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Author Topic: Radiator leaking in Missouri  (Read 3144 times)
Fredward
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MC-5A #5401 8" roof raise 8V71 with MT647




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« on: March 23, 2009, 07:02:40 PM »

OK so there we were driving down I-35 on our way from Minnesota to Oklahoma. Stopped at a rest stop and coolant was leaking out the right rear. It must be the curb side radiator leaking. I've replaced the hoses already last winter so it must be the radiator. I called C&J Bus repair my local shop and they said the radiators for an MC-5 are kind of hard to come by so its a repair/rebuild. I had planned on having both radiators re done becuase it doesn't cool right. So for now we're at our destination and I carry plenty of water on board to we've been running with the radiator cap loose and stopping a couple of times to re-fill. Temperature has not gone above 190 so we're doing fine. Just keep plenty of water in it.

Whats it like removing the radiators? Looks like two (rusty) bolts on the bottom and nothing on the top.
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Fred Thomson
gus
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« Reply #1 on: March 23, 2009, 07:26:37 PM »

First check your hose clamps. It is normal for hose clamps to loosen because of rubber hose "set" after installation. You said you replaced them last winter.

Cancel all the above if you have silicone hoses.
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PD4107-152
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RickB
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« Reply #2 on: March 23, 2009, 08:04:12 PM »

Sorry for your misfortune.... I'm not sure if your radiators are exactly like the ones I just took out last week in my MCI 9 but if they are there is a hose on the bottom that you need to get a long screwdriver into to loosen the clamp, then the two rusty bolts on the bottom will quite possibly break off in the radiator assembly. I had two smaller high pressure hoses on the top of the radiator and a sidemount hose that is the normal larger size. There were also two mounts that come over the top of the radiators and they will possibly be quite rusty as well. You will need help to walk them out as they are around 120 lbs. each and if you have shutterstat system don't forget to remove the shutters. Also If you're already having them done I would call JD and have him send you new seals for the whole assembly. I chose to do it all at once. New larger rads, radiator seals and mounts and all the door seals and blower squirrel cage seals as well as the blower gearbox seals. It is so much work you don't ever want to do it again. Although some recommend stainless replacement bolts I went with matching replacements and alot of anti seize compound. Too bad you're not home in Minnesota Fred or I would come over and help. Heck, this is almost easy once you've done it... Well the key word in that sentence is certainly                 almost.
I would call Burt at ABC in Faribault he may have your radiator there. Hope this helps.

Rick
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Fredward
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« Reply #3 on: March 24, 2009, 08:51:22 PM »

Rick,
I expect it will come apart hard. Actually I've been planning on pulling the radiators and having them cleaned/rebuilt. Engine temp seems to creep up awful easily. I've just been adding water whenever I get a chance and it works ok. We're in the uncle-in-law's driveway in Oklahoma now dripping green fluid all over his concrete. We'll be heading home next weekend. I talked to Steve at C&J and he said its definitely a rebuild situation for MC-5 radiators. So i expect to break off the bolts on the botom and take in to be rebuilt. I wonder if I can fit any larger radiator in the space?
Fred
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Fred Thomson
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« Reply #4 on: March 24, 2009, 09:49:39 PM »

I think they have about covered the radiator rebuild info but if you put in a Cummins L10 it won't overheat when you get done with the radiators. I did my radiators and the 8V71 still ran hot.

Just my way

HTH

Melbo
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RickB
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« Reply #5 on: March 25, 2009, 04:35:36 AM »

Fred,

I would imagine that if you are running the same motor as I am that you may have the same radiators which are part# 6R-1-28 if they were made by Young and part#6R-1-38 if they were made by Long manufacturing. The # should be on a plate on the inside top of the radiator visible when looking through the upper blower door. If that is the case you may be able to upgrade to the 6K-1-5 from Diesel radiator in Chicago. Unfortunately, it is almost cheaper to buy new rather than rebuild your existing smaller radiators. The cost to rebuild my originals was within $100 of the cost to buy new, bigger ones. They were $985 each and they take two weeks to build. Shipping was another $200. You will have to do a minor modification to the bulkhead if your radiator area is the same dimensions as the MCI9 but Gumpy gave awesome directions on how to do it at his website. If you are waiting to do this until you get back give me a call and I'll see if I can come help you. Sorry you are white kuckling it right now, there aren't many more tiring things than long drives staring at temp gauges. The last post by melbo was kinda unsettling I must admit but everyone I have talked to said that going with the larger radiators will keep any well tuned 8v71 that has reasonable compression running super cool.

Hope that's the case.

Good luck Fred,

Rick
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Hartley
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« Reply #6 on: March 25, 2009, 07:22:37 AM »

GREEN Fluid?

You probably have the wrong coolant in that system..

Should be RED or ORANGE ( For Detroits ! ) Rotella ELC or equivalent
to dexcool rated for 2-Stroke Detroits.

Sorry, Just had to point that out...

Type of coolant "does" make an issue...

Dave..
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Utahclaimjumper
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« Reply #7 on: March 25, 2009, 07:46:15 AM »

There are many other coolants that do not contain silicates that are also green, as such, does meet DD specs.>>>Dan
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edroelle
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« Reply #8 on: March 25, 2009, 07:48:35 AM »

Before you buy the bigger radiator, 6K-1-5 from Diesel radiator in Chicago, take a tape measure to yours.  I think the radiator height on an MCI 5 is substantially less than an MCI 8 or 9.  If so, it would take more modifications than just denting the one area in front of the radiator inner corner.

Ed Roelle
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luvrbus
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« Reply #9 on: March 25, 2009, 08:00:16 AM »

The red ,orange and purple anti freeze are just extended ,pre charged anti freeze DD dealers sell the green also I buy my green from FreightLiner, the Alliance brand for $12.00 per gal by the case or $21.00 for the red and using 14 gals I go with green and add my own chemicals for 7 bucks with the test strips      good luck
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gyrocrasher
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« Reply #10 on: March 25, 2009, 09:54:21 AM »


 Sorry you are white kuckling it right now,

Rick

I HATE it when I kuckle. Cheesy Cheesy Cheesy
Sorry; I couldn't stop myself!! Mitch
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Hartley
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« Reply #11 on: March 25, 2009, 10:18:45 AM »

The red ,orange and purple anti freeze are just extended ,pre charged anti freeze DD dealers sell the green also I buy my green from FreightLiner, the Alliance brand for $12.00 per gal by the case or $21.00 for the red and using 14 gals I go with green and add my own chemicals for 7 bucks with the test strips      good luck

Well, Exxxcuse me... Cool Cool Cool
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gus
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« Reply #12 on: March 25, 2009, 03:36:03 PM »

My 671 manual calls for poly glycol (Green) anti-freeze which was the only type existing in '54.

My understanding is that DD only changed to newer type AF when they went to four stroke engines?

When did two strokes change to other colors?
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JackConrad
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« Reply #13 on: March 25, 2009, 03:43:12 PM »

When did two strokes change to other colors?

I think it was when they went to wet sleeves. Something about cavitation eating holes through the sleeves.  Jack
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gumpy
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« Reply #14 on: March 25, 2009, 08:21:38 PM »

Fred,

Sorry to hear the problem.

I also had leaking coolant on our trip. Broke a clamp on the main tube off the bottom of the radiator. Lost about 3 gallons before I saw it.
Easy fix. 

Let me know if you need anything. I'll be home this weekend.

craig


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Craig Shepard
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