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Author Topic: Are there different types of Power Cool coolant?  (Read 4827 times)
bryanhes
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« Reply #15 on: February 20, 2010, 08:53:32 PM »

Jim,

I did find where it says for auto or light duty trucks. But does have the ASTM D4985. The only other thing I see is: ethylene glycol (107-21-1) diethylene glycol (111-46-6) sodium 2-ethyl hexanoate (19766-89-3) and sodium neodecanoate (31548-27-3). I

Oh, and harmful or fatal if swallowed, causes birth defects in animals? Only animals  Cheesy Grin

Bryan
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belfert
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« Reply #16 on: February 21, 2010, 05:48:00 AM »

I would just buy a coolant that is Detroit Diesel 7SE298 certified and be done with it.  Automotive coolant is only a dollar or two less per gallon.

Fleet Charge is available at O'Reilly Auto Parts for $10 a gallon.  It is on the list of Detroit approved coolants.
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Brian Elfert - 1995 Dina Viaggio 1000 Series 60/B500 - 75% done but usable - Minneapolis, MN
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« Reply #17 on: February 21, 2010, 06:31:23 AM »

Ah the designer antifreeze DD with their pink and Cummins with their blue and then you have the green.
Fwiw I read where you can not use the Cat brand antifreeze made by Texaco in certain Cummins engines



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« Last Edit: February 21, 2010, 06:48:51 AM by luvrbus » Logged

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RichardEntrekin
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« Reply #18 on: February 21, 2010, 06:33:18 AM »

Jim, I have a confession. I don't get BCM. OOPs. You can send me an electronic copy of the article if you like to the email in my profile.

I agree with you, the coolant manufactures have obscured the issue unnecessarily....

On another note, the reason you want low silicate is this. Most understand that cavitation is bad. Cavitation is the little steam bubble that forms on the hot surface and then collapses. The collapse produces a shock wave that eats away at the surface that the bubble collapses on. After a while that eats through the surface aka cylinder liner

What the little bitty pieces of silicate ( a fancy word for dirt, sand, grit) do is form a precipitation site to help the bubble form and collapse. So coolant with high silicate content, or high mineral content cause you didn't use distilled water, will form bubbles easier.

Prove it to yourself. Put an inch of water in a pan on the stove and bring it to boil. You can see the bubbles start to form on the bottom of the pan.  Now replace the water with cool again and start over, except this time, put a couple of small pebbles in the pan. Look at where the bubbles start forming. If you measured the temp of the water you would see that the bubbles form earlier when you have the sediment in the water. Should take about one cold beer to run this experiment in your kitchen  :-)

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Richard Entrekin
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« Reply #19 on: February 21, 2010, 06:36:54 AM »

Here is some good reading about coolant. This is must reading in my opinion. Don't worry, it's not ChemE mumbo jumbo  :-)

http://www.ddcsn.com/cps/rde/xbcr/ddcsn/DDC-SVC-BRO-0002.pdf

http://extranet.detroitdiesel.com/Support/On-Highway/Manuals/Lubricants_Fuels_Coolants/Power_Guard_Oils/index4print_93K217.asp

http://www.truckersnews.com/a-science-experiment-under-your-hood/
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Richard Entrekin
95 Newell, Detroit S 60
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Huntington WV

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« Reply #20 on: February 21, 2010, 10:30:28 AM »

Richard, Thanks for posting the "factory links" for us.
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