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Author Topic: Entry Steps Tile  (Read 4368 times)
Kwajdiver
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« on: November 06, 2008, 05:43:35 PM »

Busnuts,

Looking to make my entry/driver area a little better looking.  Thought I would start with the stairs and floor around the driver.  My question concerning laying tile on the steps.  I've notice that the stairs on my MCI-9, the vertical part, does not come straight down.  Shall I lay wood down, and even everything up, then lay the tile on that, or what   Huh

Thanks for the input,

Bill
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Auburndale, Florida
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V-6-92 Detroit, Allison 5 spd auto
Kwajalein Atoll, RMI
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« Reply #1 on: November 06, 2008, 06:23:31 PM »

Hi Bill
 I'am doing the same to my 9, I took the old rubber of and filled in with 2 layers of 5/8" plywood. The first layer fit in where the old rubber mat was, I glued and screwed it to the stainless. The second layer was a little bigger and went over the steps built in cove moulding on the side's and came out over the front, then to square up the riser I put a 1 1/16" strip of wood at the back of the tread and then covered with plywood, the riser is now square with tread. I started to cover it with the same laminate flooring that is in the kitchen and bath. So far it looks great and is very solid.

Jason
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Kwajdiver
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« Reply #2 on: November 06, 2008, 06:31:26 PM »

Jason,

That sort of what I was thinking.  Little surprized that you used 2 layers of 5/8... Do you have any photos.

Kwajdiverbill@yahoo.com

Bill
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Auburndale, Florida
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Kwajalein Atoll, RMI
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« Reply #3 on: November 06, 2008, 06:40:03 PM »

Bill
 I used 2 layers so the first layer built it up a little higher than the curved moulding on the old step then the second layer went out over to hit the walls of the stair well to make it square and eliminate the curved corners. I didn't get any pics of doing that but i will try and get some of the finished job.

Jason
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grantgoold
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« Reply #4 on: November 06, 2008, 07:10:16 PM »

I too would like to see the pictures. I am thinking about the same project in the next few weeks.

Thanks

Grant
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Grant Goold
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« Reply #5 on: November 06, 2008, 07:22:30 PM »

Well guys I'am trying to post pics but they are to big, and i cant get them small enough? If you can help let me Know.
Thanks Jason
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Kwajdiver
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« Reply #6 on: November 06, 2008, 07:31:45 PM »

Janson,

Just send them to my e-mail address, much easier...

Kwajdiverbill@yahoo.com

Thanks, Bill
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Auburndale, Florida
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Kwajalein Atoll, RMI
Dreamscape
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« Reply #7 on: November 06, 2008, 07:38:50 PM »

Jason,

Do you have MS OS? You can download Power toys and then all you would need to do is right click over the picture, box appears for resizing, click the size you want an bingo you're done. I use the small size for posting pictures, 640x480 screen. The download is free from MS.

HTH,

Paul
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jjrbus
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« Reply #8 on: November 06, 2008, 07:39:25 PM »

This was a gift left us by Richard, its free and very easy to use!!!

         http://www.resize2mail.com/


 I resize to 360X480 for posting    HTH Jim
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« Reply #9 on: November 06, 2008, 08:03:03 PM »

Here's a few pics, hope this helps. Jason
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JackConrad
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« Reply #10 on: November 07, 2008, 04:40:11 AM »

Our method was a little more aggressive.  We completely removed the stainless steel stepwell on our MC-8, reframed with 3/4" plywood.  We made 4 steps with 7" risers instead of the OEM 3 steps with 9" risers. The steps were then covered with ceramic tile and an oak bullnose was added with a section of rope lighting set into a dado groove on the bottom side of the bullnose.  Jack
« Last Edit: November 11, 2008, 03:39:38 PM by JackConrad » Logged

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« Reply #11 on: November 07, 2008, 11:14:17 AM »

Be very careful about placing tile on entry steps.

Any lack of traction could cause a person to slip and fall down
on the steps. I have already done a half-gainer stepping up
to the cherry flooring with wet feet.

Us people that are preoccupied trying to open or close the door
with our hands full are very clumsy....

Dave...
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« Reply #12 on: November 07, 2008, 12:09:06 PM »

I used my center entrance, the staris had been removed so I started with a clean slate. I was unsure about adhering tile to metal, plus the metal has flex, so tried silicone caulk, I also used it to grout the tile. I figured if it did not work it was only pulling and redoing 3 tiles, so what the heck. It worked well and has held up for several years.
« Last Edit: November 07, 2008, 12:14:23 PM by jjrbus » Logged

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Kwajdiver
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« Reply #13 on: November 08, 2008, 01:40:50 PM »

JJRBUS,

Love it. Grin

What kind of wood did you use?


I removed the old rubber mat today, and clean under it as best I could.  What a mess.

Bill
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« Reply #14 on: November 08, 2008, 03:55:08 PM »

Thanks Bill, its oak, The sidewalls are 3/4 oak plywood and the drawer frames are pine.
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« Reply #15 on: November 08, 2008, 04:19:31 PM »

I started to remove the rubber on my steps and found out it is nearly impossible to remove without some serious tools.  The rubber is actually attached to sheet metal and the whole thing needs to come up.  I eventually gave up on the entry steps because I spent my time rebuilding most of the interior this summer.

My plan is cover the steps in aluminum tread plate and then paint the aluminum with an industrial epoxy coating.  My buddy works in a large machine shop and he can get most of the aluminum for little or nothing.  The hardest part will be getting everything cut to fit.  I figure this will make it easy to sweep out all the dust and dirt that gets tracked in.

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Brian Elfert - 1995 Dina Viaggio 1000 Series 60/B500 - 75% done but usable - Minneapolis, MN
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« Reply #16 on: November 09, 2008, 02:37:31 PM »

Diamond plate is slick as the proverbial cat's @$# when wet; sandblasting will help. Simply make a cardboard pattern for each tread to use to cut the plate.
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« Reply #17 on: November 09, 2008, 04:24:02 PM »

Bill
  I have an MCI 8 ,Two  years ago I removed the old covering of the steps ,cleaned out the debris and silicone 12" x12" ceramic cut down floor tile, I also used silicone as grout. This has worked well for us (added note we are not what you would skinny mini!! Roll Eyes Roll Eyes
    Dwayne
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Kwajdiver
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« Reply #18 on: November 09, 2008, 05:32:11 PM »

Dwayne,

Hummmmm, I like that, will play with that thought tomorrow.  That would be a neat way to fill the gap that is now left open when I removed the rubber and backing.

Thanks,

Bill
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Auburndale, Florida
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Kwajdiver
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« Reply #19 on: November 11, 2008, 08:42:59 PM »

I'm about to anchor down the base boards on the steps. Is there anything I need to know about.  Wires, air, brake lines or anything else that I don't care to put a screw through   Huh

Bill
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« Reply #20 on: November 12, 2008, 04:40:44 AM »

I'm about to anchor down the base boards on the steps. Is there anything I need to know about.  Wires, air, brake lines or anything else that I don't care to put a screw through   Huh
Bill

Bill,
  I can't remember anything under the OEM steps on our MC-8, but I have slept since then and have not had my morning coffee yet. I suggest you scoot into the spare tire compartment with a flashlight and take a quick look at the bottom of the sterps. I do recall a couple air lines fastened to the vertical bulkhead that is the rear wall of the stepwell.  Jack
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« Reply #21 on: November 12, 2008, 07:34:01 AM »

At jacks rally last year there was a bus with a diamond plate interior, really cool idea, I liked it and I'm kinda a wood guy at heart, it was kinda like walking into a really big tool box lol. Everything in it was diamond plate, walls, floor, ceiling, the whole thing, instead of joinery, it was weldery lol.  Not sure where this fits into the topic maybe my meds are wearing off lol.
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Kwajdiver
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« Reply #22 on: November 12, 2008, 01:58:38 PM »

Cody,

I recall seeing that bus, it was really nice and neat, like a large tool box.  A man's bus,,,,,  Of course that has nothing to do with what I'm doing, but never the less, it's always nice hearing from you.....LOL

Bill
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Auburndale, Florida
MCI-9
V-6-92 Detroit, Allison 5 spd auto
Kwajalein Atoll, RMI
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