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 71 
 on: February 17, 2018, 03:07:36 PM 
Started by Gary Hatt - Publisher BCM - Last post by Gary Hatt - Publisher BCM
"Maybe Gary put them on backwards, and the kid put them back on the way he found them?Huh??😬"

With all the money Gary makes --bales of Benjamines, there is now way he personally would even have had time to do that so that clearly didn't happen.

Sorry, I was out flying in the BCM jet when you sent this.  What did you say?   Cheesy

 72 
 on: February 17, 2018, 03:00:38 PM 
Started by Dlsnow - Last post by Jeremy
My Neoplan Cityliner had a drop aisle which allowed head room while standing and you stepped up to the seating level.  If I did as Jeremy did, my head room would have been to limited. So I lowered the floor to the lowest point of the aisle ( 7 1/2" drop). Mine is a Colorado built Neoplan so it has American running gear so no problems there. It did have rust problems. The flooring was the only thing left front air bag down.

To be fair I would have had the same problem if I hadn't also raised the roof, and by co-incidence I raised the roof by exactly 7.5" - which is comparatively modest I think given that I know a lot of people that already have flat floors then raise their roofs by 10" or more.

I can see that on something like a Scenicruiser where keeping the classic look is all-important you'd be loath to raise the roof, and I also know that dropping the floor is not for the faint-hearted - I did briefly consider doing that on mine, but that IS a big fabrication job (far bigger than raising the roof), and kudos to anyone who has done it

Jeremy

 73 
 on: February 17, 2018, 02:34:51 PM 
Started by Gary Hatt - Publisher BCM - Last post by sledhead
I needed the same type but for over the mirror in the washroom and found some like these way way less heat and power usage but still 120 volt

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XZWD17S/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B06XZWD17S&pd_rd_wg=ZSopa&pd_rd_r=QK9JNR997REDJ1SWRBY0&pd_rd_w=i9ULH 

dave
 

 74 
 on: February 17, 2018, 02:23:06 PM 
Started by PNWorBUST72 - Last post by richard5933
We have both the factory OTR a/c and heat. Both work well. It does cost money each year to maintain them.

The ducting down the two sides of our bus are partially used to carry the heat/air throughout the bus. For areas where the original vents were covered with built-ins, bathroom, etc. the converter just joined 3" or 4" ducting to it and carried the air to where it is needed. For example, there is a duct running from the floor duct up and over the kitchen cabinets - it exits above the microwave. Other places they went below and the duct exits in the toe kick area.

Just be sure that you have enough surface area for your intake/exhaust to allow for adequate flow.

We also have three electric space heaters built into the cabinetry and a small baseboard heater in the bathroom for use when on pole or gennie. There is also an LP furnace which runs on 12v for times we have no pole and don't want to run the gennie. Whoever designed out coach wanted to be certain they were warm.

 75 
 on: February 17, 2018, 02:15:51 PM 
Started by PNWorBUST72 - Last post by richard5933
I'm not sure why this is a mess. Some manufacturers list their specs as amps, some as watts. Use the formula below however you need to make the comparison.

The formula is pretty straightforward.

     watts/volts=amps

Since most people rate their battery banks in available amp hours, for me doing the calculations in amps makes more sense.

I just looked at the Norcold site. For a brand new 7 cu ft. fridge it uses 0.4 amps on 120v and 3.2 amps on 12v. If you run an inverter to make the 120v you'd be using approximately 4 amps to run this fridge. The difference between the 3.2 and the 4 amps would mostly be the energy loss to the inverter itself. This is a very efficient fridge whether on AC or DC.

Compare that with a residential fridge and you will see why I lean towards this type of fridge. Let's say that you have a residential unit that uses 'only' 1-2 amps. That's still 2 to 4 times the power consumption of the RV model.

If someone wants to make this comparison using watts instead of amps, the formula above can make that easy. Regardless, the end result will be the same.

All that said, if someone wants or needs the larger residential fridge and has the ability to make it work for them, then that's what they should do. I'm only stating what works for me, and that's the smaller more efficient unit.

 76 
 on: February 17, 2018, 02:11:46 PM 
Started by PNWorBUST72 - Last post by buswarrior
Same as a forced air HVAC in a house, you need ducting to direct the air where you need it.

Some busnuts have modified and re-designed their duct work, but you need to be prepared to deal with the consequences of the lost distribution.

A full set of manuals has all the pictures and schematics.

As for the AC, if you aren't an AC tech, there's little we can do on here to teach you. Check and see if it blows cold, and that the compressor keeps engaged.

There are precious few busnuts with coach AC, it co$t$ and co$t$ and co$t$...

Happy coaching!
Buswarrior

 77 
 on: February 17, 2018, 01:52:23 PM 
Started by Dlsnow - Last post by Geoff
When I lived in the SF Bay Area, I would take occasional trips in my RTS to Reno.  There are quite a few curves on I-80, and I would watch the gambling tour buses leaning out on the curves so much it would scare me to watch.  My RTS with IFS and a low center of gravity didn't lean at all and would outrun the Charter buses unless they had an 8V92TA (I had 350HP, they had 330HP in the days of 6V92's).  The RTS easily out did a 4106, so it was the new "sport car of buses" 20-30 years ago, maybe still.  I have a friend with 35' RTS and an 8V71TA @ 375Hp and 4.11 gears (I also have 4.11 gears).  20,000+ RTS buses were built and there are lots of parts available. No computer bus for me so my RTS is for life then my son gets it.

 78 
 on: February 17, 2018, 01:51:38 PM 
Started by PNWorBUST72 - Last post by buswarrior
Yes, the seat tracks are strong.

Ask anyone who has tried to remove them...

As noted, high strength fasteners and get on with it.
If you get one of the industrial fastener catalogues, you might find an exact matching fastener to fit in the track, that would make a sweet install.

How is all the rest of the coach interior fastened from movement? There are coaches out there that a few wood screws and friction is all that keeps the bedroom from joining the driver's seat....

Happy coaching!
Buswarrior

 79 
 on: February 17, 2018, 01:50:34 PM 
Started by Dlsnow - Last post by Lee Bradley
My Neoplan Cityliner had a drop aisle which allowed head room while standing and you stepped up to the seating level.  If I did as Jeremy did, my head room would have been to limited. So I lowered the floor to the lowest point of the aisle ( 7 1/2" drop). Mine is a Colorado built Neoplan so it has American running gear so no problems there. It did have rust problems. The flooring was the only thing left front air bag down.

 80 
 on: February 17, 2018, 01:39:44 PM 
Started by PNWorBUST72 - Last post by buswarrior
This thread is a mess.

The reason to use watts in a discussion like this, is so we are comparing properly.

So, a busnut might say "my DC refrigerator uses 450 watts when it is running flat out"

Another might say "my dollar store bar fridge uses 500 watts when running and using a kill-o-watt device, it uses 4 kwh a day averaged over a 3 day test, door closed."

Another busnut with engineering knowledge and some fancy test tools will chime in with "that new pure sine wave inverter I got off ebay that everyone thought was crap, turns out it runs at 94% efficieny!"

There is supposed to be a difference between a moderated board and Facebook...?

Happy coaching!
Buswarrior

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