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 61 
 on: February 08, 2016, 06:22:20 PM 
Started by kjurkic - Last post by TomC
I turbocharged and air to air intercooled my 8V-71. Used 7G75 injectors for 375hp and 1125lb/ft torque (was dynoed). The bus really charges up hills now. Pulls the Grapevine 15mph faster than when non turbo'd. Only have to down shift on big hills. I say this, because I know you'll be satisfied with the S50 if you just turn it up. The S50 at 375hp will put out more like 1230lb/ft torque. If you have problems with the V730 slipping, just have a transmission shop bump up the valve pressure a bit. Mine was modified and shifts just fine under full power. DON'T change that engine. The S50 is just about the most perfect RV engine you could ever want. Good Luck, TomC

 62 
 on: February 08, 2016, 05:39:46 PM 
Started by kjurkic - Last post by kjurkic
Thanks all

I do know the best power adder for an old vehicle is making sure everything is tuned to spec.

I am hoping to get it into a DDEC specialist sometime in next few months to see about a once-over to ensure all components up to snuff.

I have a couple of long uphill grinds on the routes I am planning to charter over, walking speed ain't quite enough for me Wink

Just spent last couple of days re-configuring seating and luggage racks for better layout. I am really impressed with the design/build quality of the RTS. I was expecting to have to use the angle grinder to remove old bolts, but only needed some release-all and elbow grease due to all stainless hardware.

cheers
Ken

 63 
 on: February 08, 2016, 04:33:57 PM 
Started by krank - Last post by brmax
Jim if your looking around that ddec/ecm on your motor, the passenger side has the carefully tightened wire connectors keeping them in place.
If no wire, a rubber plug is used to seal that cavity and common.
http://hubpages.com/autos/detroit-diesel-ddec-iii-and-iv-ecm-vehicle-interface-connector#slide10852834

hth
Floyd

 64 
 on: February 08, 2016, 02:41:03 PM 
Started by krank - Last post by krank
OK, ya lost me at "cavity K-1" Cliff.

 65 
 on: February 08, 2016, 02:29:38 PM 
Started by Mike in GA - Last post by jackhanow
so having changed my oil both regularly and on some things regular was some time in the last year or so, I've found the biggest difference is how hard you stress the machine. The more stress, the more heat. People should pay more attention to crankcase ventilation because the fumes that build up in the crank case, condensation, and high heat cause the oil to break down and create free fatty acids, just like the doc says, causes oxidation and build up on the surfaces. Even plugs up the Lube ports. For the most part oil is oil, the difference is mostly the additives. Don't skimp on filters. Buy good filters and change the filter at your half way point. Kubota motors are tough and for the most part are overbuilt when compared to other motors. I've often wondered over the years if there is such a thing as over maintaining a
Maschine. Have a customer that changed his oil every 5000 miles and the motor gave up just under 200k and have another with the same identical truck and motor that changes his a couple times a year and he pulls a 12k lb trailer most of the time and he's pushing 600k on the original motor go figure. Is it oil or luck. 

 66 
 on: February 08, 2016, 01:32:11 PM 
Started by Raymond smith - Last post by Cary and Don
The trick to roller painting is the pad. Buy a really good sheep skin short nap pad. Yes they are expensive, probably about $15. They will give a nice smooth roll without shedding little fuzzies into the paint. They also are a lot easier to clean.

Cary

 67 
 on: February 08, 2016, 01:27:25 PM 
Started by Bryan - Last post by Bill B /bus
12K front axle. 20K rear axle for 32K total. Same as the 4108.

Bill

 68 
 on: February 08, 2016, 12:54:41 PM 
Started by kjurkic - Last post by kyle4501
Engine swaps seldom come in under budget - always seems to be more to it than planned.

If you would take the money it would actually cost to do an engine swap & put it in the series 50, you will have a very healthy & happy power train and likely have money left over.

 69 
 on: February 08, 2016, 12:08:38 PM 
Started by krank - Last post by luvrbus
On a DDEC the tach is wire 505 , the tach  feeds from cavity K-1 on the 30 way connector from the connector forward is the OEM responsibility,if K-1 has a plug in the cavity then it is not wired for a tachometer,remove the plug and install a DD connector with a wire to the front then you have power for a tach if it is a DDEC     

 70 
 on: February 08, 2016, 12:00:05 PM 
Started by David Anderson - Last post by RJ
If I could find someone on the east coast fairly local to install them I would probably buy a set for my 8V92.

Steve -

Mark Davia (Onelapper) might be able to help you, he's in CT.  Of course, there's always Luke & his crew at US Coach in NJ, too.

FWIW & HTH. . .

 Wink

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