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Author Topic: Battery question?  (Read 1331 times)
steve5B
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« on: February 06, 2009, 02:23:24 PM »



   I need to replace them, and I was wondering do you have to use the D-8's that are in there or could you use some smaller ones.


   I don't have the road AC If that makes any difference I guess I'll have to buy the 8's.


  Steve 5B......
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NJT 5573
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« Reply #1 on: February 06, 2009, 02:28:15 PM »

Steve,

Don't know if this helps because your location is hidden, but the 8Ds are only $100 each in my neighborhood. $170 for deep cycle.
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steve5B
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« Reply #2 on: February 06, 2009, 02:37:49 PM »



   NJT,

  I'm here in the Indianapolis , Indiana area (Mooresville)  I was thinking of my old bulldozer when I typed D8's instead 8Ds

That is a good price.  Where can you get them ?

  Steve 5B........
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Tim Strommen
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« Reply #3 on: February 06, 2009, 03:00:33 PM »

Hello Steve5B,

The answer to your questions depends on how the batteries are used in your rig.


      I had 2x 8D's for the chassis electrical in my rig originally, but I replaced them with two pairs of D31A Optima Yellow-Tops (sealed, non-spillable "group 31").  Two of those D31A's are slightly smaller in footprint than one 8D (an wayyyyy lighter individually) - but this comes at a cost of Amp-hour (Ah) capacity.  The D31A's are rated at 75Ah (12Volts), while the 8D's they replaced were at about 180Ah (12Volts - Ah capacities up to 375 are available in the same package $$$$).  I also do not use over-the-road air or heat - so I only really need to worry about starting the engine, and operating the various status indicators in the cab and the exterior vehicle running lights.  The "Chassis System" is almost totally separate from the "House System" in my rig (only sharing an alternator) - the four D31A's are set up in two selectable series strings (for 24V operation).  In this way - if I leave the running lights on all night while parked/sleeping and thus run the batts dead - I still have a second, untapped, bank for starting in the morning.  I also have the option of connecting the two string together for a better crank.


Big killer here is how cold you want to try and start the engine - if it's very cold, you may need an extended crank or several crank attempts to get the engine to turn over, and 8D's are more likely to have the Ah needed to do that.


The house batts are a totally different affair...  Mine are huge, but they serve a different purpose - the house batts are running basically everything inside that needs power from HVAC&R, to lights, cooking devices, and entertainment appliances.
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« Reply #4 on: February 06, 2009, 07:25:25 PM »

Steve,
My understanding is that chassis batteries, i.e. for cranking purposes, don't routinely get subjected to a deep discharge then a recharge.  Deep cycle batteries such as golf cart batteries are used in this manner and have heavier plates that are designed for that purpose.  Engine cranking batteries needn't be that type of battery.  I'm in Virginia, and if I replaced my batteries today, unless I wanted to spend big bucks on a more elaborate type of battery, I would prefer having the extra cold weather cranking capacity of the 8Ds in my MC9.  Around here they are available at wally world or NAPA around here, and at lots of other locations should I need a replacement.

I have a block heater, but I found that when I want to crank her up when it's down in the teens and I haven't had the heater on, it takes a couple of tries.  I like having the extra umph!

Dennis
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John316
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« Reply #5 on: February 06, 2009, 07:30:11 PM »

We have 8D's, and we have started in single digits with no heater, of course that is with a S60.

God bless,

John
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Don4107
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« Reply #6 on: February 07, 2009, 12:45:56 AM »

If it matters to you, 8Ds normally have a very limited guarantee.   Rarely more the 12 months.   

Another advantage of more smaller batteries if you are 12V is that you can loose one or more batteries and still get by.  I have a little IH single screw day cab with a Cummins 350BC that is set up for 4 group 31s.  I don't use it much and as the batteries bit the dust over several years I took them out one at a time.  It will start on one in warm weather or with block heat.

If you are 24V and have two 8Ds and one dies you are stuck.  If you have 4 31s and one dies you can DC two of them and still start on the good pair.

Our 4107 is set up for two 8Ds.  It will be changed to smaller bats.  It starts on one Optima if warm. 

Only real drawback on more batts is more connections.

Don 4107

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steve5B
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« Reply #7 on: February 07, 2009, 06:57:25 AM »



 TIM, DENNIS, JOHN, DON

   Thanks for all your em put, I never really put into thought about the cranking in cold temps.  Really without the engine

  heater plugged in it would be a better choice to have the 8D'S.

  Thanks,

   Steve 5B....
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« Reply #8 on: February 07, 2009, 09:05:35 AM »

Caution...Steve…about 8D and Gr 31 batteries…the only difference as far power goes is that bigger battery will crank longer BUT either battery in cold climate will be cranking must slower than it was at 70°F.

Battery’s temperature is the key of how much “ready” reserve cranking energy available at all times.

Bottom-line is for all of us to memorize this as the rule thumb. It may not start due to cold  (weak) battery output and cold engine oil to achieve fast enough cranking speed for the ultimate compression temperature of 700°F plus or IT WILL NOT START… period.

So it still very important to think about having block heater at the below 40°F climate condition.

FWIW

Sojourn for Christ, Gerald

BTW…check all starting cables, connections to achieve the maximum current from battery to starter. If anywhere along that circuit gets hot or very warm while cranking or right after cranking mean lost of current to some degree. So either repair or replace that hot portion to be ready for the next cold climate start.
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« Reply #9 on: February 07, 2009, 11:56:15 AM »

Hey Steve,

Usually the largest battery bank was only used for starting the bus and I had to spend another small fortune for a house bank and maybe another battery for the genset. It seems most guys have a separate starter battery and house system trying to use battery isolators and equalizers which makes sense but...

I decided to make a large house bank 24 volts. The best $ per amphr is to use Trogan 105, 6 volt batteries tied together to make 24 volts. I put 4 in the original battery tran and another 4 in the bay. I them opted for a 24volt inverter/charger. I included a 24volt to 12 volt transformer that will facilitate all the "house needs" I also use a 24 volt solar and wind generator. This set up maximizes the great big 300+amp 24volt alternator to charge the whole works too.  Another benefit is it uses smaller wires. The system is painfully simple and very efficient (in my opinion) I have a reletively large house bank and no wasted space, I also have huge starting capacity and rarely ever need to plug in at an RV park - most of the time I dont even bother.

The question is... how do you start the bus if you run the house dead? That is why I have a 12volt battery dedicated to only starting the genset  that will charge 24volts at 70amps.

I use the link 2000r that displays exactly how many amp hours have been used. I have never run my batterys past 50% there is no reason as it is so easy to measure.

Anyway, my thought is to buy 4 6volt batteries and get 225amp hours...
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