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Author Topic: Ummm, a little unsavory topic....  (Read 3748 times)
gus
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« Reply #15 on: September 27, 2009, 06:22:55 PM »

I have no idea what a valtera valve is but my valves are tightened by four screws, one at each corner.

Tightening these stops leaks but it also makes the valve slides tighter so there is a happy medium.
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Ash Flat, AR
Hartley
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« Reply #16 on: September 27, 2009, 06:28:48 PM »

One thing that really causes problems both in the tank valves
and in macerator pumps...

The little circular hair bungee rings that women seem to like...

I have gotten that " I didn't do it!! " so many times that I am now completely numb
to arguing about stuff getting in the toilet.

Once I watched one of our cats playing with one of the hair rings and saw it throw it
up on the toilet seat and made a hole on one... Darned Cat !!

I have the Three Valve setup and wait until the black tank is at about 80 gallons before
opening the flood gates... It is so violent that I have to hold the flex hose down to keep
from getting knocked over.. But it works every time. Lord help me if I bust another flex hose...
Been there and couldn't get away fast enough..... waaaaaaaaaaaa....
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Charles in SC
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« Reply #17 on: September 27, 2009, 06:34:55 PM »

My black valve is made so the handle has to be turned a certain way to fit in a slot or it does not close all the way. Maybe yours is made like mine. I did not know this until I took it off to rebuild it when I could not get it to stop leaking. Good luck with yours.
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S8M 5303 built in 1969, converted in 2000
Chuck Newman
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« Reply #18 on: October 01, 2009, 10:56:59 AM »

John,

Well, as usual, I'm late for the party.  If you haven't fixed the valve yet, may I offer the following suggestions before rebuild:

Close valve and fill tank (completely) with fresh water. 

Then open valve and drain a few seconds, then close, then re-open, two or three times.  This has the dual effect of high flow rate across the valve's gate guides, combined with the agitation effect of the opening/closing gate.  Many times the combination will clean the gate guides if not a really old crusty valve.

It that fails, then rebuild kits are available as mentioned.  If this is a fairly new valve, it probably has a plastic mold defect from manufacture.  In that case I would replace it.  Use surgical gloves.

FWIW

Chuck



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1989 MCI 102A3, Series 50, DDEC III, Allison 740D
Just Dallas
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« Reply #19 on: October 01, 2009, 11:16:41 AM »

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« Reply #20 on: October 01, 2009, 01:09:41 PM »

Thanks a lot guys.



I like the idea of having the third valve on there. It will take some serious thinking to get that in there, because we have literally NO space, but I will try to get it figured out.

I was surprised because it was leaking because it was a brand new valve. I can see that valve, and I did rinse it out up there.

Thanks again for the help.

God bless,

John

>
>
John,
Try this= http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/flush-king/20522  .
Only needed when dumping, good for rinsing as it has a garden hose attachment.
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MCI-9
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See my picture's at= http://groups.yahoo.com/group/busshellconverters/
That's Not Oil Dripping under my Bus, It's Sweat from all that Horsepower.
----- This space for rent. -----
Chuck Newman
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« Reply #21 on: October 01, 2009, 08:32:40 PM »

Dallas,

I was thinking of going with 3" ball valves on both black and gray tanks.  Both feed into a dual 3" Y connector.  I can get 3" ball valves for less than the 12 vdc operated RV gate valves on the market.

I was concerned with the torque necessary for a ball valve of that size (or even a 2-1/2" unit) on the ABS plumbing and tank attachment points.  I don't have room for straps at each end of the ball valves.  In fact, they will be in the air supported by short pieces of 3" ABS.  All the open/close stresses will be on the glued fittings.  How does that relate to your installation?  Thanks,

Chuck
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« Reply #22 on: October 02, 2009, 05:36:03 AM »

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« Reply #23 on: October 02, 2009, 08:44:20 AM »

Dallas,

I got it sir, thank you.  One last thing:  Is their any strength or longevity difference in using 3" sched 40 ABS vs 3" sched 40 PVC for the drain pipe function?

Thanks,

Chuck
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« Reply #24 on: October 02, 2009, 09:08:27 AM »

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PP
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« Reply #25 on: October 02, 2009, 03:26:38 PM »

Dallas, I really like the idea of a handle in the head for dumping without having to get out in the elements when you're already connected! Since the black tank and fittings are directly below the head, hmmmm
Thanks for the idea Grin
Will
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« Reply #26 on: October 02, 2009, 07:27:50 PM »

Thank you

This thread would not have been right without "PP" chiming in. Cheesy




Anyway,  how big is your tank and how often do you dump it.     A remote operator would be easy enough with a ball valve.
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PP
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« Reply #27 on: October 03, 2009, 11:04:43 AM »

HeHe!
The black is a 55G and usually lasts a week between dumps. Unless a remote will fit into the tight and convoluted plumbing arrangement I have, I'm thinking maybe a steel cable similar to a HD choke cable mounted behind the commode and through the floor connected to the first blade valve and not have to modify any of the arrangement. This is just a thought at this time, as for the most part I am quite happy with the arrangement, especially since installing the back flushers on both dirty tanks.
Will
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« Reply #28 on: October 03, 2009, 11:25:01 AM »

We have 120 black and 240 gray. There are 9 of us on board and that lasts us at least a week. We only have 80 gal fresh until we install the other tank. We figured that we can refill with fresh a lot more places then we can dump.

Dallas is right we don't have room for a ball valve. Bummer.

Sorry for any mistakes. I am on my Itouch.

God bless.

John
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MCI 1995 DL3. DD S60 with a Allison B500.
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