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 91 
 on: March 21, 2017, 06:11:26 PM 
Started by Zephod - Last post by Geoff
I guess the people with hydraulic and vacuum brake boosters​ are SOL.

--Geoff

 92 
 on: March 21, 2017, 05:58:26 PM 
Started by Billysurf - Last post by gg04
I always use a receiver on both ends, easier to launch boats or park trailers in tight spots. Someone should be able to post you a link to their hitch build.  Tdw

 93 
 on: March 21, 2017, 05:35:32 PM 
Started by Billysurf - Last post by PP
Best to mount it on the back.

Sounds like the voice of experience.... Grin

 94 
 on: March 21, 2017, 05:24:35 PM 
Started by Zephod - Last post by muldoonman
"The purchaser of this gem"

 Roll Eyes

 95 
 on: March 21, 2017, 05:23:59 PM 
Started by Billysurf - Last post by Jim Eh.
Best to mount it on the back.

 96 
 on: March 21, 2017, 05:23:13 PM 
Started by Zephod - Last post by Jim Eh.
The electric brake booster should be hooked up to the key switch so it only works with the key in the "on/run" position.  The horn should be hooked up to a permanent "on" hot connection.  The clicking is the horn relay switch.  I am guessing the horn isn't working.  So trace the wires.

--Geoff

Actually this is not quite correct. The electric brake booster should NOT be connected to a keyed power source. It should have constant power and be controlled by a self resetting breaker NOT a fuse. And it should be run on a 25+ amp breaker certainly not a 5 amp.

Given that it is possible for someone, lets say unknown reason, were to turn off the ignition thinking it throttle is stuck and turning the key off will save them, they would no longer have any power assist for their brake system.

It is possible the electric motor could be the cause of your current drain. There should be a pressure switch connection in the master cylinder area. You could try disconnecting that for a day or two to see if you batteries go dead.

If that does not show anything try disconnecting the horn circuit at the horn(s) and do the same test.

 97 
 on: March 21, 2017, 05:23:01 PM 
Started by thbunners - Last post by muldoonman
Thats probably going to steer you away from anything with a 2 stroke.

And 10k.

 98 
 on: March 21, 2017, 05:20:39 PM 
Started by thbunners - Last post by opus

My question: I want my new bus to be a very common model and a workhorse so i can pull into any town USA and find a mechanic and parts.


thanks

Thats probably going to steer you away from anything with a 2 stroke.

 99 
 on: March 21, 2017, 05:12:15 PM 
Started by Zephod - Last post by Zephod
This might be an entertaining project for somebody lol
https://florencesc.craigslist.org/grd/6051443228.html


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 100 
 on: March 21, 2017, 05:09:06 PM 
Started by thbunners - Last post by thbunners
I've owned three busses before. All converted and used for touring with my band. The current one is a 4106 and it's feeling old and hard to find parts and everyone has families now so I think it's time to move up to something newer and bigger.  probably 40 ft.,automatic trans. ready to pay 10k but not more.

My question: I want my new bus to be a very common model and a workhorse so i can pull into any town USA and find a mechanic and parts.

My first impression is that an MCI from the 90's is a good fit.  I would love to hear other opinions and ideas.

thanks

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