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Author Topic: Need help with Peninsula Window installation  (Read 1472 times)
belfert
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« on: August 18, 2006, 04:45:34 PM »

If you have installed Peninsula windows, did you use the Norton closed cell tape or caulk to seal the windows to the bus?  Peninsula supplies closed cell tape

Craig Shepard (Gumpy) recommends not using closed cell tape with Peninsula style windows because he has leaks and had to reinstall them with butyl caulk.

I am hoping to start window installation tomorrow if the rain holds off.

Brian Elfert

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JimW7
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« Reply #1 on: August 18, 2006, 05:08:05 PM »

I used silicon caulk. The experiance I've had with cell tape just hasn't worked here in MN. In the winter, thawing snow on the roof will run down the sides of the bus, and re-freeze part way down the side. As it freezes, it has ( at least to me) forced it's way through the tape, and made it's way into the bus. I removed all the windows, and used silicon, no more problem. Jim.
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1970 MCI 7 serial # 8425
belfert
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« Reply #2 on: August 18, 2006, 05:10:48 PM »

I used silicon caulk. The experiance I've had with cell tape just hasn't worked here in MN. In the winter, thawing snow on the roof will run down the sides of the bus, and re-freeze part way down the side. As it freezes, it has ( at least to me) forced it's way through the tape, and made it's way into the bus. I removed all the windows, and used silicon, no more problem. Jim.

Why silicone instead of something like butyl caulk?  I don't like silicone on something that will be painted.

Brian Elfert
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JimW7
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« Reply #3 on: August 18, 2006, 05:30:08 PM »

I'm sure butyl will work just fine. I used silicone because I've had good luck with it in the past. Because of the frames on my windows, ther is no exposed silicone. So painting wasn't a problem. The first winter after the new Peninsula's were in, thinking I did a really good job, and then finding a giant cave-like stalagtite where my living room was going to be was quite a let down. I installed my windows alone, and I only wanted to r&r them once, so I went to the lumberyard, and bought silicone sealant/adhesive, so I wouldn't ever have to do it again. I don't know if anyone in the rest of the country has our unique weather. My problems were at about 20+- -10. You're right, if any caulk is going to be painted, silicone won't work.
Jim
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belfert
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« Reply #4 on: August 18, 2006, 05:39:09 PM »

I'm sure butyl will work just fine. I used silicone because I've had good luck with it in the past. Because of the frames on my windows, ther is no exposed silicone. So painting wasn't a problem. The first winter after the new Peninsula's were in, thinking I did a really good job, and then finding a giant cave-like stalagtite where my living room was going to be was quite a let down. I installed my windows alone, and I only wanted to r&r them once, so I went to the lumberyard, and bought silicone sealant/adhesive, so I wouldn't ever have to do it again. I don't know if anyone in the rest of the country has our unique weather. My problems were at about 20+- -10. You're right, if any caulk is going to be painted, silicone won't work.

Do you have the MC9 Peninsula windows or the regular ones with the flange on the outside?  I have the regular ones, so silicone should work just as good for me as for you if you have the regular windows.  I'm still concerned about silicone, because I suspect if I get anywhere it shouldn't be that paint will never stick.

Maybe you have small windows, but mine are 5 foot by 3 foot and I would never try to install 60 pound windows myself.  I am getting help for this part.

I am in Minneapolis, Minnesota and it gets down to -10F at least once each winter.  Where are you in Minnesota?  I'll skip the tape and use the caulk.

Brian Elfert
« Last Edit: August 18, 2006, 05:41:07 PM by belfert » Logged
phil4501
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« Reply #5 on: August 18, 2006, 05:41:52 PM »

I use dum dum, similar to butyl tape, buy it from a glass shop not the RV store. There is alot of difference in the quality. I can provide part #'s if you wish.
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Devin & Amy
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« Reply #6 on: August 18, 2006, 05:56:44 PM »

Brian,

I used butyl tape. It was good, just make sure its not a really hot day as the tape will tend to sag on you.
I also have a 9, and the windows sure are heavy. i did it by myself because I had to, but I do go 6'6" and 250 lbs. so I have the reach. The scaffold I made with two ladders and a 2x12 was absolutely necessary.

Be careful with those little c clips for the hinge pins, they tend to break. I have some extras if you need them.

Good luck
Devin
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JimW7
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« Reply #7 on: August 18, 2006, 05:58:54 PM »

I have an MC7, so my windows are smaller. I don't know the weight, but six windows were over 430# shipping. Mine have the flange all the way around. I was being stubborn and didn't want to ask for help. They were easier than putting the roof airs on. I live up by Pine City, and used to drive a truck route in the cities, so I can find my way around. I was at Gumpy's for a lesson on welding your own poly tanks. I don't know how he finds the time to do everything. Where are you in Mpls?  I had spilled some silicon on the sides of the bus when I installed the windows. Didn't notice until it was sandind time for the paint shop. After sanding, paint has stuck well. Would like to see your bus sometime. Good luck, Jim.
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1970 MCI 7 serial # 8425
belfert
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« Reply #8 on: August 18, 2006, 06:07:01 PM »

Devin, I bought one of those 6 foot by 30" scaffolds off Craigslist for $95 just for the bus project.  (Even the Chinese ones cost twice that new.)  It would have taken me twice as long to cover the windows otherwise.  Even so, I wouldn't really want to windows myself. 

Jim, I'm in Shoreview right near 694 and 35E intersection.  Some solicone of some sort got on a high power rocket my friend painted for me and he sanded forever and the paint still peeled.  That is why I am leery on the silicone.

Brian Elfert
« Last Edit: August 18, 2006, 07:45:24 PM by belfert » Logged
Nick Badame Refrig/ACC
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« Reply #9 on: August 18, 2006, 07:27:41 PM »

Brian,

I used the butyl tape and sealed all the windows with Seam Sealer before it went to paint.

Absolutly no leaks...    Seam sealer can be purchaced at any auto body supply store. It's paintable and very resistant to cracking.

Good Luck
Nick-
« Last Edit: August 18, 2006, 08:14:18 PM by Nick Badame Refrig. Co. » Logged

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« Reply #10 on: August 18, 2006, 07:40:36 PM »

I'm a big fan of silicone seal but there is one problem, maybe two.

The PO of my 4104 used it to seal the top hinged windows. The windows must be swung open in order to change a glass. The silicone seal is hidden underneath a flange and there is no way to get to it to cut it out. Cutting the silicone is the only way I know to will release these windows.

Second, I think the ammonia in silicone seal corrodes Al. Not 100% sure of that but I would check it out first.
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