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Author Topic: ding  (Read 4022 times)
gus
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« Reply #15 on: March 12, 2009, 03:20:00 PM »

Barn Owl,

The steel GMCs started with the 4106, earlier 4000 series were almost all Al except for the running gear, engine cradle and suspension.
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PD4107-152
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Ash Flat, AR
buswarrior
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'75 MC8 8V71 HT740




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« Reply #16 on: March 13, 2009, 10:52:49 AM »

IBP in Florida has retro panels.

International Bus Parts.

happy coaching!
buswarrior
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Airbag
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« Reply #17 on: March 13, 2009, 03:07:32 PM »

IBP in Florida has retro panels.

International Bus Parts.

happy coaching!
buswarrior

I got a call from Sam today and he has no bananas so I think I will straighten what I have or fabricate new ones with the corrugations. I think the IBP ones are plastic right? I will stick with the stainless even if I have to fabricate from scratch.

Sam did have some L/H turn signal castings. I have noticed someone has installed a R/H on the left side because the drain hole is at the top. I guess they wanted to see if it would still work being full of water.  Grin I will install it on the right. I bought a seat from an MC-9 to replace the lazy boy I have for a drivers seat now. Thanks for all the advise and encouragement. I will post a picture when I get it back together.
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buswarrior
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« Reply #18 on: March 14, 2009, 03:01:19 AM »

IBP can match all the different fluting on the old style metal siding.

Give them a call.

Who has their 800 number?

happy coaching!
buswarrior
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JohnEd
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« Reply #19 on: March 14, 2009, 02:33:28 PM »

Len,

This place was built in 1910 and moved here in 50.  I rebuilt a wall into a wall that was 4+inches out of plumb.  Ceiling had a delta height of 2.5 inches from the low center to "each side".  In the attack there is ceiling joists and load bearing walls and all seem to be the same height.  I quit trying to figure this place out.  It was built before plumb  bobs and carpenter squares.  One corner of the living room is up 3 inches from the rest, I swear, and it is set on a level concrete foundation.  I replaced all the double hung windows and not a single one was square but I did find two sides among all those in the house that were vert true.

Don't get me started on the electrical.

First liar doesn't stand a chance.

John
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The price of apathy towards public affairs is to be ruled by evil men." Plato
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Airbag
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« Reply #20 on: March 14, 2009, 05:10:40 PM »

I got too thinking IBS wanted $800.00 per baggage door skin and that was no installation or fixing any sub structure I had to install them. Now that probably is a fair price but hey I'm a sheet metal man so I decided to fix the skins. They did not come out to bad. I planished the damaged area flat again using my pneumatic planishing hammer. Then I rolled the curve into it again and then used the Pexto edge roller to put the corrugations back in after making some wheels for it on my lathe. It's been a full day. Did I mention I fabricated the verticals also. I forgot to bring the 3/16" rivets home.

before



after ( not bad for a hillbilly )

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gus
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« Reply #21 on: March 14, 2009, 07:44:32 PM »

Nice job, I don't know why you didn't do this in the first place??

Isn't it nice to have the proper tools?

Old buses like ours should have a bunch of "personality" dings anyway!

Who wants to be perfect?
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PD4107-152
PD4104-1274
Ash Flat, AR
Airbag
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« Reply #22 on: March 14, 2009, 09:02:02 PM »

Nice job, I don't know why you didn't do this in the first place??

Isn't it nice to have the proper tools?

Old buses like ours should have a bunch of "personality" dings anyway!

Who wants to be perfect?

Thanks Gus
It is nice to have the right tools, all my wealth is tied up in tools so I might as well use them. My bus has no shortage of personality dings. I think my next job will be the entrance door and wheel well. It has been clobbered there and the door sticks out 2" at the bottom when closed and latched. It looks like crap. I am starting to think my bus was used in a derby. Boy sure wish I had done a better pre buy. But don't we all say that? I should have known when I asked the PO if he had maintenance logs and he said no. I will just keep plodding away at it till it's half decent.
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JohnEd
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« Reply #23 on: March 15, 2009, 11:44:19 AM »

Airbag,

Nice work.  I'm jealous.  You are adding new definition to jealous.

John
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"An uneducated vote is a treasonous act more damaging than any treachery of the battlefield.
The price of apathy towards public affairs is to be ruled by evil men." Plato
“We can easily forgive a child who is afraid of the dark; the real tragedy of life is when men are afraid of the light.”
—Pla
mikelutestanski
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Mikes Metal Mistress




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« Reply #24 on: March 15, 2009, 02:59:46 PM »

Hello;  looks familiar.  The whole of those sections are new in my bus (1972 mci 7 from upstate NY  aka salt city).  I used  some steel tubing with SS weld. Been there 14 years now.. I painted everything when finished. 
    Still looks solid and during a recent repower everything checked out fine,

     An old millwright in the paper mill told me if you had to join carbon to stainless you can do it by using SS weld and it will last.  We used this technique in a hydrapulper to keep the cast replacement plates on the rotary mixer..  Big stuff you has to climb in the pulper and used a ladder to get to the bottom..  Working in there was like working in a sauna.  The whole machine was usually about 125 degrees.     Those were the good old days... right..   
    Just another idea and you have to weigh the merits vs your needs...

      Regards and happy bussin
     mike
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Mike Lutestanski   Dunnellon Florida
  1972 MCI 7
  L10 Cummins  B400R  4.625R
gus
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« Reply #25 on: March 15, 2009, 05:10:30 PM »

Rick,

Mine also is banged up a bit around the door. Not surprising considering how many times that door must have been used and how many curbs it must have banged up against. It is also really vulnerable during tight turns in RV and state parks. I banged mine once on a travel trailer hitch in an RV park, couldn't see the hitch from the driver's seat.

I used pickup door weatherstrip to help close my door gap. It also seems to get out of adjustment about once a year also but I'm getting pretty good at adjusting it even though it is hell to get to.

Mike,

Good idea on SS welding rod. A guy did that once on a tiny carbon steel bracket on my airplane. It was such a small welding job that he didn't want to change the wire, don't blame him for that. I questioned him about using SS wire but he said it would work fine, he was right.
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PD4107-152
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Ash Flat, AR
Airbag
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« Reply #26 on: March 16, 2009, 08:36:14 AM »

I have used a welding rod for SS to S before on a cold air induction system mod on a Pitts Special once. At first I thought this won't work, but I was amazed at how well it flowed and looked when finished. Just goes to show what we think we know impossible is sometimes proven otherwise.

I wanted to install the parts on the bus yesterday but instead had to change the radiator on the mini van. Boy I remember the days when changing a radiator was four bolts and two hoses. I had the driveway full of parts and ten hours later it was done. I bet the job at the dealer would be 1K.
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zubzub
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« Reply #27 on: March 16, 2009, 11:15:14 AM »

I've been told you can also weld stainless with regular mig wire.  Now why anyone  would want to do that is beyond me.  Maybe in an emergency.
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JackConrad
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« Reply #28 on: March 16, 2009, 11:18:39 AM »

I've been told you can also weld stainless with regular mig wire.  Now why anyone  would want to do that is beyond me.  Maybe in an emergency.
I was told the same thing, but they did say that weld would rust. I seem to recall being told that SS wire required a different mixture of sheilding gases? (maybe Tri-Gas) Jack
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« Reply #29 on: March 16, 2009, 12:13:28 PM »

Jack, most stainless welds on a bus can be done 1-2% mixture of argon and oxygen but sometimes you need the 90% helium with 7.5 argon and 2.5% carbon dioxide   good luck
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