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Author Topic: Holding Tank Capacity?  (Read 4995 times)
Doug1968
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« on: August 30, 2009, 08:39:30 PM »

Fellows,

I am working on a layout for my holding tanks in my 102A3. I would like to have enough storage to support two people living in the bus in the boondocks for 16 days. This would include fresh water.

In measuring the bay it seems as though the best usage of the space would be to have the tank designed to be about as tall as the bay. This would be the most efficient use of the space it seems. I realize that there will be a need at the top for the fittings.

This is my first RV and I have no idea how large of tanks it would take to last the 16 days? Another thought that came to me when measuring the bay area was how low the bay floor is to the ground. Would I have problems with the tank draining if the tank was sitting directly on the bay floor?

I do not plan on having a dishwasher or washing machine and I would like to think that we could learn to shower every other day to save water.

I would like to hear from the group your thoughts on the tanks sizes.

Thanks,

Doug

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« Reply #1 on: August 30, 2009, 09:16:44 PM »

Doug, figure on 10 gals a day and that is with a very short shower I have 160 gal fresh water tank and it will last us 15 to 16 day taking short showers every day.
My drain comes out under my bay and some time it is a problem dumping hind sight I would have left mine floor level in the bay but I thought at the time that would create a mess in the bay but it works good for my friends.
One good thing about under the bay when you find a grated dump you don't need hoses. 
You will get different answers here on tanks and drains everyone does it different ways, but I have been around some at Quartzsite that use the 2 gals a day not nice LOL   


good luck
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« Reply #2 on: August 30, 2009, 09:52:16 PM »

We have 200 gal fresh  and 100 each of gray and black. We have the shower plumbed into the black tank which helps by adding liquid to the black and saves on space in the gray. We spend the winter boondocking at quartzsite AZ We go dump and fill with water about every three weeks. we do use a dishwasher I have found that the wife uses a lot less water with the dishwasher than washing the dishes by hand every day. She stores the dirty dishes in the dishwasher until she has a full load then the dishwasher only uses about 5 gals of water.If she were to wash every day she uses a lot more water.
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« Reply #3 on: August 30, 2009, 09:58:16 PM »

We have 135 gallons of fresh water for washing, a separate 40 gallons of water for drinking, and a 135 gallon gray water tank.

With that setup we can go 14-16 days, but we always take "navy" showers, often shower every 36 or 48 hours instead of 24, and have a special set of valves that allow us to get "instant" hot water without wasting a drop waiting for the shower or sink to get hot.

Our black tank situation is a bit weird, since our toilet is two bays behind where the tank is, and we have to use an air-flush model that requires half a gallon per flush.  Most direct-drop RV toilets use much less water.  We have a 65 gallon black tank, and even then it will not go the full two weeks unless we conserve however we can, which means peeing in the woods (or desert) whenever we can, using restrooms at the office if we are on a job, and other strategies that are best not discussed in polite company.

If you can be ultra-conservative, you can get by with ~5 gallons per person per day.  Your gray tank should be at least as large as your fresh tank.  With an RV-style toilet, a gallon or two per person per day should be sufficient.  Remember, fresh water hose bibs are much easier to come by than dump stations, so err on the larger side for the waste tanks.

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« Reply #4 on: August 30, 2009, 11:53:50 PM »

You will never have a problem finding a spot to dump the gray water.  The black is a problem.  I think 50 gal is min for black and a weeks worth of capacity for the grey.  You can run the grey thru a 50 ft garden hose to a storm drain or a ditch or just down the hill.  I Kalifornia they used to give tax credits to folks that plumbed their shower and sink into their garden or front yard underground.  Technically....it is sewage when that is what they want to call it.

Give some thought to this tank config.  The fresh is a oblong tank 18 inches high and as wide and long as you want to make it with capacity as your guide.  The tank lays flat on the floor of the bay on top of 2 to 4 inches of foam insulation board.  On top of this tank site two tanks that form trapezoids and when nested on top of the fresh tank they are the same dimension.  One tank sits directly below the toilet and the other....doesn't.  If you heat the water in the fresh tank it will heat the other two tanks and there is a really easy way to heat your fresh up to 50 or 60 degrees.  Obviously there is some limited framing.

A serious advantage of this config is that the area devoted to tanks is a cube, overall.  I think you want the tank final config to be as high as the bay will allow and your width will determine the overall capacity.

Sean mentions not wasting any water getting warm water to your shower or sink.  That is done by plumbing a warm water return to the fresh tank that is controlled by a push button valve mtd near the sink or shower.  Press the button for a few seconds and you will run hot water right up to the hot valve.  That hot water going back to the fresh tank can be as much as you like and in winter the capacity of the HW heater, dumped every so often, will keep your wet bay from freezing.  Neat huh?  Multi use systems and redundancy of critical systems!!!!!!!

HTH,

John
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« Reply #5 on: August 31, 2009, 04:53:00 AM »

Doug,

Interesting that you should ask this. We are going through this right now. Here are a couple of things to consider.

If you go custom tanks, you will want to consider a couple of things. If your tanks go all of the way to the ceiling of the bay, what about vents, and where do you tie you drains into (I know that you know this, but it takes more space that you want Wink)? We thought that we had a lot of that figured out, but we would have been in big trouble if we wouldn't have been able to change our tank configuration. Also, depending on the setup, you will need to carefully decide where you want your dumps too be. Also, if you custom order your tanks (we did for three of ours), 24" seems to be the magic number. That is the size of their sheet of plastic, and that is the cheapest way to make them, if you can stay away from using extra sheets.

We have 120 of black, and 220 of gray (one black tank, and two gray). Right now, we only have 80 fresh. We are going to put another custom tank in the back bedroom, but we haven't ordered that yet. We figured, for this trip, we can fill up with fresh just about anywhere. Eventually we will have matching fresh, to the gray and black.

I will be able to help with more info, when we are done.

God bless,

John
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« Reply #6 on: August 31, 2009, 06:38:55 AM »

Hello All, I sure you already have one of these, but if not this could help; http://www.watertanks.com/calc.asp  All the Best,M&C
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« Reply #7 on: August 31, 2009, 08:12:22 AM »

I don't know where he got his tanks, but they are built for the 102A3 to fit under the hump in the bay.  My son is on the net and may see this and chime in, if he doesn't and you want to find out where he got the tanks send me a PM.  I don't think he paid a lot for the ones that he got and they sure went into the bays nice using all the space.
Jack
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« Reply #8 on: August 31, 2009, 08:36:52 AM »

When i laid mine out I wanted to have my tanks up high in the bay so I hung them as high as they would go. This gives me a drain that is high enough to be contained within the bay and when at an RV park I can send a hose out to the sewer conection through a hole in the floor of the bay. I ran the drains together so anly one outlet and two valves. I then mounted the water tank underneath the waste tanks setting on the floor of the bay. I travel in sub freezing weather and use a thermostatic controlled heater in the bay to keep things from freezing Jerry
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« Reply #9 on: August 31, 2009, 08:38:30 AM »

I have 130gal fresh, 85gal gray, 45 gal black.  We can go (wife and I) a week on that water with both showering everyday and doing dishes.  With practice, we probably could stretch it to 10 days.  The gray does fill up first.  One of the best features I put on is a curb side open drain for the gray tank.  Just park over a drain and let er go!  The 45 gal black can easily go a week.  
On my truck conversions, I'm increasing to 175gal fresh, 110gal gray and 75gal black.  I will also plumb the gray into the black with a T to also be able to empty the gray separately and with the curb drain also.
One of the best ways to conserve water is to put in warm up valves, like Sean said.  I'm just doing a simple extra valve on the shower and kitchen sink where I can run the hot water with the pipe leading back to the water tank-so the pipes can warm up without wasting close to a minute of water at the shower while it warms up.  Good Luck, TomC
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« Reply #10 on: August 31, 2009, 09:12:26 AM »

I took the lazy way out.  I picked up four tanks from Bontagners that are ~ 12" x 24" x 72", it comes out about 80 gal each.  I set aside two for fresh water, one black and one grey.  However the grey has an overflow into the black tank.  I chose to keep them separate to provide a bit of flexibility as well as being able to purge the dump hose.

They fit nicely in my rear bay with a bit of angle iron and 1/2" plywood for bracing.  Now I have to get the spin fittings attached.
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« Reply #11 on: August 31, 2009, 04:50:53 PM »

Matt,

Do you have any pictures to share?

Paul
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« Reply #12 on: August 31, 2009, 07:42:36 PM »

Not to steal this thread but what are dis-advantages to having just one black/grey tank? and what about aluminum?
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« Reply #13 on: August 31, 2009, 08:46:54 PM »

Joshua,

There are some that combine the gray and black and it works for them.  I think those people dry camp less than most, if, at all.

If they are separate, then you can dump the grey almost anywhere...storm drain, in the ditch or down the hill from your camp with a 50 foot hose.  It gives you alternatives.  The black fills slower so you can go longer between visits to a dump station.

Alu rots with come of the chems and sewage we put in the tanks.  The hot setup is stainless steel  holding tanks...three of them.  I suspect that SS was an upgrade option when those Puppies were built.  I have only seen them in Hi Line Pre's but I have led a sheltered life so that doesn't really mean all that much.

John
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« Reply #14 on: August 31, 2009, 09:48:00 PM »

We have 165 of fresh and 65 of black and 100 of grey and we can go for at least 3days with no problem.

If we are conservative I am sure we could go 4 days.

We live well when we are in the coach.

The combination of 330 gallons just about fills up one bay of an MCI 8

Leaves just enough room for the pumps hoses and drain valves.

If you want to have more look under your bed and think about putting the pumps and valves in the next bay over.

The bays are just so big and only so much will fit.  You could probably put 400 gallons in a bay but not with all the plumbing.

Careful planning will be your friend. --- My tanks were custom built for my bays.

Melbo
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« Reply #15 on: September 01, 2009, 05:14:20 AM »

I had my tanks custom built with 160 fresh,65 grey and 40 black. I can get about 10 days tops due to our black tank being small.If I had to do it again,I would have 70 black and 40 grey.I agree you can dump grey almost anywhere using a garden hose.My fresh tank sits on my bay floor and six inches shorter than the  length of the bay.My grey and black sit on top of my fresh tank and my black overhangs my fresh tank which allows my hookups for the dump valves.
    Don
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« Reply #16 on: September 01, 2009, 05:29:58 AM »

A lot of your decision has to do with your intended use.  We like state parks which usually have water hookups but not sewer.  We don't do a lot of pure boon-docking.  So for our purposes, 50-60 gallons of fresh is plenty, but holding tanks can never be big enough.  I prefer separate black and gray tanks at about 60:40 or 70:30 range and as large as possible.

Len
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« Reply #17 on: September 01, 2009, 05:36:52 AM »

greywater tank 20% bigger than feshwater tank. so yo don't find yourself taking a shower ankle deep in gray sulfurous water
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« Reply #18 on: September 01, 2009, 05:54:37 AM »

We have 100 gal.fresh and 100 black/ grey combination tanks. We can go 8 to 10 days before dumping and taking on fresh water. We boondock 5 or 6 months a year with NO dumping on the ground[/u]
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« Reply #19 on: September 01, 2009, 06:03:57 AM »

We have 100 gallons fresh with twin 85 gallon tanks for grey and black, they are mounted side by side within a 2x12 cradle, the dump valves come off the ends and have a common pipe that dumps to the hose, this requires 3 valves but enables us to use the grey to flush the black tank, very simple but nice setup.  Because I mounted them side by side I have a piece of 3/4 inch plywood for a tank cover that allows me to use the 2ft above the tanks for additional storage.
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« Reply #20 on: September 01, 2009, 07:26:06 AM »

Doug,

We have 100 gal fresh, one 100 gal gray/black with a gray diverter pipe to the outside under the bay, which we have not used.

When/if we change it will be 100 gal fresh, with a larger combined tank for gray/black. I like the combined tanks, but it all depends on your intended uses.

Just remember to size your tanks to leave you room for all of the other stuff, storage for camping supplies chairs etc., hot water, propane if you will need it, inverter and batteries, tools, and a variety of oil, cleaning supplies and anything else you want to take with you. Wink

Paul
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« Reply #21 on: September 01, 2009, 07:31:25 AM »

The tank sizing was a big issue for me, thats why I got the ones that were 24 wide and 72 long, that allowed me to place 2 tanks side by side within a cradle and still put a piece of 3/4 inch plywood on top, I did loose a foot of storage across the bottom but I still have 2 feet of storage on top of them.
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« Reply #22 on: September 02, 2009, 07:23:04 PM »

Fellows,

I appreciate all of the feedback. Sorry for the delay in responding but I have been away from the board for a few days.

Sean - TomC

I like the idea of the warm up valve. Very ingenious and a good idea. I will plan on installing this feature regardless of what I do with tanks. Did you install a switch at both the bath and the kitchen?

KD5KLF

Makes sense to have the gray tank larger than the black. Possibly extra fluids will get dumped into the sink, ice, soda, beer!! NO NOT THE BEER, and I can see where you might run out of room if not careful. 20% bigger makes sense.

Cody

On your 24" x 72" tanks, what was the tank height? My bus is 102" wide and I think I could fit a 96" tank across the bus? It would be nice if I could find a stock, off the shelf size that utilizes most of the space?

I have been following a post regarding mounting the plumbing to the tank. It seems as though these fittings would be readily available along with the tanks?

Does anyone have a good source for the tanks and the fittings?

Also, is it best to have the toilet drop straight into the black tank?

Would it be good to install a removable cap on the opposite side of the drain for rinsing out the black tank? Or would it be located on the same side as the drain so that it could easily be accessed when draining the tank?

Is there a standard location for the drain? Drivers side or passenger side?

I appreciate all the input and I look forward to your responses.

Thanks,

Doug
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« Reply #23 on: September 03, 2009, 05:02:55 AM »

Doug,

First about plumbing the tank, if you get stock tanks, you probably will be able to use those standard rubber grommets (that I posted a pic of). We ended up using a router, and shaving that area down, that way the tank is "thinner" right, exactly where the grommet is. I will try to post pics.

We went with a toilet straight drop. That is what was recommended to us, and makes sense to me.

We have a fitting installed on our black tank for rinsing. We have it to where you connect the hose up to an outlet and it fills up the black tank....That place where we have the connection so we can rinse the black tank will be right with all of our other hookups.

We found that most of the dumps, and hookups, to be on the driver side. Our old setup was on the passenger side, and that was a pain!

If you have anymore specific questions, let me know, since we are working on it right now Grin. I am not saying that my answers will be correct, however, they will by my way Grin.

God bless,

John
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« Reply #24 on: September 03, 2009, 06:10:11 AM »

Doug, our tanks are about a foot tall, on the 96 inch tanks you may not have enough room to put the drain fittings and valve on the end, that has to be figured into the installation.
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« Reply #25 on: September 04, 2009, 03:00:02 AM »

Doug, You want all of your hookups on the driver side, water, elect. and sewer.

Figure what size tanks you need, measure the area and look at one of the advertisers in the BCM magazine. It usually is a full page spread, made in CA and shipped to you. They may have the sizes you need, otherwise shop locally for a supplier. I do not have the experience others have had because our waste is a round aluminum tank, which is not very space friendly, installed by a PO. The plastic ones also make it easy to attach sensors to show how full they are, and are translucent enough to see the liquid levels.

Paul
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« Reply #26 on: September 04, 2009, 05:14:44 AM »

We used tankdepot.com and they ship from Wis. or Ca we picked one that shipped from wis  cause shipping $. We picked up a 55 gal for around 230. then 4 fittings another 30. then shipping to NY then tax! it was right at 320. total but they send you just what you want. They have shipping calculators and give sizes and drawings. You have to mark the drawing and send it to them by email or fax. They shipped right away. Make a luan or cardboard template and make sure you have all the fittings where you want them. We put 2 3" ports and 2  1-1/2 fittings. I dont think they did 2" for some reason. These were all female pipe thread so you use pvc male adpts.
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« Reply #27 on: September 04, 2009, 05:18:43 AM »

If you are in the Southeast, try DuraCast in Lake Wales, FL. They make many different sizes & shapes of rotational molded tanks and spin weld the fittings you want where you want them.  Jack
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« Reply #28 on: September 04, 2009, 08:24:45 AM »

I like the idea of the warm up valve. Very ingenious and a good idea. I will plan on installing this feature regardless of what I do with tanks. Did you install a switch at both the bath and the kitchen?


Because the valve allows the hot water to come all the way to the fixture, there needs to be one on each fixture where you want to do this.  We have three; one for the shower, and one each for the kitchen and bathroom sinks.  I used irrigation valves, made for 24vac but work fine on 24vdc.  There is a push button located at each fixture; I used pinball-machine flipper buttons, which mount nicely right through the wood of the cabinetry and have a finished appearance without any trim plate or switch cover.

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Does anyone have a good source for the tanks and the fittings?


We used Ardemco; when you buy their tanks, they include any number of fittings pre-installed that you'd like for no charge.  The fittings are made of the same polyethylene as the tanks and are spin-welded in.  You need to know exactly where you want them before you order the tanks, and send them a drawing.
 
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Also, is it best to have the toilet drop straight into the black tank?


Yes.  In fact, if it is not a straight shot, you may have problems with a standard RV toilet.  Our tank is a good 10' in front of the toilet; we use a Microphor air-flush model which uses two quarts per flush, and sends the waste to the tank under pressure through a 1.5" line.

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Would it be good to install a removable cap on the opposite side of the drain for rinsing out the black tank? Or would it be located on the same side as the drain so that it could easily be accessed when draining the tank?


We have removable plugs in the center of the top of the tanks, just in case.  In five years of full timing, we have never had to use them.

We installed a third fullway (gate) valve in the dump line, downstream of the T where the black and gray lines come together.  When at the dump, we first drain the black tank, then close the downstream valve and open the gray valve, which allows the gray water to flow backwards into the black tank, flushing it out.   We then close the gray and open the exit valve, draining the flush water.  We do this two or three times until the effluent is gray rather than brown; a 2", 45° clear plastic bayonet fitting on the hose provides the view.  Then we close the black valve and open the gray, allowing the rest of the gray water to flush out the hose.  Using this strategy has kept the black tank free of sludge buildup.

Quote
Is there a standard location for the drain? Drivers side or passenger side?


Motor homes must have their dump lines on the driver side, per ANSI/NFPA 1192, and that is where you will find most park connections, as well as the orientation of most dump stations.  However, passenger buses universally have their dumps on the curb side, and that's where you will find dumps in bus garages.  In five years, we've dumped in a bus garage only four times.  Since bus dumps are basically hoppers with grates over them, the effluent will splash a bit -- stand well clear when you pull the valve.  Also, to use this sort of dump, your drain needs to come pretty much straight down out the bottom of the coach, or else you will have to fiddle with a hose somehow.

BTW, our dump is on the street side, as normal.  To use a bus garage, we just back into it.  What has been more useful for us over the years is our built-in macerator pump and a 50' hose.  We have a separate set of 1.5" fullway valves on the curb side going to the macerator, which lets us dump into household toilets, pit toilets, sanitary sewer manholes, and dump stations too far to reach with the normal gravity hose, or actually uphill from the bus (don't laugh, it's happened).

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« Reply #29 on: September 04, 2009, 09:06:01 AM »

Fellows,

I am working on a layout for my holding tanks in my 102A3. I would like to have enough storage to support two people living in the bus in the boondocks for 16 days. This would include fresh water.

You're looking at between 100 and 200 gallons, depending on whether you use water like a backpacker or like you're hooked to the shore tap.

You need at least two tanks (culinary and sewage), unless you're not too picky about  your water tastes.  Most people go to three tanks (culinary, greywater and blackwater).  Remember also that you need 50% more sewage tank than culinary tank (you are adding solids to the blackwater, and these take up a lot of volume).  The advantage of a single sewage tank is that this is the most efficient (you aren't going to find one tank full while the other is half empty), the DISadvantage is that you are forced always to find a dump station, while greywater can be drained in many more places, if you need to.

You also want to spend the extra money for BAFFLED tanks, if they are available.  Imagine that you have a half-empty culinary tank and a half-full sewage tank.  You're carrying maybe 3/4 of a TON of liquids, which are free to slosh around (this is known as "ullage").  You have to hit the brakes and stop from highway speed.  All of that liquid is sloshing around, first to the front of the tank, then rocks to the back, then back to the front.  3/4 of a ton, against the couple of hundred square inches on the front of the tank.  Can your tanks take it, over and over for years to come, without failing?  And every tanker-truck driver can tell about the time that his half-full tanks sloshed him forward another foot or two after a stop, and these tanks are baffled!

Few plastic tanks are baffled, but you can still beat the laws of physics by using several smaller tanks instead of one big tank.  Smaller tanks for culinary water also give you the ability to increase or decrease your freshwater load, if your needs change.
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« Reply #30 on: September 04, 2009, 11:19:01 AM »

My dump is on the passenger side because the tanks are there.  The tank dumps straight down so I can run the hose to either side as necessary.  I gnerally have been able to pull up on the curb side to dump stations, but that might not work if there is a line unless I back up.

I really do care what the regs say as this isn't a safety issue.
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« Reply #31 on: September 04, 2009, 06:52:21 PM »

I have a tank manufacture recommendation. I will try to do the short story here. We first ordered from Plastic-Mart. DON'T use them!!! They didn't ship on time. Finally they shipped them, and one of the tanks leaked. Of course, they didn't use virgin polyethylene. It was PIPE GRADE!

Anyways ended up driving two hours (one way), to get the tank fixed. Since it was a cruddy plastic, the welder wasn't able to weld to it very well. He tried to fix the leak, but it was just a bad job when they built the tank. Finally we decided that he would build us a new one. He then built it on the spot, right then (he gave up his motorcycle ride to the lake to build us this tank!).

I will post more about today in a new thread, however I want to recommended the guy. If anybody want's a good tank manufacture (that was 200 less than plastic-mart), PM me. I will send you his phone #.

He is very good, and thorough. It was amazing he was in town, because he usually works government contracts.

God bless,

John
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« Reply #32 on: September 04, 2009, 07:08:30 PM »

Maybe somebody has already mentioned how handy it is to separate your fresh water and your drinking water - if so I apologize for repeating it.  When we got this coach it was set up that way and I thought "what a stupid setup".  Now I wouldn't have it any other way.  There's times when you have good water in the main tank that you don't mind drinking but there's a lot of times where the water is barely fit for a shower and you sure as hell don't want to drink it.  For those times we have a 20 gallon (Canuck gallon - 25 of your Yankee gallons) dedicated drinking tank with a completely separate pressure system.  I have it rigged so that I can suck a 5 gallon blue bottle directly into that tank which is what we do whenever the water is suspect. 
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« Reply #33 on: September 05, 2009, 06:13:59 AM »

Bontragers and RV Surplus both have tanks in a lot of sizes at a discount, at Bontragers the tanks range from 50 bucks up, I bought one from them that I believe was 80 gallons for 65 dollars and it came complete with the end drain, they are all new tanks but surplus, problem is that shipping tanks you get hit with the over size rate, to UPS the tank to me cost 80 bucks, it was more than the tank cost.
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« Reply #34 on: September 07, 2009, 09:18:57 AM »

On the west coast, buy from El Monte Plastics.  They make the tanks for Ardemco, so buying direct will save money.  I had my tanks made 15 years ago and haven't had any issues with them.  My fresh water tank is under my bed and I have a halogen puck light to illuminate it so I can see the level.  Once I left it on and it burnt a melted divit into the top of the tank.  I welded it back close-easy to do with a propane torch.  Good Luck, TomC
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« Reply #35 on: September 07, 2009, 09:46:40 AM »

There's times when you have good water in the main tank that you don't mind drinking but there's a lot of times where the water is barely fit for a shower and you sure as hell don't want to drink it.

I NEVER put water into the culinary tank without running it through a good filter.  All water coming into the water system goes through another filter (for sediment removal and taste improvement).

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« Reply #36 on: September 07, 2009, 11:07:48 AM »

I have a double filter set up on my bus and still got some pretty funky water.

Had to drain the tanks and replace the filters.

Even with the double filter set up and watching what we put into the tanks I would not drink the water out of my fresh water tank ever.

We carry separate drinking -- ice --- cooking water.

Melbo
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« Reply #37 on: September 10, 2009, 08:41:59 PM »

I just spent the last year having my new tanks made, I started with Aluminum but after 5 years the bottom of the 1/4 plate was so porous I could push a screwdriver through it. I decided to make my own plywood tanks - bad idea and quite expensive. I found Stainless tanks but they were the wrong size (I have them for sale if anyone is interested) I then researched plastic tanks and found them for about 400 each but the sizes are never quite right AND the hidden cost of the fittings was kinda crazy.

I found a local guy who made them for 375 each. They are perfect custom sized with 1/2" Polyethelene!!!!! that is some crazy heavy duty stuff. I put a 130 gallon fresh under the bed and 150 gallon black/grey in the bay. The plumbing is super simple and easy to trouble shoot. I left space for a grey water diverter valve if I should choose to dry camp for extended periods. For me is the perfect setup.

The best thing I installed was a simple hand pump fed into a 5 gallon water jug that uses up that useless space under the kitchen sink. I great system and easy to manage the fresh drinking water. I ultimately agree with Bob on this point!
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« Reply #38 on: September 10, 2009, 09:02:19 PM »

We also practice separate drinking water from the big tank down below.

We like those water cooler units with the hot/cold/room temperature choices.

You can choose to power it up or choose to leave the switches turned off, depending on your current power availability.

5 gallon water cooler jugs may be brought from home, purchased locally, or re-filled from known good sources. Those with smaller kids, if you didn't know, changing their water is the surest way to change what comes out the other end, so carrying water from home keeps their internals working the same as home!

So, keeping drinking separate from sink/shower/toilet, we may fill the big tank down below with a certain degree of carefree, and add some chlorine for psychological satisfaction, we aren't drinking it anyway, so a little overdose on the bug killer isn't harming the digestive processes.

as always, do it your way!!!

happy coaching!
buswarrior


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Frozen North, Greater Toronto Area
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