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Author Topic: Hardwood fooring direction  (Read 2898 times)
viento1
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« on: March 03, 2009, 08:56:47 AM »

OK, I have scoured the Oprah website looking for tips on making small rooms appear larger. I did not find any tips but I noticed that my hairstyle is out of date. Anyway, I have 3 basic options:

lengthwise,
Widthwise (is that a word?)
Diagonally

Thoughts?
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« Reply #1 on: March 03, 2009, 09:04:15 AM »

Diagonally hides more sins & doesn't add to the tunnel feel
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« Reply #2 on: March 03, 2009, 12:22:04 PM »

Ace suggested we do our Australian cypress Floor at a 45 degree angle.  We are very happy with the results. As was mentioned diagonal will hide any small discrepancies in the T&G joints which occurred during installation. Lengthwise will show every discrepancy as well as give a more pronounced "tunnel look". We did not care for the crosswise look, seemed to make the interior appear shorter.  Jack
PS: We chose flooring with micro bevel on ends as well as sides of boards.  This gives a little more traction when walking while bus is moving, as well as giving a better (matching) appearance between board ends and sides.


« Last Edit: March 03, 2009, 02:45:47 PM by JackConrad » Logged

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« Reply #3 on: March 03, 2009, 12:42:29 PM »

Thank you,

Diagonal it is then:)
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« Reply #4 on: March 03, 2009, 12:47:43 PM »

ce suggested we do our australian cypress Flor at a 45 degree angle.  We are very happy with the results. As was mentioned diagonal will hide any small discrepancies in the T&G joints which occured during installation. Lengthwise will show every discrepancy as well as give a more pronounced "tunnel look". We did not care for the crosswise look, seemed to make the interior appear shorter.  Jack
PS: We chose flooring with micro bevel on ends as well as sides of boards.  This gives a little more traction when walking while bus is moving, as well as giving a better (matching) appearance between borad ends and sides.


Jack....... Awesome looking floor you have...Hope mine turns out even half as good as your's did.

Jimmy
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« Reply #5 on: March 03, 2009, 12:52:31 PM »

OK, I have scoured the Oprah website looking for tips on making small rooms appear larger. I did not find any tips but I noticed that my hairstyle is out of date. Anyway, I have 3 basic options:

lengthwise,
Widthwise (is that a word?)
Diagonally

Thoughts?

I did all of the above.
each room different Wink
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« Reply #6 on: March 03, 2009, 02:26:33 PM »

Jack, that is one beautiful floor. Well done! Grin
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« Reply #7 on: March 03, 2009, 07:00:58 PM »


Yes, excellent  floor Jack.   When did you install?   
Lengthwise will add the most illusory length.   Still, Jack's diagonal pattern adds to 'cool' factor. 
Depending on cost, any angle will add to the cost of the finished product.  This is particularly true with 'interlocking' flooring.   You'll have additional waste.   I discovered that when installing Armstrong ceramic flooring in my bus.  Bought 25% more than the square feet would have suggested...wrong.  Ended up almost doubling the amount used.   Unlike my Pergo at home, the cut ends couldn't be used. 
JR

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« Reply #8 on: March 03, 2009, 07:16:22 PM »

That is a beautiful floor indeed and does exactly what you said Jack!!
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« Reply #9 on: March 03, 2009, 07:55:17 PM »

JR and others, rule of thumb for laying the floor on a 45 degree angle is total sq footage and add 15%! Of course this depends on type of flooring! If you start in the right place, your cut end piece will be the next start piece, and so on!

The best and easiest way to install any type floor on an angle is to use a speed square! It's small, easy to use and almost no continuess measuring!

Ace
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« Reply #10 on: March 04, 2009, 04:44:13 AM »

Yes, excellent  floor Jack.   When did you install?  
JR

Thanks for all the compliments. The floor is prefinished Australian Cypress that we purchased from Lumber Liquidators. It is T&G on ends as well as sides and 7/16" thick (solid wood). We installed it using a floor nailer, putting nails about every 4 ".  We should have put down a layer of 15# roofing paper first, we still ended up with a few squeaks if you step in the right spots. We installed the floor in '03.  The finish has held up great, although we do have a few very small dings from me dropping a few things (mostly tools).  Jack
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« Reply #11 on: March 08, 2009, 12:22:27 PM »

beautiful floor indeed Jack.
Here are some pictures of mine (better late than never).
It is Bruce Hardwood prefinished.
By doing all the different patterns, I had to regroove, retung and rebevel almost every peice. Cry
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« Reply #12 on: March 08, 2009, 12:23:08 PM »

 Cool
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MCI-9
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David Anderson
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« Reply #13 on: March 08, 2009, 06:26:53 PM »

Wow, all looks really good.  How do you guys get to your floor hatches for the tunnels and engine?  That access kept me from laying wood or tile in my Eagle, and several times I've had to get into those tunnels.

David
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JackConrad
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« Reply #14 on: March 09, 2009, 04:53:21 AM »

Wow, all looks really good.  How do you guys get to your floor hatches for the tunnels and engine?  That access kept me from laying wood or tile in my Eagle, and several times I've had to get into those tunnels.
David

The only OEM access hatches (2) on the MCIs are in the rear under our bed.  Jack
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« Reply #15 on: March 09, 2009, 02:33:17 PM »

Jack,

Yours is a really special looking job.  That would be my first choice....easily.  If I were making a wish.  Was that floor laid prior to installing the cabinets?  Is it doable after the interior is installed?  I assume that nails hold the floor down....correct?  How far do they penetrate and how did you deal with the metal under an in the bus floor?  Why Cypress?  It is pretty but is it hard?  Was any glue used?

Absolutely beautiful!

Thanks for the pics,

John
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« Reply #16 on: March 09, 2009, 04:37:30 PM »

Jack,

Yours is a really special looking job.  That would be my first choice....easily.  If I were making a wish.  Was that floor laid prior to installing the cabinets?  Is it doable after the interior is installed?  I assume that nails hold the floor down....correct?  How far do they penetrate and how did you deal with the metal under an in the bus floor?  Why Cypress?  It is pretty but is it hard?  Was any glue used?

Absolutely beautiful!

Thanks for the pics,

John

Thanks John,
   The floor was installed after all the cabinets were installed. We did remove the dinette, sofa, and chairs to install the floor.  The Australian Cypress is moderately hard (harder than cedar, but not as hard as oak).  The floor is 7/16" thick and was installed using 1 1/4" flooring nails and a flooring nailer. Floor is nailed to the new 3/4" plywood we installed after removing all the OEM wood floor inside the bus. The only metal we had to contend with were the 2 metal strips that the OEM seats bolted to.  We just put a flooring nail on either side of the metal strips.  Jack
   
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« Reply #17 on: March 09, 2009, 04:44:13 PM »

Jack,

That makes it even more impressive.

John
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