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Author Topic: Bus Lug Bolts  (Read 4940 times)
gus
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« on: February 25, 2010, 07:43:59 PM »

After finding two stripped lug bolts on the rear of my 4104 I was surprised to find out that they are not like truck lug bolts.

These bolts are serrated and tapered like others but are held in the hub by nuts instead of having heads like most lug bolts??

I had always assumed new ones could be found at any heavy vehicle parts store. Not so, my local guy can't even get them.

Luckily I found them at my closest bus parts guy. I have no idea if other buses have this type but it is a good idea to find out ahead of time.

For reference they are Euclid p/n E-5920 w/L or R at the end for the thread direction you want. These are the 3/4" rears and come in different lengths. Fronts are larger, I didn't get that number but I did order five extras for each wheel.

Now comes the fun part of changing them - any helpful ideas?
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gumpy
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« Reply #1 on: February 26, 2010, 05:59:56 AM »

There's a page on my website that shows some do's and don't's on changing them. 

Best is to take the hub off and check the bearings and replace the seals, if you haven't done that recently. It's easiest to get the studs out with the hub off, but not impossible to
do it with the hub on. Disassemble the brakes and get them out of the way if you leave the hub on.

Basically, take the retaining nut off and drive the stud out of the hub with a large hammer. Put antiseize on the new stud and insert it in the hole. Then use a length of pipe about
1" diameter to just fit over the stud and seat on the flange and drive the new stud into the hub. Install new crimp-lock retaining nut and torque to specs. Pretty simple. Do not pound
on the stud end to insert it in the hub. That will compress the stud and swell it and your wheel nuts won't fit. Don't pull it in with the retaining nut. That could stretch the stud and fatigue
it. They should be pressed in using the flange or on a large hydraulic press.

craig
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Craig Shepard
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kyle4501
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« Reply #2 on: February 26, 2010, 07:35:00 AM »

I just consulted my manuals, both the original & the rebuild (PD4501). I was disappointed they didn't cover replacing wheel studs.


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johns4104s
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« Reply #3 on: February 26, 2010, 11:07:53 AM »

Use Craig's site it is second to none.

John
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gumpy
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« Reply #4 on: February 26, 2010, 02:54:15 PM »

Use Craig's site it is second to none.


Wow. When you really stop and thing about that saying, it's not really a good thing.  Isn't it really saying that my site ranks second to having no site at all??  Roll Eyes
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Craig Shepard
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JackConrad
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« Reply #5 on: February 26, 2010, 03:11:02 PM »

HMMM, I read it as your site is never second to any site, always first.  Jack
« Last Edit: February 27, 2010, 05:27:02 AM by JackConrad » Logged

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gus
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« Reply #6 on: February 26, 2010, 04:30:44 PM »

Good stuff Craig, thanks. Your website is on my bookmark.

As Kyle says, my manual has absolutely nothing about studs except it at least shows a drawing.

What should the stud nuts be torqued to?
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jackhartjr
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« Reply #7 on: February 26, 2010, 08:58:08 PM »

Stud piloted wheels should be torqued to 475 PSI.
Jack
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« Reply #8 on: February 27, 2010, 03:42:08 AM »

Quote from: gus
Good stuff Craig, thanks. Your website is on my bookmark.

As Kyle says, my manual has absolutely nothing about studs except it at least shows a drawing.

What should the stud nuts be torqued to?

Quote from: jackhartjr
Stud piloted wheels should be torqued to 475 PSI.
Jack

Jack he's referring to the stud retaining nuts themselves. FWIW
Grin  BK  Grin  (the politically incorrect busnut Wink !)
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« Reply #9 on: February 27, 2010, 12:24:09 PM »

Replace them all! I know, it's not my money I'm spending...but since you are right there with the hub off anyway, these studs do get wear so just replace all 10 of them while you are there and you will probably never have another problem...especially with the age of GMs etc.  Might as well replace the lug nuts too. Now granted, I sell parts, but also maintain a fleet of vehicles too.
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gus
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« Reply #10 on: February 27, 2010, 09:03:06 PM »

Dave,

That thought occurred to me but I only ordered 5, dumb! I found another marginal one today so I plan to use all five of them and order 5 more.

It would be nice if a re-threading tool existed for these bolts. A regular die is too large in diameter to do the job. Even a thread chaser would be nice but the bolt may be too hard for either. Or, the threads may be rolled for all I know!
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« Reply #11 on: February 27, 2010, 09:48:54 PM »

Hmm... Torque.  I don't know.  I just used my 1/2" impact wrench on the retaining nuts.  I know. I'm not supposed to say those nasty words on this forum, but....

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Craig Shepard
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« Reply #12 on: February 27, 2010, 09:53:25 PM »

Hmm... Torque.  I don't know.  I just used my 1/2" impact wrench on the retaining nuts.  I know. I'm not supposed to say those nasty words on this forum, but....

Wink
that's the way I do it! But then I take a breaker bar and a cheater pipe to it one last "little pull" just to be sure! Wink
Grin  BK  Grin

By the way Gus yes replace all 10 and be done with it for as long as you'll own the bus!
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Busted Knuckle aka Bryce Gaston
KY Lakeside Travel's Busted Knuckle Garage
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gus
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« Reply #13 on: February 28, 2010, 04:17:44 PM »

Well, I have one 1/2" air wrench that goes to 150lbft and one 1/2" that goes to 650!!

I think I better find a standard thread/torque chart somewhere!!

I assume these bolts are grade eight?
« Last Edit: February 28, 2010, 04:19:25 PM by gus » Logged

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kyle4501
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« Reply #14 on: February 28, 2010, 07:37:04 PM »

My bet is they are better than grade 8. The nuts are grade 8, so I'd think if you followed the torque chart for grade 8, you'd be good. I may use loc-tite if there is one suitable for the temps that the hub will see from the brake drum . . .
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