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 on: February 25, 2015, 01:46:16 PM 
Started by Larry B - Last post by OneLapper
If the crank is true, and the pistons are new, and rings are new, I think the difference is in the connecting rod.

The "shim" the note mentioned is most likely a head gasket shim...... because the piston hit the head for the last owner.  If you have an extra engine you can measure all the connecting rods and see what the lengths are.

BTW, are you using an OEM head gasket?

 on: February 25, 2015, 01:05:03 PM 
Started by hdemetrious - Last post by hdemetrious
Motor is a 8v71
Radiator area has barely any rust
Electric panel very neat, no rust
Spare tire area has rust in coners on the platform that holds the tire and the bumper lift brackets are rusty
Windshield rubber seals worn, interior dash surface has rust, front framing has no rust
Engine cradle solid
Floor steel braces that connects perpindicular to luggage bay tops have rust where they connect to the luggage bay hinge area
I plan to take a section of interior wall out and see what's behind it.

 on: February 25, 2015, 11:31:04 AM 
Started by daddyoften - Last post by chessie4905
   Take a look at some 1946 and newer ACFBrill IC-41's; they had a door back from the front. I had one and liked it's placement, although it wasn't as far back as you desire.


 on: February 25, 2015, 11:01:40 AM 
Started by daddyoften - Last post by daddyoften
Thanks for all the reply's and ideas.  I am just in the designing stage and the floor plan works out awesome with a mid door.  Our bus is no longer a buffalo and the hump has been raised not with a cap but the PO actually took the room and raised it up to match the rest of the roof line and he built up the stadium seating floor to be level as well, I'm going to redo what he did because I don't like how it did it but I like the outcome.  With this much higher headroom in the front I want to put a drop down bunk bed and don't like that will be in the way to get out of the bus.  Also after some much thought out thinking we came up with a new design for the whole lay out of the front of the bus. 
Here's my plan. Close off the front door, Level the floor between the driver and the old door so there are no longer steps except to get up to the higher floor of the rest of the bus.  Then move the passenger seat down to the same level as the driver.  Up on the main level we will have two "L" shaped couches with the L towards the front of the bus with a small gap towards the front with a removable piece to make the couches a big "U" shape when parked.  With the only time we need to get to the driving/passenger area would be to drive somewhere.  With the mid ship door there is no need for a lot of traffic to the front of the bus anymore.  There would also be a removable table to put in the middle of the "U" couch for eating and game playing for my large family. 
That's my latest toughts anyways.  Grin

 on: February 25, 2015, 10:35:18 AM 
Started by Larry B - Last post by Larry B
thanks again  LARRY
   A lot of the things you mention I have done. The crank I held in lathe and steady rest and with dial indicator measured for bent crank. Lathe in neutral and turn chuck by hand. I had 0.001 on center bearing - book said up to 0.002 was ok. The crank has new bearings and they where within spec. by book. this includes con rod bearings. I have new pistons (.25 metric over- about.010") rings, wrist pins and wrist pin bushings. Made a piece on lathe to push out old wrist pin bushings and install new. These felt really good after install. The machine shop did a real good job of boring the block and touch up valves and seats ($150.00)  The new rings where right in middle of book spec when measured in block bore. I do not own a depth gauge. To measure piston above block- set a piece of key stock on top of block , zeroed dial indictor and turned pistons through TDC. and watch dial Front .022 , rear.0235 - (different by .0015). I just asumed that to be a reasonable amount of diff.Huh  Right now I do not know how I could measure bottom dead center with a dial indicator only, to compair con rod lenghths. The rods I am using are out of the APU unit. This engine was still running(sort off- just plain wore out) but did not have a melt down like the other when i found. This morning at  shop having a coffee and wrinkling my forehead while looking at this engine I found a small piece of paper in plastic bag of gasket kit that mentions a shim for head gasket-- what are they talking about?? The book says piston to head clearance should be. 0197 to .0279-- The timing on this engine is gears with marks. I have checked a couple times It is on punch marks.   With engine together  crank, bearing, pistons with rings installed and valve cam and injector cam in place youcan easyily rotate and can not feel any tight or loose spots. Going to go back to shop and maybe switch pistons per hole and check heights again. I have a lot of double parts-- cranks,cams, gears, injectors and inj. pump-- so i can do a lot  of part switching---I think something is wrong with this head to piston clearance.   When I had cardboard between piston and head I could turn past TDC both holes,just tight on rear hole. 
    Thanks again  for help    Larry B   

 on: February 25, 2015, 10:02:02 AM 
Started by hdemetrious - Last post by luvrbus
7087 is a 8v71 the 8v92 would read 8087 fwiw that engine is a 8v71 N/A look on the front camshaft pulley it will have 8V71 embossed on the pulley

 on: February 25, 2015, 09:22:51 AM 
Started by Zephod - Last post by Oonrahnjay
 ... back voltage is not a problem on mechanical switches other than a little arcing when the switch is opened. When solid state switching was introduced, these high reverse voltage created problems as the solid state systems are very voltage sensitive. So a diode has added to drain the reverse voltage to ground and not back to the switch. ...  

    OK, that's the "back story".  Diodes probably not needed (but likely to be an advantage) for plain switches but probably needed to prevent damage for solid-state switching.  Thanks for the help - I learned something today and I like that.   BH

 on: February 25, 2015, 09:01:51 AM 
Started by hdemetrious - Last post by eagle19952
Thanks for the guidance everyone, keep it coming. I  believe the motor is 8v92.  Is it more favorable than an 8v71?
An 8v92 will run hotter,faster and use more fuel.

If those things are in your budget and comfort level then it is a better choice.

Remember that the v71 will do 72 mph on 97% of all interstates.

The up speeds on grades greater than 6% will be proportionately slower depending on tire size and weight.

 on: February 25, 2015, 08:47:26 AM 
Started by hdemetrious - Last post by hdemetrious
Thanks for the guidance everyone, keep it coming. I  believe the motor is 8v92.  Is it more favorable than an 8v71?

 on: February 25, 2015, 08:22:10 AM 
Started by hdemetrious - Last post by lvmci
Hi Hani, Rust bubbles under the paint on the rivets is a bad sign, it may have come from the inside, on MCIs always inspect the radiator box, most will rust there, extensive rust there means the fans have pulled in salt air, that means its had a lot of time near salt water, better for the fan box to pull in desert sand, where you would look at anything rubber, dry cracking or dry rot would mean fan belts and hoses and tires and any rubber knuckle in the steering may need to be replaced.  lower frame salt exposure, like from winter salted roads, shows up on MCIs most easily viewable on the bay door knuckles, they are made of soft steal and will rust first, this would lead you to look at what the others have mentioned. these are all simple signs of deeper rust issues. JCs and others, more extensive explanation should be taken to heart, and memorized if you don't have an experienced bus nut to go with you, if your able to bring that friend and he advises you it's best to walk away, when you fall in love with a bus, it may be real hard to break away from the one that catches your eyes, but there is a sexyer model winking at you around the block! Lvmci...

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