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 on: September 02, 2014, 10:52:38 AM 
Started by bcbusman - Last post by seaton@mta
Not really identical.  Flyer ripped off general design of GM new look but buses are completely different.  Also, the GM New Look has a six-piece windshield while New Flyer has four.  Does not look to be a fit, plus lower pieces of GM windshield are slanted while Western Flyer is straight.

- Seaton

 on: September 02, 2014, 10:41:19 AM 
Started by Scott Crosby - Last post by luvrbus
Yep that is what I think happen too it ran ok before he replaced the gasket lol he won't do it again

 on: September 02, 2014, 10:27:33 AM 
Started by mike802 - Last post by Lostranger
Here's an option most bus converters never consider, but it's worked on boats for generations:


I realize that wood heat is not for everyone, but it works for us. We full time in a 40' Gillig H2000LF. Our stove is custom built steel, but we used a cast iron Little Cod for inspiration. About the same size fire box. Ours is more air tight. More on our installation can be found at this thread: http://www.nomadicista.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=2541&sid=47aa98a0c7f390eafe9ee59c7c15dc95

Propane works for us in some areas. Our Rheem tankless water heater is wonderful, and we would not consider cooking any way other than gas. Our Maytag Neptune dryer is propane, of course, but we seldom use it.

Propane does not work for us as a heat source. Forced air furnace fans would suck too much of our off-grid electric power, and radiant heaters are like giving the interior a constant water spray. Seriously considered going radiant floor heat with diesel or propane fired boiler, but energy use and maintenance issues held us back.

Even though we love our tiny wood stove, this winter we're also planning to use the ThermoKing Tripac auxiliary power unit I'm currently refurbishing. Not only available for supplemental heat in the back 1/3 of the bus (bed/bath/laundry), it will also keep the battery bank charged while it's running. By the time warm weather comes around, maybe I'll have the mechanical AC feature of the APU installed in our bed room. All from a tiny, two-cylinder Yanmar rated at 13.7 HP.

Our primary heat, however, will continue to be a wood stove.


P.S. I'm amused when people say they have an "all electric" coach. Almost without exception that means: "I have an enormous, diesel-fired generator in the belly of the beast." Nothing wrong with that approach if it works for you, but it's far from being "all electric."

 on: September 02, 2014, 10:10:18 AM 
Started by Scott Crosby - Last post by Don Fairchild
It looks like the fork was not in the riser the way it need to be and when you tightened down the bolts it bent and jammed. That will cause a brown substance to gather in you drawers real quick.

Hope all  turns out ok. I do have parts if you need them. I have three 6-71's I could sell you if you wanted.


 on: September 02, 2014, 09:56:14 AM 
Started by mung - Last post by eagle19952
pull the tool towards you.....
most important advice, pushing the tool never worked well for me
start the lock strip first and feed the loose remainder ahead of/through  the tool.. ymmv etc.

 on: September 02, 2014, 09:43:51 AM 
Started by bcbusman - Last post by qayqayt
Drop me an e-mail or call me on my cell:  604-219-8430.  I can show you around our transit Museum shop and you can have a look at the glass.  I don't honestly know what we'll sell it for, it's up to our Prez to decide.  At the very least, you'll know if it's the right glass.


 on: September 02, 2014, 09:07:10 AM 
Started by mung - Last post by mung
Thanks.  It does seem like the diamond shape tools would work better than the other type.  I think the real key is going to be shimming the windshield up so that there is just a little more space to work the locking strip into the rubber. 

 on: September 02, 2014, 08:38:57 AM 
Started by siberyd - Last post by siberyd
More 4104's in my sights at the end of August.

4104-3236 Northern Minn.
4104-3260 Sighted by RJ Long in Fresno, CA
4104-0750 for sale Ebay, Logan Utah
4104-0008 oldest in my database has new owner in Texas
4104-0768 bought in OR, traveling to FL
4104-2754 for sale, Monterey, CA.


 on: September 02, 2014, 08:21:02 AM 
Started by TomC - Last post by TomC
Anyone that has the AMGeneral with first generation bus with a 10240A or 10240B or 10235A or 10235B with the symmetrical 4 piece windshield-do you have extra windshield glass available you could send to Coach Glass in Coburg, Or? They are very interested in getting the glass so they can make the molds for new. The gal I talked to said that once the windshields are made, she thought the actual price on them would be around $300 for the big piece and $150 for the small. This is the one big thing that makes me nervous about driving the AMGeneral-getting a rock strike that shatters the windshield. I have done numerous rock chip repairs. But would really like to have extra replacements on hand. Good Luck, TomC

 on: September 02, 2014, 08:10:51 AM 
Started by mung - Last post by Oonrahnjay
Ooon gives good advice, it is a tough job even with the correct tool. The strip is easy to stretch and then it slowly shrinks leaving a gap. So try not to stretch it and make the strip an inch or so too long, then wait a day or two to let it adjust before making the last cut.

Install the bottom strip first since the weight of the glass is on it - the top is easier

Use lots of dishwashing detergent since it is the mildest. Gojo is a grease solvent, not good for rubber.  

     There are a number of little tricks ... cut the gasket so that you have to push it into place and there's pressure from the two ends butting into the gap.  Remember, if you don't get it 100% into the corners, the pressure of the glass will push the gasket into the corners -- if the ends are cut too short, the gap will be pulled apart and widen.   Some people think that the gap should be be upper center of the glass (thinking that rain etc. will run away from the gap), others think that it should be on the side at about 2:00 position.  I don't think it matters much as long as there's pressure by the two ends butting together when all the gasket is forced into place by the glass.  And the gap in the lace should be 180 from the gap in the gasket.
     Another thing, as you're putting the lace in, push it in with your fingers; the process of using the tool will pull it and that tension will draw it up and shorten it if you don't push it in as you go.  Gus is right about leaving a bit of the lace sticking out for a day or two.  Even if you pushed them in as you've gone along, you'll be surprised at how much they draw up.  It's worth it to try to lessen that tension as much as possible.
     And Clifford is right about lube.  At Land Rover, we rarely used this kind of installation on anything but the little "eyebrow" windows over the side windows and small side fixed windows.  Since they were small (and the guys did it all day and could just zip through them), dish soap would stay liquid long enough to work for us but i can see that a large job -- like a windshield -- it might not.  But beware, some lubes will attack and rot rubber so whatever you use, be sure that it's compatible with rubber compounds.   And yeah, the right plastic tools are necessary.  The "Hi-Teck" metal tool that Eagle shows in the photo is what we used on the production line, push the lace into the diamond-shaped gap as you pull the tool towards you.

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