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Author Topic: Coleman Basement Model Heat Pump (2 ton)?  (Read 5811 times)
grantgoold
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« on: December 29, 2008, 09:12:49 PM »

Folks, I have the basement model listed above model#6335. Throughout the installation instructions and such the system continues to refer to the heating function of this unit. While I purchased the unit for the air conditioning factor, did this model also come with the heating function as well. All the instructions (including the thermostat) continue to have elements of heating as well.

Anyone have this basement model or similar and can shed some light on if I in fact do have the heating components. I am hooking up the system soon and if there is heat I have just saved a bunch of money!!! Grin Grin

Here is the link to the instructions for anyone who can help?

http://www.rvcomfort.com/pdf_documents/1976323_copy2.pdf

Thanks

Grant
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Grant Goold
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« Reply #1 on: December 29, 2008, 10:16:16 PM »

The manual says "HEAT PUMP".  It is an air conditioner and it also makes heat the same way.  That makes it a spendy and top of the line item.  Furnace and AC....good work.  Now install propane heating for redundancy and boon dock heating and you are good to go.  Heat pump is all you need down to zero degrees then you need electric or propane to keep it livable.

For back up and for those 100 plus days that catch us all, I  would install TWO of those units.  Same ducts cause I wouldn't zone them unless it proved needed for some reason.

What bus and what insulation and windows???

John
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Nick Badame Refrig/ACC
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« Reply #2 on: December 30, 2008, 03:53:07 AM »

Hi Grant,

Your curcuit board in your Coleman has a set of contacts that are used for an external furnace. Your T-stat for

the Coleman will control this furnace along with sencing the tempature. If you purchaced a straight air unit,

chances are it is what it is... Look inside the compressor compartment and see if there is a funny looking valve

with 3 copper tubes comming off the top and 1 tube comming out the bottom. There will be a selonoid on

the center of the body too. This is a reversing valve. If you have one, it's a Heat Pump. If not, only A/C.

All RV basement units also have the option to add electric resistence heat to the supplys.

Good Luck
Nick-
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« Reply #3 on: December 30, 2008, 07:46:02 AM »

I realize it would take more space, but if it were me, I would use two 13,500btu units rather then the single 27,000btu double compressor unit.  Reason-look at the wiring schematic between the two.  The 13,500 is a basic unit compared to the 27,000 with its' staggered compressor run, auto high low fan speeds, and multiple relays to run the mess.  We then go back to the redundancy theory also with two smaller units compared to one big unit.  On my truck conversion, I am using two 13,500btu units for the living room, one 7,000btu for the bedroom and one 7,000btu for the cab (I don't like to be hot).  Good Luck, TomC
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« Reply #4 on: December 30, 2008, 09:19:54 AM »

Nick,

Grant identifies the unit as a model #6335 in his text but the manual that he lists is a #6535.  The 6535 is a heat pump.  Considering that you were sure that he has an AC only unit I assume that the 6335 is, in fact, an AC unit.  I didn't catch that contradiction when I first read his post so I think there is a question remaining....which unit does he have?   Grant?

John
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Nick Badame Refrig/ACC
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« Reply #5 on: December 30, 2008, 12:19:10 PM »

Nick,

Grant identifies the unit as a model #6335 in his text but the manual that he lists is a #6535.  The 6535 is a heat pump.  Considering that you were sure that he has an AC only unit I assume that the 6335 is, in fact, an AC unit.  I didn't catch that contradiction when I first read his post so I think there is a question remaining....which unit does he have?   Grant?

John

Hi John,

I'm not sure..  I'm a Dometic OEM Dealer and I do work on Colemans but I rarely sell new ones so, ?? Not too sure!
Like I mentioned, he needs to confirm that he has reversing valves in the unit.

Nick-
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« Reply #6 on: December 30, 2008, 01:01:51 PM »

Grant - I have the heatpump model installed and running in my bus - I did not purchase the T-stat as I had just bought a new one for my RVAC that was replaced by the RVP - I did not hook up the heat pump (which is merely running the sytem in reverse) because running the heat pump puts more cycles on the compressors (shortens the life), I have both aqua hot and electric heat, and I don't spend much time in the cold.

That being said you'll like the unit - It's quiet at both speeds - My T-stat will test and sense whether there is enough amperage to run both compressors high/low fans (don't know if yours does) and operate accordingly

In answer to your question - Check to see if you do have the heatpump unit - If not you can run the heating source off the same T-stat (if 12 volt) - the T-stat wiring directions may be what your refering to.
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« Reply #7 on: December 30, 2008, 06:35:26 PM »

I have determined that the unit is an AC only. I do not have the heat pump and the thermostat will control a seperate heater as needed. I have several eletric toekick units and three inches of insulation on the side walls. I have been running a small electric heater today (40 degrees) and it is very warm inside. Not sure I will need much more than I have. I started the AC unit today and it runs quitely and blows something fierce. Now I have to wait for summer again to take full advantage of the system.

Thanks

Grant
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Grant Goold
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« Reply #8 on: December 30, 2008, 07:17:46 PM »

I would still consider propane furnace if the budget allows
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« Reply #9 on: January 07, 2009, 10:50:45 PM »

Grant - Glad your happy with it - About ten years from now, if I park next to you, make sure you lock your A/C compartment ..... In case my unit is broken and needs parts  Roll Eyes
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« Reply #10 on: January 08, 2009, 05:58:07 AM »

That is good to know! I tested the new ducting system today and I have really nice distribution of the cool air. We staggered the registers so the air flow drops from the ceiling in various parts of the bus. We even have a register the makes it a little cooler for the driver. Without a roof raise, I will have to be creative when building the cabinets so the ducting isn't as obvious. I think we will use the area for a light valence and additional wire run.

Thanks again for the input.


Grant
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Grant Goold
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« Reply #11 on: January 08, 2009, 12:26:08 PM »

CarolinaBoy,

I am with you on that.  Propane is the cheapest heat you can buy and the most convenient.  So many here have had such resounding success with the CatCon propane panels that you can't ignore their viability.  Having had my two heart attacks, I will stay with my propane Hydroflame furnace.  It only occupies a few cubic feet of the most inaccessible space in the back of my counter and at 48K BTU will heat me out of the place.  I use cubes exclusively when I can.  I think a ducted heat pump would be "liven large".

Grant,

I don't know of anybody that has addressed this:  I think that AC cold air should be introduced to the living area up near the ceiling so the cold air will settle down through the hottest air in the room.  That being said, the return air for the AC should also be at the top of the room but a distance away from the cold air registers where it can use the hottest air in the room for the input to the AC heat exchanger.

That seems easily doable.  Now. the inverse is true for the heated furnace air.  It needs to be injected into the room near the floor, Ala toe kick heaters, so it warms the coldest air as the thermal moves up.  Also, the inlet for the furnace needs to be low so the furnace can ingest the coldest air.

Using a roof top unit all that criteria is met for the AC.  Likewise, using cubes or the propane furnace, all the conditions for efficiency and comfort are met.

The rub comes when we go to ducted bay units that are the furnace/heat source and the AC source.  One size doesn't seem to fit all as the duct function reverses for heat or cool.  I think you would need two complete and separable duct systems for this to work and you would have to be able to switch between them.  I don't see that happening to any except the most well healed and adventurous.  I think it is a mistake to use the floor level for return in a basement unit especially since you are running ducts to the ceiling anyway.

Thoughts and ruminations,

John
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« Reply #12 on: January 08, 2009, 03:32:43 PM »

Thanks for the continued input. I have been advised by some great HVAC guys that a combo unit is not efficient at all. They suggest on duct system for the AC only (for the very issues you addressed) and then some heaters that push air on the floor to have it rise to the ceiling. Right now, I have only one small cube heater and the sucker keeps the inside nice a warm only after 45 minutes of operation.

Right now, I will stick with the system I have and can afford. I like the idea of a return away from any one of the registers.

Thanks again.

Grant
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Grant Goold
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JackConrad
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« Reply #13 on: January 08, 2009, 03:50:30 PM »

Grant,
    We have the same unit (AC only).  We were told that the AC function was about 15% less effecient in the combo Heat Pump/AC unit. Since we live in Florida, we wanted all the AC we could get. We originally used cube heaters for our only heat source until installing a used ProHeat a couple years ago.  As was mentioned our AC vents and return are in the ceiling and our ProHeat toe kick units are near the floor. We are very pleased with both the AC and heat in our coach.  Jack
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« Reply #14 on: January 08, 2009, 05:01:40 PM »

That is excellent real world info. I think I will start looking for the something highly efficient to heat the unit. We live on the right coast and seldom see very cold nights. I will set up the interior to handle future changes in the heating system should we need it.

Thanks

Grant
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Grant Goold
1984 MCI 9
Way in Over My Head!
Citrus Heights, California
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