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August 19, 2017, 12:30:38 AM *
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 on: August 18, 2017, 07:01:08 AM 
Started by Darkspeed - Last post by TomC
Bypass blower is a new rear plate. It involves removing and replacing the rear plate, attaching the feed hose to the pressure side of the intake. Bypass blower will bypass just enough air to equalize the pressure on either side of the blower to allow it to "freewheel" and not take power when you're pulling. I have one on my 8V-71. Good Luck, TomC

 on: August 18, 2017, 06:35:07 AM 
Started by Darkspeed - Last post by lostagain
Yes that is the turbo and injectors I installed in my 6V92TA. It has the mini by pass. It is located on top of the blower at the back of it at the fly wheel end. It is a cylinder a little bigger than your thumb.

Your engine will put out more heat. Your cooling system better be in good shape. Is this for a Flx bus, or an MCI ? In my 5C, I have the smaller rad blower pulley, and the bigger squirrel cages. I have to watch and manage the temperature when the weather gets hot, like above 30C, 90F. But the power is great to have. It goes as fast and hard as a loaded late model 53000 lb Prevost.


 on: August 18, 2017, 06:28:32 AM 
Started by rusty - Last post by luvrbus
That had to be a tough call for Shirley to make,it is sad but Jerry always said before he passed away he was only keeping it open till a few employees reached retirement I guess the time has come   

 on: August 18, 2017, 06:21:31 AM 
Started by Zephod - Last post by somewhereinusa
I have but, it's cheaper and easier to use stuff ready for 12V.
Here are the  lights above kitchen counter. Total cost for all ten lights, less than $20.


This is the same light only with diffuser I made for the bathroom.

 on: August 18, 2017, 06:19:14 AM 
Started by rusty - Last post by rusty
Jefferson bus in OK city is going out of business. Starting September 11th all parts are going on sale. More details to follow as things get finalized. Sad ending to an old bus service.


 on: August 18, 2017, 06:17:44 AM 
Started by oldmansax - Last post by Branderson
I'm curious about the burnt smell of fluid.  Does that normally only mean burnt fluid b/c it got too hot or does it typically mean a catastrophic break down of the transmission.

 on: August 18, 2017, 04:26:34 AM 
Started by oldmansax - Last post by oldmansax
I hope it is a easy fix too Tom but the smell of burnt oil is not a good sign,245 is a little warm they run between 180 and 220.They can tell in few minutes with a pressure test where the problem is.If I was closer I would help you and it would only cost you crab-cakes Shocked   
I know you would help if you were closer and I not only appreciate that but all the help you (and the rest of the guys on here) have been. If you were closer I would buy the crabs cakes anyway....help or no.  LOL! Once I get to the shop I will get the manual and pressure test it. I just didn't think I was gonna need hard core tools for a short run. Sad

Last question (maybe): It never did stop moving completely, meaning I can rev it up and move in 1st. Any chance I can get it going fast enough to shift into 2nd? Maybe get back to my shop (50 miles)?

Lin: Supposedly all fluids and filters were changed when I bought it. I have put less than 5000 miles on it. I was gonna change it anyway this fall when I do seasonal maintenance. Would filters cause this?



 on: August 18, 2017, 04:21:50 AM 
Started by richard5933 - Last post by chessie4905
As an alternative, you could use 4905 fender rubbers. The opening size is most likely the same. The fenders aren't as wide, but do the same function. Check some 4905 images. They may be hard to find also.

 on: August 18, 2017, 04:17:55 AM 
Started by j.m.jackson - Last post by chessie4905
If your air motor is the same as the 4905, there is no adjustment for total travel. The travel range is fixed in the design of the motor and internal shuttle valves. However, any wear or slop in the linkage will result in loss of travel. This includes the bushings that the shaft passes through in the body.

 on: August 18, 2017, 04:08:44 AM 
Started by Fred Mc - Last post by richard5933
I'll ditto the comment about the sending unit. I ran into many problems trying to add modern gauges to my old bread truck, and ran into constant problems with weird/inaccurate readings.

The truck had started with a Ford V8 and was later converted to a Cummins. No one had ever bothered to change the sending units on the engine when they did the swap. Unfortunately, by the time I got the truck sending units were not easily found which would work with 30+ year old Grumman gauges. Ended up changing out the whole works.

Bottom line is that I've found it best to always replace the sending unit at the same time as the gauge, and always using a sending unit either recommended by the gauge manufacturer or made by them specifically to match the gauge.


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