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October 17, 2017, 10:57:39 PM *
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 71 
 on: October 16, 2017, 09:32:31 PM 
Started by brianzero - Last post by Scott & Heather
That joint is supposed to pivot not be welded??? I'm missing something...


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 72 
 on: October 16, 2017, 09:02:21 PM 
Started by JT4SC - Last post by JT4SC
Hi Richard/ BW-

This will be a 12 volt house battery bank.   This was how it was when I bought the bus and my goal is just to make it better (balanced) and safe; neither was the case when I bought it.  I'm also trying to understand why the battery switch is there and if it should be modified to work within an overall more logical/correct system.  Of course I didn't know any of this because I'm coming from a place of knowing nothing about busses or conversions, so it's been a lot of learning.  I'm thankful for all your help!!!!

The way the battery switch is configured has also not been changed in any way since I bought it.  I remember Mike trying to explain it along with the rest of the bus but it was like drinking from a fire hose kind of information overload.  I'm laughing to myself as I write this because of how naive I was.  I was 28 going on 15.  Ugh!!

Bevans6 -

My bus system is 24 volt.  The bus batteries are 2 8D batteries in series. The house batteries are 12 volt.  

I've attached 2 pictures:
-  first picture is a close up of the solenoid located in the bus battery comparment, with the red wire on left of solenoid running from the bus battery compartment back to the house battery switch.  

- second picture is one I took a couple years ago when I tried to burn my bus down.  It shows the the solenoid with the red wire fried where it connects with the solenoid.  I've since added an in-line fuse.  The main reason I wanted to share this pic was to show how it is also connected to the Vanner (which I am still trying to understand).  

My understanding is the bus batteries help charge the house batteries but not the other way around.  
So far with your help I know I need to move the inverter positive cable to the switch and not have it directly connected to the battery bank.  However I don't know which port on the switch it should go, and if I need to move/remove any of the other cables which are currently connected to the switch.  If possible can you post a pic of how you have the back of your marine switch hooked up?

** note it wouldn't let me post the close-up pic of the solenoid because of the file size, I will try to reduce the size and post it.  

 73 
 on: October 16, 2017, 07:37:47 PM 
Started by brianzero - Last post by gumpy
Well, I guess I don't understand where the break was because I don't see any welds on the upper part where I thought you were referring. Looks like you welded the jamb nut to the threaded rod as well as to the lower female end.

Well, if it gets you home, that's the goal, and then you can address it properly. 

Good luck on the remainder of the trip.

 74 
 on: October 16, 2017, 06:39:36 PM 
Started by PP - Last post by luvrbus
LOL they are simple Will, the AD-9 are a little more complex

 75 
 on: October 16, 2017, 06:32:47 PM 
Started by PP - Last post by PP
Jeez, now I'm in the same class as a blind monkey  Grin Don F., the low temps are in the Cascades of central Oregon. It's been in the teens almost every night for several weeks now and barely reaches upper 40's during the day. They're expecting serious snow by this coming weekend. Now on the coast and 60 feels downright balmy. Thanks for all the advice. I'm leaning toward rebuilding my dryer since a blind monkey can do it. Just have to figure out which one I have and how many volts it uses  Huh
Maybe I can find another blind monkey and we can put our heads together  Grin
Will

 76 
 on: October 16, 2017, 05:55:27 PM 
Started by Scott & Heather - Last post by Lifes2short4nofun
Scott,

Both of my experiences running the Remco pumps and the traveling you are going to be doing you are going to have issues.  My transmissions started to have a little slippage and I had about 50k miles driven on the vehicles and about 15k towed. 

 77 
 on: October 16, 2017, 05:41:39 PM 
Started by brianzero - Last post by brianzero
Here are the welds. I welded that lower joint, because that forces that part of the linkage in the right orientation. Otherwise, because of that crack, that linkage ball can move and tension on the belt is lost. I know this is only a bandaid.

 78 
 on: October 16, 2017, 05:31:01 PM 
Started by brianzero - Last post by gumpy
I... so what could go wrong here?

Well, you just jinxed yourself!


I'd like to see a photo of your repair, if you can.

 79 
 on: October 16, 2017, 05:25:56 PM 
Started by brianzero - Last post by brianzero
I welded the lower ball, and the crack. It just needs to hold for the rest of my trip. The belt has the proper tension, so what could go wrong here?

 80 
 on: October 16, 2017, 05:17:40 PM 
Started by brianzero - Last post by gumpy
Hmm. OK. The manual shows 3 pieces in the diagram. Two are labeled; the Uniball End - Female and Uniball End - Male, and shows a nut between the two. Maybe that piece is the threaded part of the female end. Interesting that it would break right there.

Well, anyway, glad you got it figured out and got a new belt on.

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