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 on: November 23, 2014, 07:05:18 AM 
Started by zubzub - Last post by gumpy
Not quite sure I fully understand what you are trying to do.

Most diesel burner units have a control board and temp sensors that turn them on and off to keep the coolant within a specific range around 180F. Typically,
all you have to do is turn on a switch and the unit will heat up and shut itself off when the sensor says it's hot. Then, you use a thermostat to control the
circulation pump and heat exchanger fans inside.

I don't understand what the timer would be used for.

 on: November 23, 2014, 07:03:16 AM 
Started by sparkplug188 - Last post by tom120
Urethane windshield adhesive as used in modern windshields is an excellent low cost caulk. it wont shrink, crack, harden or degrade in the sun. Its also paintable as long as you dust epoxy primer on it first. mask everything first and peel the tape quickly. I like to use 1.5 inch wide masking tape first set about 1/4 inch away from actual seam. then run a strip of 1/2 inch wide automotive 3M Fine Line auto body painters type tape. if you are using the 1.5 inch masking tape over a painted area rub the adhesive side on your clothing before applying so that you aren't ripping paint off. if its still hard to pull off when you are done warm it in the sun or use a heat gun. Would advise that you don't apply in hot weather or on a hot surface as you wont have much working time on something as large as a bus. wear gloves too and clean up the area with lacquer thinner when you are done. you can dab your finger in the lacquer thinner to smooth the freshly applied thinner. Its always worked great for me. Thanks.

 on: November 23, 2014, 06:54:30 AM 
Started by brianzero - Last post by brianzero
Right, I did want to go with the OEM setup, with the oil bath and all. I havent dug into the air filter assembly yet, but Im about to. Hopefully its just a change of oil that's needed. By the way, its an 1983 MCI-9.

 on: November 23, 2014, 06:37:18 AM 
Started by zubzub - Last post by sparkplug188
You can wire a programmable thermostat to a contactor to control nearly any 120/240vac or 12/24vdc load.

Can I use a programmable thermostat as a simple on/off timer at very low ambient temps?

The answer to that question will depend on the capabilities of the thermostat.  Most programmable thermostats let you automatically schedule change the set temperature four times per day.  Some will let you choose "off" for the scheduled set temperatures-- others only let you set a numerical temperature (55-90).  I think you will need to experiment with a couple thermostats to find one that will do what you want.

If the thermostat doesn't work out, consider a basic home automation system.  I know you can get the results you want with a Z-Wave Vera Lite, temperature sensor and an appliance module.  ..or a simple timer would work, like you mentioned in your post.

 on: November 23, 2014, 06:15:35 AM 
Started by Dave5Cs - Last post by Ace
Gumpy I was thinking the same thing when I saw it!

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 on: November 23, 2014, 05:55:04 AM 
Started by Jeremy - Last post by digesterman
LOL, in total agreement Ros, but we probably have offended someone that is allergic to the truth

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 on: November 23, 2014, 05:36:03 AM 
Started by zubzub - Last post by zubzub
Can I use a programmable thermostat as a simple on/off timer at very low ambient temps?
I would like to control a proheat.  I have found a few dedicated 12V timers on line, but a I have a spare 7 day timer
I was wondering if I could use it to time my proheat.....
Obviously I can use it to turn on/off the timer at reasonable temperatures, but as the low setting is 55 F., I'm thinking it will turn on anyway as  soon as I get it outside in the cold as a default.  Most thermostats made for residential have a low setting of 55 which I presume means they kick in no matter what at 55 to avoid freeze damage in the home.
I would like to do this ASAP and I seem to recall someone here saying I could use a thermostat to control a proheat, and I had only just considered the 55 cut in possibility.
BTW if I had a multimeter handy I could double check the low cut in, but I don't, so it is really just a presumption.

 on: November 23, 2014, 05:01:36 AM 
Started by Dave5Cs - Last post by gumpy
Wonder how well that plywood will work for the side walls. Seems a bit iffy to me.

 on: November 23, 2014, 04:50:24 AM 
Started by sparkplug188 - Last post by sparkplug188
Bruce- You are right.  However, there are sealers made for standing water and underwater use.  The guy at the RV shop said Dicor will work in standing water.  The tube doesn't say if it will or won't work.  We will just have to see if it holds up.

Liquid EPDM sold on Amazon brags about not being affected by standing water or underwater use.  I might try that if the Dicor doesn't last.

3m adhesive on the outside of the gutter is probably the best functional solution. The only reason I am avoiding it is, my gutters are shiny polished aluminum.  I don't know sealant lines would look from the ground.

 on: November 23, 2014, 04:05:14 AM 
Started by Lostranger - Last post by Lostranger
Look carefully at what you buy and make sure it isn't out of date.  I've seen several stores with out of date sika flex on the shelf.  One of them was an RV dealer.  I went back a month later and it was still on the shelf.  The date code should be stamped on the bottom. 

Everything I bought from Merritt was in date. I bought primer once that was within 30 days of expiration, but that was my choice. They notified me after I ordered of the date situation and gave me the option of waiting 5 days for their new supply. I chose to get the in-stock product since I was in a hurry, and I was going to use it immediately. At that point they gave me an additional discount on the older product. I loved it!

Darryl, did you get my reply to your last email?

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