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September 02, 2014, 12:20:24 PM *
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 on: September 01, 2014, 03:48:21 PM 
Started by mung - Last post by eagle19952
Gojo is a grease solvent, not good for rubber.

Really, after more than 100 windshields I would definitely use it again.YMMV.

 on: September 01, 2014, 03:37:16 PM 
Started by loveshack - Last post by bcbusman
There should be no problem mounting it upside down Wink

 on: September 01, 2014, 03:34:45 PM 
Started by bcbusman - Last post by bcbusman
I know the bus is 40ft and had 2 doors so now I have to go see if its 96 or 102"

 on: September 01, 2014, 03:29:34 PM 
Started by loveshack - Last post by Sean
Make? Model?

I have never seen an inverter, UL-listed for RV use, that did not specify mounting details in the installation instructions.  But without knowing what you have, it's impossible to answer your question accurately.

That said, in general, inverters need airflow when they are operating, from convection or otherwise, and thus mounting them to a compartment ceiling is contraindicated.


 on: September 01, 2014, 03:25:04 PM 
Started by grantgoold - Last post by chessie4905
   I'd just use the Sure-flo and keep it simple, like millions of campers and motor homes use. Install a switch near or in your convenience panel to shut it off when away from the coach in case a leak develops in a line somewhere. 3.3 gallons per minute is plenty. Install an accumulator tank to eliminate pulsations and pump run time. Available at Camping World as well as rv dealers.

 on: September 01, 2014, 03:20:01 PM 
Started by mung - Last post by chessie4905
   You don't install the lock strip till the windshield is totally in place.

 on: September 01, 2014, 03:10:35 PM 
Started by mung - Last post by mung

Now I am assuming that I should be putting both sides in before the locking strip right?  I think so but my helper was questioning it.  I  was going to try to get the other side in today but my helper was not available and the wife is afraid she would drop it.


 on: September 01, 2014, 02:54:58 PM 
Started by mung - Last post by gus
Ooon gives good advice, it is a tough job even with the correct tool. The strip is easy to stretch and then it slowly shrinks leaving a gap. So try not to stretch it and make the strip an inch or so too long, then wait a day or two to let it adjust before making the last cut.

Install the bottom strip first since the weight of the glass is on it - the top is easier

Use lots of dishwashing detergent since it is the mildest. Gojo is a grease solvent, not good for rubber.

 on: September 01, 2014, 02:47:14 PM 
Started by grantgoold - Last post by grantgoold
I am beginning the design of the water and waste system for the bus. The black tank system is straight forward and the grey will empty (by valve) into the black for better washout. Now, I am thinking about two different pumps for the fresh water.  I was thinking a new 12volt high volume flojet with accumulator tank (part #02090-118) and then on a separate line a 115 volt Shurflo park model (Shurflo Park Trailer Revolution RV Pump 3.3 GPM 115 V 4008-171-E65).  I am thinking when I am plugged into power I can run the 115 volt full-time and save the 12 volt for over the road?  Not sure I need the accumulator tank as both pumps suggest no real change in faucet pressure as stand alone pumps.

The high volume 12 volt puts out 4.5 gpm max flow rate at 10 psi and the 115 volt is 3.3 gpm at 55 psi.

What kind of problems do you see in this mixed system?



 on: September 01, 2014, 02:45:38 PM 
Started by loveshack - Last post by gus
This is a radius rod, keeps the axles from moving fore and aft - pretty important thing:)

Anyway, these bolts originally had safety wire to keep them from loosening since there is a lot of movement in the rubber bushings. The bushings fall apart, bolts fall out and the last bolt breaks from the strain.

You probably need a new bushing also. You will need to make a tool to insert the bushing.

Lots of discussions here on that subject. Been there:)

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