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Author Topic: GM Emergency Engine Shutdown Switch  (Read 1566 times)
gus
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« on: July 01, 2006, 11:11:24 AM »

I just added a cover to this switch today to prevent accidentally hitting it and shutting off the engine, a real disaster to say the least.

I never could understand why this switch is next to the Reversing switch which is used so often?

I got the cover, black plastic, from a marine store. It was less than $2. It is made for screw mounted switches but works on the center mount switches. The hole in the cover is an intereference fit over the switch nut but I used two small drops of silicone seal just to be sure.

I cut about 3/8"off one end of the cover so it didn't lap over the lights but it isn't necessary.

A cover could easily be made of Al but the black plastic blends in well with the black switch plate.
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PD4107-152
PD4104-1274
Ash Flat, AR
Nick Badame Refrig/ACC
1989, MCI 102C3, 8V92T, HT740, 06' conversion FMCA# F-27317-S "Wife- 1969 Italian/German Style"
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« Reply #1 on: July 01, 2006, 11:25:54 AM »

Gusc,

I remember my dad's 4104 had a cover over his emergency switch. It looked like something you are discribing too.

Thanks for the info.

Nick-
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JackConrad
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« Reply #2 on: July 01, 2006, 04:07:44 PM »

Waytek Wire (www.waytekwire.com) has the covers that are made for the center mount switches. They are available in several colors (I used red). If the switrch is on (cover must be open), when the cover is closed it will automatically shut off the switch.  Hope this helps, Jack
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« Reply #3 on: July 01, 2006, 04:20:25 PM »

Hadn't owned a GM since'96 but owned about 4. The ones I had had a little metal cover that went side to side so you wouldnt hit the button. It just closes the blower flap to cut off air. You stop kinda like a broke blower shaft. Had that to happen once. Sometimes I miss the old GM days. Grin
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NCbob
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« Reply #4 on: July 01, 2006, 05:39:34 PM »

While my bus was in the shop I had the engine pulled and my mechanic and I discussed the Emer. Shutdown damper.  Detroit made a decision many years ago to disable them because they caused more problems that they ever corrected.  I not only removed the solenoid I had him remove the baffle in the air intake.  I will now use that 24v circuit and the dashboard switch for my pre-lube pump and know that I won't have the aggrevation of the engine not starting as a result of it being tripped.

I did it MY way!

bob
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Busted Knuckle
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« Reply #5 on: July 01, 2006, 05:46:50 PM »

Good deal Bob, and I might add a very clever Idea! Glad you got 'er back with-out having to wait 'til after the holiday! See you at Knuckle's Halloween Bus Bash! BK  Grin

  Smiley Wink Grin We gonna have a heck of a great time @ Knuckle's TN Halloween Bus Bash !!!  Roll Eyes Cool Shocked
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Busted Knuckle aka Bryce Gaston
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gus
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« Reply #6 on: July 01, 2006, 06:19:13 PM »

I like the type you describe, Jack. The military used them on aircraft for years and I had one or two for awhile but they disappeared.  This one has a hole in the top that the toggle just barely sticks through. Not sure of the purpose of the hole because you sure can't push the toggle with the cover over it. I don't know if this one automatically turns the switch off when closed but the switch is spring loaded (Momentarily On) so it will close anyway unless the spring breaks. I'm going to check tomorrow to see if the cover pushes the toggle when closing. It probably does because it is curved at the top.

I can see why DD took them off because the driver's switch is next to the reversing switch, not a clever place. This switch should have been isolated from all the others in the first place and should have come from GM with a cover.

I sure won't remove mine  because it isn't a turbo and this switch will shut it down right now. I also checked it out today to make sure it works (Engine run switch ON, engine OFF)
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PD4107-152
PD4104-1274
Ash Flat, AR
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