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Author Topic: Generator Enclosure Heat  (Read 3687 times)
Sojourner
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« Reply #15 on: March 16, 2009, 03:56:52 AM »

You can correct the arc (EMF feed back) problem by adding a diode across the Snap Disc's tab. More detail later...need to get ready for doctor appointment today.
Maybe Sean or other electronic tech can chime in before I get back.

Sojourn for Christ, Gerald
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Ps 28 Blessed be the LORD, because he hath heard the voice of my supplications. The LORD is my strength and my shield; my heart trusted in him, and I am helped: therefore my heart greatly rejoiceth; and with my song will I praise him
JackConrad
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« Reply #16 on: March 16, 2009, 05:02:56 AM »

  If I wanted to put a high temp switch or alarm in the generator box, what temperature should I set for the alarm?  It was mentioned that under an auto hood will be 200F.
Again, thanks for all the help.
                                                 Art

Art,
   We set our RV Safety Systems alarm in the generator compartment to acrivate at 140 degrees.  We had the alarm go off once when the bilge blowers fans failed (actually, 1 fan failed causing the breaker to open).  PowerTech told me the generator should not be operated above 140 degrees.  Jack
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Sean
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« Reply #17 on: March 16, 2009, 09:38:37 AM »

You can correct the arc (EMF feed back) problem by adding a diode across the Snap Disc's tab. ...
Maybe Sean or other electronic tech can chime in before I get back.


Be glad to.  What Gerald is talking about is the tendency for any inductive DC load (meaning something with electromagnetic coils in it, such as a motor) to generate a high voltage on its operating circuit when it is switched off.  This is due to the collapse of the magnetic field.

The voltages thus generated can be so high that they are known to fry other components on the same circuit, such as an indicator lamp, for example.  More importantly, the voltage can cause an electric arc across the contact points of the switch as it is being opened.  This tends to shorten the life of the switch, and/or cause resistance in the switch (when closed) which adversely impacts performance of the device.

One simple way to deal with this is to install a "snubber" across the switch contacts.  Commonly, this is a diode with a reverse voltage rating a little higher than the operating voltage of the device.  If you have a "24 volt" bus, you'd want a diode with a reverse bias greater than 30 volts.  The diode is installed parallel to the switch, "backwards," by which I mean in such a way that it will not conduct current to operate the motor.

All of this, of course, applies to DC circuits only.  If you have an AC fan motor, this is not applicable.

-Sean
http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com
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« Reply #18 on: March 16, 2009, 05:45:36 PM »

Thank you Sean! Grin

So well said...thank you. Smiley

Have a great day. Grin

Sojourn for Christ, Gerald
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Ps 28 Blessed be the LORD, because he hath heard the voice of my supplications. The LORD is my strength and my shield; my heart trusted in him, and I am helped: therefore my heart greatly rejoiceth; and with my song will I praise him
ArtGill
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« Reply #19 on: March 16, 2009, 05:53:49 PM »

Again thanks.  Now I don't have any excuse not to build my box.

Art
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Art & Cheryll Gill
Morehead City, NC
1989 Eagle Model 20 NJT, 6v92ta
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