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Author Topic: HELP HELP HELP 1970 mci7  (Read 3490 times)
luvrbus
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« Reply #15 on: March 01, 2010, 03:50:38 PM »

I read it Dallas notice the date of July 2008 find yourself a current sheet dated Aug 19 2009 I have one straight from Chevron at Port Arthur TX I picked up on the way to Breaux Bridge last year and will drop a copy of it off to you with the Stone/Bennett manual.
Dallas no C rated oil can have over 1% ash as of Aug 2009 and of Aug 2010 it will be .50


good luck
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Just Dallas
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« Reply #16 on: March 01, 2010, 03:54:36 PM »

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« Last Edit: July 15, 2010, 03:17:09 AM by Now Just Dallas » Logged

I'm just an old chunk of coal... but I'm gonna be a diamond someday.
buswarrior
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« Reply #17 on: March 01, 2010, 05:04:21 PM »

Ash is bad for the new emissions equipment.

So, ash has been reduced in the new oils.

So, the next concern is whether the multi-weight oil in question can withstand the forces in the crank journals of a DD 2 stroke.

Even if we get the engineering ok, I'm thinking the DD will still consume a multi-weight oil at a higher rate than a heavier straight 40?

happy coaching!
buswarrior
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viento1
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« Reply #18 on: March 01, 2010, 09:09:55 PM »

Welcome,

I am from Alberta and the one day air brake course (endorsement) is required... My wife passed with better marks than me.

Since we are kinda discussing oil -  What about that cheap 40wt stuff from Wall Mart?
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RJ
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« Reply #19 on: March 02, 2010, 03:12:26 PM »

Ah, the infamous 2-stroke oil discussion!


So, the next concern is whether the multi-weight oil in question can withstand the forces in the crank journals of a DD 2 stroke.



I don't think this takes an engineer to figure out.

15/40 oil starts with a thin 15 wt oil and has polymers added to make it act like 40 wt oil in addition to the various other magic elixirs the oil companies add.  The polymers break down with heat/age - I've seen this written in several different places other than the bus BBSs.

Straight 40 wt oil is just that - straight 40 wt, without polymers, but with the elixirs.

FWIW & HTH. . .

 Wink
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RJ Long
PD4106-2784 No More
Fresno CA
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« Reply #20 on: March 02, 2010, 03:23:11 PM »

Moose,
Just to make sure you understand the air system. It is normal for the air to "build up" to 120 and then as air is used (for brakes, air suspension, air wipers, throttle, etc) it will drop down to 90 before the compressor kicks in and builds it up again. The key is how quickly it loses the air. Most of these buses leak a reasonable amount but the compressors are capable of keeping up the pressure. You just need to spend some time hunting out any leaks and making sure that the loss is from use, not from leakage.

John
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RJ
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« Reply #21 on: March 02, 2010, 03:41:15 PM »

Trevor -

This might be interesting reading for you:

http://www.busnut.com/bbs/messages/12262/16203.html?1167072614


FWIW & HTH. . .

 Wink
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RJ Long
PD4106-2784 No More
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Stormcloud
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« Reply #22 on: March 02, 2010, 07:19:09 PM »

I have been using the cheap WalMart 40w oil. Rated CF-2, in 20L (5 gallon) pails, and about $40 per pail.

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Mark Morgan    near Brandon, Manitoba, Canada
1972 MCI-7     'PapaBus'  8v-71N MT654 Automatic
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« Reply #23 on: March 02, 2010, 09:31:02 PM »


Hi;
    Welcome to bus madness. I too have a 70' MC-7.  For the air
    cycling issue try using shop air to air up the bus and listen for
    leaks. Mine will go up to 120 psi and then bleed off to about
    100 psi all in about10-15 minutes time at hiway speeds.
    As for the oil leak, see approx where abouts under the motor,
    the oil puddle ends up.  If it is on the left side of the motor,
    then check your oil filter. The first couple of hundred miles or
    so after an oil change, they leak and need to be tightened up
    a little. What is the unit number of your bus? Should be 105xxx.
                                Good luck,    Merle.

 
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moose
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« Reply #24 on: March 02, 2010, 10:41:49 PM »

hello all
my 1970 MCI7 vin # 8350 this found on the blower box of the bus
any where else i should look to find another number
my MCI on the front of bus is a gold one solid brass ,i was told this is rare

i am going to put shop air on this weekend .
my cycle time in the air system on highway at 60 mph is about 10 min 120 to 90 then back up
thanks
trevor
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bevans6
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« Reply #25 on: March 03, 2010, 04:58:42 AM »

Couple of thoughts.  they leak like crazy when they are cold, and it's cold in Alberta right now...  Not sure if that is better or worse for chasing and fixing leaks...

10 minutes to lose 30 psi of air while driving without applying the brakes or otherwise using air is more than I would think normal.  That's 3 psi per minute, and that is the maximum allowable loss during the brake application test that is part of the daily inspection.

Last oil change I used the Walmart SAE 40 oil.  My oil consumption was high - about 500 or 600 mpg.  I hadn't done that much mileage before the change, maybe 800 in short trips, but I recall I was more worried about a fuel leak filling the sump than having to top up all the time, so I am going to change to another oil and see what happens.  I have no idea why one type of oil would lead to dramatically more use than another type of oil, but the anecdotal evidence is that it can, so I will try the change and see what happens.

On my MCI the VIN plate is riveted on the upper wall directly above and behind the driver's head.  And where you found it, in the blower compartment.

Brian

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1980 MCI MC-5C, 8V-71T from a M-110 self propelled howitzer
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