Wheel bearings are wheel bearings are wheel bearings are wheel bearings.
They are tapered roller bearings. The only difference between the bearings on the front axle and
those on the back drive axle is size. They all work the same way. If they work on 30W motor oil
(probably recommended because it's easy to get *anywhere* in case you need to add some),
they'll obviously work on 90W just as well if you can also run them on wheel-bearing grease,
whether it's lithium all-purpose grease or molybdenum (moly) grease used on disc-brake wheel
bearings on cars and light trucks.
Having to replace lug bolts because some lame-brained, knuckle-headed, idiotic, beyond stupid,
lazy, moronic, so-called "mechanic" took his testosterone-laced impact wrench to a lug nut has
nothing to do with lubricants.
The reason I'm ranting about the mechanic is because my daughter took her Subaru to a local
brake shop for a rear-brake repair. They replaced the pads and discs, then gave her an estimate
for about $800 worth of other work that was "needed", including new front pads, "swirling" the
discs (not turning them on a lathe), and new lower ball joints. When I took the left front wheel
off to start the work, I broke two lug bolts due to their over-torquiing. Had to replace all five
bolts. The pads were only about 45-50% worn from new, and did NOT need replacement.
I called the shop and they told me to bring it down and they'd look at it again. When it was
on the rack and the "mechanic" got his impact wrench out to pull the right-front wheel, I told
him to get his torque wrench instead and do it manually so we could check the torque. He
protested profusely, citing his extensive experience and certifications by ASE and a bunch of
other outfits and there was no possible way they could have screwed up. He asked me what
the torque spec was, and I told him it didn't matter. I wanted to know what the torque was
as they did it at the time of the inspection. He finally did. Set the torque wrench to click at
85 ft-lbs (spec torque for that vehicle) and it clicked without moving the nut. It took 95
foot-pounds to break loose. He told me I didn't know what I was talking about when I told
him it takes less torque to loosen than to tighten a bolt at a given tension.
I explained my credentials, but he was adamant. Finally the boss came over, told him to take
the car off the rack and do nothing more. I asked about the cost of replacing the over-torqued
lug bolts. He said that was my problem, not his. I replied, "See you in court." He said, "Fine."
I'm now taking this to the state attorney general and local DA for prosecution of violation of
Colorado motor vehicle fraud statutes. There is a minimum $500 fine for the business and for
the mechanic (employee, the law says) who made the "estimate".
There is also a recovery by the owner of the vehicle of 3 times damages plus attorney fees.
NEVER NEVER NEVER NEVER NEVER NEVER NEVER NEVER EVER take your car to a quick-lube
joint (my son lost his engine due to sloppy work at the local Jiffy Lube and the owner refused
to take care of it and wouldn't allow his insurance company to evaluate the problem), or to a
"just brakes", "brakes plus", or any other brakes joint. Always secure the services of a competent,
independent mechanic who has a solid reputation for competence. It may cost a few bucks more
and take a little more time, but your pocket book will thank you in the long run.
The local Ford dealership told me that the same Jiffy Lube mentioned above serviced a guy's
Ford van with 10W-30 instead of the 5W-(whatever is required) enine oil, and they had the
engine in their shop for replacement because of it. The fill cap on the engine specifies the oil
to be used, but they ignored it.
My good friend, the former DA for decades, cringes whenever I tell him I can really appreciate
why some people solve their problems with a shotgun.