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 on: July 02, 2015, 10:46:38 PM 
Started by Darkspeed - Last post by Darkspeed
I started the floor lowering project > http://www.busconversions.com/bbs/index.php?topic=24673.msg325547#msg325547

My plan was to add a number of inches of insulation in the shell but this would result in an uncomfortably low ceiling and I did not want to raise the roof of the bus so I decided to lower the floor 8".

I know I am sacrificing some lower bay storage but it is the best solution for my use of the bus.

I am going to fabricate a new firewall. The original engine compartment firewall had a number of cracks , welds, and other repairs.

When I started stripping paint on the firewall I found a large number of bolt heads and rivet heads that were held on by nothing more than the paint.

Most of these were hidden stress failures and I am really glad I found them!

 on: July 02, 2015, 09:39:11 PM 
Started by eagle19952 - Last post by digesterman
97 north out of weed headed to K Falls?

 on: July 02, 2015, 09:30:07 PM 
Started by eagle19952 - Last post by TomC
Those are sissy engines. This is the real Cummins 220 with twin sticks, no power steering, no A/C-when truck drivers were real professionals. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PrWeAHdz80s Good Luck, TomC

 on: July 02, 2015, 09:13:37 PM 
Started by LuckyChow - Last post by krank
If you are running electric brakes and do not want to go thru the effort of running a control wire from your brake controller to the receptacle at the back of the bus ....

A tad pricey but seems easy enough (kinda like a tax return form).

 on: July 02, 2015, 09:13:17 PM 
Started by daddyoften - Last post by TomC
Just weighing your bus tells how much metal is in it. When I got my bus, (transit) it was already stripped of seats. After I completely stripped it out, I weighed it-28,000lbs. That alone is more then many sticks and staples motorhomes with multiple slide outs. When I was done, with everything in it, tanks full and my wife and I also in it, the bus now weighed 31,000lbs. Considering the bus has a GVW (Gross Vehicle Weight) rating of 36,000lbs, I'm 5,000lbs shy of the chassis capacity. I'd like to see a sticks and staples motorhome built like that!
My truck is no different. Bare truck chassis with just the cab was 18,000lbs. The 32ft box made with 1.5" square tubing with 1/8" walls on 16" centers welded with 1" plywood floor and a 1" plywood upper floor also on 16" centers weighed right at 10,000lbs. Ironic that the truck weighs the same as the bus at starting time. Good Luck, TomC

 on: July 02, 2015, 08:50:23 PM 
Started by LuckyChow - Last post by TomC
On my AMGeneral transit, I have the heavy rubber bumpers. I drilled a hole through the rubber, so the plug would not hang down and scrape. I used a 5 prong round plug since I have running, left turn, right turn, brake, ground. I also use two sets of LED magnetic lights. It only takes an extra 5 minutes to use these lights and because they are LED, are very bright. Good Luck, TomC

 on: July 02, 2015, 08:35:03 PM 
Started by LuckyChow - Last post by LuckyChow
I finally got the receiver hitch installed on my bus last week.  I need to install a connector to plug in lights for a trailer, platform hitch hauler, or towed vehicle.  I'm not sure what to go with these days, as there seems to be many more choices now than it was 15 years ago.  There are 6 blades, 7 blades,  6 pins, 7 pins, flats, combination units etc.  If anybody has a recommendation they really like, I'd appreciate a point in the right direction.  I'd like to find one that has a built in mounting flange so it can be mounted firmly somewhere under the bus/bumper.

 on: July 02, 2015, 07:37:26 PM 
Started by eb99603 - Last post by eb99603
Yeah, I ended up giving a big old {shrug} to the pile of pins on the back of the switches.

My concern now is what the DDEC expects.  Undecided

 on: July 02, 2015, 07:00:42 PM 
Started by eb99603 - Last post by belfert
I think it is very common for switches to have unused terminals.  The manufacturer can use the same type of switch for many different applications.  My Dina bus has many of the same basic switch, but they have different terminals connected depending on the application.

 on: July 02, 2015, 06:56:01 PM 
Started by daddyoften - Last post by belfert
I believe that Jayco and Winnebago are both considered to be reasonably good quality in the RV world.  I have been on tours at both Jayco and Winnebago.  In neither case was I very impressed with how the RVs are built.  It just seemed like the workers really didn't care about what they were building.  For many of the steps an extra 30 seconds would have a produced a better product.  I know a lot of RV workers are paid by the piece so they have no real incentive to do quality work.

RV factories seem third world compared to bus or automotive factories.  Very little automation and few jigs to ensure consistent work.  The only jigs I remember at Winnebago were for welding up the sidewalls of motorhomes.

I had a Jayco travel trailer and was reasonably happy with it.  I was not happy with serious assembly/design issues.  The couch came loose from the wall.  It turns out the 2x3 support the couch was supposed to be screwed to was an inch or so short.  Instead of grabbing a new board the worker spanned the gap with a bunch of wide staples.  I spent half a day opening the wall and fixing it myself as the dealer fix failed right away.  The fridge never cooled properly almost from day one.  I finally went up on the roof and took the fridge vent cap off.  Jayco had used fiberglass insulation in the walls of the vent, but a piece had fallen into the vent blocking all air flow.  They should have put something as simple as a piece of metal wire across the insulation so it wouldn't fall in.

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