started by Darkspeed - Last post by Darkspeed
I know Gordie, I will send him an email.


Thank you Siberyd!

 on: Today at 06:45:27 AM 
Started by thejumpsuitman - Last post by siberyd
In my research I have found the the front license plate holder was a stock item on the 4104. The concept was that it had space available for 6 mounted license plates and space for 2 more. In old times, some states required buses to be licensed to their state. So when the bus driver got to a state line, he got out and displayed the correct plate. Some companies spec'd buses to be delivered without them.


 on: Today at 06:26:04 AM 
Started by Darkspeed - Last post by siberyd
I know Gordie, I will send him an email.


 on: Today at 04:18:21 AM 
Started by AndyyCoulic - Last post by bevans6
Are the Magnum's Hybrids?  They are the only type that could work in this application.  Your AC will draw around 4,000 DC watts after inverter losses (the magnums put out 120 VAC each so you will have 240 VAC, not 220 VAC), and your 2,600 watts of solar will probably put out no more than 1,000 watts on an normal day (capacity factor of around 25%, double that for daytime use only, discount it for sub-optimum installation angle and orientation), so I'm not sure where you are going with this.  It will be a balance of cycle time on the AC vs power generation and who knows, it might work.  You have a nice big battery bank so you do have a lot of leeway on discharge, but the charge time of that bank is also very long and running it at partial discharge for long periods of time won't be good for it.  You'll have to arrange to fully charge and soak the batteries regularly

If your Magnum's are the Hybrid model and you have a handy 12V inverter, I'd sure as heck try it, the theory is good.


 on: Today at 02:22:33 AM 
Started by Tnghost - Last post by Tnghost
Thanks for all the replies guys now to find someone to install me something. It's funny no 1 has never installed something on my bus already guess they left me something to do 😆

 on: August 30, 2015, 10:57:18 PM 
Started by AndyyCoulic - Last post by AndyyCoulic
with the magnum 4024 ill be running 220v in the bus. (running two 4024 linked into a 1600ah 24v bank) so the 120v into the magnums would possibly power the ac and charge the battery bank with the help of the solar.

the ac is a 3 zone 30000btu split pulling 15 amps at 220v max. (running a 220v mini split has a higher seer rating than a 120v split). 2.6kw of solar sure is a lot for a bus! i'm surprised i figured out a way to get that much on my roof. but being up in canada it makes it a little bit less efficient with only having 3 months of summer and even less sun in the winter months. (don't need ac in the winter, but do plan to use the heat pumps until they won't work in too cold of temps).

 the plan is to still be able to float my system with the a/c on in the daytime during summer. but dawn/dusk/night time driving or cloudy days may hinder that with other appliances. so if i can just push some extra power like faking 120v to the magnum from the bus' power that would be great. and it would help with my voltage regulator from cycling constantly, from not having much of a load on it.

regarding insulation i have 3 inches of closed cell spray foam on the walls and ceiling. and 1 1/2 inches of foam board for the floor.

i'm not really worried about the efficiency loss as i have most of the parts laying around to do it and it won't really cost me anything to do it. (cheaper than finding a 24v gen and a 12v alternator and rewiring the bus). i was thinking if the inverter that id use for putting 120v into the magnum be connected via relay so it will only turn on when the bus is running, and have that inverter connected to the bus system without an isolator so it would draw comfortably and pull power from the gen/start batteries with no issues.

i want to make sure this all makes sense, and tho it may not be the most efficient process, i am more worried about damaging something else from trying to find a work around.
 i don't want to have to be frugal with power, but also don't want to connect to a pole if i don't have to

kind of all makes sense ya?

 on: August 30, 2015, 09:23:56 PM 
Started by Tnghost - Last post by TomC
If I'm staying more then 2 days in one spot, I'll level the bus with blocks then exhaust all the air out of the air bags to lower the bus down. Then it is resting on the rubber blocks. But funny-it bounces differently when bottomed out then with air in the air bags. When bottomed out, when someone is walking in the bus, it vibrates much faster than when it is pumped up. More solid, I guess. Good Luck, TomC

 on: August 30, 2015, 08:19:13 PM 
Started by Darkspeed - Last post by Darkspeed
There was a guy Gordie (Gordie Allen?) who did a center post delete on his 4104 and I wanted to know if he has had any problems with this?

Is he a member? Anyone know? This is a really cool idea and he did a great job on it!

I also wanted to know if he used something like 3M 08115 Panel Bonding Adhesive?


I finally got the windshield(s) installed on the third attempt. I wanted to eliminate the big vertical bar that divides the right and left halves. I did this with the windshield when we built our '39 Ford street rod. I used panel adhesive to glue in aluminum strips on each side of the windshield opening to narrow the opening by an inch overall, then installed the windshield gasket, glass, and locking strip. That left an eighth inch gap in the center between the two halves. I filled that with clear silicone. The install is rock solid and smoooooth.

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