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Author Topic: Radiator leaking in Missouri  (Read 3217 times)
Fredward
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« on: March 23, 2009, 07:02:40 PM »

OK so there we were driving down I-35 on our way from Minnesota to Oklahoma. Stopped at a rest stop and coolant was leaking out the right rear. It must be the curb side radiator leaking. I've replaced the hoses already last winter so it must be the radiator. I called C&J Bus repair my local shop and they said the radiators for an MC-5 are kind of hard to come by so its a repair/rebuild. I had planned on having both radiators re done becuase it doesn't cool right. So for now we're at our destination and I carry plenty of water on board to we've been running with the radiator cap loose and stopping a couple of times to re-fill. Temperature has not gone above 190 so we're doing fine. Just keep plenty of water in it.

Whats it like removing the radiators? Looks like two (rusty) bolts on the bottom and nothing on the top.
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Fred Thomson
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« Reply #1 on: March 23, 2009, 07:26:37 PM »

First check your hose clamps. It is normal for hose clamps to loosen because of rubber hose "set" after installation. You said you replaced them last winter.

Cancel all the above if you have silicone hoses.
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RickB
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« Reply #2 on: March 23, 2009, 08:04:12 PM »

Sorry for your misfortune.... I'm not sure if your radiators are exactly like the ones I just took out last week in my MCI 9 but if they are there is a hose on the bottom that you need to get a long screwdriver into to loosen the clamp, then the two rusty bolts on the bottom will quite possibly break off in the radiator assembly. I had two smaller high pressure hoses on the top of the radiator and a sidemount hose that is the normal larger size. There were also two mounts that come over the top of the radiators and they will possibly be quite rusty as well. You will need help to walk them out as they are around 120 lbs. each and if you have shutterstat system don't forget to remove the shutters. Also If you're already having them done I would call JD and have him send you new seals for the whole assembly. I chose to do it all at once. New larger rads, radiator seals and mounts and all the door seals and blower squirrel cage seals as well as the blower gearbox seals. It is so much work you don't ever want to do it again. Although some recommend stainless replacement bolts I went with matching replacements and alot of anti seize compound. Too bad you're not home in Minnesota Fred or I would come over and help. Heck, this is almost easy once you've done it... Well the key word in that sentence is certainly                 almost.
I would call Burt at ABC in Faribault he may have your radiator there. Hope this helps.

Rick
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Fredward
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« Reply #3 on: March 24, 2009, 08:51:22 PM »

Rick,
I expect it will come apart hard. Actually I've been planning on pulling the radiators and having them cleaned/rebuilt. Engine temp seems to creep up awful easily. I've just been adding water whenever I get a chance and it works ok. We're in the uncle-in-law's driveway in Oklahoma now dripping green fluid all over his concrete. We'll be heading home next weekend. I talked to Steve at C&J and he said its definitely a rebuild situation for MC-5 radiators. So i expect to break off the bolts on the botom and take in to be rebuilt. I wonder if I can fit any larger radiator in the space?
Fred
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Fred Thomson
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« Reply #4 on: March 24, 2009, 09:49:39 PM »

I think they have about covered the radiator rebuild info but if you put in a Cummins L10 it won't overheat when you get done with the radiators. I did my radiators and the 8V71 still ran hot.

Just my way

HTH

Melbo
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« Reply #5 on: March 25, 2009, 04:35:36 AM »

Fred,

I would imagine that if you are running the same motor as I am that you may have the same radiators which are part# 6R-1-28 if they were made by Young and part#6R-1-38 if they were made by Long manufacturing. The # should be on a plate on the inside top of the radiator visible when looking through the upper blower door. If that is the case you may be able to upgrade to the 6K-1-5 from Diesel radiator in Chicago. Unfortunately, it is almost cheaper to buy new rather than rebuild your existing smaller radiators. The cost to rebuild my originals was within $100 of the cost to buy new, bigger ones. They were $985 each and they take two weeks to build. Shipping was another $200. You will have to do a minor modification to the bulkhead if your radiator area is the same dimensions as the MCI9 but Gumpy gave awesome directions on how to do it at his website. If you are waiting to do this until you get back give me a call and I'll see if I can come help you. Sorry you are white kuckling it right now, there aren't many more tiring things than long drives staring at temp gauges. The last post by melbo was kinda unsettling I must admit but everyone I have talked to said that going with the larger radiators will keep any well tuned 8v71 that has reasonable compression running super cool.

Hope that's the case.

Good luck Fred,

Rick
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Hartley
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« Reply #6 on: March 25, 2009, 07:22:37 AM »

GREEN Fluid?

You probably have the wrong coolant in that system..

Should be RED or ORANGE ( For Detroits ! ) Rotella ELC or equivalent
to dexcool rated for 2-Stroke Detroits.

Sorry, Just had to point that out...

Type of coolant "does" make an issue...

Dave..
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« Reply #7 on: March 25, 2009, 07:46:15 AM »

There are many other coolants that do not contain silicates that are also green, as such, does meet DD specs.>>>Dan
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« Reply #8 on: March 25, 2009, 07:48:35 AM »

Before you buy the bigger radiator, 6K-1-5 from Diesel radiator in Chicago, take a tape measure to yours.  I think the radiator height on an MCI 5 is substantially less than an MCI 8 or 9.  If so, it would take more modifications than just denting the one area in front of the radiator inner corner.

Ed Roelle
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« Reply #9 on: March 25, 2009, 08:00:16 AM »

The red ,orange and purple anti freeze are just extended ,pre charged anti freeze DD dealers sell the green also I buy my green from FreightLiner, the Alliance brand for $12.00 per gal by the case or $21.00 for the red and using 14 gals I go with green and add my own chemicals for 7 bucks with the test strips      good luck
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« Reply #10 on: March 25, 2009, 09:54:21 AM »


 Sorry you are white kuckling it right now,

Rick

I HATE it when I kuckle. Cheesy Cheesy Cheesy
Sorry; I couldn't stop myself!! Mitch
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« Reply #11 on: March 25, 2009, 10:18:45 AM »

The red ,orange and purple anti freeze are just extended ,pre charged anti freeze DD dealers sell the green also I buy my green from FreightLiner, the Alliance brand for $12.00 per gal by the case or $21.00 for the red and using 14 gals I go with green and add my own chemicals for 7 bucks with the test strips      good luck

Well, Exxxcuse me... Cool Cool Cool
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gus
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« Reply #12 on: March 25, 2009, 03:36:03 PM »

My 671 manual calls for poly glycol (Green) anti-freeze which was the only type existing in '54.

My understanding is that DD only changed to newer type AF when they went to four stroke engines?

When did two strokes change to other colors?
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JackConrad
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« Reply #13 on: March 25, 2009, 03:43:12 PM »

When did two strokes change to other colors?

I think it was when they went to wet sleeves. Something about cavitation eating holes through the sleeves.  Jack
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« Reply #14 on: March 25, 2009, 08:21:38 PM »

Fred,

Sorry to hear the problem.

I also had leaking coolant on our trip. Broke a clamp on the main tube off the bottom of the radiator. Lost about 3 gallons before I saw it.
Easy fix. 

Let me know if you need anything. I'll be home this weekend.

craig


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Craig Shepard
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Fredward
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« Reply #15 on: March 25, 2009, 08:29:57 PM »

Craig,
Could you stop at the Iowa border and pick up my toad for me? Its in the lot at Diamond Joe's Casino at Exit 214 on I-35. Oh thats right, you won't be coming that way.

Did you get a little snow out there in Wyoming? They're talking snow here in Oklahoma for crying out loud!
Fred
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Fred Thomson
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« Reply #16 on: March 25, 2009, 08:50:05 PM »

It is possible that it is not your radiator. I sprung a leek on my 7 and it was one of the lines that runs from  the top of the radiator to the overflow tank. It was an old metal pipe that was rusted through. The location that it was in it was hard to determine where the coolant was coming from.
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« Reply #17 on: March 26, 2009, 05:35:52 AM »

We're in the uncle-in-law's driveway in Oklahoma now dripping green fluid all over his concrete.

The problem is that coolant stains. Don't ask me how I know Grin. Usually it works to keep it hosed off, but if it soaks in overnight, then it leaves a stain (for me anyways). I went to the auto parts store, and they had a parking lot cleaner. It was about 8 bucks a gallon, and man was it powerful smelling. I put it down, and overnight it didn't do anything. A night later, we got a bucket washing rain storm. I looked at the drive, and the stain was gone. Moral of the story, use enough water to rinse it off.

God bless,

John
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Brian Diehl
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« Reply #18 on: March 26, 2009, 06:31:37 AM »

Fred, what is your TOAD doing away from the bus and you?
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gus
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« Reply #19 on: March 26, 2009, 07:33:01 PM »

Jack,

My understanding is that all DD 71 Series are dry sleeves. 

If this is not correct I'm ready to be informed because I sure don't need cavitation problems!!

At least I have no doubt that my 671 has dry sleeves.
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JackConrad
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« Reply #20 on: March 27, 2009, 04:53:50 AM »

I heard or read somewhere that the 92 series were wet sleeves.  Maybe Don Fairchild or someone with more DD knowledge will chime in.  Jack
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« Reply #21 on: March 27, 2009, 05:17:27 AM »

Jack, the 92 series are not a complete wet sleeve per say only 2 inches of the sleeve at the top comes in contact with the coolant.And they have always used the green antifreeze with DD specs with no problems , no distilled water was ever mention in the manual they only water DD tells not to use is ditch water LOL.Some people waste their money using the pre-charged extend life antifreeze with distilled water in the 2 strokes but they do what works for them    good luck
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« Reply #22 on: March 27, 2009, 05:45:02 AM »

Jack, the 92 series are not a complete wet sleeve per say only 2 inches of the sleeve at the top comes in contact with the coolant.And they have always used the green antifreeze with DD specs with no problems , no distilled water was ever mention in the manual they only water DD tells not to use is ditch water LOL.Some people waste their money using the pre-charged extend life antifreeze with distilled water in the 2 strokes but they do what works for them    good luck

Thanks for the information.  I guess I was kinda partly correct (about 2" worth LOL)  Jack
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« Reply #23 on: March 27, 2009, 06:00:25 AM »

My Series 60 has always had plain green coolant.  No Detroit Diesel dealer or anyone else has ever mentioned any issues.  I do keep the SCAs up by testing at least once a year.
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« Reply #24 on: March 27, 2009, 06:14:40 AM »

Craig,
Could you stop at the Iowa border and pick up my toad for me? Its in the lot at Diamond Joe's Casino at Exit 214 on I-35. Oh thats right, you won't be coming that way.

Did you get a little snow out there in Wyoming? They're talking snow here in Oklahoma for crying out loud!
Fred

Yeah, I won't be coming that way.

We got snow. Not a lot, but the wind was so bad yesterday, the visibility was in the negative numbers!  Some of the worst I've seen it and I grew up here. I can't figure out why the had not closed the roads I was on. We made it, though. My water manifolds froze up because of the cross wind blowing. My water bay heater only runs when the house heat runs, and since I was running the coach heater, it froze. Didn't take long to thaw it once we got to Laramie.

Heading out this morning for home.
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Craig Shepard
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« Reply #25 on: March 27, 2009, 06:19:28 AM »

Belfert, up to this year you could buy the pre-charged extended life antifreeze in the green but the suppliers have changed to colors now fwiw  
good luck
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Fredward
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« Reply #26 on: March 27, 2009, 09:17:41 AM »

Brian,
The Toad isn't here because I tried using a crummy "universal" tow bar which by the time we got to the Iowa border, i decided to quit using. I was spending so much time watching the rearview camera, stopping to check and then watching the camera again that we decided to get along without the toad. Real glad we made that decision.

I'm going to look for a used/rebuilt Blue Ox and do it the right way.
Fred
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Fred Thomson
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« Reply #27 on: March 27, 2009, 09:25:18 AM »

I'm going to look for a used/rebuilt Blue Ox and do it the right way.
Fred

Fred,
   Look at www.hitchtrader.com  Just click on "BUY"  Great prices on used towing equipment.  That is where we found our M&G and the baseplates for our Roadmaster towbar.  Both at 1/2 or less than new from the manufacturer.  Jack
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