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 on: September 19, 2014, 10:10:08 AM 
Started by mung - Last post by chessie4905
   You can save some by using Bandag or Michelin recaps on the rear.

 on: September 19, 2014, 10:06:52 AM 
Started by Tikvah - Last post by chessie4905
   Paint around both lips with antiseize and the clamp will slide up nice and snug without torquing the H out of the bolt. Just tight; don't go crazy. NAPA clamps are all right, I've used them. You could probably go to a truck stop/ repair location for one if you're in a hurry.

 on: September 19, 2014, 10:00:39 AM 
Started by Tikvah - Last post by krank
As you are tightening the clamp give it little taps all around, tighten a little more, tap a little more, you get the idea.

 on: September 19, 2014, 09:23:44 AM 
Started by Tikvah - Last post by luvrbus
Dave you can buy cheaper clamps I just don't like steel clamps because with the heat they stretch see the nice clamps you have on the pipes those are 40 bucks each,wait and see what Luke charges when he gets back on Monday he may have a good replacement for less money lol I am set in ways as you can see and to old to change now  Cool

 on: September 19, 2014, 09:21:20 AM 
Started by Tikvah - Last post by eagle19952
looky here....measure what you have first....


 on: September 19, 2014, 09:07:08 AM 
Started by Tikvah - Last post by Tikvah
NAPA quoted me about $28 bucks but it will take 4 - 5 days.  He didn't give me the warm fuzzy feeling that he found the right part so I left.  I sent Luke an email and tried to call but no answer.  I'll let you know what I decide to do when I talk to him. 

Luvrbus, I know you're right - you usually are, but 75 bucks for that clamp makes me squirm.  I hope you're wrong this time (like that will ever happen Smiley )

 on: September 19, 2014, 08:41:53 AM 
Started by mung - Last post by mung
We hope to be using it quite a bit, seeing that we are dumping a LOT of money into this bus.

 on: September 19, 2014, 08:39:36 AM 
Started by DKO - Last post by DKO
Up on the roof again this morning. As recommended by several places online I sprayed 409 all purpose cleaner very liberally and repeatedly on both sides of the evaporator coil. Between each application I used a spray bottle to spray water on the coil to rinse it off. It did not seem very dirty at all but at least I know it is cleaner now.

Then I used a pitcher and poured two gallons of water all over the coil letting it run down in the tray and out the drains. Jeff from East Tennessee Luxury Coach over on the PC forum suggested that and it was a good idea. This served two purposes. First, it insured the 409 was rinsed off the coil well and secondly it tested the integrity of the catch tray and drains.​

With all this water filling the tray and running through, not one drop leaked into the tray that is supposed to be dry but was full and spilling over inside the coach earlier in the week.​

 I have read and been told that a clogged evaporator coil can cause the condensation to do weird things. If cleaning the evaporator coil does not fix it then I am stumped.​


 on: September 19, 2014, 08:38:53 AM 
Started by mung - Last post by Oonrahnjay
  ... Get covers for your tires to protect them from the sun. 

    Yes, this is the most important thing but it is also a good thing to drive the bus regularly.  If you run the tires, you warm up and distribute the chemicals in the rubber that are put into it to protect it and keep it flexible.  Using them makes them last longer than not using them.  Yeah, strange, but that's the way it works.

 on: September 19, 2014, 08:06:04 AM 
Started by Tikvah - Last post by luvrbus
RG Ray is the best clamp there are others a lot cheaper but I pay the 75 bucks for the American made s/s Ray you won't break the 5/16 tee bolt in a Ray clamp and don't buy a cheapo stamped V band clamp unless you buy 2  Grin and fwiw a OEM clamp from DD cost over a 100 bucks for S/S, the Ray with the S/S tee bolt torques 40 lbs for the 5/16 bolt size 1/4 inch around 30 lbs

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