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Author Topic: Suggestions for bottom vent for Norcold refrigerator  (Read 4560 times)
oldmansax
Tom & Phyllis
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« on: November 13, 2008, 05:34:48 PM »

Our old Norcold had a death rattle   Sad  so we have been looking for a replacement.

We found a deal not too far away for an almost new Norcold 120X-IM 12 cu. ft. WITH AN ICE MAKER!!! WHOOPEEEEEEE!   Grin Grin Grin

We went & picked it up today, figured it would be a good day as it's raining cats & dogs here, and when we got home the old one had gone to the great refrigerator heaven in the sky. So, after cleaning it out & cooking all the food we just bought   Angry Angry  I need to install the new one NOW, instead of at my leisure.

Which brings me to the next question. The old one has a regular refrigerator though the roof vent, but the bottom vent was in the bus interior. This worked fine because it only ran on 120V & 12V, no LP. The new one runs on 120V & LP so I need to install a bottom outside vent. If I remember correctly the standard Norcold deal is brushed aluminum or something pretty flimsy.

What can I use that will look nice & be substantial? The install manual says I need an opening of 9 3/4" x 19 3/8". It has to be hinged so the unit can be serviced and electrical & LP connected.

Any ideas? I am thinking I should make something that spans the tubing in the walls so I will have something substantial to connect to. I am looking at a roughly 200 square inch opening but not all of that is free space. Has anyone used anything ready made? Or, should I just go down to the local metal fab shop & have something made up?

TOM
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gus
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« Reply #1 on: November 13, 2008, 05:58:31 PM »

Tom,

I can send you a photo by email of my Norcold outside air intake. It isn't at all bad looking but does require cutting a hole in the side of the bus. Since mine was already installed by the PO I had no choice.

However, I don't see how you could ever have an inside intake and still fit the fridge into a reasonable space. Also, servicing the fridge from inside would be almost impossible. I had to replace the igniter panel once and it wasn't too bad from the outside. I can't even imagine how I could have done it from inside.

Be sure to pay close attention to the dimensions for the exhaust flue, this is critical for proper fridge operation. Cooling air has to be forced to flow over the boiler fins so the flue has to be shallow enough to allow this.

When I first got my bus the fridge had no outside vent?? I'm lucky I live through this because it was my first RV and I didn't know any better.
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Dreamscape
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« Reply #2 on: November 13, 2008, 06:00:44 PM »

Here is what I found on the e place.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NORCOLD-ACCESS-VENT-DOOR-P-W_W0QQitemZ260296417487QQihZ016QQcategoryZ50073QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247

another, this one is aluminum

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NORCOLD-VENT-DOOR-POLAR-WHITE_W0QQitemZ260296417797QQihZ016QQcategoryZ50073QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247

HTH,

Paul
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luvrbus
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« Reply #3 on: November 13, 2008, 06:12:19 PM »

Tom, does your fridge set on a outside wall, mine is in the middle of the kitchen and I vented it out the bottom of the bus and slide it out for repairs 
 good luck
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« Reply #4 on: November 13, 2008, 06:18:54 PM »

luvr,

If your fridge is LP I don't see how you could ever exhaust it out the bottom??

Intake cooling and combustion air, yes. But those hot combustion gases have to go somewhere and they won't go down.
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luvrbus
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« Reply #5 on: November 13, 2008, 06:24:27 PM »

Gus, I think we are talking about intake air he has the roof vent already and I should have said intake  my vent is on the roof  sorry   

good luck
« Last Edit: November 13, 2008, 06:30:40 PM by luvrbus » Logged
oldmansax
Tom & Phyllis
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« Reply #6 on: November 13, 2008, 06:35:49 PM »

My refrigerator is on an outside wall. I looked at the ones on ebay but they are not really what I like.

TOM
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Jriddle
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« Reply #7 on: November 13, 2008, 06:43:06 PM »

If you don't like what is on E-bay you could build your own design. You need to be able to access back of frig from the back side to do maintenance. You can light from back if needed. If you are going to use electricity only you could vent from bottom.

John
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John Riddle
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« Reply #8 on: November 13, 2008, 06:55:14 PM »

see the following
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luvrbus
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« Reply #9 on: November 13, 2008, 07:02:03 PM »

Tom, check with a marine supplier they should have a stainless one    good luck
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« Reply #10 on: November 14, 2008, 02:44:14 PM »

Tom,

Mine is just like the white one shown on eeeeeebay with the three rows of louvers. I didn't like the white. Since my 4104 is bright Al I painted it with Al paint and it now looks much better, blends right in.

If your MC7 has bright stainless sides Al might look ok but SS would look better.
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oldmansax
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« Reply #11 on: November 14, 2008, 04:31:54 PM »

After further investigation I see that there is a cross member right in the way of the vent. I think I will have the local fab shop make me an external mount vent out of stainless to match the bus.

Thanks for the ideas!

TOM
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« Reply #12 on: November 14, 2008, 07:07:56 PM »

A small cross member won't make much difference in air intake but it might be a nuisance to maintenance accessibility.

I agree that SS will look much better, maybe you could even get it corrugated to match the bus sides.
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« Reply #13 on: November 18, 2008, 09:19:11 AM »

Tom, I was looking at a Prevost today that had a vertical and angled brace in the access opening. It was not to bad but the first I have seen like this. Good luck Tom Y
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Tom Yaegle
oldmansax
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« Reply #14 on: November 20, 2008, 05:26:19 AM »

UPDATE:

My local shop needs $400 to build a lower grill to my specs which is too rich for my blood now. I am looking for other solutions.

On a happy note, the new fridge is VERY NICE  Smiley

TOM
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busshawg
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« Reply #15 on: November 20, 2008, 07:23:41 AM »

I just cut the hole and installed a cover the same as RTS/Daytona did , (above) works well and only costs about 50 bucks

Have Fun
Grant
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« Reply #16 on: November 20, 2008, 05:49:12 PM »

You could probably buy the stock Norcold door and have it chromed for a lot less money.
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« Reply #17 on: November 20, 2008, 06:30:51 PM »

I installed mine this weekend and can't say that I like it yet but hope it grows on me, as I need it. My wife thinks it looks alright? I have spent a lot of time and money on fiberglass siding and have not got used to the Idea of cutting holes in it Sad
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oldmansax
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« Reply #18 on: November 20, 2008, 06:40:35 PM »

I just don't like the standard Norcold vents. My bus is polished stainless on the bottom and a brown & gold paint scheme topside. It looks pretty classy in a classic bus sort of way. The plastic grill would look real cheesy to me but not so cheesy that I am willing to spend $400.

I am looking into other options...


TOM
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Lin
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« Reply #19 on: November 20, 2008, 09:01:21 PM »

What about seeing if you can get a quality HVAC return air grill to either fill the space or build into an access panel?
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oldmansax
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« Reply #20 on: November 21, 2008, 04:57:37 AM »

Lin, That's what I am looking at now. I found some I like, made of aluminum, but painted white. Considering how to remove the white without damaging the grill.
TOM
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Dallas
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« Reply #21 on: November 21, 2008, 05:07:11 AM »

Tom, design your own and see if you can get Chaz to build it for you, then have it powder coated clear after polishing to a high sheen!

Just a thought!

DF

Lin, That's what I am looking at now. I found some I like, made of aluminum, but painted white. Considering how to remove the white without damaging the grill.
TOM
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« Reply #22 on: November 21, 2008, 11:33:08 AM »

They look like they are easily available in a plain aluminum finish.

http://www.atlantasupply.com/swscripts/NLNETUPD.OBJ?REQR_TYPE=O&REQR_ID=NEW+CUSTOMER&AUTH_ID=+&&LOC_NO=001&PROD_CAT_NM=Wall+Register&PC=WC&SC=X9&REQUEST_ID=CCATSEL_AS2
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Dreamscape
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« Reply #23 on: November 21, 2008, 07:00:08 PM »



Unless it says Norcold it might void any warranty. I might be all wet, but in this day and age you can't be too sure! It might have something to do with proper air flow according to Norcold. I'm no engineer, just trying to throw caution to the wind.

I moved my Norcold fridge to the other side and back further in the bus, will have to buy a bottom and top vent. Can't see any reason to pull off the old right now, maybe down the road I'll put in a solid bottom door and patch the roof. Then I'll have to paint it to match the new paint job! Just what I wanted to do! Wink

Paul

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« Reply #24 on: November 21, 2008, 07:24:14 PM »

Dreamscape,

You may be right, but it would be a bit strange.  The warranty/owners manual would have to say that you must use a Norcold vent, part number XXX.   One could check the manuals installation instructions.  If it addresses air intake, it will probably define it in square inches instead of a part number.  It really does not need all that much.  It is not like you are going to have a wind being sucked through it as the return air grill is designed for.
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makemineatwostroke
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« Reply #25 on: November 21, 2008, 07:31:26 PM »

Lin; you are right it is sq inches on the Dometic and Norcold the large doors are for access to unit for repairs very little air flow     have a great evening
« Last Edit: November 21, 2008, 07:33:59 PM by makemineatwostroke » Logged
Dreamscape
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« Reply #26 on: November 21, 2008, 07:36:16 PM »

See, I knew someone with more marbles than me could explain it!  Wink
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oldmansax
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« Reply #27 on: November 22, 2008, 04:41:35 AM »

I bought mine used so no warranty anyway. The installation manual gives the requirements for the vent & maintenance access but does not require Norcold specific.

Lin, that is a good site, thanks! I found something I can modify to work but their on line order is not working. I will call them Monday.

TOM
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« Reply #28 on: November 22, 2008, 05:29:17 PM »

Tom,

Make sure the one you looked at isn't steel. Mine was painted white and made of very thin, lightweight steel. I just painted it with Al paint, looks good with my Al sides.
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