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 on: February 18, 2018, 11:39:08 AM 
Started by PNWorBUST72 - Last post by eagle19952
why ?
they make 24v inverters
and 24v LED's
12v makes no sense to me.

 on: February 18, 2018, 11:34:11 AM 
Started by Gary Hatt - Publisher BCM - Last post by eagle19952
It was 2217 back in August.

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is what i see.

 on: February 18, 2018, 11:31:40 AM 
Started by Jerry W Campbell - Last post by eagle19952

 on: February 18, 2018, 11:15:39 AM 
Started by CrabbyMilton - Last post by lostagain
I drive new J4500s with the Volvo and Allison B500 5th generation (I think). Really nice and smooth, and preferred over other transmissions.


 on: February 18, 2018, 11:10:00 AM 
Started by CrabbyMilton - Last post by CrabbyMilton
Yesterday, I went to the Chicago Auto Show(from Milwaukee). I rode on a brand new MCI J4500(charter) that only had 16000 miles.
While I have been on many J4500's before, the very pleasant surprise for me was that this one actually has the ALLISON B500.
Several operators around here have a bunch of ASTRONIC trannys in their J4500's and PREVOST H3-45's plus that VOLVO "crunch and jerk" model as well which started showing up back in the early to mid '00's. Nice to ride on a nice smooth shifting bus again. The driver said they were going back to ALLISON and obviously, many others are since MCI doesn't even offer ASTRONIC anymore if you check out their brochure.
I had a sneaky feeling that the ASTRONIC wouldn't stay popular back then. Some drivers like them but most prefer ALLISON.
As for the show itself, there were 3 buses in there. 2 BLUEBIRD ALL AMERICAN blood mobiles and 1963 GM NEW LOOK transit used by GOOSE ISLAND BEER company for their mobile "taps". I didn't take the camera but the bus served on the west coast someplace.
You can find it on TWITTER.

 on: February 18, 2018, 11:09:11 AM 
Started by Gary Hatt - Publisher BCM - Last post by Gary Hatt - Publisher BCM
Thanks, much better now. I have paper copies of most issues between Apr 1992 and Dec 2009, this really helps in locating pertinent articles. It's also sad to see the names of people that are no longer with us, or not active now. Is Dave Galey still with us, for instance?

Dave is still around but is not able to get out much from what I understand.  He was a huge contributor to Bus Conversion Magazine and we have not found anyone like him since that has that much knowledge about buses and is willing to share it like he die.

 on: February 18, 2018, 11:06:51 AM 
Started by Jerry W Campbell - Last post by Brassman
Great video of a kool bus. Crowns forever!

 on: February 18, 2018, 10:42:51 AM 
Started by PNWorBUST72 - Last post by gumpy
Current owner says the ac compressor /clutch engages but he can't tell if the air is cold or its just the weather, its been in the 50's here i the AM.  I am going to assume at VERY least its not working properly...

Are the 8 returns on the side of the bus for delivering heated/cooled air to the inside of the bus?  What are the ramp returns for and do people keep thoise just cover the floor with plywood?  Is there a reason why the front returns are actual sheet metal versus the back being like a fabric tubing?

If the clutch engages, then it has some freon in it.

The returns along the sides (two in front, two in back) are just that. Return air for the heat/A/C. They simply connect into the central return air tunnel.  There are two supply holes, also. They are the large holes which are basically above the battery compartment and are adjacent to the top of the ramp inside. Those are connected to the heater blowers. If you open the heater blower compartment in the front bay, you'll see the ductwork on either side of the blowers. This is the only place where the heater air comes into the coach. All the rest of the holes are the returns. I think one is for fresh air from outside. Driver's side front.

 on: February 18, 2018, 10:41:47 AM 
Started by PNWorBUST72 - Last post by PNWorBUST72
Great reply Richard, thanks.

So how does the equalizer get wired in?

AC Side - Shore Power/Generator > Transfer Switch > 50amp Breaker Box > Inverter > Battery Charger > Coach Side Battery Bank
DC Side Chassis - 24v Alternator > 24v Battery Bank >24v Loads
DC Side Coach - Inverter from AC Side > 12v Fuse Boxes > 12v Loads

Does multiple alternators of the same voltage charge the batteries faster or more fully?  I could add a 12v alternator to change just the 12v Coach Side?

 on: February 18, 2018, 10:25:53 AM 
Started by PNWorBUST72 - Last post by richard5933
Ok, not trying to get into a amp  vs watts argument because I doubt I understand a 1/3 of it...

We want to run AC(thinking roof mounts but the noise is a question), maybe 2 maxxfans (at least one for the shower/bathroom area), 2 27in-ish TV's, propane tankless hot water heater, propane RV oven, smaller fridge(7-10cu ft - most likely residential), assorted lighting of course, USB charge ports, maybe a Playstation 4.

Can I run the 24v starter batteries like normal and just build out the rest of the coach side as a standard RV, 12v and 110v?  As long as I dont try to use the 24v alternator to charge my 12v batteries OR dont draw anything from the 24v side, I can built them as completely separate systems no? 

I only need an isolator if I plan on drawing from both sides of the system correct?

You can certainly have them as two totally separate systems. The problem would be trying to figure out how to charge the batteries while on the road, since you'd only be able to charge while plugged in or while running the generator. If you pulled up anchor in the morning after drawing down your batteries overnight, you'd arrive at your next campsite at the end of the day with uncharged house batteries unless you ran your gennie while driving.

Couple of quite definitions:

An equalizer is used to pull 12v from a 24v battery bank. It pulls from both batteries evenly so you don't end up with one being overcharged and one being undercharged. It is possible to just tap into the point between the two 12v batteries in a 24v battery bank to get 12v without an equalizer, but this will quickly destroy your batteries.

An isolator is different. This is used to charge two separate battery banks from one charging source while keeping the two sources isolated from one another. They do this with diodes usually. For example, if you had a 12v start system and a 12v house system you could use the engine's alternator to charge both battery banks while driving. The isolator is there to keep the house system from drawing down the start batteries while camping. It basically make for a one-way pathway from the charging source to the batteries. On our 4106 we used a solenoid instead of an isolator with a manual switch to bridge both the house batteries and start batteries together while driving down the road. This allowed us to use the bus engine's alternator to charge the house batteries. When we shut down the engine we flipped the switch and disconnected the two battery banks from each other. The isolator allows them to stay physically connected but provides an electronic barrier instead.

If you went with a 24v house system (using a bank of deep cycle batteries separate from your start batteries) then you can easily charge them while on the road using the bus alternator by using an isolator or a solenoid. If you did this and had a 24v house system, then you would need to use an equalizer or 24v-to-12v converter to pull 12v for those appliances which required 12v. Probably a converter would provide enough 12v current in your case.

We went with a system like you're describing (totally separate 24v start and 12v house systems), and to charge the house batteries while on the road I'm installing a 24v-to-12v battery-to-battery charger. It will charge the house batteries at 70 amps using a 3-stage charge just like any other plug-in charger. It only charges while the alternator is operating on the bus engine so it shouldn't draw down our start batteries, plus we're adding the remote on/off switch to be certain. This battery-to-battery charger is made by Sterling. We also have a Progressive Dynamics 70-amp 120v plug-in charger for when we have power from pole or gennie. I know that our system has some duplication, but it works for us.

It looks like you'll have mainly a 120v load, so running a 24v inverter may make more sense as they can be more efficient and require lighter gauge wiring. That would be a decision you'll have to make. The remaining 12v appliances you plan to run are not high-draw items, so they could probably run from a 24v-to-12v converter.

I'm sure that others will offer other options which are equally valid. The problem is always trying to decide which will work best for you.

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