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Author Topic: Need engineering help understanding my check valve flow direction - Please!  (Read 4022 times)
plyonsMC9
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« on: June 28, 2009, 11:22:58 AM »

Hi Busnuts!

My generator which cuts out when the fuel sloshes in the tank is now about 90% fixed - now it only stops when the fuel is down about 50-60% AND I have a strong brake application.  If that happens then I need to re-prime.

So, following busnut suggestions, I now have my check valve to install - purchased from grainger.  BUT no flow arrows on the check valve for us non-engineer trained.
The recommended checkvalve is model 1A859.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/productIndex.shtml?from=Search&newSrch=yes&operator=keywordSearch&search_type=keyword&action=Go!&QueryString=1a859&submit.x=29&submit.y=12

There is a diagram on the side - could someone please help me understand which way to mount the valve?  All I have is attached below - and I'm sure that hieroglyphics mean SOMETHING!!   Grin  Cheesy  Grin

The valve has female 3/8 outlets on both sides.

Thank you!
Phil

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« Reply #1 on: June 28, 2009, 12:04:10 PM »

Phil;   I believe the valve is showing flow from left to right. The symbol shows the ball closing flow from right to left. Test it with air first
in case I'm wrong. I've done that before. Good luck....  Cable
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« Reply #2 on: June 28, 2009, 12:45:44 PM »

Thanks Cable !! And I will run the air test.  Great idea.   Grin

Best Regards, Phil
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Len Silva
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« Reply #3 on: June 28, 2009, 12:47:43 PM »

Just blow through it.
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« Reply #4 on: June 28, 2009, 02:04:48 PM »

Hmmm.  I apparently don't have enough "wind" to blow through it - wonder if the GPM is too high for this application?  Listed as 8 GPM on the check valve.    I know the generator draws about 1 gal p/hr.

Thanks  - Phil
 
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« Reply #5 on: June 28, 2009, 02:21:14 PM »

Got a compressor? I think pressure is your problem. You must open the valve before you get any flow. I expell lots of balloon juice with very little pressure...Cable
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plyonsMC9
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« Reply #6 on: June 28, 2009, 02:33:54 PM »

Thank you - will use the compressor.  So, does it look like I am using the correct check valve?  I'm double checking as I need to seat-fit on the 3/8" fitting, and also, I think that if I get the valve covered w/ fuel, I may have a problem returning it if it is the wrong (expensive) model.

Thanks!
Phil
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Len Silva
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« Reply #7 on: June 28, 2009, 02:34:43 PM »

I don't think that check valve is going to work for you. Looks like a hydraulic valve rated at 2000 psi. I think the check is going to be way too strong for your fuel pump.
You need a fuel check valve, one that you could blow through with negligible resistance.

Maybe this one  http://www.garageautotools.com/S-U-R-R-SRRCKV7-p/srrckv7.htm

Len
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« Reply #8 on: June 28, 2009, 02:47:00 PM »

Thanks Len - that is very logical, and I appreciate the alternative solution.  That saves me some headaches - and I got enough headaches aready!!   Wrico made a recommendation, and Grainger translated - but I think something was lost in the translation.   Cheesy


Kind Regards, Phil
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« Reply #9 on: June 28, 2009, 02:50:17 PM »

The same check as used on your engine will work great, and provide you with a working spare on the road.
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« Reply #10 on: June 28, 2009, 04:17:02 PM »

Under specs cracking pressure is 5psi..............I do think your air compressor can handle that Smiley

 Brass are for air and hyd. per spec Smiley Smiley


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« Reply #11 on: June 28, 2009, 04:54:32 PM »

Phil, are you pushing fuel through the check valve or pulling it,pushing it use a .4 crack pressure pulling it use a .1 cracking pressure valve.
The valve Len recommends is a good valve but the cost  from DD is outrageous 80 bucks and remember some are 45 ,90 degree and vertical installed valves all check valves are not created equal           good luck
« Last Edit: June 28, 2009, 04:56:41 PM by luvrbus » Logged

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Len Silva
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« Reply #12 on: June 28, 2009, 05:47:25 PM »

Actually, I'm having a hard time understanding why you need a check valve.  If you are having problems starting the generator after it sits a while, then it makes sense that it is loosing prime and a check valve will help.

If the generator if failing going down the road, then you have another problem.  I would suspect a leak in your pick up tube which is allowing air in when the fuel sloshes away from it.  Don't most electric fuel pumps have a check built in?
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« Reply #13 on: June 28, 2009, 06:26:07 PM »

Len

The check valve has nothing to do with the fuel needed to run the generator.

The need for the check valve has to do with the coach engine pulling the fuel away from the genny and starving it for fuel

Oh and the standard aluminum check valve available at your local truck parts house will do just fine

and I believe the opposite is also possible

hope this helps

Chris
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« Reply #14 on: June 28, 2009, 07:18:39 PM »

Phil,
Are you using the same pickup for both the engine and generator?  Generally not a good practice, should be separate pickup tubes and the gen tube should not extend as far into the tank as the engine tube so that the genny cannot run you out of fuel.
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