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November 22, 2014, 04:54:22 PM *
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 on: Today at 08:40:13 AM 
Started by Jeremy - Last post by Oonrahnjay
  ... I always thought if we could affix a capturing device for cow butts we could power the world! Lvmci... 

      I already mentioned Washington above!!

 on: Today at 08:19:03 AM 
Started by Seangie - Last post by Scott Crosby
Don't loosen a slack adjuster.  If that was she problem it would be rubbing when not applied.   Size didn't matter on the pad more likely it's the material that the friction surface is made of or something is in there like a mount screw came out.  I would take it off to inspect if it was mine.

 on: Today at 08:00:24 AM 
Started by Seangie - Last post by Seangie
For those who follow along with us...

We recently had our rear wheel bearing seals changed out when up in Montana over the summer.  One of the 2 seals was leaking and the brakes were covered in oil.  We made the decision to change out the brake pads and all the parts and pieces that go along with that.
We only changed the pads on that one leaky side though as the brakes on the other side were slightly worn and looked to be in good shape and not covered in oil.
The issue we are having now is that when we get down to under 15 MPH and apply the brakes at full to bring the bus to a stop the wheel with the new brake pads squeals very loudly.  Its pretty loud and squeal might not even be the correct term to describe the noise. 

I'm assuming that because  new brake pad is slightly thicker than the old pad on the other side that when I apply the brakes the new side is applying more pressure thus causing the noise.

I'm also assuming that I could loosen the slack adjusters to compensate

Is this the correct train of thought or should I be pulling the wheel apart to check something else?

Thanks guys.


Wandering the country in a 1984 Eagle 10S. 

 on: Today at 07:56:17 AM 
Started by bevans6 - Last post by TomC
Instead trying to experiment-maybe several different ways ($$$), just convert to an Allison automatic. I drove 13spd truck for 21 years and 1.3 million miles-and can say without a shadow of a doubt I LOVE my Allison Automatic (V730) in my bus.
So much so, I took out the 13spd in my truck and had an Allison HT740 installed for my truck conversion. Once you change to an automatic, you won't believe the difference in driveability, acceleration, and just having a big smile on your face everytime you drive. Instead now of frowning and dreading each time you shift. Good Luck, TomC

 on: Today at 07:25:14 AM 
Started by bevans6 - Last post by lostagain
An important consideration would be to retain smooth clutch feel. You don't want to end up with an easy push with an abrupt engagement. Think about starting from a stop. Up a hill. In stop and go traffic... "Drivability" is essential. I guess you could build something and try it. Good luck.

I love the automatic in my bus. After 40 years of shifting all kinds of manuals.


 on: Today at 07:12:58 AM 
Started by Midwilshire - Last post by sparkplug188
"self priming to 10 feet" means it can pull water up though 10 feet of vertical pipe on the inlet.  You shouldn't have a problem with 7 total feet of pipe and only 2 feet of vertical difference.

 on: Today at 07:06:33 AM 
Started by bevans6 - Last post by bevans6
So I have been continuing to think about this.  I've found that vacuum boosting the clutch is actually quite common, a lot of cars and trucks have vacuum boosted clutches stock.  They are all hydraulic, and set up in exactly the same way as the far more common vacuum boosted brake systems.  So I said to myself, maybe this is a good idea after all.  An 8" diaphragm with 23" of vacuum can develop up to 500 pounds of push, that would reduce my clutch pedal pressure to less than half what it is now.  Then I thought "Why go to all the trouble of converting the mechanical push to hydraulic and then back to mechanical?  Maybe you can do this with a fully mechanical system..."  My MCI clutch pedal operates through a series of bell cranks and push rods.  The basic pedal ratio to the first bell crank is 6:1, so a 6" travel on the pedal converts to a 1" motion at the bell crank attachment.  If I put a pedal in with a 6:1 ratio that can push directly on that bell crank, and put a booster on the push rod, I will get the same boost as I would with a hydraulic system but directly into the stock mechanical setup.  How easy would that be, and it would work just like stock (IE way too high a pedal pressure but usable) if the vacuum boost system failed.

So that is my thinking at this point on a cold but sunny Saturday morning...  This idea has the benefit of retaining just about all of the stock system, it's just a small change at the pedal end and you can convert back to fully stock in about an hour.  The major downside is that it retains just about all of the stock system, which is a great thundering long and complicated bunch of levers and arms and joints...  A dilemma indeed...    Roll Eyes


 on: Today at 07:06:23 AM 
Started by Midwilshire - Last post by lostagain
Mine is above the top of the tank by a few inches and works fine.


 on: Today at 06:53:33 AM 
Started by Midwilshire - Last post by bevans6
I would definitely try it.  The pump head is measure above the water level in the tank, so you would have up to two feet.  Once it's primed the first time it should hold prime.  If it doesn't hold prime then for convenience I might move it down to where it has a positive head pressure on the input.


 on: Today at 06:40:18 AM 
Started by Midwilshire - Last post by Midwilshire
We are mounting our Flojet water pump this weekend.  The manual says it's "self priming to 10 feet" without further explanation.

I built a shelf for it in the most-convenient and out of the way location, which turns out to be just above tank height about one foot above the water line.    This pex run from the tank outlet to the pump inlet would have about five horizontal feet and two vertical feet. 

Will this work, or do I need to put the pump on the bay floor below the water line? 

Thanks in advance.


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