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Author Topic: Whats the going Rate to have Spray Foam Insulation Applied???  (Read 6937 times)
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« on: March 14, 2010, 11:06:09 AM »

Trying to get all my ducks in a row and figure out my budget for the conversion. Thinking I am leaning towards the Spray Foam Insulation over Foam Board at the moment. Was just wondering what kind of dollar figure most of you guys spent to have this done. Especially the ones that had it done in my part of the Country (North Carolina) as I know pricing varies according to regions. Did you contact a company that does home insulation to do it, or did you have a company do it that specializes in refridgerated trailers? Any info would be helpful. Thanks Jimmy
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« Reply #1 on: March 14, 2010, 11:21:51 AM »

I asked a home insulation company about the cost for their spray foam.  $1 per inch of thickness per square foot.  They typically don't fill the cavity completely to avoid removing the excess, but they are used to dealing with 3 1/2" thick cavities.

This is in Minneapolis, Minnesota.  They said would probably give a discount for bringing the bus to them.
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Brian Elfert - 1995 Dina Viaggio 1000 Series 60/B500 - 75% done but usable - Minneapolis, MN
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« Reply #2 on: March 14, 2010, 01:38:58 PM »

I have had a lot of coaches foamed at my shop. The price to do 3 inches is 2K Fred
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cody
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« Reply #3 on: March 14, 2010, 01:53:41 PM »

I wonder what would happen if a person had a bus ready to be foamed and drove it over to where the crew was foaming a house and just brought up the subject over a beer at the end of the day lol.
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« Reply #4 on: March 14, 2010, 02:43:53 PM »

I have no idea if the price I was quoted is any good or not.  I never checked around as I wasn't ready to actually buy.

I only asked these guys because they insulated my house.  I only had a small area of the house spray foamed and they charged me the $400 minimum.  If I had been on the ball I probably could have had some spray foam put in the bus with the rest of my $400.
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Brian Elfert - 1995 Dina Viaggio 1000 Series 60/B500 - 75% done but usable - Minneapolis, MN
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« Reply #5 on: March 14, 2010, 02:46:18 PM »

You can purchase foam kits that you spray yourself, somewhere around $2.00 per board foot, generally the largest you can get is 550-600 bf and will cost $750-1300...depending.
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« Reply #6 on: March 14, 2010, 03:14:09 PM »

I did the do it your self kit. I think it was the 550-600 bf. I would have to say I was pretty happy with it. I got about a 1/3 of the bus done. Price was in the $600.00 range.
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« Reply #7 on: March 14, 2010, 03:39:46 PM »

You can purchase foam kits that you spray yourself, somewhere around $2.00 per board foot, generally the largest you can get is 550-600 bf and will cost $750-1300...depending.

How are they defining a board foot?  1" thick for a square foot just like lumber?
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Brian Elfert - 1995 Dina Viaggio 1000 Series 60/B500 - 75% done but usable - Minneapolis, MN
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« Reply #8 on: March 14, 2010, 04:13:29 PM »

How are they defining a board foot?  1" thick for a square foot just like lumber?

Yes    Jack
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« Reply #9 on: March 14, 2010, 04:37:36 PM »

I wonder what would happen if a person had a bus ready to be foamed and drove it over to where the crew was foaming a house and just brought up the subject over a beer at the end of the day lol.

Cody ya need to bring up the subject during lunch, and that there will be COLD BEER at the end of the day. That way they can hop on it before cleaning up the equipment! Wink
Grin  BK  Grin
(then you get to spend the rest of the afternoon icing down the beer and final prep work before they start spraying! Grin)
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« Reply #10 on: March 14, 2010, 07:29:29 PM »

This is sort of on topic...

My new to me Prevost (I still need to compose a post about the new bus) has spray foam on the inside AND on the outside.  The entire undercarriage is spray foamed.  The foam underneath is not bad as you cannot see it without crawling under the bus, but inside the wheel wells the foam is peeling/chipping/degrading and looks bad.  In addition, the previous owner had a flat on the driver's tag and did some damage to that area - the slinging tread knocked off a large portion of the foam.  I picked at some of the foam in that area and found it was pretty easy to remove. My question is, what is the downside to removing all of the foam from the wheel wells?  If I remove it, should I replace it with paint, undercoating, Rhino Liner, or something else?  By the way, the PO said the flat did all of this damage, but if you look down the side of the bus you can see where he (or someone else) scraped up against something.



In addition to the fender flare, he ripped the grill off of the vent hole for the generator radiator.



Here is one more to hold everyone until I compose my "I just bought another bus" post.



Brian S.
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Brian Shonk
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« Reply #11 on: March 14, 2010, 08:30:49 PM »

Brian I wouldn't remove the foam.   My Prevost has the same sprayed foam.  I have touched up the missing "rock and debris hits" foam with the touch up expandable foam (spray can) that  you get at HD or Lowes.

It really does protect the interior of the wheel well, and insulates the inside of the bus from road noise.
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« Reply #12 on: March 14, 2010, 09:41:20 PM »

Best prices are at trailer dealers like Great Dane,Fruehaul,Wabash,Strick along with other refer trailer dealers and a plus is they know what they are doing 


good luck
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« Reply #13 on: March 15, 2010, 08:31:42 AM »

Spraying foam is one of those jobs I'll leave to the professionals.  I had 2.25" sprayed into my bus and it's the best thing I had done.  One it really smells (if it is the industrial grade stuff).  And it sticks to just about anything, so forget reusing your clothes again.  Then grinding it down to the surface again-lots of mess also. 
When mine was done, the crew of two got to my bus at 8pm and worked all night since it was cooler.  Were done at 6am with the bus cleaned up.  Was one of the best $1650.00 I spent, and will have my truck done that way again.  Good Luck, TomC
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« Reply #14 on: March 15, 2010, 08:55:23 AM »

I chose a different method

I used Rmax ->> http://www.rmaxinc.com/wall-r-matte-plus3.asp ".......R-Matte Plus-3 is a rigid foam plastic thermal insulation board composed of environmentally sound, closed cell, polyisocyanurate foam bonded to a durable white-matte (non-glare) aluminum facer and a reflective reinforced aluminum facer. This product is suitable for use in wall sheathing applications in new residential, commercial and agricultural buildings and for thermal retrofit construction to existing buildings. R-Matte Plus-3 is ideal for use in both frame and masonry construction. R-Matte Plus-3 is available in ½", 5/8" and ¾" thicknesses, as well as, several different lengths....."  Reflective foil one one side - non-glare alum on the other side

I just keep ALL THE DOOR AND WINDOWS OPEN - and used SOLVENT based contact cement - with a roller I just applied cement to the roof and to aluminum surface of the foam - I used muliple smaller pieces to make it easier - wait 60 second - then just TOUCHED to two glued surfaces together - tap them with a mallet and a small 2 x 4 - You would need a stick of dynamite to get them down

I framed my ceiling with 2 x 3 and left chanels for my "H" pattern "DUCTED A/C VENTS"  - have pictures if you need to see what I did  - I used multiple layers of foam to a total of 2.5" in most areas - I used the silver A/C duct tape on the seams (just to be sure ??)

The results were absolutely amazing - My RTS with it's huge windows (they are tinted) will HOLD TEMP a long long time - It's like driving in a thermos bottle

JUST MY WAY -
« Last Edit: March 15, 2010, 08:57:52 AM by RTS/Daytona » Logged

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« Reply #15 on: March 15, 2010, 09:38:19 AM »

 A good thing about spray foam it seals your bus but it does have drawbacks also 1 it starts losing the R Value from day one and if the installer is not careful it will result in crappy looking exterior sides and you have to put up with the fumes for 6 months plus if you have a leak it is almost impossible to trace.
I have hot spray foam but I am not for sure I would do it again with all the hi tech stuff on the market today




good luck
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« Reply #16 on: March 15, 2010, 12:17:54 PM »

I chose a different method

I used Rmax ->> http://www.rmaxinc.com/wall-r-matte-plus3.asp ".......R-Matte Plus-3 is a rigid foam plastic thermal insulation board composed of environmentally sound, closed cell, polyisocyanurate foam bonded to a durable white-matte (non-glare) aluminum facer and a reflective reinforced aluminum facer. This product is suitable for use in wall sheathing applications in new residential, commercial and agricultural buildings and for thermal retrofit construction to existing buildings. R-Matte Plus-3 is ideal for use in both frame and masonry construction. R-Matte Plus-3 is available in ½", 5/8" and ¾" thicknesses, as well as, several different lengths....."  Reflective foil one one side - non-glare alum on the other side

I just keep ALL THE DOOR AND WINDOWS OPEN - and used SOLVENT based contact cement - with a roller I just applied cement to the roof and to aluminum surface of the foam - I used muliple smaller pieces to make it easier - wait 60 second - then just TOUCHED to two glued surfaces together - tap them with a mallet and a small 2 x 4 - You would need a stick of dynamite to get them down

I framed my ceiling with 2 x 3 and left chanels for my "H" pattern "DUCTED A/C VENTS"  - have pictures if you need to see what I did  - I used multiple layers of foam to a total of 2.5" in most areas - I used the silver A/C duct tape on the seams (just to be sure ??)

The results were absolutely amazing - My RTS with it's huge windows (they are tinted) will HOLD TEMP a long long time - It's like driving in a thermos bottle

JUST MY WAY -


Just exactly how many layers or inches thick of foamboard did you end up with after it was all installed? Also, which facing (The reflective or Non-glare)is turned inwards towards the interior of the bus? Thanks...
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« Reply #17 on: March 15, 2010, 12:38:10 PM »

J,

Lots of folks use a method that is prohibitively expensive to us because they got some sort of SUPER deal on materials.  This sounds like one of those, as multiple layers defeats the foil and vinyl backing by embedding it in the wall.  Price out your job and spray hot foam should come in cheapest.  Only spray will make your bus silent...seal all the air permeation leaks, add structural strength and is done in ONE DAY by someone else.  Very little savings in DIY kits and historically that method was 25% costlier.  Polyiso board 2 inches by 8 feet think is $36.  So 30 sheets is $1.060 plus glue and a weeks cutting and then spray foam in a can for the edges and alu furnace tape....etc.  Spray foam always come out ahead.  One knut said he cold no longer tell if the 8V92 in his 9 was running.
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« Reply #18 on: March 16, 2010, 09:36:52 AM »

Ok here goes. When investigating sprayed foam it is important what type we are talking about. Closed sell or open cell. Also whether it is polyurethane or something else. Sorry I don't remember the other types. Polyurethane over time will lose it's R value as it begins to break down. Don't know exactly how long this takes. When spraying hot foam whoever the installer is (you or a contractor) must make sure not to go to thick too fast as it will bubble out your siding. When considering cost of sprayed will the contractor shave down the excess & get rid of it or is this up to you. How long that takes I don't know.
    Now let's talk polyiso board. With a little research & calling you can find a commercial roofing installer who does rubber roofs. They install the polyiso board as underlayment. Reason- Insulation- Ah Ha now we're talking. There is a chance that they might have some in the thickness you need. This may be left over from jobs, etc. I found some 1 1/2 inch thick sheets 4 x 8 for $5 each. That's possibly 1/4 the price new. 30 sheets cost me $150. The 1 1/2 inch was what I needed for my Eagle. Cut & install took me 2 days. I must interject here that I will not be able to tell you how well it works for me till June when it gets pretty warm. I can however say that I know a couple of busses done this way & they are fine. I also know of a couple of busses done with spray foam & they are fine. One of those owners however had the misfortune of the bubbled out siding. He had to pull everything & completely reside. Once he had it sprayed again all went fine. He loves it. Hope this helps. 
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John Mellis
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« Reply #19 on: March 16, 2010, 09:46:12 AM »

Brian I wouldn't remove the foam.   My Prevost has the same sprayed foam.  I have touched up the missing "rock and debris hits" foam with the touch up expandable foam (spray can) that  you get at HD or Lowes.

It really does protect the interior of the wheel well, and insulates the inside of the bus from road noise.

Zeroclearance,
  I am getting ready to build back my drop in insulation pans over the wheel wells. I thought of using the spray foam instead of undercoating in the wheel wells.
Clifford, what's your thoughts on doing this? Is it overkill or an added bonus for insulation & sound deadening.
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John Mellis
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« Reply #20 on: March 16, 2010, 10:35:17 AM »

My bus has both spray foam and undercoating in some areas.  The entire bus was factory undercoated and they went right over the spray foam. 

Most of the bus (except over the luggage bays) has a metal sort of a belly pan under the plywood floor that is filled with spray foam.  In the driver's area they spray foamed on the the underside and left the spray foam exposed.
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Brian Elfert - 1995 Dina Viaggio 1000 Series 60/B500 - 75% done but usable - Minneapolis, MN
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