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 81 
 on: July 27, 2016, 08:43:08 PM 
Started by jjb - Last post by jjb
Give us some idea on how it sounds when it starts to stumble after warming up

it sounds fine they it sounds like its going to stall and it does or it will continue running normal but the tach goes to 0 which I would assume is because its idling too low to register.

When I hit the high idle switch it stumbles for a bit like its got air in the fuel but after a few minutes at high idle it seems to run fine.

I think I really need to make sure that orifice is in place and replace all of the fuel lines and filters and see what it does.


The other thing I forgot to mention is that the jake brake doesn't seem to work as good as it should. It seems like its on low all of the time. It has 24-28 volts like its supposed to.

 82 
 on: July 27, 2016, 08:37:03 PM 
Started by Geoff - Last post by luvrbus
Some of the internet calculators you can enter the ratios of the transmission,rear gear with the speed and rpm and it will tell you the diameter and rpms of the tire neat huh 

 83 
 on: July 27, 2016, 08:22:47 PM 
Started by biff - Last post by luvrbus
TomC I am not trying to give you a hard time but LifeLine has changed the way to install their batteries they now want a space around each battery and install in a well vented area and it says on my instruction sheet do not install in a confined area like living quarters you can read it on their web site,they changed the whole ball game at the end of 2015     

 84 
 on: July 27, 2016, 08:21:00 PM 
Started by Dlsnow - Last post by DEMOMAN


MCI didn't switch to using 12vdc headlights until MC-9s, with a weird wiring set-up that actually works well, when folk take the time to thoroughly understand it.



My 1978 MCI 8 has 12v but mine is a late 8 with some weird combinations.  Probably between 8 and 9.  I can't keep them from burning out too!  HAHA

FWIW

 85 
 on: July 27, 2016, 08:12:39 PM 
Started by jjb - Last post by luvrbus
Give us some idea on how it sounds when it starts to stumble after warming up

 86 
 on: July 27, 2016, 08:09:44 PM 
Started by biff - Last post by TomC
Yes AGM batteries are 2-3 times more expensive then wet batteries. And yes it is easy to check the water in the wet batteries 4 times a year-less if you use Thermoil. But AGM batteries have much more than that to offer. Since they are sealed, (as long as you don't over charge them) they don't out gas-which means your terminals will never get dirty-I didn't clean mine in the 7 years. Because they don't outgas, you can mount them inside. You can also mount them in any position-up, laying on their side-just not upside down. And because the internal workings of the AGM allow for charging twice as fast as wet batteries. Personally-they are worth the extra money. Good Luck, TomC

 87 
 on: July 27, 2016, 08:01:50 PM 
Started by jjb - Last post by jjb
If I was to suss out that diagram, I would say fuel comes out of the filter and into the rails on the head via thingies 19 and 4, and the return comes out of each head and is tied together at thing 13, so thing 14 is a real good bet.  I take it the engine still isn't running well?

Brian

I looked up the part number for 14 "8924182 ELBOW, 5/16"-90 DEG. TUBE; 1/4" PIPE (.080" REST.) (W/SEALANT)"

I haven't had time to do anything with it. Its runs fine until it gets to operating temp  Smiley.


 88 
 on: July 27, 2016, 08:01:01 PM 
Started by Geoff - Last post by TomC
One of the fun things I used to do figuring proper gearing, tire size, transmission for trucks. All done with a calculator.



 89 
 on: July 27, 2016, 07:35:14 PM 
Started by ScharpeStGuy - Last post by luvrbus
Samples do not look good if that is the 6V92 it probably has gotten hot,the shut down is no biggie me I would pass unless you can make a super deal.I would offer $15,000.00 tops because it is going to need engine work soon.JMO show him the sample report they don't lie the copper is coming from the bearing more than likely caused by the antifreeze in the oil.That was the best $350.00 you spent in a long time 
  

 90 
 on: July 27, 2016, 07:09:28 PM 
Started by Dlsnow - Last post by RJ
OEM MC-7 headlights were 24vdc.

MCI didn't switch to using 12vdc headlights until MC-9s, with a weird wiring set-up that actually works well, when folk take the time to thoroughly understand it.

IIRC, there's a technical bulletin on MCI's website for converting 24 to 12 operation, including the wiring schematics.  Or give MCI Tech Support a call and ask them to send you a copy.

FWIW & HTH. . .

 Wink

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