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 on: Today at 12:01:20 PM 
Started by JT4SC - Last post by gumpy
Iota PDF on exactly what you are doing:  www.iotaengineering.com/pplib/balancedcharging.pdf

Ok, now I see what he's trying to do. 

I personally don't think there's much difference between the balanced charging and the "perfectly" balanced charging schematic. I use the balanced charging method and got 12 or 13 years on my last set of Trojans. It's more important to have a good quality three stage charger and have it's output adjusted for your particular battery bank.

 on: Today at 11:52:25 AM 
Started by JT4SC - Last post by bevans6
I am not a huge fan of obsessing over how you connect up batteries for optimized balance.  You do have them configured for equal and optimal balance in terms of charge and load if you move the connections to the switch (bus charge and bus load) to the same terminal as the inverter positive load is connected to.  I wired my switch so that it was between the batteries and the inverter - I can connect my inverter to just the house bank, or I can connect it to both the house bank and the bus start batteries/alternator.  House bank is on "1", bus batteries are on "2", my switch can do OFF, 1 or 1+2.  

Iota PDF on exactly what you are doing:  www.iotaengineering.com/pplib/balancedcharging.pdf

 on: Today at 11:49:16 AM 
Started by JT4SC - Last post by gumpy
Pretty much what BW said.

Need to know a) what voltage you're going for on your battery bank. b) what batteries you are using (6v?, 12v?) c) how you're planning to charge the bank (inverter? converter? alternator?)
d) whatever else you can supply.

There should be one ground and one hot wire on the bank and they should be a opposite ends of the parallel string. There should be a fuse on the hot wire and the switch should be the first thing after that. The inverter should be after the switch, not directly to the battery. Same with the charging

 on: Today at 11:35:44 AM 
Started by oldmansax - Last post by oldmansax
The Russians are at it again  Grin

Dadburned Russians!

Elections  are one thing.... but when they start messing with the bus nuts.....



 on: Today at 10:46:52 AM 
Started by JT4SC - Last post by buswarrior
What batteries are these? 6, 12?

Perhaps I didn't interpet the picture correctly?

That looks like a bunch of batteries, connected in parallel, with a whole bunch of unnecessary cables, with battery 1 going to fail first, battery 3 doing all the work, and 2 and 4 somewhere in between?

The battery switch shown seems to have no purpose in switching anything other than perhaps on and off?

This is a hard topic to work on via the Board, keep feeding us info, we'll get you right!

Happy coaching!

 on: Today at 10:20:08 AM 
Started by JT4SC - Last post by JT4SC
Hey guys,

I have spent alot of time re-configuring my house battery set-up to be balanced and safe.  I have drawn up a schematic showing how I have the batteries tied together and where they go (Picture attached). 

A couple questions for the battery experts:

- How does the interconnected wiring look from a battery balance POV?  I used the smartgauge website schematic found on another house battery post.

- Do I have the inverter wire going to the correct battery (battery 2) or should that wire also be connected to battery 3? 

- My schematic shows a battery switch (Picture also attached).  One of the positive cables shown on Battery 3 goes to a pole on the switch, which ties in to another wire which goes to the main house breakers inside the bus.  The second positive wire goes to a different pole on the switch.  This wire connects with the smaller red wire coming off the bus battery solonoid to help charge the house batteries when the bus is on.  I added an in-line fuse to the that wire because Gumpy yelled at me a couple years ago for not having one and almost starting a fire.  Smiley   

My main question here is: 1.) does this set-up make sense or should it be done different and 2.) I have the dial at "Both", should I always keep it at Both or should it be on 1 or 2 depending on if the bus is on or not?

- There is currently no fuse on the wire from the battery to the inverter, which I am 99% sure there should be (thanks Mike).  I believe it should be a catastrophe T-fuse, which should be installed on the wire running from the battery to the inverter.  Is this correct?

- Anything else I should be doing?  TIA!!!

 on: Today at 08:42:52 AM 
Started by brianzero - Last post by bevans6
FWIW, if I have air pressure up in my MCI, if I turn the belt tensioner control knob to "off", the air cylinder reverses and the belt goes fully slack, all the way, under air pressure on the cylinder.  If there is no air pressure, a heavy spring inside the cylinder keeps adequate tension on the belt.  When I have air pressure and the switch is "on", the belt is properly tensioned.  Now I need to make a note to buy a spare belt, even though the one on it is new.  We went around 6 years on the board with nary a discussion of belts, or a plea for a source and size, now - once a week!  What's up with that?


 on: Today at 08:12:14 AM 
Started by brianzero - Last post by buswarrior
Older MCI owners best be carrying a set of spare belts.

The ready availability of these is gone.

Depending on your region, there are precious few commercially running coaches with squirrel cage fans, and the 4 belt matched set alternator belts.

good used spares, you buy fresh ones for the coach, and set aside the take-offs as your spares. Then you know they fit, and you know their history.

Happy coaching!

 on: Today at 08:02:13 AM 
Started by oldmansax - Last post by buswarrior
NAFTA has broken down?

Funny that it works for some?

BossNut has been alerted.

Happy coaching!

 on: Today at 07:57:22 AM 
Started by brianzero - Last post by Dave5Cs
Not using the pry bar on the belt itself. Using it to pull the blower drive cradle downward to get the belt to slip over the pulley.

Yep not on the belt itself.

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