Thanks again for everyones help. The outer bearings looked fine so I didn't go any farther. By dropping one side to the ground (bus is sitting up to maximum height on blocks so there is no weight on axles) and lifting the other to the stops, I lost very little oil this time. When I did the seals I had both sides open at the same time so I couldn't do this until after they were closed back up. This seems to be a good way to get oil clear to the ends of the axle housing also.
I adjusted them according to everyones agreed-upon method excepting for the grease. They are well lubed in oil and I spun them good before setting them back down.
"BTW-Gumpy and Buswarrior, everytime I tell people, especially mechanics in the local garage how I removed the wheels and hubs as a single unit on a greased highway sign with no lifting, they still shake their heads in disbelief!
Can I know about that process? Or will I have to entertain drink or diner?
Wrench, I'll find the thread for you and paste the instructions back here. Did you say wine? LOL I think BW and Gumpy, as well as a bunch of others here, deserve that from me as well. It's a shame I only keep Rum in the bus
Reply modified to add the following reply from Sojourner. I hope you don't mind Gerald, Will
About removing drum from hub…is only for replacing with new drum. If you R&R the same drum after many miles of weathering and heating…you adding more chance of wobbling and dragging because of mating surface condition of rust and etc.
All major heavy truck repair shop leave the dual with hub/drum on.
About R&R (remove & replace) axle seal or brake shoes & turn drum on truck with dual wheel with air brake, I was trained to do this and been doing it while working at 2 trucking firm for a few years in the late 60’s. You will save time by doing the following.
1) Chock the other dual and one front wheel.
2) Jack -up enough just so it about ¾ inch off concrete surface.
3) Put a safety stand or wide wood block such as 4x6 and a few shim of 2x4 or plywood near jack point.
4) Release the park brake and you be able to rotate and cam adjusting lever is loosen. If it dragging, remove the piston clevis pin from the cam adjuster lever to gain the full retracted clearance. It could be excessive dried grease build up on the inside edge of brake drum to call for full retracted clearance.
5) Remove drive axle via remove nuts & lock washer and sledge hammer on center of axle to loosen the split key rings.
6) Pull out the axle with a small pan or rag under it to catch some oil dripping.
7) Remove the large nut as per shop manual.
8 ) Now slide a 10” x 4ft greased thin metal plate under dual tire. Lower the “jack” until the axle’s spindle is loose in hub.
9) Pull the dual assembly with hub along on the greased plate until it cleared spindle to roll it out enough to service the seal and inspect the bearing.
10) Clean the drum inter surface with part cleaner solvent and dry with rag.
11) Clean the grease off of lining with same solvent.
12) Finish cleaning the inter drum surface with denature alcohol to remove the “dried” oil film to avoid squealing drum braking.
13) Finish cleaning the lining surface with denatures alcohol.
14) Clean and inspect the seal’s runner surface for groove or nick. However, replace old style seal with any good brand that similar to the SKF’s Scotseal PlusXL design that can be hand installed without tools.
15) Follow the shop manual about lubing the bearing and installing the new seal.
16) Add more grease to sliding plate
17) Roll the dual to align with the axle spindle
18) Push the dual sideway in until it all the way in.
19) Follow the shop manual to install the 2 or 3 piece nut & retainer and torque.
20) Slide the drive axle in with cleaned gasket surface for the new thin paper gasket.
21) Follow the shop manual on the torque the nuts over split ring & washer.
22) Reinstall piston clevis pin to the cam adjuster lever.
23) After remove the jack, check rear end oil level.
Sojourn for Christ, Gerald