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 61 
 on: Today at 08:43:37 AM 
Started by OneLapper - Last post by bevans6
Things usually don't happen from sitting, they happen when the engine stops, and then they just wait to jump out and bite you.  Cam gear nuts are supposed to have a locking plate that bolts on to the gear and fits over the nut, you can see them in this picture.  These pulleys don't have accessory drives bolted on to them.

That this point I would drop the oil and stick a magnet on a stick thingy in to fish around and see if I could find a few bits of whatever the gears ate.  Then I would probably drop the pan and fish out the parts to see if any of them were gear teeth looking bits.  Then I would probably take the back cover off to see how many gear teeth I lost.

Note to self - never try to spin a locked up engine, it's usually locked up for a good reason...

Brian

 62 
 on: Today at 08:41:38 AM 
Started by OneLapper - Last post by luvrbus
Stranger things have happen  Grin

 63 
 on: Today at 08:15:16 AM 
Started by OneLapper - Last post by mung
Really strange that it would happen from sitting though.

 64 
 on: Today at 08:12:06 AM 
Started by OneLapper - Last post by OneLapper
Update:  No solution yet but I've ruled out a couple of things and saw one very disturbing thing.....

It's not the blower.  I took the intake horn off and it looks fine.  
It's not the Vickers pump.  I determined that yesterday
It's not the transmission fluid pump.  The fiber disc is in perfect condition.  There are no pieces of metal in the bottom portion of the trans pump gear housing.  I used my finger to feel around and felt nothing.

I cranked the engine over with the fuel shut off.  The engine spun over like it always does, no binding at all.  I started the engine and it made the same crunching noise for about 15 to 20 seconds then it went away.  Here's the disturbing part, SPARKS shot out of the tranny pump hole!  I sh*t you not.  Sparks.

After the sparks shot out, the engine ran perfectly smooth.  I did not rev it up since the Vickers and tranny pump are out.  I used a good light to look into the blower housing and both pump housings.  I saw nothing out of the ordinary.

So..... something metal has fallen off and managed to get into the gears.  I'll pull the generator off and look at the bearings, as well as the compressor.  Right now the engine starts fine and sounds smooth.

One thing I noticed when I got this engine from the NYC Transit Authority.  The engine was a rebuild with a new factory block, but when I took the engine apart I noticed a cracked lock washer on the left cam gear.  It was cracked in half and the nut wasn't tight.  I removed the washer and torqued the nut down since the manual didn't show a lock washer on the cams.  I found the other half when I swapped rear engine covers.   After that I was super careful to inspect everything, as well as retorque every nut and bolt I could find.

Ugh!  I really don't want to pull the tranny and rear engine cover to find this problem!

 65 
 on: Today at 07:55:33 AM 
Started by OneLapper - Last post by bevans6
When you are building the engine you put a rag in the cam gears to lock it up, and then put around 400 ft lbs of torque on the crank pulley bolt.  It doesn't take much to lock an engine.  If it runs you know the gear train is still there, the cams and the blower are still spinning.  Be interesting to see what it turns out to be.

Brian

 66 
 on: Today at 07:48:43 AM 
Started by Geom - Last post by Geom
When cold starting, everytime you stop to let the starter rest, it is extremely hard for the starter to get the engine turning again compared to letting the starter lope the engine over-it takes very little power to keep the engine turning over compared to stopping it several times. But, on the other hand, continuous starter isn't good either because it doesn't give the compression heat time to soak in. I have found the best is 10 seconds crank, 10 seconds off, etc. Good Luck, TomC

Thanks Tom! That's great info. It's always been a bit of a guessing game, to me, as to how long to try and how long to wait between tries (to avoid overloading the starter). I'll keep this in mind on future starts.

 67 
 on: Today at 07:07:30 AM 
Started by OneLapper - Last post by luvrbus
Bearings going bad in a accessory drive will lock one down, any blower problems they break the blower drive for safety, the compressor is keyed to shear if it seizes, a rod that come loose in a compressor they don't always shear the key

 68 
 on: Today at 06:54:47 AM 
Started by OneLapper - Last post by fortyniner
Darn good thing you were not on the road somewhere far from home. It's hard to imagine an accessory creating the hard stop as you described it but something stuck in the blower lobes seems like it might. 

I'm following this thread with interest because if it can happen to Mark, who takes good care of his coach, it could happen to others as well. 

-Tom P.

 69 
 on: Today at 06:20:45 AM 
Started by Tikvah - Last post by luvrbus
All shops use 30w after a out of frame rebuild Ed and run it for 5000 miles and then pull a sample

 70 
 on: Today at 06:11:48 AM 
Started by Tikvah - Last post by Ed Hackenbruch
Even though i had 40 wt with me, the shop wanted to use 30wt for the break-in of my engine for warranty purposes. Told me that once i got back to Yuma i could change it to 40 wt if i wanted to even though it would have less than 2000 miles on it.

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