Bus Conversions dot Com Bulletin Board
October 01, 2014, 07:22:26 PM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: If your computer is lost, damaged, or stolen, we will replace all of your E-Mags for free.
   Home   Help Forum Rules Search Calendar Login Register BCM Home Page Contact BCM  
Pages: [1] 2  All   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: Dash a/c on mci 9  (Read 3708 times)
platinum mci
Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 58



WWW

Ignore
« on: November 08, 2008, 09:40:41 AM »

Is there a way to remove the original bus air and heat and just keep the drivers air and heat, and then if we need extra a/c i could just turn on the house a/c, while traveling.
Logged
Hartley
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1217





Ignore
« Reply #1 on: November 08, 2008, 12:01:49 PM »

The Dash air and heat onthe MC9 are separate units that are housed in the dashboard.

You would normally remove the over the road heat and air systems and just cap off the lines that feed the OTR heat. That is because the drivers heat and defroster are fed from that particular lines.

The drivers or front air conditioning is tapped into the OTR a/c system that has 1 inch or larger freon lines that run to the exterior condenser bay with a couple of tubes tapped off those that run to the drivers evaporator.

If you scrap the OTR a/c system and abandon the lines which would hold lots of freon but want to use the existing front evap system you will need to run new lines from the front of the bus to the back where you would need to install a small a/c compressor and condenser just for that use. ( Big PITA ! ) What probably would happen is that you couldn't match up an automotive a/c compressor that would work with the old style evap and expansion valve. Best to just replace the front a/c system with an automotive version and hide it under the dash where possible.

I use roof air while on the road operated by my generator... Cheaper than fussing with all that extra expensive tubing and the re-engineering of the a/c system.

Dave.... ( EL-Cheapo )...
Logged

Never take a knife to a gunfight!
Kwajdiver
MCI-9 "Kwaj Diver"
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1155





Ignore
« Reply #2 on: November 08, 2008, 01:29:45 PM »

Does your bus air not work?

Always a question if the roof airs will keep the bus as cool as you would like it, while rolling down the road.

Bill
Logged

Auburndale, Florida
MCI-9
V-6-92 Detroit, Allison 5 spd auto
Kwajalein Atoll, RMI
ilyafish
Sr. Member
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 280


WWW

Ignore
« Reply #3 on: November 08, 2008, 02:44:08 PM »

I am trying to figure out what is the best method...to get roof airs or to just duct out the OTR a/c.  I was thinking roof airs simply because of the fact that i can park the bus and still get air....what do you guys do?
Logged

Own: 1981 MCI MC9 w/
Veggie Oil Conversion
Live:  Flemington, NJ

1 Corinthians 9:19-22
Lin
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 4566

1965 MC-5a




Ignore
« Reply #4 on: November 08, 2008, 03:43:30 PM »

If the OTR air is working, it seems best to just keep it going.  If it is not, it might not be worth the effort.  I removed the original heat and air system on my 5a.  The coils took up a space of about 16 inches by 6 feet.  That is a pretty reasonable amount of space to reclaim.  Dash air is better than roof air for driving, but is will certainly take more money and effort to install.  It would seem that, one could install an extra roof air right over the driver and be okay.
Logged

You don't have to believe everything you think.
platinum mci
Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 58



WWW

Ignore
« Reply #5 on: November 08, 2008, 04:07:23 PM »

the systems works just has leaks and will nee to be recharged offten and if I have to replace the old lines with a new one would rather just install a new system and get rid of the monster system in it now.
Has any body installed a automotive type system in the mci 9 and if so what did they use?
Logged
belfert
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 5446




Ignore
« Reply #6 on: November 08, 2008, 04:11:23 PM »

I am considering adding road air to my bus, but my current and projected finances mean it will probably never happen.  I would like to do another A/C unit as close to front as possible for the driver and to keep the living area cool.  One A/C unit in the front living area that is around 12 feet long isn't cutting it.  I have four 3'x4' windows that are nice to look out of, but they really add to the heat load.

My original A/C system had all kinds of problems so I scrapped it.
Logged

Brian Elfert - 1995 Dina Viaggio 1000 Series 60/B500 - 75% done but usable - Minneapolis, MN
quantum500
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 146




Ignore
« Reply #7 on: November 08, 2008, 06:16:55 PM »

Wouldn't it be possible to add a small A/C unit in the front of the bus either spare tire area or under the drivers area and plumb it to the drivers area.  A good quality house hold window unit would probably go a long way and even if life was short say two or three years it would still be cheap compared to keeping the OTR A/C serviced.  If your set up to use the big alternator to run the inverter going down the road you have enough power to do 2 roof tops or one roof top and a window A/C unit with out running the generator. 
Logged
ilyafish
Sr. Member
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 280


WWW

Ignore
« Reply #8 on: November 08, 2008, 08:49:23 PM »

how exactly would you go about having the alternator run to an inverter, as opposed to hooking an inverter up to the start up batteries....something that i basically want to completely avoid
Logged

Own: 1981 MCI MC9 w/
Veggie Oil Conversion
Live:  Flemington, NJ

1 Corinthians 9:19-22
Lin
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 4566

1965 MC-5a




Ignore
« Reply #9 on: November 08, 2008, 09:30:32 PM »

You would have the inverter run off the house batteries but have the alternator charge the house batteries as you travel.  This assumes that you have a 12 volt coach electrical system.  If you have a 24 volt alternator, it can be done by using a Vanner equalizer.  You need a big alternator though.  My 24 volt, 45 amp alternator is only good enough for normal vehicle functions.  In my case, I could mount a 12 volt alternator on the engine separately to charge the house batteries, but it will not be the monster needed to run AC.  People like me run the generator if we need AC while traveling.
Logged

You don't have to believe everything you think.
CraigC
Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 64





Ignore
« Reply #10 on: November 09, 2008, 11:56:53 AM »

I have the front vent of  my front roof air 4 feet back from the front windshield. I point the front vent at the upper part  of the windshield where I have 2 fans that I direct some air back from there. We survive but I prefer a little more cooling in the front in 100 degrees plus temperatures.  Below 100 degrees our system works very well. Driving into the sun makes a big difference if the front is shaded 100 degrees outside it is still OK.
 
Most of the time there are just 2 of us and we could survive just off of a dash unit only until the real heat of the day. I am talking about the SW desert areas with low humidity and my own opinion.

 I once had my generator quit in the desert and we pulled a divider that was toward the front of a S & S and the 4 of us sat in the front and survived with the dash air. Yes it was a little uncomfortable but not like the 112 or so  outside that day.

I opt for a dash air. I do not currently have one and probably will not get around to installing one. A good back system if needed. I think it's Frank Allen that has 2 evaporators running off one engine driven compressor. One for dash and one about mid cabin.
« Last Edit: November 09, 2008, 01:44:33 PM by CraigC » Logged

Craig C
4104 8V71TA/V730
quantum500
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 146




Ignore
« Reply #11 on: November 09, 2008, 01:34:17 PM »

You would have the inverter run off the house batteries but have the alternator charge the house batteries as you travel.  This assumes that you have a 12 volt coach electrical system.  If you have a 24 volt alternator, it can be done by using a Vanner equalizer.  You need a big alternator though.  My 24 volt, 45 amp alternator is only good enough for normal vehicle functions.  In my case, I could mount a 12 volt alternator on the engine separately to charge the house batteries, but it will not be the monster needed to run AC.  People like me run the generator if we need AC while traveling.

My entire house system is 24v there are 24v inverters.   I can get 275amps @ 24v most MCI coaches of the vintage talked about are set up up with the big DN50 delco charging system at 24vdc.  If you have that system you have some pretty serious options while going down the road.  Mine is set up to charge the house batteries through the old 100amp solenoid that previously turned on the condenser fan for the a/c so not only do I have a switch but I even have a light that is illuminated on the dash when its charging.  Works well and I recommend it to any one that would like to save fuel while going down the road.  Its a bit redundant to run the generator while you have plenty of electric capability right off the bus engine if you ask me.
Logged
platinum mci
Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 58



WWW

Ignore
« Reply #12 on: November 09, 2008, 04:56:20 PM »

All of the ideas are great but I would srill like to install a automotive style dash a/c inthe drivers area and just use the roof a/c only when the dash a/c wont keep up, still looking for anydody has done this or seen this application
Logged
luvrbus
Guest

« Reply #13 on: November 09, 2008, 05:26:08 PM »

Red Dot is the unit most of us use for dash air   www.rdac.com   they will have a unit that will work for you.   

www.discountvantruck.com they sell A/C units also   

good luck
« Last Edit: November 09, 2008, 05:30:41 PM by luvrbus » Logged
platinum mci
Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 58



WWW

Ignore
« Reply #14 on: November 09, 2008, 05:32:38 PM »

thank you for the link!!!
Logged
Pages: [1] 2  All   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.18 | SMF © 2013, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!