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Author Topic: How do you remove a HT745CR from an 8V71?  (Read 5518 times)
kyle4501
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« on: July 10, 2010, 08:43:22 AM »

I've looked thru the manuals I have, but I can't seem to find the removal procedure.
I've looked at the engine/ transmission assembly & it isn't obvious as to where the access is for the bolts holding the flex plate to the torque converter.

The engine & trans are still on the cradle, but out of the bus.

THANKS!
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Brian Diehl
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« Reply #1 on: July 10, 2010, 08:52:21 AM »

Kyle,
On the engine side of the flywheel housing on the opposite side from the starter you will find a little access cover you can remove.  Through this you can then remove the flexplate bolts.
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kyle4501
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« Reply #2 on: July 10, 2010, 10:28:53 AM »

I don't see one there.  Sad
Here are 3 pictures. The previous owner got frustrated & took a sledge hammer to the housing adapter in an effort to see what was needed & gave up before removing the transmission.
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kyle4501
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« Reply #3 on: July 10, 2010, 10:32:03 AM »

Oh, another thing, the engine is locked up - water got in Thur the air cleaner while it was still in the bus . . . .  Sad
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Brian Diehl
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« Reply #4 on: July 10, 2010, 11:54:38 AM »

Kyle, did you check for a "plug" on the opposite side as the damage?  I thought on my 6v92 there was an access "portal" on the engine facing side of the flywheel housing.
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kyle4501
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« Reply #5 on: July 10, 2010, 12:34:56 PM »

Hey Brian,
No "plug" or "portal" to be found.
I'm considering using a hole saw since the adapter housing is already broken. . .
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Just Dallas
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« Reply #6 on: July 10, 2010, 02:10:36 PM »

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« Last Edit: July 14, 2010, 06:30:34 PM by Now Just Dallas » Logged

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kyle4501
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« Reply #7 on: July 10, 2010, 06:27:49 PM »

That it is. From the picture in the manual, it looks like there may be a dozen of them.

The question is how does one gain access for the purpose of removing them? Short of having to add holes? How did they bolt it up in the first place? Working thru the starter hole would require a special wrench to get the offset required (of course the bolts don't line up with the hole).
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luvrbus
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« Reply #8 on: July 10, 2010, 07:38:09 PM »

There should be a plug with a 1/2 inch square drive to remove it with right above the starter 1/2 inch bolts with a 3/4 head check both sides of the block sometimes it is on the opposite side



good luck
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kyle4501
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« Reply #9 on: July 11, 2010, 05:04:20 AM »

Hey Clifford,
Thanks for the suggestion, but there aren't any plugs. On the opposite side from the starter, there is an indention where I'd like a plug to be, so I'm guessing I'll have to make my own access plug with a hole saw.

While I'm asking, do you have any suggestions for turning the crank? The motor is stuck & I don't want to damage the starter ring gear. Is pulling the heads & removing the liners/ pistons & rods as an assembly a practical way to go? It is an old block with the large airbox covers. I took off a valve cover & the motor looks clean inside- no sludge.

Thanks again,
Kyle
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Chopper Scott
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« Reply #10 on: July 11, 2010, 05:25:58 PM »

When you said it was locked up I was also wondering how you would turn it over to access the bolts regardless of any opening. Can you get to the bolts through the starter hole? One idea also is with all the tranny bolts removed can you revolve the tranny seperate from the engine to get to any access holes even if you finish making your own? Just a thought Kyle. Later
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kyle4501
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« Reply #11 on: July 11, 2010, 07:18:41 PM »

So, the consensus is there is no magic trick to this - It is straight forward - Remove the flex plate bolts & unbolt the transmission. The fact that there is no direct access port for the flex plate bolts just means the guy that installed it didn't mind working thru the starter hole - He must have had a special wrench. Looks like I'll make one for myself.  Cool

But first, I have to disassemble the engine & get to the point I can rotate the crank. . . .

Buying cheap has it's pro's & con's.  Grin  Cool 

Always wanted to tear into a 2 stroke to see what makes 'em tick - without worry about having to put it back together.  Roll Eyes
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« Reply #12 on: July 11, 2010, 10:54:58 PM »

I know on car automatics, it is the flex plate that holds the torque converter in place-meaning, if you remove the bell housing bolts, you can remove the transmission from the engine, but the torque converter will stay behind since it is on splines.  Now, as to the big Allison transmission doing this-maybe someone can clarify if this trick could work.  Good Luck, TomC
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« Reply #13 on: July 12, 2010, 05:22:36 AM »

I was going to say the same thing as TomC - any automatic I've re  and re'd the torque converter was bolted to the flex plate and input shaft was splined to it.  So I dug out my 5C manual and it says the torque converter is piloted on the crank end and bolted to the flex plate from the engine side of the flex plate, opposite to the transmission.  The torque converter really seems to be an integral part of the gearbox.

Brian
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kyle4501
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« Reply #14 on: July 12, 2010, 05:57:14 AM »

From my flipping thru the manual, I got the impression the torque converter is bolted to the transmission. NOTE - I did not read this section as I am not the least bit interested in taking the transmission apart, I already have enough loose parts lying around  Roll Eyes.

From what I saw, to remove the torque converter from the transmission, you have to first remove the bolts holding the engine side converter half from the transmission side half, then you can separate the halves to gain access to the big nut holding the transmission side half to the input shaft.

Even if the TC slipped out of the transmission as it does on cars, I'd still have to access the bolts to remove the tc from the flex plate. I sort of need the torque converter & flex plate so I can put this transmission in my bus.  Grin
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