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Author Topic: Need help with Series 60 engine problem  (Read 2087 times)
belfert
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« on: August 21, 2006, 02:58:40 AM »

I started up my Series 60 engine yesterday to build up air pressure to unlock the luggage bays.  I forgot that I had disconnected a smaller heater hose and the stop engine light came on after a minute or so.  I then remembered the heater hose and shut off the engine.  I lost maybe a gallon of coolant.

Now, the check engine and stop engine light come on when the ignition is turned on without even starting the engine.  The start engine and check engine lights both come on for about 30 seconds like they should and then go out, but they come right back on after being off for about a second.

Any ideas?  I suppose I need to call the Detroit dealer in the morning.

Brian Elfert
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rv_safetyman
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Jim Shepherd


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« Reply #1 on: August 21, 2006, 03:33:15 AM »

Hi Brian.  The situation is almost certainly a "low coolant" sensor code.  Put some coolant in the surge tank and you should be fine. 

You can check the code with some fancy switching of the key, but I don't think you will need to do that.

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Jim Shepherd
Evergreen, CO
’85 Eagle 10/Series 60/Eaton AutoShift 10 speed transmission
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belfert
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« Reply #2 on: August 21, 2006, 05:42:57 AM »

Thanks jim.  I actually thought about the low coolant sensor after I posted here.  I haven't had time to try anything yet.

Brian Elfert
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Sammy
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« Reply #3 on: August 21, 2006, 06:36:34 AM »

Brian, top off the surge tank with coolant. Jim is right on the money with his suggestion.
Send e-mail if you need tech help.
Best of luck.
Sammy  Cool
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c-coop
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« Reply #4 on: August 21, 2006, 02:25:52 PM »

the stop engine light must be cleared with a pro-link or similar tool, the computer will always display the light until this is done
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H3Jim
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1995 Prevost H3-41, series 60, B500 Allison




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« Reply #5 on: August 21, 2006, 04:09:22 PM »

I have a series 60, 12.7  1995, DDec III

I had a stop engine failure due to overheatig when a fan belt broke.  I did not need to reset the stop engine light or system.  When it cooled down and had a new belt, I just drove it away. 

I have no doubt that when you add the coolant, that you will be back in business.
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Jim Stewart
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« Reply #6 on: August 22, 2006, 06:58:07 PM »

Its a simple job to put a switch in that will enable you to read out the flash codes via the SEL/CEL lights. The application/installation manual will show which two wires to use. Of course you can always just jumper out the two at you diagnastic plug for a quick read...
Hal
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Sammy
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« Reply #7 on: August 26, 2006, 03:49:04 PM »

Brian, the "active" code that triggered the "stop" engine light will become "inactive" when repair is made.
There will be NO check or stop engine lights on after repair is made.
It will remain as an inactive code in the DDEC ECM until it is cleared with DDDL or a ProLink.
If you need any further help just send an e-mail.
Best of luck with your repair.
Sammy  Cool
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belfert
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« Reply #8 on: August 26, 2006, 05:04:50 PM »

This is now fixed.  I lost a lot more coolant during the repairs.  (3 or 4 gallons)  I ended up putting in 5 or 6 gallons since some was also pumped out when I started the engine with the coolant line disconnected.

The stop engine light no longer stays on when the ignition is on.  I doubt the engine was hurt.  I do need to check the coolant after going for a drive.

Brian Elfert
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