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Author Topic: Front Wheel Bearing on MCI 9  (Read 4620 times)
johns4104s
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« on: April 18, 2009, 10:41:03 AM »



After changing out the oil bath to grease on the front passenger side. On inspecting the front outside bearing (large one) that the race itself looks good, no pits , no marks. But were it has been stood in one position it has rust on the upper front side of the can. I dont think I should go back with it. so my question is. Can I just change out just the bearing?? Or does the bearing come as a set. The race inside the hub looks in good shape.

Thanks

John
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JackConrad
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« Reply #1 on: April 18, 2009, 10:50:06 AM »

   Each front wheel has 2 bearings, an inner and an outer bearing.  Each bearing consist on the inner race with the "cage" and all the rollers as well as an outer race ( the part that is driven into the hub). I was always told that when replacing a bearing, replace both the inner race (with the rollers) as well as the outer race. That is the only way I have ever purchased them. I do not know if you can by just one race. I would also replace the seal in the hub.  Jack
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« Reply #2 on: April 18, 2009, 11:02:20 AM »

Defineitly Replace as a set, Steering is all that's steering you and your $$$$$$$ coach. Bearing set $50.00-$70.00. Good math. Good luck.   
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johns4104s
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« Reply #3 on: April 18, 2009, 01:03:40 PM »

I totally agree the best way is to change both the bearing and the race, but i know it is not easy to get the part (I assume that this is the race) out of the inside of the hub. The last time I had a well known truck place change a race out on my 4104, they beat and beat it to get it out, them they hammerd the new one in, I hoped they got it in strieght, they did. Not a pretty site. They did damage one of the studs.
I was hoping to avoid all this
Does anyone have a better way??

Thanks

John
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« Reply #4 on: April 18, 2009, 03:21:20 PM »

John,
I have a better way.  Don't ever go back to that shop for any reason.
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gumpy
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« Reply #5 on: April 18, 2009, 04:15:14 PM »

There are details of how I did it here:  http://www.gumpydog.com/bus/MC9_WIP/Mechanical/Steer_Axle/steer_axle.htm
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Craig Shepard
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johns4104s
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« Reply #6 on: April 18, 2009, 08:23:21 PM »

Craig,

Thank you, g
Great detail, I feel better about changing out the races now. I'm sure its not as easy as it looks, Were did you find the stainless bar?

John
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gumpy
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« Reply #7 on: April 19, 2009, 04:48:06 PM »

Craig,

Thank you, g
Great detail, I feel better about changing out the races now. I'm sure its not as easy as it looks, Were did you find the stainless bar?

John

A neighbor brought it to me from work. I would expect if you have a machine shop near you or a steel supplier, they'd have something comparable. Probably doesn't have to be stainless.
I would expect a mild steel bar would work as well. Even a large flat punch would work. You just have to work it around the race taking short even blows to drive it out.
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Craig Shepard
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« Reply #8 on: April 19, 2009, 05:35:34 PM »

 Another option to remove the race, is to weld a bead around the inner diameter.  Race shrinks, fall out.  Used this method many times on the farm.

to each his own

Dick Egler
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johns4104s
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« Reply #9 on: April 19, 2009, 06:05:19 PM »

Craig,

I got it out, now I need to pick up a new bearing and race. Race Temken 6320  bearing is a Bower 6379 ( I wounder why they are both not the same manuactorer?). I guess I will try the truck shops and a bearing company we have in Beaumont.

Welding, great idea, I have been around welding for 44 years, not just cause of this challenge, but I really wish I had taken time out to learn to weld.

John
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Dreamscape
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« Reply #10 on: April 19, 2009, 07:19:28 PM »

John, Bearing Mfg. is nothing to worry about, they all have certain specs and tolerances that are pretty much standard. At least that has been my experience.

Hope you are able to finish it soon and move onto the rear brakes!

Good Luck,

~Paul~
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NewbeeMC9
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« Reply #11 on: April 20, 2009, 04:43:42 AM »

Craig,

I got it out, now I need to pick up a new bearing and race. Race Temken 6320  bearing is a Bower 6379 ( I wounder why they are both not the same manuactorer?). I guess I will try the truck shops and a bearing company we have in Beaumont.

Welding, great idea, I have been around welding for 44 years, not just cause of this challenge, but I really wish I had taken time out to learn to weld.

John

I don't know the specifics of this one, but IIRC the numbers should be the same,  may have been replaced with out the race change over years.  Bearing house can help you there.
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gumpy
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« Reply #12 on: April 20, 2009, 06:06:35 AM »

Craig,

I got it out, now I need to pick up a new bearing and race. Race Temken 6320  bearing is a Bower 6379 ( I wounder why they are both not the same manuactorer?). I guess I will try the truck shops and a bearing company we have in Beaumont.

Welding, great idea, I have been around welding for 44 years, not just cause of this challenge, but I really wish I had taken time out to learn to weld.

John

I agree with Paul on this. Mfg doesn't really matter. Both Timken and Bower are good, tough I would choose Timken if I had a choice just because I've used them all my life.  I think some of mine that I got from the bus repair shop might have been Bower, though. Don't remember now.

If you have problems getting them, let me know. I can point you to other sources, but any decent bearing place should have them or be able to get them for you. These are not uncommon.


craig
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Craig Shepard
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« Reply #13 on: April 20, 2009, 09:34:14 AM »

My very first question on reading this thread was "what kind of oil was in that hub that it let rust form".  Really!  I thought oil bath was superior to grease pack.  Am I wrong?

John
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NewbeeMC9
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« Reply #14 on: April 20, 2009, 09:38:04 AM »


Oil bath doesn't cover the whole bearing. so if the bearing sits for a long time the oil does not get stirred up and the top part of the bearing can get dry and moisture from air cause rust.  good reason to move bus around every so often.
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