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Author Topic: What did you use for Vent stack on the roof?  (Read 1842 times)
muddog16
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« on: September 04, 2009, 07:10:03 AM »

I'm running the drain and water vent stacks, and I was just wondering what everyone else used and how well they look and work?
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Pat

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Bob & Tracey
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« Reply #1 on: September 04, 2009, 07:13:07 AM »

Our vents are just the pipe cut off a few inches higher than the roof.

Bob
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bevans6
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« Reply #2 on: September 04, 2009, 07:31:46 AM »

RV stores have a variety of bits to go over the end of the pipe and seal onto the roof.  Debates rage about which one suctions fumes out the best, etc.

Brian
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gumpy
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« Reply #3 on: September 04, 2009, 07:43:58 AM »

I used a venturi cap to go over my 1 1/2" PVC pipe that goes through the roof. The only advantage is it seals against the roof, where the pipe would have been difficult to seal properly.

Be careful where you locate it. I had problems with the fumes being sucked out the venturi, and then getting sucked right back into the coach through the roof hatch seal which was located just behind the venturi.

I eventually connected the vent into the engine air intake, and the combo of engine intake and roof vent seems to have fixed my long time smell issues. Still have some smell right at the toilet that I'm trying to track. I thought it was due to the wax gasket melting because of my in-floor heat. I replaced it with a waxless gasket, but there's still a smell, so still looking for that one.
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Craig Shepard
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« Reply #4 on: September 04, 2009, 07:51:47 AM »

The first couple days I had one of the flat top vent caps that says it creates a suction.  I had fumes.  I changed to a fin type and no more fumes.  The slightest breeze rotates it so that the breeze creates a suction on the opening.
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prevost82
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« Reply #5 on: September 04, 2009, 07:56:57 AM »

I went though the bay floor with the plumbing vents with running "T's" on the end to act as a venturi. My black gray combo tank runs 6' across in the bay, so I put a vent on each side (curb / drivers). Works great, no smell and no hole in the roof
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loosenut
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« Reply #6 on: September 04, 2009, 08:02:00 AM »

I bought a converted bus.  If there is a vent pipe I can't find it.  Knock on wood, so far I don't have a problem.

Mike
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Len Silva
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« Reply #7 on: September 04, 2009, 08:05:28 AM »

I ran mine up behind the refrigerator to the refer vent.
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« Reply #8 on: September 04, 2009, 10:29:21 AM »

the whole venting concept inspires heated debates sometimes.  the idea is a that you need a constantly rising run to allow methane gas to gently rise out in it's lighter than air way.  if you don't have that constantly rising run, the methane gets trapped and gases build up, eventually causing your bus to float away....

the vent on my bus is cunningly constructed to have a straight rise up 6", go straight back, and then down to exit in the middle of the drive axle bay front wall.  Obviously meeting none of the rules, or guidelines, or anything else.  I'll get around to fixing it.  It's next on the list...

Is there any reason why you need a dedicated vent from the tank to the roof only?  Could you tee into the sink basin drains?  that might reduce the complexity of the task in my bus from "it's on the list" to  "its ON the LIST"

 Grin

Brian
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« Reply #9 on: September 04, 2009, 11:21:16 AM »

Brian,

I have heard that the black tank needs "two" vert pipe vents.  Mine are single vented. All kinds of info that says you can only go thru the roof.  Lots of anecdotal evidence that you can run the vent out the floor.  Everything in the bus goes up.  I think the black and grey need dedicated vents.  Winnie ran separate vents right after every trap in addition to the tank vents.  She is odor free and has been for years.

The rule is that you can have no more than 45 degrees of bends in the vert vent pipe.  They really fuss about low restriction air flow.  Mine has two that have a total of 90.

I have never benefited from any of that tank additive stuff....never.  I have only ever had any odor in the coach once and that was from a cracked black tank vent pipe and that was HORRIFIC.  Rinsing the tanks is a pure waste.  The whole thing was set up for people that obsess about poopy and stuff.  Perfumes that smell worse than waste, disinfectant treatments, yeast stuff to start digesters AND THAT WAND that you stick down the toilet to rinse off the walls of the black tank.....OH MY GOD!

Yes, I dump my black first and then the grey to rinse out the hose.  If I can use a fresh water hose I give it a final rinse.  If not....I am wearing disposable rubber gloves.

HTH,

John
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Dreamscape
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« Reply #10 on: September 04, 2009, 01:22:27 PM »

This is supposed to be the latest and greatest.



http://www.rv-360.com/RV360-home/rv360-home.htm

I have no personal experience with this, nor do I own any stock! Grin

I have a 360° fin type, works pretty darn good. This is my second one as the old one broke off somewhere on I-20 from Dallas TX. If I had know about the one above I would have tried that one, no moving parts and low profile.

Paul
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muddog16
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« Reply #11 on: September 05, 2009, 04:15:22 AM »

Thanks for the information and input!  Craig and Ron where did you find those venturi type caps? I do like that idea of no hole in the roof!  Paul that is a great link and that cap is interesting too.  I need to decide roof or out through the bottom.   The reason I vented my tanks with a seperate vent line rather than using the conventional home type venting, when dumping fluids into a closed vessel, you will displace a volumn of air, or gas with the entering stream, those gases/flumes have to go somewhere......hopefully outside!
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Pat

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« Reply #12 on: September 05, 2009, 04:36:40 AM »

I installed the RV 360 vent caps on both vent pipes and I can say they work will. When driving I could not have my drivers window and passanger window open without a heavy sewer smell.After installing the 360 vent caps no sewer smell.
     Don
   
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John316
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« Reply #13 on: September 05, 2009, 04:54:36 AM »

Per Sean's recommendation, we ran ours through the roof. We used the cover like Paul posted. It really doesn't look bad. After this trip, I can then tell you how it really works with the fumes Grin.

God bless,

John
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MCI 1995 DL3. DD S60 with a Allison B500.
cody
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« Reply #14 on: September 05, 2009, 05:10:04 AM »

Ours vents into the wheel wells, works just fine, may not be code but probably very little on my bus is code, I suppose someday the vent police will arrest me and I'll go to prison but until then it seems to be just fine, I'm trying to picture sitting on my bunk in my prison cell comparing war stories with my bunkie and him telling me about the 14 people he killed, maimed and tortured, not necessarily in that order and I'll tell him about my vent. lol
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John316
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« Reply #15 on: September 05, 2009, 05:13:31 AM »

Cody Grin Grin Grin You always crack me up Grin.

BTW how are you feeling. Are you going to run your marathon today?  Grin Grin Grin

God bless,

John
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MCI 1995 DL3. DD S60 with a Allison B500.
cody
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« Reply #16 on: September 05, 2009, 05:19:42 AM »

I should be ready for the marathon, I've had the chair batteries charging all night.
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John316
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« Reply #17 on: September 05, 2009, 05:20:56 AM »

 Grin Grin Grin

God bless,

John
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« Reply #18 on: September 05, 2009, 08:49:29 AM »

Back some time ago, a busnut on one of the boards used the drain fittings from the bottom of the kitchen sink up on the roof to finish it off.

The roof skin acts as the sink bottom, all the fittings and seals perform in the same manner, squeezing it all together into a leak free assembly. It was done closer to mid roof, so the curvature was claimed to not impact the install.

I thought at the time that this idea was quite subtle for those who don't want to clutter the roof line.

I wonder how it ended up performing in service?

happy coaching!
buswarrior
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