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Author Topic: Electric heaters?  (Read 3615 times)
grantgoold
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« on: December 30, 2008, 06:36:46 PM »

How about some suggestions on electric heaters?

Thanks

Grant
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Grant Goold
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« Reply #1 on: December 30, 2008, 07:13:58 PM »

On the portable cube fan forced style:

Pay for one that has tip-over protection.

Pay for one that has a temperature adjustment, not just two settings.

Test drive them for fan noise. Pay for a quiet one.

a couple of them are a great addition to every busnut's arsenal.

happy coaching!
buswarrior

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NewbeeMC9
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« Reply #2 on: December 30, 2008, 07:40:39 PM »

I carry two of the oil filled radiator type, 
-cause there cheap (about $40 and 20 on clearance) and and i had them already, 
-usually only run them on the 600 watt switch but can bump them up to 1500 watt
- they are quiet
- don't feel like i'm gonna set the bus on fire or burn myself
- don't need them going down the road
-   - don't like the footprint but it 's not that bad,  always something, ay Undecided

if i were bying now, i would seriously consider the new micathermic, they have them at HD and can be wall mounted, and take up less space,  have 41 freeze protection setting.

if i really want to heat the bus up fast i get the mrs. to dry her hair Shocked


IMHO
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« Reply #3 on: December 30, 2008, 07:48:06 PM »

Ditto.  I use two oil filled radiator style heaters.  They get the job done.  I'm certain there are much better solutions, but they are safe and two will do with a small fan to circulate the air.

Mark
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Lin
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« Reply #4 on: December 30, 2008, 08:00:39 PM »

I like the cheap plastic ones the best.  Although I do have one the was about $50. with a remote control/thermostat.  They are very quite and never get very hot.  That's why the case can be made of plastic.  The fan keeps going, but the element turns off before it is very hot; just nice warm air.  The cheapest ones are about $20.  If you have not tried one yet, get one.  You will be surprised how well they work.
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TomC
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« Reply #5 on: December 30, 2008, 10:14:04 PM »

The Vornado electric heater has two heat settings, thermostat, auto or continuous fan with tip over.  Works well and is pleasantly quiet.  Good Luck, TomC
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« Reply #6 on: December 30, 2008, 10:37:41 PM »

Tom,

That looks like the high end of what I was referring too,  The one I got from Costco was also two speed with remote/t-stat but does not have the rotating grill.
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« Reply #7 on: December 30, 2008, 10:42:21 PM »

The old cubes came with a built in cleanable air filter.  The air down at the floor, where you will run the cube, is very dusty.  My filters got pretty dirty pretty fast.  2 dogs....you know how it is.  The new cubes DO NOT have a air filter.  The interior of the cube is a really restrictive honey comb of radiator like fins.  They plug up quickly and the over-temp protects the unit but it doesn't work as well as it did when it was new.  Blow some really high pressure air through the front and that layer of dust will be dislodged and the heater will start working better.  I taped a piece of cheese cloth over the rear air inlet and ran a vac over that every week.  Worked out very well.  YMMV  Hold your cube up to the light and look thru it.  Should be clear view of what is on the other side.  Obey KISS rule and don't go for the oscillating units or remote control.  I had it and it was not worth it compared to the simple cubes I had.  IMHO

Everything Buswarrior said plus a filter.  They cost $20 off season and don't pay $50.  I don't like the oil filled ones cause they don't react fast enuf and they are huge by comparison.  They are quiet and last a long time and no filter hassle.

I even built my cubes in so they drew air from under the bed and from inside the cabnet so running them would vent those areas and warm them a little.

You MUST have a really small fan on the floor pointing straight up.  In a corner is best.  That will de-stratify the air and your feet will be as warm as your head.  No perceived draft and my heaters seem to run less for some reason but they shouldn't.  I do this in my home also.  In the shop and every room I spend much time in in the winter.  In the summer I vent from the top of the room and the house stays cool till way after high noon.  In my RV I run the Fantastic fan on low starting in the morning.  Doesn't make it till noon but it does stay cooler longer.

Beat this to death, huh?

John
« Last Edit: December 30, 2008, 10:55:23 PM by JohnEd » Logged

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« Reply #8 on: December 31, 2008, 08:10:24 AM »

I can keep my bus warm with just two 1500 watt floor heaters in weather down to about 35 degrees (27 is the coldest I've been in). 

The Vornado I have does not have a rotating grill.  Personally, I don't like rotating grills or oscillating fans.  I like to aim them and enjoy the breeze.  Good Luck, TomC
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Tom & Donna Christman. '77 AMGeneral 10240B; 8V-71TATAIC V730.
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« Reply #9 on: December 31, 2008, 08:19:42 AM »

One critical thing is to make sure the heater doesn't get a build up of lint or debri, they can catch fire.
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Lin
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« Reply #10 on: December 31, 2008, 08:58:16 AM »

Why, fire is heat too!
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« Reply #11 on: December 31, 2008, 10:48:25 AM »

IMHO we need outside tempetures when making your comments  on your heaters  in use as Tom C did.

We just came thru a week of minus 40 and a windchill of -49 if you went outside.

So some of the heaters mentioned above might have been frozen solid Smiley
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« Reply #12 on: December 31, 2008, 11:13:59 AM »

I have a little Honeywell cube heater I probably bought around 2002 or so.  The fan is really quiet, but the thing doesn't heat worth a darn!

My parents have a 20 year old heater with the big old nichrome wires and a noisy fan, but it heats much better.  The two heaters have the same wattage rating.
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« Reply #13 on: December 31, 2008, 11:22:16 AM »

I have used three of those small cube type heaters down to 16 deg F . they all have three heat settings 500-1000-1500 to select and work just fine but fans are naisy. Jerry
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« Reply #14 on: December 31, 2008, 11:30:04 AM »

Quartz heaters are my favorite.  They won't heat the entire coach, but just what they shine on.  Very economical.  They also make a great loving light
RickBrown in Reno, NV
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« Reply #15 on: December 31, 2008, 12:48:44 PM »

Belfert, look thru the thing with a strong light.  Is it full of lint and dust?  If not just chuck the thing.  I have bought two over the years that just didn't work.  Seeing as I buy them off season I had no chance of return.

Paso,

In my Winnie I can run one cube and it will raise the inside temp by 30 degrees.  The second will raise it by another 30.  To keep comfy I need the coach to be 70 degrees inside so I figure I can be ok down to 70 - 60 or 10 degrees thereabout.  So far I have tested that theory down to 15 degrees F and it held.  One cube ran mostly full time and the other cycled every 5 minutes.  I don't know that this is all that scientific but it worked for me.  Another coach might have a different insulation factor and the numbers would vary but I think if you ran a cube full time and determined the the rise over outside ambient you would have an idea of what 1 or 2 cubes would do for you.  I think you could even make this determination in the summer if you were out of the sun..ya think?  At 12 amps per cube I would pay some attention to how many I planed to depend on.  My 40,000 BTU propane furnace is my backup while on the pole and my primary without shore power.

John
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"An uneducated vote is a treasonous act more damaging than any treachery of the battlefield.
The price of apathy towards public affairs is to be ruled by evil men." Plato
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« Reply #16 on: December 31, 2008, 01:55:59 PM »

 JohnEd While working on my bus I can raise the inside temperature 30 degress also with one cubie plugged into my shop welder plug.

  My bus is all 110 or I would build in one cubie. ( I still might )

 However I have a webasto 2010 and a webasto diesel fired air top heater not counting the propane wall heater ( AKA blue flame of death)

I have a fear of having a cold bus I can live with a warm bus but not with a cold one.
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« Reply #17 on: December 31, 2008, 02:24:54 PM »

I have an oil filled heater sitting behind the drivers seat and usually keep it on low or medium. It catches the cold air dropping off the glass and dash areas and does a pretty good job.

I have a 35,000 btu LP suburban furnace under the kitchen counter that blows straight out, The air bounces off the fridge and down the hallway and forward into the living room. I use it for emergency heating usually. The cats all plop down in front of the high volume airflow and get goofy.

I have a "turbo" heater ( electric ) in the bedroom on the dresser and run that on low most of the time. The hot air is directed up into the rooftop a/c unit and I run the fan only on that to distribute the air. ( also masks the noise of the cats playing and dog barking. ) ( White Noise!!!).

So far it's already been 7 degrees here with windchill of -9 degrees. I moved the bus into the barn (mostly) and cut down on the wind carrying off the heat.

My bus has mostly only the orginal insulation with some r-5 foam board over the walls, windows and part of the floor where I leveled it out. No, I dodn't ever get to do a proper insulating job.. $$$ & Time... Now it will have to wait since we live in it full time.

On average I can hold 68 degrees with only dips to 55 degrees with the electrics.
The sad part is that winter electric runs about $200 a month plus the 140 lbs of LP gas that gets used up. ( My wife likes HEAT! )...

This year we finally got an electric blanket... WhoooHoooo...Warmmm..

My little office is a 10X20 Playhouse building and I insulated it with r-13 fiberglass, The little ceramic heater I have keeps it nice even at 7 degrees.
Only the floor is plywood so someday I will get around to insulating that. ( I hope!)
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« Reply #18 on: December 31, 2008, 02:48:17 PM »

Belfert, look thru the thing with a strong light.  Is it full of lint and dust?  If not just chuck the thing.  I have bought two over the years that just didn't work.  Seeing as I buy them off season I had no chance of return.

I am reasonably certain the heater is not plugged as it has rarely been used, but I will check it out.  I'll probably keep it as it heats small spaces okay.  It is good for heating the bay if I haven't winterized before first freeze.

My friend who winters in Florida now gave me a heater that works pretty good.
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Brian Elfert - 1995 Dina Viaggio 1000 Series 60/B500 - 75% done but usable - Minneapolis, MN
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« Reply #19 on: December 31, 2008, 04:10:59 PM »

FWIW we had the best luck with the parabolic looking infra-red electric from Home Club.  About $40 about 4 years ago, sossss kinda spendy.  By aiming the thing at people, (us) it actually worked quite well making things cool but liveable in the old Crown Super Coach ex-schoolie.

Disadvantages were you didn't want to knock it over; was best mounted or set upon something kinda high, (we used the icebox--36" high) and it used almost 10 amps at 110 vac. and again it worked best aimed at people and not an area.  About a 6 to 8 foot range.  Good luck.  HB of CJ Smiley Smiley Smiley
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belfert
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« Reply #20 on: December 31, 2008, 07:16:57 PM »

10 amps is nothing for an electric heater.  Most of the small ones are 1500 watts at full blast so they take close to 13 amps.
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Brian Elfert - 1995 Dina Viaggio 1000 Series 60/B500 - 75% done but usable - Minneapolis, MN
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« Reply #21 on: December 31, 2008, 10:19:36 PM »

Dr. Dave,

In almost another lifetime in Berlin,Germ. I was introduced to the "DOWN COMFORTER".  My bedroom went down to 40 degrees and I was never even in the slightest chilled.  They also warm up quickly from a dead stop.  I have been hooked on those power free devices for the past 46 years.  I have a king size on my bed almost all year and the summers are mild in Eugene.  I keep one bedroom single hung sash window open wide except for the afternoon.  The coldest it has been in the bedroom is 27 and I swear to God both Wifey and I are snugly alone or together.  Incredible bed stuff and I never fear a power outage.  I am bullet proof on that score.

AGAIN, put a small fan in the corner blowing straight up....home or RV.  It should be a silent fan...you bought it.  Running a AC fan only would be a distraction for me but maybe you have modern and spendy roof tops.  The AC unit will ingest warm air at the top of the room and shoot it out in the top of the room and simply stir the air that is warmest with itself.  No gain there!  You got to get the cold air at the floor level moved up to the ceiling to get it warmed.  But, and this is from the heart, whatever works for you.

THINK GOOSE DOWN!

Thanks all and happy new year to you and yours,

John
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"An uneducated vote is a treasonous act more damaging than any treachery of the battlefield.
The price of apathy towards public affairs is to be ruled by evil men." Plato
“We can easily forgive a child who is afraid of the dark; the real tragedy of life is when men are afraid of the light.”
—Pla
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« Reply #22 on: December 31, 2008, 10:40:18 PM »

regarding the heat strips in the roof airs...

After seeing the insides of a roof air, I'm not confident that there isn't heat loss of some significance out through them when trying to use the heat strips in winter conditions.

Ok for taking the chill out when the inside/outside temps aren't that far apart, say, 20-30 degree spread, but beyond a 40 degree spread...

Under winter conditions, I'm very suspicious we might be better off isolating them with a quilted pad from underneath and covering them outside.

happy coaching!
buswarrior
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« Reply #23 on: January 01, 2009, 12:37:31 AM »

About DrivingMissLazy on toe-heater that burned interior of Eagle

Some bus nuts may have more detail about DML’s fire to add to this post. Thank you.

FIXED-POSITION ELECTRIC HEATERS


Quote "Most fires reported in the IDIs were attributed to the ignition of combustibles
outside, rather than inside, the heater. Towels, clothing, and bedding (including
mattresses) were most often cited as the objects ignited. Fire officials considered the
heaters to be “properly operating electrical equipment” with combustibles placed too
close by consumers. However, the fires usually damaged the heaters so severely as to
make inspection of the unit futile. Thus, the heaters involved in incidents were rarely
examined by fire officials for internal failures.
Some IDIs cited dust accumulation in the heater as a contributing factor to fires.
In half of the IDIs, it could not be determined whether the heater had ever been cleaned.
In IDIs where the cleaning history was known, twice as many heaters had never been
cleaned as had been cleaned at least once. Consumers rarely possessed instruction
manuals for their heaters, which contain the procedures for cleaning and maintenance.
According to evaluations by Human Factors, some manuals indicate that it is the user’s
responsibility to clean (typically by vacuuming) any accumulated dust or lint from inside
the heater on a regular basis. Without these instructions, the consumer would not know
the need for, the procedures to, or the recommended frequency of, cleaning the interior
of the heater, or whether the heater is intended to be cleaned."
unquote


The bottom-line is that all open element heater can be a torch to combustibles material. All it needs 700°F to ignites any dry combustibles material.

My suggestion is to never leave open element heater unattended without a dependable adult.
Our Michigan local fire department always suggested to unplug the toaster and the “open element” heater when leaving the premises. They are #1 cause of house fire.
After all…the electrical switch contacts are too close for peace of mind.

FWIW

Sojourn for Christ, Gerald

Happy New Year!
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Ps 28 Blessed be the LORD, because he hath heard the voice of my supplications. The LORD is my strength and my shield; my heart trusted in him, and I am helped: therefore my heart greatly rejoiceth; and with my song will I praise him
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