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 on: January 29, 2015, 08:08:53 PM 
Started by Scott Bennett - Last post by lvmci
Hi All, I've  been looking all over for the inside headroom of the 102C3 but can't  find it, do you know RJ? And where do you find that?, tom...

 on: January 29, 2015, 07:24:38 PM 
Started by Scott Bennett - Last post by Scott Bennett
Is that true? Those are not the numbers I've read.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 on: January 29, 2015, 07:12:28 PM 
Started by Tikvah - Last post by PP
I was working in a Cat house about 40 years ago and driving a Willys PU with a Hurricane 6. The oil light wouldn't go out so I went to the shelf and grabbed a single wire unit for a Cat 3280 (if memory serves) and the threads were the same, so I screwed it in and hooked up the wire, It worked just fine. Where I'm going with this is, KISS. Don't make it more difficult than it has to be, just give Cliff the numbers and let the smart man figure it out for you. At least then you know it'll be right hehe.

 on: January 29, 2015, 06:56:57 PM 
Started by Tikvah - Last post by PP
Tikvah, It took me close to 2 years to get the stainless on my bus from anodized to mirror finish. I had to wet sand from 400 grit up to 1200 grit and then I switched to my Dewalt cordless on high speed with pads and rouge. I made my pads out of some wool carpeting that we tore out of the bus during one of many remodeling spurts. I cut 6" circles and use those round discs made for sandpaper. Start with grey rouge because it has emery in it for taking out all the scratches left behind after wet sanding. Then move up to the red (brown) and when you're really happy with it and can shave in it like a mirror, either call it good or put on the white rouge to keep it from weathering dull too fast. I actually tried wiping it with brake fluid one time because someone on here said that was an easy way to get the shine back, WHAT A MISTAKE! I played hell trying to get rid of the dull oil look in that spot and bring it back to the rest of the bus. I tried attaching before and after pics, but they're never the right size. I'll take another whack at it though in a minute.
Now, when you get the dear wife to polish something like a bus, please, I'm begging you, share that secret with the rest of us.

 on: January 29, 2015, 06:45:24 PM 
Started by Nineforever - Last post by Larry B
Hi JC-- when I did my bus I ordered new windshields from MCI but I also noticed that they where made by a company I think it was Calgary, Alberta. They had their name on a sticker in corner of glass.  Before you order anything let me find the company name for you. ( with bus paper bills at shop)- tomorrow. Maybe one can order direct instead of through MCI-- maybe cheaper.
       Larry B

 on: January 29, 2015, 06:42:18 PM 
Started by Tikvah - Last post by Tikvah
I think I'm missing something.
. . .actually, I think I just lost something - what the heck was that?

 on: January 29, 2015, 06:30:23 PM 
Started by Tikvah - Last post by krank
This is a full sweep .... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CM5mFH3_Qhs

 on: January 29, 2015, 06:21:30 PM 
Started by Tikvah - Last post by krank
Unless you are cutting thru the stainless or polishing paint, the tools you have there may not give you the finish you desire.

Generally polishing is done with an electronic variable speed 7" angle grinder and varying grades of polish. The buffing pads come in different weights as well. Generally speaking the lighter the colour the finer the polishing both in compound and in the pad/wheel. There are some compounds specifically for stainless steel but don't know exactly the name for them but the colour matches close to other polish of similar grits that are used on aluminium.


The grinder used is variable because you are quite capable of "burning" the metal due to the friction some compounds can generate. You usually use the slowest speed setting.

The compound to use would depend on where you are starting from and how polished you want to end up with. It is done in stages with a progressively lighter compound and buffing wheel.

The buffing pad comes in various designs with some ruffled material crimped in a centre hub. Some are layers of material sewn together to make a wider buffing wheel.

The smoother the compound + the smoother the buffing wheel = the better the reflection.

Here is a Canadian suppliers line up:   http://www.truckerssupply.com/Polishing.pdf
Here is a chart of compounds:          http://www.pjtool.com/jewelers-rouge-chart.aspx
Here is a link to get your wife to polish:   http://www.amazon.ca/How-Win-Friends-Influence-People/dp/0671027034

If you just want to do a few touch ups on the rust coated spots try using some silver polish available at any department store.

 on: January 29, 2015, 05:57:28 PM 
Started by Tikvah - Last post by Tikvah
Okay, we got off on the funny part about the wife polishing, but I really have no ideas if I have the right machines, the right pads, or what color compounds to use.


 on: January 29, 2015, 05:55:51 PM 
Started by Tikvah - Last post by Tikvah
I don't know what half sweep or full sweep mean.

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