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December 07, 2016, 08:04:37 PM *
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 61 
 on: December 06, 2016, 09:44:02 AM 
Started by DandM - Last post by Oonrahnjay
      Some "pop" rivets will seal the center hole when they are installed (after the center armature if pulled tight and broken off) -- some will NOT.  Be sure you're getting sealed rivets. 
      Here are a couple of suppliers that I've used.  They seem to have a good selection and prices seem about right but I haven't bought enough to know if they're genuinely a good source.  Both seem to answer questions and offer advice.
       www.FairwayFasteners.com
       http://bylerrivet.com/

HTH,  BH

 62 
 on: December 06, 2016, 09:37:16 AM 
Started by Scott & Heather - Last post by TomC
Simple-get rid of the twin gasoline powered Honda's (yes they're cheap to buy [compared to Diesel]) and install a Diesel. Powertech makes a nice compact 8kw with reverse cooling (pulling air through radiator and discharging it down). I had a truck driver friend that had one in his truck and when he sold the truck, the 8kw had over 23,000hrs on it. You would need 3 replacement Honda for that amount of hours. Good Luck, TomC

 63 
 on: December 06, 2016, 09:31:49 AM 
Started by Scott & Heather - Last post by TomC
I still have the stock, automatic leveling valves. I also have my own designed manual leveling system using the 3 points. I like not having to worry about leveling while driving, but able to level the bus in less than a minute. Also, have had a leveling valve go out (actually the connecting rod came loose) while driving. Simply threw the switch to manual, leveled it out and continued driving. Best of both worlds. Good Luck, TomC

 64 
 on: December 06, 2016, 09:29:40 AM 
Started by DandM - Last post by DandM
Hi everyone…
Mike here again with another question – Scenicrusier engine cradle
Been doing some work in Scenic 278 this year and wanted to take the oil pan off to checkout some dents I found in it while doing some other work underneath the rear of my bus. Found out that I couldn’t remove the oil pan as it was trapped by the engine cradle. And then looking further, I found several places where the cradle had been modified over the years. I didn’t like the oil pan being trapped and felt that the cradle mods were not done in a safe/satisfactory manner. So, I want to remove the engine/trans assembly and build a new, safer, stronger cradle. So, finally a question…
Scenicrusier engine cradle – does anyone have pictures of a cradle, especially showing the bulkhead connections? I do have a old shop manual, but the pics it has are somewhat blurred after numerous photocopier copies. And they don’t show the bulkhead end of a cradle. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Mike

 65 
 on: December 06, 2016, 09:19:46 AM 
Started by DandM - Last post by stanton
3M5200

 66 
 on: December 06, 2016, 09:13:21 AM 
Started by DandM - Last post by DandM
Hi everyone…
Only been a year and a half since last posting, but here goes…
Rivets – all my skylights are damaged and leaking. All my fixes and patches have given up the fight. I now have some sheet aluminum to cover the openings with. I don’t know the specific name of the rivets I want to use, so I will just call them POP rivets. I know I need to measure the thickness of the sheet aluminum and the thickness used on the bus to get the grip length necessary. But help me with this… I seem to remember something about a style of POP rivet and a spinning tool that was used after the rivet was set to smooth and seal the top side of the rivet to help prevent leaks thru the rivet. Does anyone know or remember the rivets, spinning tool I’m talking about? Maybe a link  to the appropriate supplier?
Thanks, Mike

 67 
 on: December 06, 2016, 08:44:37 AM 
Started by Scott & Heather - Last post by Jeff Willard
I'm not a Prevost or MCI guy and know nothing about them but...... the one question that should be answered is...... Do you think you're smarter than the guys that designed this system in the first place? If the answer is no, then fix it as it was designed. If you're trying to "fix" another problem, then design and build another system and leave what's there, as it was engineered.
I could probably hang this comment on the majority of threads on ALL of these boards. When I got started working on the Scenic's I quickly discovered that I spent far more time fixing and undoing other peoples "fixes" than actually repairing worn out parts and system.

 68 
 on: December 06, 2016, 08:30:44 AM 
Started by daddysgirl - Last post by daddysgirl
Craig you are correct that 2 of them are new, and the 4/0 is welded to the old washer.
When it stops raining, I'm going to find a way to make it sit straight on the new stud and tighten it down so I can check it before I add my other 2 new cables to it.
It will NOT touch the frame.

 69 
 on: December 06, 2016, 08:26:31 AM 
Started by Scott & Heather - Last post by daddysgirl
The Warrior is right as is Jon. IMO, Those height valves are important. The bags are important. I have a spare set of both, just in case.
And from personal experience when I was a child..(behind a friends bus that wrecked as a result) if you play too much with the bags, it strains the bolts and the rubber. You do NOT want one of them to fail going down the road.

Thanks for the conversions Richard!

 70 
 on: December 06, 2016, 08:17:05 AM 
Started by Timkar - Last post by daddysgirl
I"LL COOK!!!!
Ha...I can make you Cajun cuisine... with a side of 40w and grease that's forever under my nails?

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