Bus Conversions dot Com Bulletin Board
April 20, 2015, 11:19:07 PM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: New ownership began September 1st 2012!  Please send any comments to info@busconversions.com
   Home   Help Forum Rules Search Calendar Login Register BCM Home Page Contact BCM  
Pages: 1 2 3 4 [5] 6 7 8 9 10
 on: Today at 04:54:22 AM 
Started by pete36330 - Last post by pete36330
I have a inline 6-71 that's been sitting about ten years,,whats the best way to check and make sure that none of the injectors are stuck ..anything else to watch out for and check before trying to start? ,,,Thanks

 on: Today at 04:42:44 AM 
Started by boxcarOkie - Last post by boxcarOkie
Uh .... "Yes, no, no, Yes, no, and I do not understand?"

For the most part, Y'all (Okie talk) did real well with one notable exception.  A few have assumed that it was "I who hit the couch" and that is incorrect.  According to the data I have, "if you hit it, then you are responsible."

Had a plumber drop a ladder in front of me in Amarillo Texas one time, and I did take that out, but have never hit a couch, occupied or not.


 on: Today at 03:46:24 AM 
Started by luvrbus - Last post by Hard Headed Ken
 Do you mean the mutiplate wet fan clutch?


 on: Today at 12:51:06 AM 
Started by daddyoften - Last post by Gordie Allen
Are you talking about having your start batteries (starter, lights, dash,etc.) running on 12 v and the house bank/inverter running at 24v? If that's your setup I don't see any issues with having both. Yes, 24v  allows smaller wiring, but the cost of 12 gauge for all low amp operations is, IMO, negligible in the overall cost of the project. And 2/0 is more than enough for distribution to fore and aft dc panels. I have my four 12v AGMs linked to a common heavy duty DIY buss made of 1/4" copper flat stock drilled and tapped with six 5/16 posts with equal length 4/0 connecting them to the inverter in parallel. If you want maximum battery life, keep battery cables equal length. I have 2-D8 wet batteries for vehicle needs (starter, lights, heater fan, and four 12" radiator fans) using a 160A alternator. With everything running, I'm at about 50% of the alternator rating. That's about where you want to be. We have a second 300 amp AC Delco alternator charging the house batteries on the road. I can turn this on or off via a 300 amp continuous rated solenoid to avoid over charging the AGMs. It's only charging when both air conditioners are running going down the road. As I said, I have four D8 AGM's with a total of 1000 Ahr. I have a 3000w - 120v Victron Multiplus inverter/charger (true sine wave, automatic switching, synchronized 60Hz boosting of shore power if needed). Since we wanted the bus to look original from the outside we have nothing on the roof. We have two 120v mini-split heat pumps which handle both heating and cooling. They draw a max. of 9amps AC each. Each is rated to cool 500 sq. ft. (the bus is 250 sq. ft.). They have kept us warm with ambient temps as low as 10*F. We normally run only one unless we're sitting with ambient temps above 85*F or below 15*F. We have an apartment size frig (9 cu ft). That's the max. AC components we run down the road or without shore power. Our shore line power is 50 amps with one side running through the inverter and the other bypassing it. On the bypass line we have the water heater, washer/dryer, dish washer, microwave and mini oven. If I want one of these when not on shore power, I can move the breaker over to the inverter side of the AC panel and ration the power (we have never had a need to do that). The only real boondocking we do is an occasional overnight at a truck stop. Hope this doesn't just add to the confusion, but there might be a nugget here or there you can use.

 on: April 19, 2015, 09:18:54 PM 
Started by RJ - Last post by lvmci
Thanks John, you hit close to home, tom....

 on: April 19, 2015, 08:02:59 PM 
Started by mikke60 - Last post by Gordie Allen
I just had my right rear inner seal replaced. Mostly just heavy wheels / tires. You need to have adequate jack stands for all that rear end weight. Preferably a 3/4" impact to get the lugs off. Pull the wheels, then the hub. Wash and re-grease the bearings. Check the condition of the brake shoes while you're there. The linings are probably soaked with differential grease. I did my front brakes myself, couldn't face doing the rear, so I took it to a shop. They replaced the seals, pulled wheels on both sides and checked the wear on the brakes. Degreased the right brake shoe set with solvent. I would have replaced the linings as I didn't think they could be effectively degreased. The only parts were the seals. Labor was just under $500. Worth every penny from my perspective..

 on: April 19, 2015, 07:36:44 PM 
Started by mikke60 - Last post by biff
I did mine not a bad job.other than the drums are heavy. Cool

 on: April 19, 2015, 07:28:13 PM 
Started by pabusnut - Last post by Lin
I just used two toggle switches; one for each stage.  The second switch is powered through the first.  If you do not mind giving up fast idle, as we did, the buffer switch is not expensive.  We generally do not idle at all, so the fast idle was not important.  However, on the rare occasion that I want a high idle for some mechanical reason, I put a weight on the fuel pedal.  It works!

 on: April 19, 2015, 07:02:52 PM 
Started by Me Too! - Last post by Me Too!
I would like to know of any history available, I just rescued it from the scrap man today.

 on: April 19, 2015, 06:56:34 PM 
Started by oltrunt - Last post by luvrbus
I just noticed the bus didn't have the exempt tags I have a friend that works for the San Bernardino Sheriffs Dept in Needles he has the CA Exempt tags on his patrol car 

Pages: 1 2 3 4 [5] 6 7 8 9 10
Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.18 | SMF © 2013, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!