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Author Topic: GenSet  (Read 2000 times)
Bob Belter
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« on: July 15, 2010, 11:45:24 AM »

Ahoy, BusFolk,

This is in response to some questions on an email.  I thought that it might be of interest to others.

Here is info on the sound-box for my genset.  I (reluctantly) plumbed the cooling into the engine cooling.  As an airplane guy, NO engine should have the faintest notion that there is another engine anywhere around.  I don’t run my genset while driving, so the likelihood of dual failure is reduced.  You will need a fan to cool the genset when the main engine is not running.  I use  (a pair) of Mercedes fans, which are quite a bit noisier than the genset.  The dynamo cranks out quite a bit of heat by itself, and a fair amount of noise, in addition to that from the engine.  I have ducted it separately. 

BTW, a very effective exhaust pipe insulation is to use fiberglass boat cloth and household aluminum heavy duty wrap.  Cut a piece of cloth ~~12” wide, and a piece of aluminum the same length  -   4’ to 6’ works just fine.  Use 3M spray glue to spray the pair together.  Then do it again on the other side, so you have an alum - glass cloth – alum sandwich.  Then trim the ‘frazzle’, and cut it in half for a pair of ~~6” wide pieces.  Use a straight edge to fold it to 3” wide, and spray glue it together.  Use that to spiral wrap your ‘hot stuff’ with glue and plastic ties.  The temps of the diesel exhaust will not hurt the material, and will just cook the adhesive from the inner layers. I have had this stuff on my pipes for several years, and you can still wrap your hand around the pipe when running.  This technique is very powerful in thermodynamic terms, tho I’ve long forgotten how to do the equations.

My flexible exhaust pipes for the genset are convoluted stainless steel from Flexicraft ph 800 533 1024  --  (They are still there – I just called).  A much better welder than me tried to TIG weld the thin tubing with fair results.  So  --  I silver brazed (50% silver) the joints  -  easy, and they remain OK. 

Sound box, built for my 12 KW genset:
 Start with ½” birch plywood, then two layers of 30# roofer’s felt, then one layer of 2 lb/sq/ft roofer’s lead sheet, then two more layers of felt, and then a layer of 1/2 “ plywood.   Sound labyrinths for the air in and out.   Two cheap mufflers in series.
This technique is very effective and very low cost.  Disadvantage is that it is a bit heavier than more elegant schemes.  Not such a big problem on a bus  --  You probably don’t want to fly it.   
(My 12kw system is so quiet, that if anyone anywhere around is running their genset, you cannot hear mine).  I had planned to include some internal sound absorbent material, but it was not needed.
BTW, my genset is a belt drive with a 3600 rpm dynamo.  A VW 1600 cc diesel turning about 2100 rpm.  Very light weight and compact for 12KW.  I has been a while, and those old VW diesels are now about ‘extinct’.  The modern VW  TDI is probably not a good choice today. 
These bus conversions last a long time, and when you use these ‘variously derived/adapted’ mechanisms, you had better line up your spares (I have).

A later series of questions:   

When you plumb the generator to the bus cooling system what do you use to circulate the coolant when parked?  A> The genset has its own water pump, so it just loops through the bus radiator.  As I mentioned above, it is TERRIBLE practice to do what I did!  Much better to have a dedicated genset radiator.
Do you not have any air circulation within the sound proof housing?  A>  Yes, I have an electric blower which blows outside air into the housing.
Where is your generator located in the bus?  A> Right rear corner –Eagle-01 – where the A/C stuff was located.
How much space is there between the soundproofing wall and the generator?  A>  Very little – in a couple of spots, I had to make small cut-outs.



I’ll publish this to the BusCon web too.
 

Enjoy  /s/  Bob
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« Reply #1 on: July 15, 2010, 02:40:25 PM »

Bob,

Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience! I'm sure it will be a huge help when us busnuts are scratching our heads on how to build a quiet box for our genset.

If you have any pictures, that would also be of interest. Maybe an article in the BCM would be great too!

Paul
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« Reply #2 on: July 15, 2010, 02:52:42 PM »

Bob, pictures please!!!!! We are ready to do the same and would like to see your setup.

Grant
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« Reply #3 on: July 15, 2010, 03:34:17 PM »

I'm there too!! I was going to make mine outta 1/8" al. sheets with insulation in between. But wood may be better for both sound dampening and heat. I'm just not sure about how to get lead. Would roofing supply places have it?

Plus, my "box", as it were, would have two ends open for air flow. That might be shooting myself in the foot right there.  Huh

Love to see pix!!!
  Chaz
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« Reply #4 on: July 15, 2010, 10:02:51 PM »

We will be doing this soon, so, would like to see pictures, and all the help when can get when it comes to keep the noise down as much as possible.
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« Reply #5 on: July 16, 2010, 06:43:22 PM »

I made my box from 3/4" plywood and one inside layer of fireproof 1/2" insulation from EHP.

Since the box has a lot of openings for air intake and exhaust it didn't make much sense to get carried away with insulation. It is very quiet anyway.

The genset is a Honda EV6010 water cooled, completely self contained, and sends out no vibes whatsoever.
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« Reply #6 on: July 16, 2010, 07:25:59 PM »

any time you can change air flow direction it quietens  gen noise--instead of running fresh air in straight make a couple of 90 degree bends.comercial sound asorbent materials are not that expensive to line box with...extra carpet pad on inside bus  helps deaden transferr noise...also I used a rubber Horse stall matt under Generator to insulate vibration to bus floor..just a few things that helped reduce interior noise level to under 40 ddb...good luck Bob
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