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Author Topic: tongue and groove t&g cabinets, walls and ceiling  (Read 4032 times)
Tenor
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« on: January 30, 2010, 02:48:47 PM »

There have been several posts about t&g, so I thought I'd share pictures of what I've done.  Please excuse the mess.. We're under construction!  Wink  Here is a picture of the first cabinets in the bedroom.  The structure is all 3/4 inch thick pine, with 3/16th t&g used as panels and door inserts.    I used a Kreg jig to put this together.  It is finished in satin polyurethane.  I had originally planned to put shelves across the area between this cabinet and the matching on the other side.  The bottom panel is a small door to the bottom area.  The top panel is just an insert.  I also used the t&g to make window boxes by putting a piece of 1.5x1.5 against the wall and nailing the t&g to it.  easy to remove if you need to fix curtains!



Here, you can see I put 2 doors as access to the top part of the cabinet.  I will not put a door on the open hole by the pillows.  It's a great area to use as a night stand, and yet items can't fly forward in case of a quick stop.  You can also see the 1/4 inch luan on the ceiling where the t&g ends.  The center of the ceiling will get a short tunnel built the same way as the cabinets.  They'll be hinged so i can add wires and lights.



Here is the front cabinet over the kitchen and couch.  It's also built of 3/4 inch pine for the bulkheads and face and bottom.  The doors are the same, made on my table saw.  They are t&g construction, not Kreg.  It's really easy to build this way, if you don't have a shaper to make fancy door frames.  I'm going to build a router table and get some matched bits to do this on later projects.  



Here is the skeleton of the kitchen counter.  It's all 3/4 pine screwed together with a Kreg jig.  I'm not going to use drawer slides.  I don't mind the friction of the drawers to hold them in.  I'll also put a stop on the bottom of the drawers that will keep them popping open.  The stove will go on the left, drawers in the middle and shelf around the hot water heater on the right.  The sink goes over the water heater.



Here's a shot of the ceiling looking forward.  I love how the wood follows the curve of the ceiling.  Very boat-like.  I'll put a small cabinet across the front for maps and such.



This is the almost finished bedroom cabinet.  I decided to build in the middle and I lucked out.  I was able to remove the double doors from the sides, and move them to the middle.  The side openings were shortened by the middle sections and double doors would have been difficult to use.  





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Glenn Williams
Lansing, MI
www.threemenandatenor.com
1968 MCI 7 Ser. No. 7476 Unit No. 10056
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« Reply #1 on: January 30, 2010, 03:27:38 PM »

Very, very well done! I like the look!

Paul
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« Reply #2 on: January 30, 2010, 04:11:47 PM »

Nice, thanks for the pics. It gave me a better idea of where Im heading. Do you have any pics of how you framed around the windows ? What are your plans for the center ?
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John P, Lewiston NY   1987 MC 9 ...ex NJT
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« Reply #3 on: January 30, 2010, 04:18:43 PM »

I really like the design of the cabinet frames.  No extra weight from plywood.

Why did you choose 3/4" thick T&G?  Doesn't that add a lot of weight and cost?
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Brian Elfert - 1995 Dina Viaggio 1000 Series 60/B500 - 75% done but usable - Minneapolis, MN
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« Reply #4 on: January 30, 2010, 06:02:11 PM »

I had to wait a long time for the pictures to load, (dialup) but it was well worth it, You're doing a wonderful job! Looks awesome, Will
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JackConrad
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« Reply #5 on: January 30, 2010, 06:06:40 PM »

Why did you choose 3/4" thick T&G?  Doesn't that add a lot of weight and cost?

Brian,
    If I read Glen's post correctly, he made his doors/panels the way we made ours. A frame was made from 3/4" thick solid lumber the the T&G panel in the center of it is made from the 3 9/16" wide x 5/16" thick wainscoting they sell at Lowes & HD in packages of 6 piueces that are 8' long.  Jack
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Jason & Martha Blake
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« Reply #6 on: January 30, 2010, 07:02:24 PM »

Looks very well done, Keep up the good work. Jason
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« Reply #7 on: January 30, 2010, 07:09:52 PM »

I guess I meant the cabinet boxes/bases, not the frames.
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Brian Elfert - 1995 Dina Viaggio 1000 Series 60/B500 - 75% done but usable - Minneapolis, MN
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« Reply #8 on: January 30, 2010, 08:42:08 PM »

Glen,

We about to go where you have already been.

I getting ready to cover the inside of the ceiling with the T&G pine boards. 

Just today we took the ozite off the ceiling because it was not sticking and was sagging.

I already have the T&G.  We got the 3-5/16" wide, 5/16" thick, by 8' long.  Got it at a Lowe's (similar to Home Depot) and the price is very reasonable.

We placed it next to the oak cabinets (which have a Golden Oak stain) which are already mounted in the living room/kitchen and it matches well.  We are not going to stain the T&G, just cover with polyurethane sealer.

Looking forward to installing it.

Thanks for sharing your pictures, LOOKS GOOD !!!

Chris
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Chris & Cheryl Christensen
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« Reply #9 on: January 30, 2010, 10:02:54 PM »

So I just got done typing a nice long post and it dissapeared!  Oh well.  Thanks for the compliments everyone!

Brian, Jack has it right for the sizes and how I built it.  The 3/4 pine is really light because it's generally 2 inches wide or less.  For example, the kitchen cabinet frame maybe weighs 20 lbs. 

TF, for the center of the ceiling, I'm going to make more doors.  Between my lost post and this one I just figured it out.  I'll make some spacers using the 3/4 pine put on it's edge to create a tunnel for wires.  Every so often, where I want lights, I'll hang a crossmember from the bottom of the spacers.  This will also give me a place to install hinges and latches for the doors.  Gives me EASY access to the whole center of the ceiling.  I'll have to make them short enough not to block the vents from my roof airs.   As for the window frames, the best shot I have is the first one.  I just took scrap 1.5 x 1.5 pine (former wall studs in a travel trailer!  Grin) and screwed them to the wall on the sides and top of the metal window frames.  (Some measurements were done to clear my shades too).  Then, I cut a top piece, with 45 degree corners, and 2 side pieces with the corresponding 45 degree corners and air nailed them on.  No glue.  Small brads are easily removable if you need to fix shades, as I already have.  The great thing about having frames, is that you can hang black-out cloth/curtains over these to really darken the inside or insulate.  Someone with skill could actually use quilts made to fit the corners and hang.  Keeps the cold in and heat out and vice versa.

Chris, We got the t&g from Menards when it goes on sale.  We get the REAL cheap stuff, the stuff you sort through to find straight pices!  I tried to pay less than 5 bucks per package.  We have the Lowes and HD too. 

This bus is my first work with wood and I call it an over size high school shop project.  I can really see a difference from where I started to where i am now!  Fortunatley, my shop teacher is my father-in-law, a cabinet maker and former shop teacher!  He's shown me the ropes, but I've done the build and design.

Glenn
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Glenn Williams
Lansing, MI
www.threemenandatenor.com
1968 MCI 7 Ser. No. 7476 Unit No. 10056
8v71
4 speed Spicer
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« Reply #10 on: January 31, 2010, 06:34:39 AM »

I reread your original post.  I thought the T&G itself is 3/4".  I looks like only the structure itself is 3/4" which certainly makes sense.  It looks like you used the thin T&G.

I was thinking pine T&G would work good, but some of the others here are saying it would be too soft.  I like oak, but not the cost at 3 to 4 times what pine costs.
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Brian Elfert - 1995 Dina Viaggio 1000 Series 60/B500 - 75% done but usable - Minneapolis, MN
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« Reply #11 on: January 31, 2010, 07:07:37 AM »

Brian, yeah, the pine t&g is soft.  If you  a nervous dog, it will scrape and scratch.  Although, I think my dog would damage stainless steel! 

Glenn

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Glenn Williams
Lansing, MI
www.threemenandatenor.com
1968 MCI 7 Ser. No. 7476 Unit No. 10056
8v71
4 speed Spicer
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