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Author Topic: Lucas Hub Oil?  (Read 6434 times)
rv_safetyman
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Jim Shepherd


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« on: February 22, 2009, 06:46:22 PM »

I told Chad I would write an article on adjusting wheel bearings per this thread:  http://www.busconversions.com/bbs/index.php?topic=11060.0.  I have been doing some more research and I think the article should give folks a good reference document to file away.

As a part of the article, I may touch on bearing lubrication.  Many of us have had wheel bearing seal issues.  Some have converted to grease.  I have switched to straight 140W gear lube.  The heavy gear lube seems to be doing the job.

In Quartzsite at the bus rally, one of the Eagle folks was really talking up the Lucas product.  He has a few of us put some on our fingers and it was a lot like STP.  It was quite viscous and would not easily leak past a reasonable good sea.  He swears that it is really great.  I did quite a bit of googling tonight and it seems to get good reviews including stopping leakage at the seal. 

I am not a fan of going the grease route (not sure why), but I am leaning towards trying the Lucas product.  Have to adjust my Bogey wheel bearings (too loose) and that would be a good time to make the switch.

Anyone have any experience with this product?

Jim
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Jim Shepherd
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luvrbus
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« Reply #1 on: February 22, 2009, 07:18:35 PM »

Jim, I use the Lucas a 50/50 mix with 90w gear lube in mine for the front and boogies and use a 50/50 mix with 140 gear lube for the differential and drop box.I was told by Dick Kaiser in Eugene not to run straight Lucas because shaving and other partials will stay on the bearings and with grease they fall to the bottom true or not I don't know but I put my trust in Dick he has been in that business for year's              good luck
« Last Edit: February 22, 2009, 07:27:47 PM by luvrbus » Logged

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rv_safetyman
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« Reply #2 on: February 22, 2009, 07:55:17 PM »

Thanks Clifford. 

Just to be sure, Lucas makes a ton of products (even gun oil).  You are mixing the hub oil  (as opposed to Lucas engine oil or some other Lucas product) with the gear oil, right? 

In another project that I was doing some research on, some folks were using the Lucas engine oil for a 5 speed tuck transmission (3/4 - 1 ton truck).  Apparently, it is common practice to use 50 wt engine oil in many light duty truck transmissions.  There, it would make sense to use the Lucas engine oil. 

Jim
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Jim Shepherd
Evergreen, CO
85 Eagle 10/Series 60/Eaton AutoShift 10 speed transmission
Somewhere between a tin tent and a finished product
Bus Project details: http://beltguy.com/Bus_Project/busproject.htm
Blog:  http://rvsafetyman.blogspot.com/
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« Reply #3 on: February 22, 2009, 08:06:57 PM »

If I can, I always pack with boat trailer wheel bearing grease. Never a failure and never had to replace a seal for leakage.

Lucas was a California trucker who could not keep his truck engines and gears togather in the desert heat. He tried to buy additives to do the job and finally made his own. The products he sells today are from his experiences hauling freight in 130 degree weather, and are the products he developed to keep his trucks togather and running in the heat.

When I was a kid once I called the shop and told them the brownie was smoking in that heat around Indio. The shop foreman wanted to know if it had any oil in it so I checked and it was full. He told me to put it back into the wind. I can see why Lucas needed some help and his products really are very good. I really like his additive for worn power steering boxes, I only used a couple of ounces and had a noticable improvement. I keep wanting to put some more in but its full.
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« Reply #4 on: February 22, 2009, 08:33:45 PM »

Jim, I mix it the instructions on the gal jug states use a 50/50 mix. I was running in straight when Dick replaced 4 of the bearing and that is when he gave me the advice, then I read the instructions a little late.His engine and gear oil is made by Red Line with the Lucas additive added so one of his reps told me.A fellow bus nut we know Joe Laird use the Lucas gear additive in a straight form in the hubs and differential and I don't recall him ever having problem but it didn't work for me.
good luck
« Last Edit: February 22, 2009, 09:12:57 PM by luvrbus » Logged

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« Reply #5 on: February 22, 2009, 09:49:12 PM »

I have been using Lucas products for years, just mix according to instructions. I can see a noticable difference. It also can give life to a tired engine or trans.  Wink

Great Stuff!

~Paul~
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« Reply #6 on: February 22, 2009, 10:02:23 PM »

I have not used any Lucas product in the bus, but our Volvo seemed to need a new rack and pinion.  Someone said to give the Lucas additive a try.  I did and the power steering improved in less than a half hour.  We never did change the rack and pinion.  I was really impressed and was considering using a Lucas oil additive I saw in a truck stop.  Supposedly, it increases lubrication and keeps engine parts coated to avoid dry starts.  Anyone use that?
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Brian Diehl
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« Reply #7 on: February 23, 2009, 07:50:35 AM »

Hi  Jim,
I'm sure your article is going to be direct, to the point and well researched.

One other thing to consider with chronic wheel seal leaks.  I had a problem with my passenger drive axle seal leaking.  I finally solved the problem by replacing the seal and hub ring as one piece.  Mohawk sold a complete replacement kit ready to go.  Once I put this on the seal has not leaked again.  So, it is possible to have something mechanically wrong with the seal system besides the seal and not be able to tell visually from looking at the part.  I was able to put both seal rings right next to each other and could not tell any differences.  However, the new one is still dry.
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« Reply #8 on: February 23, 2009, 08:17:56 AM »

I get the feeling there are a lot of us out here dealing with wheel seals and bearings on a regular basis. We really appreciate your help Jim and look forward to the article.
Will
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« Reply #9 on: February 23, 2009, 08:23:50 AM »

I had a seal in my mitre box I replaced 3 times in one year could not figure out what I was doing wrong read the instructions on the last one and it said because of the Teflon construction do not lubricate 4 years later no leaks  best to read some seals call for lubrication and some don't    good luck
« Last Edit: February 23, 2009, 08:37:33 AM by luvrbus » Logged

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rv_safetyman
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« Reply #10 on: February 23, 2009, 08:56:56 AM »

Brian, I want to make sure I know what you are saying. 

For many years, a company made a "seal saver" kit for Chevy engines for the front crank seal.  The kit was a new seal and a very thin bushing that you put over the crank.  The bushing gave you a new, smooth surface that will not tear up the seal.

Is this what you are talking about, or did you replace the bearing carrier?.  I doubt if it is the latter, since that is normally part of the axle.

If you have a link or some way for me to research, I would appreciate it.

Clifford, I am surprised about that seal.  Dan Jesel is the leading manufacturer of belt camshaft drives for racing engines.  I used to work with him when I worked for Gates.  He used that type of seal and gave very specific instructions on how to install.  Racers being racers, ignored the instructions with poor results.

I don't think that wheel seals use this technology.

Jim
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Jim Shepherd
Evergreen, CO
85 Eagle 10/Series 60/Eaton AutoShift 10 speed transmission
Somewhere between a tin tent and a finished product
Bus Project details: http://beltguy.com/Bus_Project/busproject.htm
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« Reply #11 on: February 23, 2009, 09:05:19 AM »

In my truck, I used straight 50 weight mineral oil.  Adding Lucas should help. 
As to wheel bearings, straight 140 should not be used.  It is just too thick for any cold weather (below 40 degrees).  75w/140 is the industry standard since it is more fluid in cold weather and will allow proper lubricating when first starting out.  Good Luck, TomC
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« Reply #12 on: February 23, 2009, 09:06:19 AM »

On the MCI drive axle hubs the wheel seal goes inside another "ring".  This "ring" is then bolted to the back side of the hub.  I'll try and find a picture and scan it in so you can see.
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« Reply #13 on: February 23, 2009, 09:16:57 AM »

I think Brian is right about replacing all the parts at once.  When I ordered front wheel seals from US Coach, Luke said that if the race was not perfect (I think it was the race, but may have had a different name), it would ruin the new seal and leak.
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« Reply #14 on: February 23, 2009, 09:20:07 AM »

Jim the Teflon seal is very popular now for all applications.I use the DMR brand seals that come with a  wear ring ,every seal on my 8v92 is a Teflon seal no leaks         good luck
« Last Edit: February 23, 2009, 09:32:28 AM by luvrbus » Logged

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