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 61 
 on: October 29, 2014, 07:30:25 PM 
Started by Scott Bennett - Last post by Dave5Cs
I use 40 weight!.... Roll Eyes

 62 
 on: October 29, 2014, 07:08:04 PM 
Started by TomNPat - Last post by oltrunt
Chessie 4905, with all due respect to your being a hero member and all, perhaps it would have been more helpful to suggest a rather large forum known as Skoolie.net in place of or at least along with the scrap yard.  If I have miss understood your intent, I apologize.

 63 
 on: October 29, 2014, 07:03:45 PM 
Started by Nel - Last post by solodon
The service manual for a 1989 MCI MC9 states 10W40 for the power steering fluid.
Don

 64 
 on: October 29, 2014, 06:14:57 PM 
Started by lou432 - Last post by lou432
Scott, Well maybe !!!!??? If the Bus 101 goes as I hope and a Bus Guru or 2 looks her over but tells me I need to win the lottery to get her right well I`ll segway and add-lib  into  how to let our buses go to the glue factory and still lead productive lives LOL!! With possible medications?
 Wonder if there`ll be any Doctors in the house??
 

 65 
 on: October 29, 2014, 06:11:32 PM 
Started by mung - Last post by gumpy
I want one for each side, and/or maybe also a third up front, to reduce the need to drag cables too far or under the bus  -  yes, I know that all inlets are live when one is plugged in, but an LED idiot light next to each inlet will remind me to not touch or lick it when connected.   I'd thought about 50A inlets, but my bus is definitely going to be a low-power-usage conversion, so I can't think why I would need all that power  -  heck, most of the time 15A will suffice for my meager needs!   (With a roof-full of solar panels I don't plan on often needing shore power.)

Take another sip of wine...................................... mmmmmmmm.......................

<Rant on>

Well, I'll just say this and leave it be  ....

I have some serious problems with your plan here. You are conceding that you will have multiple inlets around your bus which will have 125V hot prongs in them. You say it's ok because you know they're hot, but you don't account for the wayward child or curious busnut who just happens by while you are not home and wants to take a better look at your electrical inlet setup. You're brewing a recipe for disaster of both life (someone else's) and property (your's when you get sued). It's dangerous, and since you acknowledge that you know about it, it's irresponsible.

<Rant off>

If you're going to do that, at the very least, put shutoff switches on each inlet so you can turn off the unused ones!

Now addressing your comment regarding pulling cords...

I set up two long cords, about 50 ft each. One is a 30 amp cord (10 ga wire), and one is a 50 amp cord (6 ga wire). They each have a male 50A twist lock on one end and a female 50A twist lock on the other end. Then, I have two short cords, one about a foot long, and the other about 12 ft long. One has a 50A male plug on one end, and a 50A Female Twist Lock on the other end. The other has a 30A male and 50A female Twist Lock. I can connect both long cords together to reach up to about 100 feet away (limited to 30A on that setup due to wire size and distance). Normally, though, all I need is the short pigtail connected into one of the long cords to power the bus. Going under the bus is not a big deal. I just slip one end under. Normally, though, I just snake the cord around the front wheels and along the side and sling the cord under the bus along the side to keep it out of the way (snowblower, etc). This has worked very well for me. I've needed the extra length of both shore cords only a couple of times. Sometimes I luck out and the power pole is withing 10 feet of the inlet and I can just use the short cord.

I've never really had a need to have a power inlet on both sides of the bus.

I also have a buddy plug receptacle on the front corner of the bus, and outlets in each of the bays.



 66 
 on: October 29, 2014, 06:11:31 PM 
Started by Nel - Last post by HB of CJ
Yep; many factors involved.  Might not even be legal where you live to go to a smaller wheel ... if you have straight manual steering ... or power assist steering.  The big OEM steering wheel was selected for safety and human engineering reasons.

Full integral power steering came about probably because of safety concerns and the increased employment of weaker, smaller drivers.  Such power steering became so reliable that larger wheels could be safely replaced with smaller ones.

It also depended upon the design philosophy of the designers.  My old Crown Supercoach ex school bus had a big wheel plus power assist steering.  Only when slow deep steering did the power assist help.  Going down the road, it was just manual steering.

It was designed that way so if the power assist steering failed the Bus Conversion ex school bus could be safely driven.  Maybe it was just a school bus thing.  Crown Coach also had full power steering options if the buyer wanted such.  HB of CJ (old coot)

 67 
 on: October 29, 2014, 06:07:10 PM 
Started by Lostranger - Last post by LuckyChow
Jim, this has been a wonderful read.  I didn't realize that you're still on vacation!  I need to make my vacations more like yours, LOL.  Glad you guys are having a good time.  Hope to see you all later next month or so.

 68 
 on: October 29, 2014, 05:42:04 PM 
Started by Nel - Last post by Nel
Thanks for the feed back Guys,I will check out VIP.  Gus I better recheck what fluid my pump takes Yiks!

Nelson

 69 
 on: October 29, 2014, 05:07:44 PM 
Started by TrentAiken - Last post by Dave5Cs
Before you start it up check all your fluids. If they are low check for leaks and if it was low why did it not shut down automatically. Tells us that your shutdowns are not working or hooked up? check those first. You also have one for the oil. It will be a round sensor with 2 screw on fittings for wires coming out of the top. Oil will be generally on a rail with some other things on it on a GM I don't know where the coolant one is, someone else might chime in on that.

 70 
 on: October 29, 2014, 04:20:10 PM 
Started by TrentAiken - Last post by gus
I just purchased this bus and it overheated on the first test run.  It hit about 250 before I noticed and shut it down.  A temp gun showed a little lower.  Turns out it did not have enough coolant though there had been some in the barrel (?).

Subsequent runs of 10 miles.  No signs of anything but I have not done any "testing" per say.

What should I look for?

Get a service manual. This is the only safe way to operate this bus, it, like most GMs, has a number of things very different than the offbrands:)

There are two air vents atop the engine that need to be used after a low coolant event.

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