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Having both a non slide and now a slide, I look at it like a spare tire, you only need it when you need it, the rest of the time it is just more junk to pay for and carry around, BUT when you need it, you forget all about the cost .
Dave M

Dave5C,
No recall of price, but were not that much,  I tend to not pay the price after going thru several hands, meaning I buy dirrect from MCD.  But the main event for me is being able to change the shade/blind while moving.  I travel 99% alone while the DW cat sits her babies.  Works for us both. 
Dave M

I didn't read that it was a 14 liter!!

Clifford, I know you said that you checked the turbo...  However, I would tug on the wastegate rod to see if it hasn't broken..  You could also have a seized gate/shaft (if it's seized in the open position it's dumping all the boost)..   A rod that's broken will blow the gate open.

Thanks for your advice.  At least it is a $900 job and not double!  I can wait to do that next year

Good luck on your trip sorry to hear of your loss also.I lost my Dad in December
Give us a shout if ypu come through Sacramento or up I-5 close to I-80
Dave5Cs from Galaxy S III

. My father passed away last month after a lengthy battle with cancer,

     Condolences on that loss, and hopes for comfort, healing, and understanding.  Many blessings to you.

I'll have to agree with most - A power sunroof... not the best of ideas. You can do it, but most likely it will leak depending on how it is done. - I am not a fan in the least of aftermarket installs on cars... much less on a bus.

My Scenic has non-moving sunroofs that are stock. I have 4 total. 1 on the lower level and 3 on the upper level. They are all cracked.    They are all the dual pane. Solid glass that does not move you will have better luck with. Moving sunroofs... your in for a big challenge. Heat is an issue as well... I highly recommend adding tint to them.

They sunroof seals on my scenic do not leak, but the cracks in the glass do. Some replace the glass with a vent with a fan while others panel over them to not have to deal with the headache all together.



Back to your original question though, I have seen my share of car sunroofs leak after time. Sun and weather take their toll.

The piece about how intricate car sunroofs are is correct. I am currently replacing THE ENTIRE roof on my 2000 Ford Explorer that Had a sunroof and I wanted to retain that. (A tree fell on a portion of it and I wanted to try my hand at body work... its a fun learning experience   )
There are 4 drains on my explorer sunroof, one on each corner, not to mention the track and mechanical aspect of it. I have pictures if you would like to see just my roof replacement as an example.



I'm not here to tell you you can't. I myself am stubborn and will do something just despite what people say, but it will be a challenge. Your best bet if you really want the sun coming in is just a solid piece of glass or better yet, double pane.


If you really really really want to pursue this, my opinion of the best option would be to go to your local u-pull-it lot and find an automobile that has the same (or very very close to the same) Pitch and curve to the roof as yours. Then rip out the ceiling fabric to reveal the tracks, motor and gearing (along with the wiring), and drains that run down the pillars. Then cut AROUND the entire sunroof and track area and be sure to give yourself as much extra material as you can. cut everything even all the metal part of the roof that the tracks attach too and then some... basically the entire roof short of the pillars depending on vehicle.

Now I'll be honest, I'm a little naive as to what material the roof of your eagle is made of, but on my scenic it is all aluminum... so welding in steel onto the aluminum roof is NOT an option. You would have to rivet it in... and even then, you have aluminum and steel touching/rubbing rust and corrosion magnet!!... If you have a steel roof, well that makes it easier - weld the thing in... then you have the trouble of routing the drains lines, but at that point its the easier part. Just keep in mind the make, model, and year of the vehicle you got the sunroof(s) from so when you need replacement parts for seals, glass, motor, etc, you can stop by your local auto dealer and order them. Way cheaper than a whole custom job.... well it can be in some aspects.

It almost be easier to take a car that doesnt have a sunroof and use this method to add a sunroof by welding in a new roof from a junked version that did have one..... you get the idea.


If you decide to tackle this, start a build thread!! I for one want to see how you end up implementing this.

Take care!!


TJ
Scenicruiser PD4501-848

The TPS is a real possibility, but it should set a code, that doesn't mean it always does. Here's a wild guess, if you have a DDR or any other way to switch ratings try a different rating. Most ECMs have at least 2 ratings, 0 is the highest HP, 1 is slightly lower and so on. Anything that would normally cause that problem should set a code. Depending on the ECM program it can operate on a different set of parameters when on cruise control, an example is the 430/470 HP we see on some of the DDEC IV engines. It's a long shot but there could be a problem with the ECM program that's why there is no code. Switching to a different rating will use a different set of timing, pulse width, smoke control and desired boost tables that are stored in the ECM program for that rating. I'm doubtful if that will help, but it seems you checked the normal stuff. I'm guessing this is a DDEC V EGR engine.

I usually think of the most complicated thing and as you said it's most likely something simple we haven't thought of yet.   

Ken

If you get power on cruise ,it doesnt use the tps. no tps, no throttle, no fuel no power. Cheers Gerry