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October 24, 2016, 01:48:43 AM *
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 on: October 23, 2016, 11:54:37 AM 
Started by bevans6 - Last post by luvrbus
It's 8 gpm flow for the Allson and set the fans to come on at 205* but anything between 200* and 250* will work, the Allison does not like cold operating temperatures fwiw    

 on: October 23, 2016, 11:31:12 AM 
Started by bevans6 - Last post by bevans6
I need to get one for my MT-647, I guess.  I was looking at a fan cooled 12" by 12" cooler, 1/2" NPT ports, but I really have no idea what I need.  I haven't been able to find a spec for either flow or cooling efficiency.  I guess I should also put in a thermostat switch to control the fan, but at what temp?  Where do people put them in a MC-5, behind the radiator seems a tad inconvenient.

Thanks, Brian

 on: October 23, 2016, 11:02:21 AM 
Started by Cary and Don - Last post by Gary Hatt - Publisher BCM
There a ton of info on the forum about Wrico Gensets.  Wrico's are very popular in the RV industry so you will get a lot of help on the Forum.  Your other source is to call Dick Wright directly as he is an extremely helpful guy which is why some people buy his generators from him over and over again.  If you have any problems with your Wrico genny, don't be afraid to call Dick directly as he is one of the best experts in the industry on the proper installation of Gensets.  They don't call him the Generator Man for nothing.  451 744 4333

 on: October 23, 2016, 10:50:56 AM 
Started by Cary and Don - Last post by luvrbus
You can probably get all you need from AutoZone unless you go with the 110v fan

 on: October 23, 2016, 10:30:09 AM 
Started by dtcerrato - Last post by dtcerrato
Wanted to mention radiator air flow of our 4104:
On our recent Alaska road trip, with the high percentage of time spent on dusty, loose gravel roads, it was very evident that the air turbulence at the radiator was stirring up a fair amount of dust & gravel to the point where the bus & the toad were not only eating it but collecting it in every available place that was able to collect & hold it... Even with multiple full mud flaps...
In the attached photo - notice the openings in all the structural members supporting the engine. Remember the belly pans that we sometimes mention on the post that are very seldom to be seen on our vintage coaches? Well in looking at the design in the photo of the way air was intended to flow; if the belly pans were installed, I believe not even a fraction of the dust & gravel would have found it's way into the engine compartment - mostly on the coach & would have been better also for the toad.
Notice the large horizontal structural channel (with the large holes) in the photo (supports the engine on the driver's side) - well just beyond (far side) of the channel (between it & the radiator) the underneath is wide open to the ground surface - thus creating much air flow downward to the ground. If there were belly pans, or even just a portion of home made shrouding in that area to divert the downward flow towards the transmission side of the engine - it would eliminate all the kick up of dust & gravel and also afford much better cooling by ventilating across the entire engine length on all sides (top, bottom, front, & back) especially after removing over a 1/4" of caked greasy dirt from the front side of the engine where the two mufflers are generating much heat. In our case we weren't overheating, but experienced higher coolant temps in high ambient temps and climbing hills (which is normal) but could be a lot more efficient of what is being mentioned here.
Always knew this condition existed but not to the extent it was. Since we got home, between the bus & toad, I have removed over 15 gallons & 100s of pounds of dust, gravel, & stone from the under carriage of both vehicles (& still doing so). It moved it from the back burner to the middle of my forehead.
Wanted to share those thoughts.

 on: October 23, 2016, 10:01:58 AM 
Started by Cary and Don - Last post by Cary and Don
We are thinking of removing our Wrico 12K genset off the engine cooling system. It is installed on the curb side just in front of the engine compartment. There is a narrow spot between the genset and the wheel well where we could angle a radiator. Another option would be in the engine compartment under the air intake sucking air off the pavement. Any ideas of where we could find a radiator and fan for this set up? Any other easier ideas for mounting a radiator?

Don and Cary

 on: October 23, 2016, 09:21:38 AM 
Started by Tikvah - Last post by brmax
Your spot on Clifford,  friends at the shop I mentioned like the IR wrenches, at their shop they have the rotary screw IR compressor, so I'm sure you know the don't have a problem with supply. They may get a small fleet discount?. Of course with 33 bays with a pro trained wrench in each turning wrenches on the likes of whatever HD including KW, Peterbilt's and Navistar's they talk, joke and get serious with tools as piece work pays with good performance. I was looking at the spec on my 1"quaker and it basically shows 17cfm consumption, I have never had it off of #1 setting of 3. It works on mine, a standard 2cyl shop compressor a typical one that ya cannot get parts for easy and reason I reamed and put inserts in the rods, what I think everyone does with these and aluminum rods. As a wrench I found it easier to look some specs up rather than go out to work, as its Sunday! anyway on the IR 3/4 it shows on their site like avg. 8cfm use and in looking farther right all the torques and other specs they as expected go farther (pro) and show consumption at up to 32cfm. Theres no doubt these Big Dogs can use some air, I dont mind waiting if I had to Huh.
I need to just go on and hook it to the bus back coupler to check a lug that's been setting there waiting on a new Alcoa, studs, nuts (dreaming) I guess its shop time>

coffee's good this morning

 on: October 23, 2016, 08:16:58 AM 
Started by edvanland - Last post by TomC
I have a King cruise control with air throttle. Because the V730 Allison also has an air controlled throttle modulator (gas pedal position sensor), I couldn't attach the King Cruise directly to the engine in the engine compartment. I measured the pedal and the travel of the end of the pedal-since I needed 2" of travel (if I remember correctly [and that doesn't happen as often as it used to]). I made a metal extension that I bolted to the end of the gas pedal. I drilled a large enough hole where the King Cruise pull cable could slide easily, and put a retainer adjuster at the end of the cable. I ran the King Cruise cable down through the floor of the driver's compartment, looped it under back up on the passenger side under the dash where I mounted the King Cruise control unit. The King Cruise pulls on the cable. Also when you order the King Cruise, you have to tell them what length cable you need. So now, the King Cruise pulls down on my gas pedal for me. At 60 (where you calibrate it) it works perfectly. It will work all the way down to around 20mph, just not as smooth (surges a bit). Also the King Cruise can be used for fast idle-which I like when I'm checking my tires. You have have some sort of speed sensor. I used a through drive for the speedometer-meaning, you take off the speedometer pulse generator off the transmission, mount the King Cruise pulse generator first, then reconnect the speedometer pulse generator to the King Cruise generator. The only other modification was having to add a 100ohm resistor to the brake light circuit since with LED lights, there wasn't enough resistance for the King Cruise to sense the brake lights. Has been 100% reliable since I installed it 15 years ago. Good Luck, TomC

 on: October 23, 2016, 08:06:18 AM 
Started by Tikvah - Last post by luvrbus
All impact guns are only as good as the air supply IMO.I am so lazy with air gizmos when it comes to airing up my tires I just set the regulator for the correct psi hang the chuck on the stem and come back and move to another tire when I think about it  Grin I am not going to spend 10 minutes airing up a tire

 on: October 23, 2016, 07:44:27 AM 
Started by Tikvah - Last post by brmax
Almost did! this morning bother you all with a post with HF air impact Wink

I picked up the earthquake 1" with long extension, and no offense I used a 3/4 snap on for many years "daily" no not monthy daily and many times hourly. I should have invested in a 1" long before when doing that fleetwork.

I agree bigtime using a small 1/2" impact tool for install and follow up with proper torque with wrench. Many of these new steel 2piece lugs can in their design have compression and be a tough nut getting off in the future. I had in the shops a separate 1/2 hose outlet just for the 3/4 and made available my 3/4 for the guys for wheel removal and believe me I had cheater pipes 12 feet away.

Some of my buds at another fleet shop swore by IR impacts and I did like them also, that shop had big air available, I kept and ran 125 at the coupler.

I am not sure of an easier way to unload the Earthquake and move it around the bus, but its real nice to kick back with an Ice Tea remembering how tough that job can be, and always had extra vocabulary. Earthquake Rocks!

good day there

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