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Author Topic: I need to build a quite air compressor  (Read 3428 times)
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« on: July 10, 2009, 03:02:31 PM »

I need to build a quite air compressor.  I use an air compressor to flush the toilet in my coach.  I had a piston type in the coach when it was first built.  When it went bad a bought a new reed type compressor that could wake the dead when it comes on. 
I found a good quite compressor but the price was $900.00 and that is a lot to just flush it down the pipe. 
I would like to build a new air compressor using a freezer or refrigerator compressor.  I am trying to find out if anyone has done this and if so how good did it work?
All info will help

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« Reply #1 on: July 10, 2009, 03:32:09 PM »


What about one of the Firestone "Riderite" DC air compressors? If you hook it up to an auxiliary tank it would supply just about everything you need and they are pretty quiet.

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Jim Shepherd


« Reply #2 on: July 11, 2009, 08:51:07 AM »

Jack, here it my post on BNO to your question:

>>>>>>>>>>>>BNO post>>>>>>>>>>>

I was the one that mentioned the AC compressor (I think on the other board). It uses the old York piston compressor. A good link is: http://www.offroaders.com/info/tech-corner/project-cj7/project-cj7-onboard-air.htm.

I have used this type system on my '56 Chevy with air suspension for years. The oil does not seem to leave the compressor. I put a filter on to catch it and it did not catch much.

My plans are to drive it off the generator engine along with a hydraulic pump for the jacks.

The biggest issue is that the compressor gets cooled by the returning freon in an AC system. That, of course does not happen when it is converted to an air compressor. However, I think that setting it up with a pressure switch and it's own tank (plumbed with a check valve to the aux air tank) would allow you to run the compressor for short periods of time.

I don't need air when parked, so driving it with my generator for a few minutes before I leave a spot where I am on the pole (or when I am boon docking switch it on when normally running the generator)make sense.

For those of you who need air when parked, you could use either a 120 V motor or one of the big a** 12V blower motors to drive it.

By definition, they are pretty quiet. They are used on most semi trucks, so are available in the junk yard. Most of the trucks I have seen use the 210 CCI (was York) which is good for about 3-4 CFM.

Kind a kluged up, but should give you what you need if you like to fabricate (and Jack, I know you do {grin}).
« Last Edit: July 11, 2009, 08:52:52 AM by rv_safetyman » Logged

Jim Shepherd
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« Reply #3 on: July 11, 2009, 09:41:06 AM »


Look at the silent aire site for airbrushing studio compressors real quiet


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« Reply #4 on: July 11, 2009, 10:46:18 AM »

Since this subject is near and dear to my heart (I am always looking for a quieter way to generate our parked on-board air) I am following this thread (and it's twin on BNO) with some interest.

What about one of the Firestone "Riderite" DC air compressors? If you hook it up to an auxiliary tank it would supply just about everything you need and they are pretty quiet.

Dallas, this looks to be completely manually controlled.  IOTW, no compressor control based on pressure -- it depends on the driver to operate the compressor when the gauge drops below the needed PSI.  I doubt, by itself, that this would be a good solution for an air toilet.  A pressure switch could be fitted, I suppose, to automate the operation.

Look at the silent aire site for airbrushing studio compressors real quiet

These all cut out between 40-55psi.  Jack's toilet requires 60-65psi to operate.

Also, on both of the above suggestions, note that the toilet requires about two gallons of air at 60psi for each flush.  So you need a fairly good sized tank, and these little low-volume compressors will run a long time bringing such a tank up to pressure.

Under normal circumstances, it's probably a long time between flushes, and this would not be much of a liability.  However, I know from experience that there are, ahem, times when one needs to flush the unit several times in a row to clear the hopper.  You may not want to wait, say, five minutes between flushes to build the required quantity of air.



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« Reply #5 on: July 12, 2009, 04:24:43 AM »

my own current plan of attack is to treat this as a 120 volt problem.  I plan to get a decent sized compressor head, probably in the 4 to 6 rated cfm range, and run it at half speed with an undersized motor.  I would install a good baffled air cleaner intake to cut down on intake noise.  I will air-mount it in the auxiliary tank bay under the drivers seat on my bus (MC5C) and connect it to the auxiliary tank through a filter/dryer.  I would set the pressure on/off to let it cycle and keep the bus aired up.

I don't need this for sanitary/plumbing purposes, just to keep air up, so I think it will work.  Running a bigger pump slower should keep the noise lower, I don't need a tank on the compressor, and isolation mounting and damping of the air intake should do the rest.  I think...


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« Reply #6 on: July 12, 2009, 08:21:01 AM »

Look at this site http://www.generatordepot.us/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=107.  Good Luck, TomC

Tom & Donna Christman. '77 AMGeneral 10240B; 8V-71TATAIC V730.
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« Reply #7 on: July 14, 2009, 11:45:23 PM »

I saw Microphor air toilet & 2 microphor 12v compressors at local swap meet last Sat. Also one rebuild kit for compressor.He wanted $200. for a compressor & $ 40. for kit. Call me if you want me to check it next Sat. Skip @ 253 224 0524
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« Reply #8 on: July 15, 2009, 06:04:37 AM »

Here are some concepts to consider.

Use a 12v small compressor to a small tank to flush the potty. Install an on/off switch for the compressor in the bathroom. Plumb the ping tank into the house air supply with a check valve, so you don't have to run the 12v except when you need it.

By using a 12v compressor, you don't have to fire the genny or go through the inverter to run the potty pump when you are dry camping.

Richard Entrekin
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