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Author Topic: Awaiting heater parts DC82  (Read 2564 times)
Airbag
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« on: February 08, 2009, 06:59:58 PM »

I have cleaned up all parts by bead blasting or chemical and have painted with high temp paints and am ready for the firebox and new motor. The Chinese work for seven dollars a week but I've got em beat I work for free  Grin The sail switch was carrying quite a load of dirt and dust I am amazed the blower even started. The squirrel cages were loaded as well.









« Last Edit: February 08, 2009, 07:24:39 PM by Airbag » Logged
Sojourner
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« Reply #1 on: February 08, 2009, 07:15:07 PM »

Airbag...those photos of your work is great and also good to filed for reference view. Anyone has the same version can use this and add label on it for future troubleshoot or whatever.

Your work is excellence.

Thank you and keep up date with photo.

Sojourn for Christ, Gerald
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« Reply #2 on: February 08, 2009, 07:18:22 PM »

Beautiful work!

Glenn
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Glenn Williams
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1968 MCI 7 Ser. No. 7476 Unit No. 10056
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Airbag
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« Reply #3 on: February 08, 2009, 07:24:15 PM »

Thanks guys, I hope it might help someone. Pictures are a God send, I can't work without them my memory is too poor. I will put the Model number in the post.
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VanTare
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« Reply #4 on: February 08, 2009, 07:26:28 PM »

the man works cheaper and does better work amazing it looks new     good job  

David
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JohnEd
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« Reply #5 on: February 08, 2009, 11:43:30 PM »

Harumph Undecided

I don't like it. Wink

Hey, that little round thing on the exterior assy will burn off that blue paint unless the paint is ceramic.  It should be made of stainless(the part).  Serious burn hazard there so I guess the smoldering burnt paint would serve as a warning to those bent on leaning on your bus.  Always thinking, huh?

Beautiful job, Bro.

John
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« Reply #6 on: February 09, 2009, 05:46:49 AM »

Hey,

I am planning on rebuilding my squirrel cage blowers in my engine compartment and I think you are just the man for the job!!!!   Let me get this straight you work for less than a dollar a day??? 

do you have any experience with two stroke overhauls?Huh

Just kidding. looks great. Better than new I bet.
 
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Airbag
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« Reply #7 on: February 10, 2009, 03:36:16 PM »

New Firebox next to the old, Notice the hydroformed stiffners in the side that the old doesn't have. Note what the factory wrote on the side Part# and Last One, sorry guys but someone had to get it. It fit like a glove. Now if the darn motor, circuit board and other bits and gaskets would show up I could finish it. 





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« Reply #8 on: February 10, 2009, 07:44:28 PM »


Very nice looking heater!   I'll bet you have the only 'aircraft quality' heater reman in the bus world. 
I'd hate to light a fire in that artful critter!  Wink
Cheers, JR
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Airbag
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« Reply #9 on: February 19, 2009, 08:25:00 PM »

Finally got time to put the new parts in the heater including new circuit board, motor, and gaskets. The fan gaskets I fabricated from glass reinforced high temp silicone for they are no longer available. I have been so busy at the shop building airplane parts I just haven't had the time.

I hope it works. I need to clean up the case and install it in the case. I am toying with the idea of bench running it with a car battery and my 10 gal propane tank. Anyone done this? I suppose I will have to take the thermostat out of the bus and use it.





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« Reply #10 on: February 20, 2009, 08:46:38 AM »

yes, absolutely bench test it out of the coach.

All the first time burn off stink won't have to be in the coach.

And if it doesn't work, it's easier to throw...?

happy coaching!
buswarrior
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« Reply #11 on: February 20, 2009, 09:12:35 AM »

Don't remove the thermostat, just tie the 2 wires together.  Tom Y
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« Reply #12 on: February 20, 2009, 09:28:09 PM »

Airbag,

Your furnace looks excellent.  It will be running and heating when we are both gone.  That part about the heat exchanger being the last one is not encouraging.  It is exactly like mine...drat!

You can bench test that puppy out of the coach without problem.  You only have to short the thermo line to ground to get the "heat" needed signal.  The bat voltage must be above 10 volts or something but it draws only 6 or 7 amps so you bat will be OK.  The problem, if there is one, will be the propane pressure.  When you set the thermo it will take a while to start the gas and the igniter.  The igniter is easily heard as a crackling sound.  Gas ignition is a whump and volume is determined by how much over the limit the pressure is.  Initially, mine shook the sink cabnet.  Look into your flame view hole and make sure you have all blue flame.  As the gas orifice is not available in a tournament selection of sizes and the water heater and the other appliances are, I adjusted the flame by adjusting my gas pressure to meet the immediate needs of the furnace and then rejetted everything else.

The cracked exchanger might have had its life shortened by inadequate air flow thru the furnace.  When it is choked off it gets really hot fast and the overtemp shuts off the gas.  It isn't  supposed to be part of the "normal" operation as it is a safety device.  Make certain your furnace duct holes ALL (4) have a hose connected.  The runs should be short and straight.  Right angles in that "clothes dryer" flex duct eat up the airflow.  I installed 90% metal tube duct for the single corner I had.  Where the original design ran one hose to the living room and blocked of the second, I ran both to the same wall and doubled the air to the Living room.

You will really like that furnace.  It is very quiet once you get some weights attached to the large area sheet metal parts.  The only sound you could hear from mine was the gentle whoosh of air from the registers.

Good luck with this, guy.  Let us know.

John
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"An uneducated vote is a treasonous act more damaging than any treachery of the battlefield.
The price of apathy towards public affairs is to be ruled by evil men." Plato
“We can easily forgive a child who is afraid of the dark; the real tragedy of life is when men are afraid of the light.”
—Pla
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