Bus Conversions dot Com Bulletin Board
August 30, 2014, 03:10:42 PM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: If you had an E-Mag Subscription: You can zoom in to make the text larger and easier to read.
   Home   Help Forum Rules Search Calendar Login Register BCM Home Page Contact BCM  
Pages: [1]   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: MC7 Wheel bearings  (Read 1052 times)
txjeff
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 115





Ignore
« on: April 26, 2010, 02:32:14 PM »

I removed the oil covers to drain the oil in the front wheel bearings, I noticed some pitting on the bearings. Long story short I have the MCI part numbers but I am looking for OTC bearing and seal numbers. Im trying to get the parts before I tear it down, any idea where I might be able to cross the numbers?

jeff
Logged

73 MC-7combo
Brenham, Texas
harpold700 3
Newbie
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 40


72 mc7 8-71 stick




Ignore
« Reply #1 on: April 26, 2010, 02:41:57 PM »

Should be able to pop old bearing and race out and any parts outlet will be able to use the numbers.
Logged
txjeff
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 115





Ignore
« Reply #2 on: April 26, 2010, 03:19:31 PM »

I was trying to get the parts before I tore it down..........doing it on the weekend... Shocked
Logged

73 MC-7combo
Brenham, Texas
junkman42
Sr. Member
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 451





Ignore
« Reply #3 on: April 26, 2010, 06:29:23 PM »

Jeff, just a quick one to let You know of My hassle with a tag axle oil seal and wear sleeve.  I do not know if this applys to the front wheel or not but I can tell You that the seal and wear sleeve for the tag axle is at least for Me impossible to get.  I had Luke overnight a seal and wear sleeve to Me the day before Christmas so I could make bussin 2010!  You can probably find the seal but the wear sleeve is another story.  If Your sleeve's are in good shape I would not mess with them.  It does require a special driver to install them.  You might ask some of the folks on the board about the seal and wear sleeve.  Regards, John L
Logged
rv_safetyman
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2199


Jim Shepherd


WWW

Ignore
« Reply #4 on: April 26, 2010, 07:13:33 PM »

Getting the bearings out is very straight forward.  However, getting the races out and new ones installed properly can be a real challenge.  When I did mine, it became obvious to me that I needed to have a shop press the old ones out and the new ones in. 

In a car application you can easily drive the races out and install the new ones.  If the new one is not properly seated, you can do that by torquing the bearings and then backing off the adjusting nut.  My limited experience would suggest you can't do that with the size of bearings/races that our buses have.  Remember, if the race is not properly seated, a short driving distance will seat them and then you have a bearing out of adjustment - perhaps significantly.

Jim
Logged

Jim Shepherd
Evergreen, CO
85 Eagle 10/Series 60/Eaton AutoShift 10 speed transmission
Somewhere between a tin tent and a finished product
Bus Project details: http://beltguy.com/Bus_Project/busproject.htm
Blog:  http://rvsafetyman.blogspot.com/
mikelutestanski
Sr. Member
****
Online Online

Posts: 381


Mikes Metal Mistress




Ignore
« Reply #5 on: April 27, 2010, 05:57:24 AM »

Hello;     You might try mohawk supply they usually will give you the bearing nomenclature if you ask.   
   As far as getting the cups out of the hub it is usually easier if you take your time and think about what you are doing. THe idea is to keep the cup as even as possible in the race to get it to move out. Tapping with a hardwood block is the best and usually works if you dont have a press available. The same with putting the replacement in. Proper cleaning is a requirement to make sure the cavity is clean and no burrs are present. If you are in doubt as to the proper positioning use a feeler gage to ascertain if the cup is bottomed out.   As I first said think about what you are doing and take your time. After the first one the rest are easy.
   Regards and happy bussin  mike
Logged

Mike Lutestanski   Dunnellon Florida
  1972 MCI 7
  L10 Cummins  B400R  4.625R
rv_safetyman
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2199


Jim Shepherd


WWW

Ignore
« Reply #6 on: April 27, 2010, 07:49:41 AM »

Mike, I am not sure what the differences might be between an Eagle and an MCI (or other buses) are, but I watched the shop push my races out with a large hydraulic press and the proper tool and it took a huge amount of pressure.  These were the drive axle hubs on my bus and they are aluminum.  Perhaps because of the expansion rate, the interference is greater on these hubs. 

I suspect that I could have gotten the races out if I had heated the hub, but I did not have a way of uniformly heating the large mass.

Jim
Logged

Jim Shepherd
Evergreen, CO
85 Eagle 10/Series 60/Eaton AutoShift 10 speed transmission
Somewhere between a tin tent and a finished product
Bus Project details: http://beltguy.com/Bus_Project/busproject.htm
Blog:  http://rvsafetyman.blogspot.com/
harpold700 3
Newbie
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 40


72 mc7 8-71 stick




Ignore
« Reply #7 on: April 27, 2010, 08:07:46 AM »

Drive race with large round steel punch. most hubs are aluminum, do not heat the hub. If race will not punch out ,weld a bead on the face of the race and it will shrink in the hub bore, will darn near fall out on it's own.    Drive race back in keeping a good square contact with the race, Don't worry about steel driver on race they are hard.  You will hear the race botton out in the hub, your driver will start to "ring"  I would not recommend re-use of the wiper ring.  It's already appart use new. Depending on the condition of your stub shaft, maybe consider a seal that wipes on it's self, CR perhaps, they install in the hub very easy and no wiper ring is necessary, just reinstall hub with a light coat of lube to the stub shaft/ inner seal surface.   Bearings and races might seem intimidating but they are quite easy after you get one done.  I do this often on my log truck and trailer, never a failure. I know you can do it, you soon will be expert.   Gord
Logged
LUKE at US COACH
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 111




Ignore
« Reply #8 on: April 27, 2010, 08:51:33 AM »

Hi Txjeff & Folks:

If you give me a call, we can fix you up with the parts you need. Our toll free number is: 1-888-262-2434.  I hope this HELPS!!!

Happy & SAFE!!! Bussin' to All.

LUKE at US COACH

Logged
Chopper Scott
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1298


MCI 7




Ignore
« Reply #9 on: April 27, 2010, 10:46:05 AM »

A tip that gets mentioned from time to time is to place the race in the freezer for several hours and then quickly drive it in the hub. Also a little oil on the mating surfaces. Leaving the hub in the sun for awhile helps also. Make one part smaller and one larger.
Logged

Seven Heaven.... I pray a lot every time I head down the road!!
Bad decisions make good stories.
Pages: [1]   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.18 | SMF © 2013, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!