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 on: February 20, 2018, 03:46:43 PM 
Started by PNWorBUST72 - Last post by bobofthenorth
If you have 100 coaches and one fails that's a 1% failure rate - maybe you'll live with it or maybe you won't but its a 1% failure rate.  If you have one coach and your alternator takes out your gear train that's 100% failure rate and its a catastrophe. 

You can't apply the same rational percentage failure based thinking that a large enterprise running a fleet of modern coaches uses when we're talking about end of life single coaches maintained by amateurs.  If the potential damage at failure is catastrophic, there is no penalty for taking remedial action and the cost of that remedy is nominal then it probably makes sense even if in a commercial setting it might not be cost effective.

 on: February 20, 2018, 11:44:00 AM 
Started by GnarlyBus - Last post by GnarlyBus
Ok luvrbus, that's helpful. Thank you!

I do have the 92 Series Engine Manual (even went crazy at the library one day printing most of it out!) and will reread the sections on valve adjustments. I just wasn't sure if I had to rotate the engine to adjust the jakes. Now it's clear that I do.

I'll wait for the solenoids to come and then see what happens when I install them. Oh and I just purchased a Jake Brake Feeler Gauge off eBay.

I'd like to run the engine for a bit with the valve covers off so I can see the operation of the valves and jakes. Would it be ok to run the engine with L shaped exhaust pipe that goes from the manifold on the left side up to the turbo off?

 on: February 20, 2018, 11:36:28 AM 
Started by richard5933 - Last post by richard5933
The factory bulge won't even come close to fitting. Mine is rectangular shaped with no ends. Allows more engine heat to exit, I guess. Made out of aluminum.

How much further does the cover need to protrude? Am I correct in thinking that the opening from the factory bulge will be large enough to mount the new bulge, or will I need to open the rear of the engine cover further? If the taller valve cover will fit through the opening left after removing the factory bulge, it shouldn't be difficult to fabricate a new one that looks similar to the original but sticks out further.

 on: February 20, 2018, 11:35:22 AM 
Started by GnarlyBus - Last post by GnarlyBus
Do you have a link / copy of the 92 jakes?

I recently printed this out, I printed about 4 different sections relating only to DD / Manual (non-DDEC) for my application.

That one is good, and this one is helpful, too.


 on: February 20, 2018, 11:25:14 AM 
Started by richard5933 - Last post by chessie4905
The factory bulge won't even come close to fitting. Mine is rectangular shaped with no ends. Allows more engine heat to exit, I guess. Made out of aluminum.

 on: February 20, 2018, 10:56:01 AM 
Started by Branderson - Last post by Branderson
Well, I finally got a hold of the paint place and took the bus there yesterday for a quote.  It was a kick in the stomach b/c I've been saving for this paint job and they basically quoted me double what I thought it would be.  Unfortunately, I have to get 3 panels replaced b/c of bubbling or issues.  I figured it doesn't make much sense to pay that kind of $ and not get the panels replaced b/c the bubbling would soon return if I didn't.

I went ahead and pulled the trigger so I left it there.  I kind of felt stuck b/c if I took the bus home, it would only get worse and I want to get it done, I just wished it wasn't going to cost that much.  My hopes is nothing else is found to be problematic once they start sanding things down.  It was hard to walk with the guy as he pointed out all the "trouble". As I looked at it, this ole girl really did need a paint job. 

I just hope it's worth it and we will be happy with the outcome. 

 on: February 20, 2018, 10:39:40 AM 
Started by richard5933 - Last post by richard5933
I think that on the next dry day I'll start trying to make my own template the old fashioned way by tracing the window opening to a piece of cardboard with a pencil. Hopefully I can get the cardboard to fit, and then transfer to a digital file to have the LASER machine cut the acrylic.

I'm going to basically do what dtcerrato suggested earlier, only I'll use the acrylic instead of masonite board. I can cut up to 3/16 acrylic on my machine, so that should make for a 3/8" thick rim, thick enough piece to hold firmly into place once the rubber gasket is applied.

I'll let you know once it's done how it works.

 on: February 20, 2018, 10:35:15 AM 
Started by richard5933 - Last post by richard5933
Confirmed today that the covers have the breathers on the side, and the bridges are from a 71. Should be good to go on both of those counts.

I did get a NOS fast idle buffer switch for the setup, at cost, from another shop in MN. Lucked into that. I think that the only thing I'll be missing are the solenoids, as the ones being sent are thought to be 12v and not the 24v needed. My assumption is that they can be found, perhaps even new if needed.

Anyone have experience making the needed extension on the engine cover to allow the taller valve cover to protrude? Or, does it just fit into the slight bump already present where the license plate mounts?

 on: February 20, 2018, 10:25:18 AM 
Started by scanzel - Last post by HB of CJ
Original mill and tranny?  I do not see a larger radiator.  Does it have a matching second radiator on the other side?  Yep .... how does it cool that big DD and Allison? 

An unusual Crown for sure.   It would be nice to see lots and lots of pictures.  Also wondering like others on any upgrades on the RV stuff.  Old wheels.  Asking a $lot$?


 on: February 20, 2018, 10:24:31 AM 
Started by scanzel - Last post by luvrbus
That bus belonged 1 time to a guy who owns gun shops in Phoenix and Scottsdale he also had a real rare Crown Sightseer only 1 I ever saw made in the 80's I think but not sure it's so long ago

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