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 41 
 on: May 23, 2015, 07:02:10 PM 
Started by gus - Last post by luvrbus
If it's a canister type cartage that is the right filter 

 42 
 on: May 23, 2015, 06:53:06 PM 
Started by BeastMaster - Last post by Jriddle
I'm not sure if this is your problem but check your rear start panel and make sure the switch didn't get moved to the off position. The engine will start with this switch in the off position and run until the air pressure comes up enough to actuate the shut down cylinder piston. Then will not run again until air pressure is lost. Don't ask me how I know but someone here helped me once with this.

John

 43 
 on: May 23, 2015, 06:45:43 PM 
Started by gus - Last post by gus
Best I can tell the proper filter is AC Delco PF-132 for the 8V71 on my 4107?

Is this correct?

Thanks.

 44 
 on: May 23, 2015, 06:23:49 PM 
Started by BeastMaster - Last post by BeastMaster
I have a DD 8V92TA, (non DDEC) I started the engine today and within 30 seconds it just died. Never reached full idle RPM. Thought it may be a fuel problem so closed the ball valve just prior to primary filter. Replaced both primary and secondary fuel filters. Both had fuel when removed. I filled the new ones prior to replacing. I opened the ball valve and tried to start the beast. - No joy.
I suspect the fuel pump since it always looks 'nasty' around the pump like its leaking. Will try and prime tomorrow, and try a shot of starter spray in the air intake and see what happens.
While cranking, there is white-gray smoke that smells 'hot', but nothing. There is no air right now so emergency shut down is retracted. Could there be an electrical problem I have not checked or thought of. Coolant and oil levels are file, no indicator lights on dash, aside from no gen and low air.

If I replace the fuel pump, is it a LH or RH pump (I know stupid question), and should I replace the fuel lines while I am at it. Assuming Luke to be best source for the pump and lines?

Thank in advance,
Allan
1989 MCI 102C3 8V92TA with HT740

 45 
 on: May 23, 2015, 06:12:42 PM 
Started by Larry B - Last post by Larry B
Thank-you for the info Clifford, as always you are an unbelievable amount of knowledge. The ring will definately be a lot less work. Also as I do not have any oil leaks among all that bolt up stuff to allow for a change out of a timing gear cover case I would be best to leave well enough alone. 
         Larry B

 46 
 on: May 23, 2015, 05:54:43 PM 
Started by Lostranger - Last post by sledhead
Brian
do you know how much they cost ?

thanks   dave

 47 
 on: May 23, 2015, 04:21:09 PM 
Started by tuccitown - Last post by Jriddle
Because I had to use brute force and ignorance to remove them. Some I drilled, some I burnt.

I thought about not using any at all, as the drum is held on by the wheel studs, but those screws do  hold the drum centered on the hub before the wheel is put on.

JC

I'm sure they serve the purpose to keep the drum on when removing the wheel. I'm not sure they are that important for how many times I will be taking off the wheels with my RV use.

Just my thoughts
John Smiley

 48 
 on: May 23, 2015, 02:53:41 PM 
Started by Lostranger - Last post by Lostranger
Clifford, you've hit the very thing, and only $14.27/ea.  http://www.go2marine.com/product/39595F/sea-dog-push-button-rim-latch-cabinet-door-hardware.html

Brian, where do you buy this item?

Thanks again,

Jim

 49 
 on: May 23, 2015, 12:46:49 PM 
Started by skytrends - Last post by opus
In a pinch, I think (iirc) I have "made" that seal ring from neoprene 1/4 inch id hose...

I pulled it apart and replaced the o ring and that solved it.

 50 
 on: May 23, 2015, 11:53:25 AM 
Started by Lostranger - Last post by Brian Diehl
I use these.  I love them.  They have been working great for 8 years now with no problems.

http://www.hafele.com/us/en/external/blaetterkataloge/TCH2015-FC/index.html?startpage=10.60

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