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Author Topic: Refrigerator amp draw.  (Read 19552 times)
Chaz
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4108, 8V71 w/auto .


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« Reply #15 on: October 07, 2009, 07:21:27 AM »

Can you fill me in as to which model, Duff?? Thanx.

Steve, Yup, I'm familiar, but that has never really stopped me before if it's something I want. My thoughts are that for the most part, a product should at least last it's warrenty. Most do, but I am also aware that some don't. Shame. Quality isn't job 1 anymore.

Thanx guys,
    Chaz
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Don4107
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« Reply #16 on: October 07, 2009, 10:00:59 PM »

Was in Sears the other day looking at some fridges for the home.  Lots of LGs and LGs wearing the Kenmore name tag.  Maybe you can find the model or something close there.

Good luck
Don 4107
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Don 4107 Eastern Washington
1975 MCI 5B
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BG6
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« Reply #17 on: October 08, 2009, 06:14:58 AM »

I went to Costco and bought their 14cu ft $380 fridge.  Works just fine in my coach.  6.75A full load.

Even better, the height is perfect to go under the luggage rack in my MCI 96A3, after taking out the vanity panel and speaker/light module. 
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NewbeeMC9
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« Reply #18 on: October 08, 2009, 06:22:00 AM »

Chaz,

The titanium fridge is useful in it's space and layout. The vacation mode is probably the switch you are concerned about, but it seams to go out of that if the light comes one.  I guess you could take the bulb out or tape the door switch down so you can still use it in energy saver mode.

It has been my experience generally that the freezer being on the bottom or side uses a lot more energy than the freezer being on top.  Mainly because the cold for the fridge comes from the freezer and something has to force the cold air up.  Freezer losses are generally to the floor and not to the fridge.

I have a side by side and a bottom freezer type in my house and I'm sure that they are most of our power bill during the non A/C months.

Just a thought.
« Last Edit: October 08, 2009, 07:17:48 AM by NewbeeMC9 » Logged

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