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Author Topic: Covering windows from the inside of the bus concern and ?  (Read 4350 times)
scanzel
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« on: August 27, 2009, 06:39:40 PM »

I have a Prevost and because we like the view from the inside we are retaining as many windows in their original state as possible. But I will need to cover over two windows but I do not want to skin from the outside because I have not found anything thin and rigid enough to do it from the outside. So my question is for the ones that retained their windows but covered them from the inside, what did you use to cover them so it cannot be seen from the outside when up close and is there any concern of heat build up between the covering and the glass. I was thinking of some thin lywood painted black against the glass and then when I spray foam,cover the plywood before I put up the final wall covering of 1/2" plywood. Thank You.
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Steve Canzellarini
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« Reply #1 on: August 27, 2009, 06:46:42 PM »

I don't know about covering from the inside but we do make window covers for the outside.  I believe they are .080 thick.  I can confirm this tomorrow.  You can call me at 1-800-468-5287 x232.

Steve
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Dreamscape
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« Reply #2 on: August 27, 2009, 07:00:32 PM »

You might apply just a real dark shade of tint to the inside. Remember black is hot. I painted the inside of some window when I had a Ford Eoconline van, looked great from the outside. I wouldn't do that again though.

FWIW,

Paul
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« Reply #3 on: August 27, 2009, 10:35:32 PM »

Steve  I only have 3/4 of a window  above the sink covered by the upper cabinet. I painted the back of the cabinet black before I put it up, you never see it from the outside. When I bought the Bus the restroom window was painted black from the inside.    BUR
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1980 Prevost   8V71TA  6 speed stick
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« Reply #4 on: August 28, 2009, 04:20:08 AM »

Steve, on some Provost they have the lock rubber on the inside with a metal ring on it for emergency use, make sure the lock rubber is on the out side in case the window is ever damaged and you have to replace it. Now as to blacking out the window. You have options. Your original plan would work for you, another way to do it, purchase window black out material from MCI that they use to black out the tops of the wind shields it is very good and last almost as long as the bus does it comes wide enough to cover the window in one piece. To put it on I recommend taking out the window to put the film on, reason for that is there is a little bit of shrinkage in the film if you put it on with the window in place and trimming it to the rubber edge it will shrink leaving a line of exposure, by taking the window out you can trim it to the out side edge thus a leaving that problem. When you put it back in then the rubber is holding the film in. The real trick to putting the blackout film on is to make sure the window is well covered with fluid.  Like window cleaner or what they recommend from MCI. The reason you need to do that is to help get out the air bubbles. Once you've got it wet place the film on,then starting in the middle  using a hard piece of plastic ( you can use a credit card or bondo spreader) push the liquid out to the edge of the window in all directions. Take your time being sure to get every air bubble out. When your done and you find some tiny air bubble you can use a needle to prick the bubble then use a hair dryer to help dry it out and use the plastic to push it down but be careful not to tare the film where you have pierced it.

busdesigner
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steamguy56
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« Reply #5 on: August 28, 2009, 05:18:52 AM »

Steve
I just finished the job of covering the windows that I wanted gone, Prevost has the blanks. They are alum. with a primered outer side. One blank covers two windows. I used 6 blanks, Very expensive. For just 2 windows, I would not go this direction. You have to pull the drip rail, 2 per side. Widows and frames, stress over the choice of what caulk to use, what rivets to use, ect, ect, ect,. I will have to admit it did make for a pretty job. It's raining out, think I'll go for a spin (see if she leaks)
Danny
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« Reply #6 on: August 28, 2009, 10:20:16 AM »

We have a 102a3 MCI and did the "Poor mans build". It looks like you bus has the rubber trim around it, If so this my work for you.
http://singinglandcruiser.blogspot.com/search/label/Window%20Skins
Hope it helps, M&C Grin
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« Reply #7 on: November 09, 2009, 07:22:41 AM »

I might need to make a new thread about this but  I was wondering If there is a company that makes window plugs or skins simmalier to what they made in this: http://singinglandcruiser.blogspot.com/search/label/Window%20Skins
I just got  a 102a3 and have  a few cracked windows. I do not want to skin  the whole bus  and would kind of like to keep it looking like a bus from the outside, but was planning on covering up some of the windows on the  inside.
I am also trying  to keep this conversion as  low  budjet as  possible.
If I can find stock non-cracked wondows locally  I might  go that route and just cover them from the inside.

Thanks.
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robertglines1
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« Reply #8 on: November 09, 2009, 10:10:35 AM »

Have 89 prevost. like you like the wide open feeling leaving as many windows in as possible..Covered several areas with 20ga steel formed from top down.Tacked top from inside to steel bus frame(window) then kept pulling in around radius and tacking. insulated then applied wall covering.. on another area used mirror reflective tint behind a ref.that you could see from outside.. uses on top front windows and partially on front windows above viewing area..also side windows down about a foot from top.really helps on heat from sun. product came from LOWES..it gives you reflective values AND visibility ratings on package.
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« Reply #9 on: November 09, 2009, 02:18:54 PM »

You don't really need anything solid like wood or metal. Paint is the easiest and best.

However, use white, not black. Black is a tremendous heat absorber and will make the bus unbearable in summer.

How do I know this? My bus had many black painted windows and I finally had to scrape all off I could reach. We used curtains to cover all we could and I will paint the rest white when I have things out of the way. Some I will never be able to reach.

The heat absorbed by the black paint is nice in cold weather but you pay the price in summer.

Very dark tinted plastic available anywhere will probably do as well as paint but it will be hot like paint, probably not as much though.
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« Reply #10 on: November 09, 2009, 05:15:41 PM »

Phil,

Where do you live? I have a buddy (Doug1968) that has a 102a3 and he pulled out several windows, he may still have them. He lives in Vancouver WA.

Other than that, you might go to WM, HD or Lowes and get some window tint film. I've heard it works pretty good, and just sticks on.

Paul
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grantgoold
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« Reply #11 on: November 09, 2009, 08:21:28 PM »

I did exactly what you are suggesting. I have a 3.5 inch thick insulation sealed to marine plywood. I stripped the inside and then built the interior the way I wanted. I did not want to get into the business of covering windows. I plan on having each of the blackout windows covered with an external tint that is totally black.  I designed the interior so that if in the future I decide to add a window I simple find the site and cut back the insulation board and there you go!

If someone finds a premanufactured external window cover for the MCI 9 let me know.

Thanks

Grant
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Grant Goold
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Citrus Heights, California
philiptompkjns
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« Reply #12 on: November 09, 2009, 09:44:29 PM »

Phil,

Where do you live? I have a buddy (Doug1968) that has a 102a3 and he pulled out several windows, he may still have them. He lives in Vancouver WA.

Other than that, you might go to WM, HD or Lowes and get some window tint film. I've heard it works pretty good, and just sticks on.

Paul
Paul, I am in FL. right now, and I have a base in Houston.
Would he ship them?   Is it even possible?
Thanks.
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1990 102a3... Just got started, don't  know  what I'm doing.
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« Reply #13 on: November 10, 2009, 04:16:15 AM »

Check your My Messages, I sent you a PM.

Why is it when you try to help someone they live on the other side of the planet?  Grin

Paul
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Becky and Paul Lawry, On The Road
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« Reply #14 on: November 11, 2009, 08:51:41 AM »

Be careful about too much heat build up in the glass.

Prevost windows will explode easier due to the curves.
( The double pane prevost glass will explode easier. ) I had 4 of them
explode in the shipping crate when someone left the cover off. One side
got too hot.

MCI single pane will crack usually on one layer of the laminated glass sheets
and later will fail completely. Due to heat reflecting back between the inside
insulation sheets and into the glass itself. I have 2 like that now and expect
them to self destruct anytime now. Lucky the bus is backed into the barn out
of the direct sun...
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« Reply #15 on: November 11, 2009, 05:55:31 PM »

My MC8 had some windows painted black on the inside by the previous owner, they cracked. There are many windows behind walls and the windows that were not painted had black plastic behind them attached to the wall. They are visible from the outside and now look real bad. I ordered a roll of Exterior Deluxe Silver 20% VLT window tint.

http://www.windowtint.com/shop/Exterior-Deluxe-Silver-20-VLT.html

Hope to install it next week.

John
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« Reply #16 on: November 12, 2009, 02:13:30 AM »

Don't paint the inside of laminated windows black. Might look good but it took only a couple of hot days for the  laminations to crack because of the differential expansion between the two layers.
Any hotter and the glass would just about have started to melt.
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Dreamscape
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« Reply #17 on: November 12, 2009, 04:25:14 AM »

Most RV dual pane windows do not have gas in between the layers, they will have better luck not cracking. Most of the time glass will crack if the glass gets hot then someone washes the window with cooler water, then you watch the cracks appear while your standing there wondering what the heck is going on. On another forum I watch, there have been no reports of cracking glass due to adding a darkening film. That's not to say it will never happen though.

Paul
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Becky and Paul Lawry, On The Road
Travel Blog - http://dreamscapetravels.wordpress.com/
Bus Blog - http://dreamscapesilvereagle.wordpress.com/
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« Reply #18 on: November 12, 2009, 08:09:26 AM »

Well, with all the negative feedback I've gotten on  the  window covering idea I'm thinking of  just replacing the ones that are cracked with some sort of "blank", maybe a plastic sheet covering treated plywood? 

Also, does anyone know how to get the moisture out from in between the double pained windows? I read about the two iron thing, has anyone actually done this?
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1990 102a3... Just got started, don't  know  what I'm doing.
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« Reply #19 on: November 12, 2009, 08:51:10 AM »

Well, with all the negative feedback I've gotten on  the  window covering idea I'm thinking of  just replacing the ones that are cracked with some sort of "blank", maybe a plastic sheet covering treated plywood? 

Also, does anyone know how to get the moisture out from in between the double pained windows? I read about the two iron thing, has anyone actually done this?

The only effective way I have found to get the moisture out was to replace them! FWIW!

Now 2 things come to mind. One is that there are many of these buses out there being parted out and should be readily available.

ABC sells used parts and has a location in FL (Winter Garden) and TX (Grand Prairie) or Call Dean Gregor @ 1-800-222-2875 ext. 156.
Nick @ Nimco 800-526-8055
Luke @ US Coach 888-262-2434
Sam @ Caylor Supply 785-878-3405
Bryce @ KY Lakeside Travel 731-885-7460  ( Grin )
and I'm sure of more.

Also how about getting what ever type of material you want to use on the outside and putting it in the window frame and shimming it from the inside or using thin plywood as a backing so it fits the frame like the original window?
I know someone who did this and it looked very sharp! (Not completely smooth like skinning the whole side, but very nice and functional!)
Also I know a guy who left the windows in and used thin sheet metal on the outside of the window frames riveted in from around the outside!

Personally I'd go ahead and skin over the desired openings, but then again I don't have a conversion yet! (just 7 seated coaches!)
Grin  BK  Grin
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scanzel
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« Reply #20 on: November 12, 2009, 09:39:25 AM »

Thanks for all the great feedbacks, I only need to cover and eliminate two separately so I will either remove the glass and make up a new insert or find some aluminum or fiberglass sheeting and rivet it in place to the existing fiberglass frame. Anybody know where to get fiberglass sheets?
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Steve Canzellarini
Berlin, CT
1989 Prevost XL
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« Reply #21 on: November 12, 2009, 01:05:19 PM »

Well, with all the negative feedback I've gotten on  the  window covering idea I'm thinking of  just replacing the ones that are cracked with some sort of "blank", maybe a plastic sheet covering treated plywood? 

I would use an aluminum/plastic composite panel called alucobond/dibond/reynobond (several brand names).  If you can find a local shop that fabricates with this stuff they should have seconds that might be scratched on one side.  It should be about $25 for enough for one window.

If you were close enough to Minneapolis I have some pieces that might fit your windows.
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