I am so hacked off!

[Slide]

So after all the hoopla,What's the correct torque for aluminum and steel wheels?

[kyle4501]

So after all the hoopla,What's the correct torque for aluminum and steel wheels?

Good ole boy/ "industry standard" = 3 'hammers' with a 1" impact gun with antiseize
-OR-
Engineered with full understanding of all the loads on the hardware/ Manufacturers specifications = in the service manual or on their website.


Seems to be your choice.

[DaveG]

Without looking, I think stud pilot (Budd nut style) are 475 (dry), and I don't recall there being any different specs for steel vs alum.

Anyone with more current specs, feel free to correct me.

Clifford, if you know your bearing numbers, PM them to me and I'll check & see what I have for hub pilot hubs...they really are the way to go, wheel last longer...nothing used to piss me off more than having to junk an aluminum wheel because the stud holes got all wallered out.

[kyle4501]

http://www.accuridewheels.com/SafetyManual/section%20XII.pdf

Loads more detail provided concerning the wheel mounting procedure here.
Interesting that they recommend replacing the adjacent studs when replacing a broken one. . . .


Should be required reading for anyone who wants to change their wheels.




I'm sure some can accurately use a 1" impact gun to properly tighten their wheels, but the more I read concerning how they do it, the more details come out. The problem with incomplete information is that newbies don't know it is incomplete.

It has also been confirmed that tire shops use an impact gun as a time saving short cut. That may be fine if you have enough experience, but to advise newbies to do that (with no seasoned veteran to show them the finner points) seems irresponsible to me.

I'd also maintain the wheel studs/ nuts are loaded differently than any other bolted connection on a vehicle. That may make all the difference when it comes to why lubrication on the threads or wheel mating surfaces is not recommended (hub pilot wheels are a different issue).

[DaveG]

Thanks Kyle! I got one right.

[JohnEd]

Kyle,

I agree with everything you have said and I also agree with what Clifford has said.  I see no contradiction.  Remember, I said everything.

Thank you for sharing that informative site.  Everything I needed to know.  One thing was that all the nuts need to be checked periodically.  I wonder what their period is.  I didn't see that but I might have missed it.

Thanks again,

John

[luvrbus]

That is a good site I have a Accuride instructors manual I bought years ago when it was Firestone, but about the lube you guys do a little research and you will find that a big sales pitch for Accuride was the inner and outer nuts made by them was as quoted " No lubrication required ". 
I am sure some of you guys remember the Teflon coated inner and outer nuts for the aluminum wheels made by Euclid and that process is still used today on the nuts and washers for some of the hub center wheels.
 For years different wheel manufactures had different degrees of angle on the inner and outer nuts 30, 45 and 60 degrees 60 being the standard today for all wheel manufactures and no one ever paid any attention to that fwiw I have a old 70 model truck that has 30 degrees nuts on it. 
Any way if you guys see a green Eagle with the wheels off on the side of the hi way you can always tell me I told you so.   


good luck

[kyle4501]

Any way if you guys see a green Eagle with the wheels off on the side of the hi way you can always tell me I told you so.   

That's funny, I don't care who you are!

Ain't no substitute for experience . . . .
The biggest baffling thing to me is how some have a mechanical feel & some don't.
Just look at the cars on the road with stuff hanging off, or listen to some of the discussions at the discount auto parts store counter - scary what some delve into . . .