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Author Topic: Newbee 4106  (Read 6231 times)
RJ
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« Reply #15 on: January 06, 2009, 08:59:17 AM »



I wanted to know if you can change the sign in the front of the bus? I need the dimensions as I am hoping to make a sign to go in there just for fun.

I have also found out the Serial number is PD41062458, if any one knows anything about this bus please let me know.

I also would like to know the Fuel tank Cap and tips for cleaning.



Mike -

Whether or not you can change the destination signboard in the front top of the coach depends on whether or not the mechanism and glass is still up there.  I can measure mine for you later this week and let you know.

FYI - PD4106-2458 was delivered new as fleet number WN-185 in May of 1964 to Western New York Motor Lines, DBA Valley Tours, based in Batavia, NY.  Have no other info on subsequent owners, but traditionally, most charter companies keep their coaches 15 - 20 years or so before selling them off.  That is, if the companies are financially healthy.  If not, well, you can figure that out.

Stock fuel tank on the 4106 is 140 gallons, of which 115 is considered useable.  Fuel mileage is in the 7-9 mpg range, depending on how heavy your right foot is, terrain, speed, idling, etc.  There is a label inside the fuel filler door, on the side of the tank itself (to the left of the fuel filler neck), that gives the fuel capacity, if it isn't worn off.  Some coaches came with an optional 165 gallon tank, you might be one of the lucky ones to have that.  For planning purposes, and to avoid ever running out of fuel, simply plan on fueling at 500 mi. intervals.  Believe me, it is NO fun to get one of these beasts restarted after running out of fuel.  BTDT!  Plan conservatively here and you'll never have the problem.

Mike Ondecker, at the Ohio Museum of Transportation, can, for a $25 tax-deductible donation, provide you with a copy of the Final Vehicle Record on your coach.  This lists all the various items that were use in the assembly of your coach, including options, serial numbers on the engine, trans, rear axle, etc.  Very helpful.

Enjoy your new toy!

FWIW & HTH. . .

 Wink
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« Reply #16 on: January 07, 2009, 11:09:31 AM »

RJ,

Thanks for the information! I know it was converted in 1994 and it was a Marine Band Bus for a number of years, but getting to invision it in real action is cool. I like old stuff. Due to the route I am guessing the fuel tank will be the smaller one. I will take you advice and not drive it over 500 miles any way. I do remember the last time I saw the bus it did have a door at the top with access to the sign board so I am hoping there is a light that is still in there and I can get it to work. How much oil should I carry on the bus and how often should it be checked?
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« Reply #17 on: January 07, 2009, 12:17:31 PM »

Mike, the average is about one gal. per thousand miles + or -  per your consumtion rate. another tip: let stand, eng off for a couple of hours before checking, for better accuracy.>>>Dan
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Utahclaimjumper 
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« Reply #18 on: January 16, 2009, 01:15:20 PM »

My father in law thought the fuel tank was 200 gallons but unless they changed it I am betting it is the 165 tank. Should I run the older gas down to a 1/3 then fill up with new or just keep in topped on the way?  Also how long can you dry camp with 175 gallons of fresh water. I am planing on having 2-3 people and want to make sure I can last 4 days at indy. Also the Generator is propane, is there any thing I need to be looking for on this.  I had planned on changing the oil in the generator and cleaning the plug and filter. I wonder how much propane an hour it will use. It also has a hot water heater that needs to be installed is there any tips on what to lookout for?
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JackConrad
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« Reply #19 on: January 16, 2009, 03:02:00 PM »

  I hope it is older (diesel) FUEL and not gas. Get in the habit of referring to what makes the engine run as diesel or fuel rather than gas. Referring to it as gas can cause severe problems due to a misunderstanding. Our policy is never run the fuel below 1/4 tank (you don't want to have to prime that big engine).
   As far as time dry camping, this will vary, but to give you an idea, my wife and I can go 10 days on 100 gallon of water. That is in part by being very conservative on amount of water used when showering (do you know what a "sailor shower" is?)
    Propane generators usually run very clean and are typically very easy on plugs. I would change oil & oil filter.  I have not used a propane generator and therefore cannot give you an answer about LP consumption of a generator.  Jack
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« Reply #20 on: January 16, 2009, 04:07:24 PM »

MM,

I will second Jacks comments.  Gen plug should be fine....and there should be 2 of them.  Change the oil.

I had a bad experience with oil.  I once charged up the engine with new oil after replacing all my bearings.  I then put the RV into storage and added a quart of Marvel's  Mystery Oil,  really good stuff, and you can trust me on that.  I started the engine twice in 5 years and then drove it 20 miles at the 5 year mark.  Sat another four years.  At the nine year mark I started it and ran to operating temp.  For reasons I will never understand I got really worried about those bearings and lost sleep over it for months.  With the RV's front end raised high I drained the oil, not even showing any signs of being dirty, and replaced the plug.  Then I dropped the pan.  A 440 pan isn't all that heavy but this one almost slipped and it was hard to balance.  It had 2 inches of thick dark goo in the bottom of the pan and I shuddered at the thought.  Apart came the hi volume oil pump and I saw a couple of scratches that should definitley not have been there but it was OK.  I dropped a few bearings and saw that they too had "processed" something but it wasn't all that hard.  All is well and I wonder that the sludge was a fraction of an inch below the oil pickup.  The oil change interval is every so many thousand miles or annually I have read.  A mech friend told me I should have my head examined but I already knu that.  It only had 40 miles on it total.  Maybe D 2 stroke spec oil is different.

I would change out my oil and filter. 

Get a sample of you coolant in the mail for analysis.  Make sure the "correct" coolant was used.

Get and install a electric fuel pump at the tank and check valve so priming is not impossible on the road and it is a snap at filter change time in the shop.  Cody will work with you on that.  You don't need any more challenge at this point than absolutely necessary and getting it reprimed is a seriious challange without a pump.

Leave the old oil filters in place and change them after you get it home.  If there is crud in the fuel it will clog up the :first" set of filters in short order and changing them out is all you can do.  Save the old filters and cut them open to see what the filter is stopping.

Check the operation of your low oil pressure and over temp automatic engine shutdown. 

Tire air pressure at every stop for awhile and those tires are beyond use that are on the bus.  No UV cracking?  see what Cody says but plan on new rubber shortly.

Plus everything others have said and will say.  You are really fortunate to have Cody there for you.  My best wishes.

I wish I had that 4106!!! Grin Grin

John
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« Reply #21 on: February 09, 2009, 10:53:00 AM »

How much would it cost to replace an airbag. I know the left rear airbag leaks, is this a major job? Can I have the oil changed at a flying "J" or should I choose a place that I know will have the filter and oil? I will also need the tires inspected they have been in side storage but they are 5 + years old. Replacing all of them with the maintance could be a major deal on my limited budget.
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JackConrad
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« Reply #22 on: February 09, 2009, 11:09:32 AM »

   No matter where you take the bus for an oil change, I would want to see the 40 wt. CF2 oil on hand before they drained my oil.  I don't think Flying Js have a pit for oil changes (at least, I don't remember ever seeing one, but I wasn't looking for one either).  Trucks are much easier to slid under on a creeper than a bus is.
   I have no idea about cost to replace an airbag. I would gues 2-3 hours. Depends partially on mechanics experience doing this on a bus.
   Do your tires have any fine cracks in the side walls? If not they should be OK for a couple years.
Jack
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« Reply #23 on: February 09, 2009, 11:16:23 AM »

If you are on a budget, learn to change your own oil, it will get you used to being dirty, and  and more importantly you will start to understand the bus more.  Do you really know the air bag is leaking?  Could be air beam, leveler/ whatever.  As long as the leak is slow you can decide to fix know or monitor closely. You should probably travel with at least a spare bag in case one blows.  I would probably run the bus home watching tire pressure and temps with an IR gun, every 1/2 hr at first and longer as you get to know the bus better.
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« Reply #24 on: February 09, 2009, 11:31:06 AM »

  Do you really know the air bag is leaking?  Could be air beam, leveler/ whatever.  As long as the leak is slow you can decide to fix know or monitor closely.

4106 did not use an air beam, they used a rolling lobe airbag.  I assumed you know the air bag was leaking. As was mentioned, if you are not sure the air bag is leaking, it could be the leveling valve, It is common for these to leak (usually not enough to make it unsafe to drive the bus). If it is the leveling valve, they are an easy replacement AFTER BLOCKING THE BUS BEFORE GETTING UNDER IT, a couple air lines, a couple bolts and a control link(2 more bolts).  Jack
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« Reply #25 on: February 09, 2009, 12:13:38 PM »

The airbag airs up, but when the bus is sitting it will loose air in the rear and heal over. My Father inlaw puts a bottle jack under it to level the bus when it is parked. How much oil does it hold? Maybe I could change it befor I even start it up. I will check for cracks in the tires when I go up in May. Does any one know the filter part number? I am only bringing my american set of tools and leaving the metrics behind to make space.
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« Reply #26 on: February 09, 2009, 12:30:44 PM »

        Shouldn't need any metric wrenches for OEM nuts & bolts.  If it only leaks down after sitting, it sounds like a leveling valve.
       Should hold about 7-8 gallons.  The difference between LOW & FULL on the dipstick is 1 gallon. We find that running the bus with the oil level about 1/2 the way between LOW & FULL reduces oil consumption (as opposed to trying to keep it right at the FULL mark.
       Oil filter could be a canister type or a spin on.  Either filter should be available at any big truck parts store.  Jack
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« Reply #27 on: February 10, 2009, 06:55:02 AM »

Hey Mike I learned tons reading the entire archives here.  I just started  at the beginning

http://www.busconversions.com/bbs/index.php?board=1.9480  and read on thru.  This will help alot with the general knowledge you need to get this puppy home (safely)  BTW the bus settling down after you turn it off is a drag but unless it dumps all the air immediately that is something you can deal with later.
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« Reply #28 on: June 19, 2009, 07:56:23 AM »

I have been talking to my Father in-law and he is working on getting the bus inspected for problems before I come up for the big trip. I hate to open this can of worms but I am not square on the subject and they are so expensive. The Tires on the 4106 that we have are 11R 22.5, and rears are 12R 22.5. Wouldn't they need to all be the same size? I want to replace them with some used tires as I cannot do the 2k for new ones. Can some one give me the tire sizes that would fit the bus and the most avaliable in used. The tires on the bus now have fine crack running along the rim and I am hoping to be able to drive it to the local tire shop. I will have the used one with me or shipped to the tire guys. What do you guys think.
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cody
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« Reply #29 on: June 19, 2009, 08:06:20 AM »

I emailed your father in law last weekend and left him my phone number but haven't heard from him yet.
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