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 51 
 on: February 26, 2015, 01:06:05 PM 
Started by siberyd - Last post by siberyd
Tom,

Sometimes people will share the price they pay in their bus transactions. I have seen buses go for unique amounts. Anything fromun free to 25k. I will inquire how much the bus went for and see if I get a response. I do know that there were atleast 2 different people that wanted that coach. The non-winner went and bought a seated coach that will be painted in Greyhound colors. Seems the movie Shawshank Redemption was filmed in his town. He already bought the Ford bus from the opening credits.

 I filled the University's email box with enough bus stuff to help them with any endeavor.

National Bus Trader Magazine has a price list in the back every quarter. It gives the going price for seated coaches including 4104's.

Siberyd

 52 
 on: February 26, 2015, 11:58:15 AM 
Started by siberyd - Last post by pd4501-771
Hey Jon

Do you ever get sale price info on these transactions? As a seated 04 owner I would love to know what that bus sold for. I keep close tabs on all 4501 prices, as people often ask what things are worth. In my opinion, recent sale prices are at least somewhere to start with for a value. Or maybe I'll cry, as I missed a smoking deal! Feel free to PM me if you prefer not to discuss on line. Take care

Tom


 53 
 on: February 26, 2015, 09:22:58 AM 
Started by Tikvah - Last post by eagle19952
I believe what Brian said, one or more batteries has a bad cell or are aged out.
A good battery will not boil out that quickly, in my experience.
as long as the plates are covered there is enough water.
Do you use distilled or tap water ?
Wre they my batteries I would do an equalization charge and then a heavy load test.

 54 
 on: February 26, 2015, 09:09:10 AM 
Started by Tikvah - Last post by bevans6
You may have one failed or failing cell in a battery.  The smart charger shifts into trickle charge/maintenance mode when it senses the voltage of the battery is up to a certain level and current flow has tailed off to near zero.  If a battery has a bad cell it might never get to that point, and the smart charger might not switch to it's maintenance level point.

Brian

 55 
 on: February 26, 2015, 08:56:37 AM 
Started by Tikvah - Last post by Tikvah
Quote
When was the last time you checked water levels?

I made sure they were full, and clean the terminals at the end of summer when we left our park in Michigan.  Put on some miles since then but just normal stuff.
I have a small smart charger... but I've had that awhile.

Dave

 56 
 on: February 26, 2015, 08:52:13 AM 
Started by Tikvah - Last post by Oonrahnjay
I opened my battery door the other day and my engine start batteries were gurgling.  Also, the top of them were a bit wet. 
I haven't been driving for awhile, just parked and maintained on a battery charger.
I haven't seen that before, so I killed the disconnect switch and unplugged the battery charger and left it there a few days.
Tomorrow we start driving again, so today I opened the door again, unhooked and pulled the batteries and they were low on water.  I poured about 1-1/2 gallon into the two batteries.

So, did they boil because they were low on water?
Or, did are the low on water because they boiled?

Dave

     Hard to know without measuring voltages, etc. but it sounds to me like your charger has been overcharging them.  You need a higher voltage to get through the resistance of the battery when charging but when the battery is at (or very nearly at) full capacity, the charger should drop back to a lower "float" charge (assuming that you have a "smartcharger".   And batteries will react differently to charging depending on whether they're fresh and working well or older and showing signs of aging.
     On the other hand, wet-cell batteries lose a little water over time with normal charging.  When was the last time you checked water levels?
     All just WAIG'n, but that charge system is the first thing I'd look at.

 57 
 on: February 26, 2015, 08:42:02 AM 
Started by Tikvah - Last post by bobofthenorth
Your charger boiled them dry.  You need a better charger if you want to leave it on all the time.

 58 
 on: February 26, 2015, 08:38:54 AM 
Started by Oonrahnjay - Last post by Oonrahnjay
   Often in these type threads a person will ask if something is suitable and will pretty much state honestly that they have $800 - $1000 to spend. ... 

    Good point, Don.  In my first post, I specifically asked for "the best" - with cost a secondary question.  I am retired and "on a fixed income" so I'll have to factor in cost, but I want this bus to be my home for as many years as I have the health to do it -- I'm not going to waste money, but I don't mind a wise investment -- by "wise" I mean something that works well now and is reliable over the years to come.  So, I don't mind that people have described expensive units.  I'm going to take their descriptions of their experiences and opinions and put them into the many-factor mix. 
    To have a unit that will take me until I'm 80, it would need to last 14 years and be suitable for the technology of 2028. I think that means that I'll need to go with "what they now call 'pure sine wave but really isn't'" for it's technical capabilities.  I got a bit stung on the Outback purchase -- I didn't do my figures right and bought too small a unit and misunderstood it's listed claim for "load-shifting" versus "load-sharing".  I really appreciate that people have described the load-sharing abilities of the equipment that they've had experience with.  That's been the help I've needed.
    I'm not sure that I'd have replaced the Outback (although the lack of true-load-sharing would have been a burr under my saddle for as long as I had it) for what I've got planned but an engine change makes a move to a 24V house system pretty much necessary.  And 24V on the house system will be better for higher loads of systems like the air conditioning system I have planned for the future.
    I have sort of assumed that buying used unit off EBay is a little risky for complex electrical equipment that's supposed to last 14 or 15 years, esp. since I have not had a lot of experience installing, diagnosing, or repairing electrical or electronic equipment. I think I'll have a good discussion with myself, but it seems that that's a pretty good assumption *for what I need* (not saying that it is the way to go for anyone else).
    I appreciate your input on this thread and the fact that you've taken the time and energy to help - a lot of what you've talked about is "going back to the basics" and that's been especially helpful.  Thanks, and Good bussin' to you!

 59 
 on: February 26, 2015, 08:36:24 AM 
Started by Tikvah - Last post by Tikvah
I opened my battery door the other day and my engine start batteries were gurgling.  Also, the top of them were a bit wet. 
I haven't been driving for awhile, just parked and maintained on a battery charger.
I haven't seen that before, so I killed the disconnect switch and unplugged the battery charger and left it there a few days.
Tomorrow we start driving again, so today I opened the door again, unhooked and pulled the batteries and they were low on water.  I poured about 1-1/2 gallon into the two batteries.

So, did they boil because they were low on water?
Or, did are the low on water because they boiled?

Dave

 60 
 on: February 26, 2015, 08:12:25 AM 
Started by Rick 74 MC-8 - Last post by Oonrahnjay
I was going to suggest driving up the Shenandoah Valley for a ways on your route north.  It's lovely, very historic, and relatively flat and you do it off the interstates.  I kind of start around Greensboro NC and go north up Hyw 29 aways.  It's kind of out of the direct route to Chicago, though.

Brian

    Yes, that's a good route for someone going north-east.  I'd suggest that - since he's going northwest generally - he head for the Greensboro area but then cut over to Pilot Mountain and Mr. Airy, then north into the Valley from there.   It's hard to find a good cross-over for a large vehicle north of Danville VA.  Join US-11 north of Mt. Airy, and head up the Valley as you like.  A good place to tack back west would be I-69 near Hagerstown; it will take you across western MD and the very northern parts of WVa.  Then you can go west from Morgantown WVa into southern Ohio, or cut up toward Pittsburg and take the toll-roads (note: I hate toll-roads) on west.

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