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Author Topic: You were right...rust behind inner panels, what do I do to fix it?  (Read 5358 times)
ilyafish
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« on: November 30, 2008, 10:03:33 PM »

do I remove the rusted frame pieces and weld new ones on in the same place, or weld diagonal braces and keep the rusted ones in place, or just weld horizontal pieces about 6 inches above the existing pieces. Sorry may seem like an obvious answer but I have never dealt with something like this so I'm quite a bit in the dark here. Thanks guys!
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Own: 1981 MCI MC9 w/
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Sojourner
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« Reply #1 on: November 30, 2008, 11:24:46 PM »

iminaccess...could you please attach 1 or 2 photos for us to give the direct to the point of "how to"? We can get the idea of exactly what part is rusted and how bad it is.

I can give you a made up drawing via cad and show you the choices to correct the problem...free.

I am a retired fabricator of prototype cars at GM Tech Center, Warren, Mi. I rebuild my MCI-8 into 102" by 43.5 foot. Before I retired I was not able to do good welding any more do to my hand shaking. What I am saying is my bus project does not have the weld beads I likes but it will hold.

FWIW

Sojourn for Christ, Gerald
« Last Edit: December 01, 2008, 12:33:29 AM by Sojourner » Logged

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Songman
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« Reply #2 on: December 01, 2008, 12:28:51 AM »

Others know more than me, but I have always been told that if you don't get rid of the rust that it will continue to eat away at the material. I would cut it out and replace it personally.
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JohnEd
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« Reply #3 on: December 01, 2008, 12:51:56 AM »

What Songman said!!!!

I think Gumpy's site has a lot of pics of the before and after of rebuilding the bottom of the vert braces.  The vert segment that is rusted is cut off above the rust.  The plate that is welded over the vert and hor joint is reman and replaced. 

The diag braces that I have sen were of smaller size than the rest of the orig metal. The piece was put in with the outside surface in contact with the exterior skin.  That left a space where the spray foam could cover all metal and isolate it from the interior surface.  Unless you remove the exterior skin you will not be able to weld the outside seam on the new material.  I think the diag makes up for that slight reduction in structural integrity of the original stuff that can't be welded all the way around the bottom.

And again, what Songman said!!!  Something like Rust Bullet is a must. Everything should get a good rust inhibitor coating before you spray foam.

HTH,

John
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ilyafish
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« Reply #4 on: December 01, 2008, 01:45:15 PM »

here are some pictures of the rust













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Own: 1981 MCI MC9 w/
Veggie Oil Conversion
Live:  Flemington, NJ

1 Corinthians 9:19-22
buswarrior
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« Reply #5 on: December 01, 2008, 02:08:32 PM »

Where's the rust?

I see metal with brown dust on it.

Clean 'er up and spray with the rust paint of your choice?

But, then, I'm all for minimalist....

happy coaching!
buswarrior

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JohnEd
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« Reply #6 on: December 01, 2008, 03:38:55 PM »

cut out all the rusty steel and weld in new pieces of square tubing.  At the bottom weld a plate over the junction so it will be stronger than new.

Sorry to see all that rust in there.  I guess you can understand why some of us were adament about your inspecting that area.  your on the right track now.  check gumpy's site for how he fixed it.

good luck,

john
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"An uneducated vote is a treasonous act more damaging than any treachery of the battlefield.
The price of apathy towards public affairs is to be ruled by evil men." Plato
“We can easily forgive a child who is afraid of the dark; the real tragedy of life is when men are afraid of the light.”
—Pla
niles500
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« Reply #7 on: December 01, 2008, 03:47:23 PM »

That'll buff right out Grin
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Dallas
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« Reply #8 on: December 01, 2008, 03:51:09 PM »

Jeeez,

I couldn't sleep at night knowing you were in such an unsafe machine.

So, I'll tell ya what I'm gonna do....

You sign that nasty ol' bus over to me, and I'm sure I can find you a nice clean school bus that will fit your budget, and keep mama really happy by the beauty of it's yaller paint!

 Grin

On the serious side, ALL buses rust, even our venerable GMC's, as much as we hate to admit it.

Yours isn't as bad as some I've seen and shouldn't be too hard to fix.

Cut out the bad, weld in the new, making sure you replace everything that needs it.

Dallas
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gyrocrasher
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« Reply #9 on: December 01, 2008, 04:27:43 PM »

That'll buff right out Grin

Thanks Niles. I just spit adult beverage on my keyboard! Cheesy Cheesy
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Jriddle
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« Reply #10 on: December 01, 2008, 06:40:34 PM »

Sorry to see so much rust in this section you have uncovered. I assume you need to take more panels off and will find more rust. Looks like time to get a good buy on some metal tubing and start welding in new bracing. The best way will be by taking off the outside panels so you can weld all the way around the new braces. If you remove the outside panels you will need to support the bus to keep it from sagging. Gumpy has a good section how he did it on his site.
John
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If It Can't Be Grown Then It Has To Be Mined
John Riddle
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1984 MC9
ilyafish
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« Reply #11 on: December 01, 2008, 07:12:43 PM »

what is the link to gumpy's site?
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Own: 1981 MCI MC9 w/
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wvanative
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« Reply #12 on: December 01, 2008, 07:30:23 PM »

Here is the link to grumpys site.
http://www.gumpydog.com/bus/

WvaNative
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Dean Hamilton Villa Grove, IL East Central IL. Near Champaign
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ilyafish
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« Reply #13 on: December 01, 2008, 07:49:40 PM »

I am having problems accessing gumpy's site...anyone else having this issue or is it just me?
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Own: 1981 MCI MC9 w/
Veggie Oil Conversion
Live:  Flemington, NJ

1 Corinthians 9:19-22
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« Reply #14 on: December 01, 2008, 07:53:26 PM »

Works for me:

http://www.gumpydog.com/bus/site_map.htm
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'75 MC-8   'Event Horizon'
8V71  HT740
Salt Lake City, Utah

"Have bus will travel read the card of the man, a Knight without armor in a savage land...."
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