Bus Conversions dot Com Bulletin Board
October 24, 2014, 11:46:07 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: If you had an Online Subscription: It arrives at least two weeks before the First Class printed magazine.
   Home   Help Forum Rules Search Calendar Login Register BCM Home Page Contact BCM  
Pages: [1] 2 3  All   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: My dilemma  (Read 3955 times)
opus
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 504





Ignore
« on: October 25, 2010, 07:37:13 PM »

First let me introduce myself, seeing I am new.  I am the owner of a 1995 Blue Bird All-American, ex-school bus.  As I mentioned earlier, I own and manage a gospel quartet.  We went this route for many reasons.
  • I've been around many entertainers, from 4106 to new H345's.  Couldnt afford one, wouldnt want one.  Anything I could afford would come with the previous owners nightmares.
  • I needed something that got at least 10mpg, this gets 11.
  • I needed something that was durable, had generic and available parts
  • I thought [sigh] it would be best if we converted it ourselves, that way we knew what we had, when something negative arose.
  • I'll be up front with you, I paid $5500 for this and will not have another $3k into it when I am done.  We arent doing this to make people look at it and go "wow".  On the other hand, we dont want it looking like a heap either.  It will be basic, yet extremely functional

This brings me to my dilemma.  The only thing I cant figure out at this time is the most economical, dead dog simple route to take for having heat while parked over night.  We opted to keep all the windows, which will have tyhermal curtains over them.  They are also tinted.
Anyways, it has a Webasto.  I am not totally sure that will fit our needs, well it would actually.  What i am not sure on is how to configure it with a thermostat, etc.  Will it be economical, probably not....thats a problem.  I would probably have to run a generator with it as well, to keep the batteries up.  Hot air heat for me is not an option.  Too dry and dusty around here for that, plus it gets too cold in the winters for it to keep up.  Maybe a ventilate propane heater stuck on the wall?  Electric heat?  Propane salamander...lol.  Just looking for brainstorming ideas now.  I would love to utilize the 400k btus worth of heaters I have onboard, which is why the Webasto intrigues me.

Enough rambling....you get the picture.  HELP......  Smiley  A few pics thus far: http://picasaweb.google.com/pmilne/Bus#
Logged

1995 BB All-American - A Transformation.
robertglines1
steam nut
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 4024





Ignore
« Reply #1 on: October 25, 2010, 07:57:19 PM »

A good investment is a laser thermometer from  harbor freight about 40 dollars...will tell you were your heat is getting out or where summer sun?heat is coming in. Insulation is the key to how much heat you need..I get away with 3 box heaters down to about 30 degrees..40ft coach...doing a 45 now will use heat pump for air and heat.again you need elect if you do that..I would think you would only have to use part of your Websco to heat the bus..with all the insulation you added..just thoughts..
Logged

Bob@Judy  98 XLE prevost with 3 slides --Home done---last one! SW INdiana
opus
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 504





Ignore
« Reply #2 on: October 25, 2010, 08:14:23 PM »

I've got one....good idea.  I am sure heat is going through the glass.  The termo curtains will help.  The roof will be shedding some heat too.  Way too much work involved to add insulation to the roof though.  Unless I added something to the interior visible skin.

We're taking it in a couple weeks as a trial.  Once I get the bunk room closed off with curtains I am going to try to keep the back section warm overnight, here and see how much a difference that makes.
Logged

1995 BB All-American - A Transformation.
robertglines1
steam nut
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 4024





Ignore
« Reply #3 on: October 25, 2010, 08:27:36 PM »

could try the foil bubble type insulation placed behind curtains when you are parked..also I used a mirror tint on the windows to help reflect daytime heat..can still see out good during day and it reflects sun..maybe you could put a 1/2 inch insulation under your headlinner.would act like a thermal break also..try a piece and shoot it with your gun..also on your walls I noticed you went between the wall frame.did you do anything to stop heat transferr to the steel. It goes both ways. if you notice on a cool morning you can see the outline of the frame in moisture on  the coach you are having a lot of transferr thru the steel  trying on this coach to stop that all together.  Bob
Logged

Bob@Judy  98 XLE prevost with 3 slides --Home done---last one! SW INdiana
robertglines1
steam nut
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 4024





Ignore
« Reply #4 on: October 25, 2010, 08:31:36 PM »

checked you pictures out ..looks like you got it going on...Good Job!
Logged

Bob@Judy  98 XLE prevost with 3 slides --Home done---last one! SW INdiana
Len Silva
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 4086


Angle Parked in a Parallel Universe


WWW

Ignore
« Reply #5 on: October 26, 2010, 04:54:21 AM »

That will be a nice looking and functional bus.  I think you are going to regret not having insulated the ceiling before putting up the interior.  Are the ceiling panels riveted or screw on?  I know that it's a big job to drop the panels and insulate, but it will be a MUCH bigger job when the interior is finished.
Logged


Hand Made Gifts

Ignorance is only bliss to the ignorant.
opus
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 504





Ignore
« Reply #6 on: October 26, 2010, 07:40:51 AM »

Are the ceiling panels riveted or screw on?  I know that it's a big job to drop the panels and insulate, but it will be a MUCH bigger job when the interior is finished.

They are riveted on.  There was no way ever I was going to pull those rivets.  If I was 20, I still dont think I would have pulled them...lol!  I did the rivets on the sidewall and that was bad!  If they were screwed on I would have done it.  There is an inch of regular glass batting in the roof.  Its not much, but its something.  While running down the road the heat will chase you out of there.  Its just the stopped overnight part that puzzles me at this time.
Logged

1995 BB All-American - A Transformation.
robertglines1
steam nut
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 4024





Ignore
« Reply #7 on: October 26, 2010, 08:18:43 AM »

I just read where your from.can understand need for good heat..Close to Glacier park? A RV furnace run on LP is a good  choice for overnight.40,000BTU. when you do your ceiling post here for ideas.several different methods have been used including ones capable of adding r-value..also know your summers even no not as long lasting as in Ind can be brutal hot..One idea : I have a elect fan 20 inch from Lowe's mounted over drivers seat..brings heat off ceiling to floor..Bob
Logged

Bob@Judy  98 XLE prevost with 3 slides --Home done---last one! SW INdiana
opus
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 504





Ignore
« Reply #8 on: October 26, 2010, 08:25:08 AM »

We're 150 mile west of Glacier.  Hmmm...an RV furnace.  Are they small, self contained, or is there a lot to them?

If I could somehow tap into the current heater lines and heat the water, I would be all set.  I have them all there, it sure would be nice to use what is there instead of adding something else.
Logged

1995 BB All-American - A Transformation.
robertglines1
steam nut
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 4024





Ignore
« Reply #9 on: October 26, 2010, 08:34:53 AM »

lp fired on demand hot water heater and circulation pump? would heat when you switched pump on/ Flow censored
Logged

Bob@Judy  98 XLE prevost with 3 slides --Home done---last one! SW INdiana
opus
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 504





Ignore
« Reply #10 on: October 26, 2010, 08:39:36 AM »

I've got the circulation pump issue solved.  Would this actually work?
Logged

1995 BB All-American - A Transformation.
Don4107
Sr. Member
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 407





Ignore
« Reply #11 on: October 26, 2010, 09:02:42 AM »

Since you have the Webasto, use it with some zone control.  The zone control could be as simple as using thermostats to control the fans on each heater. 

Good luck
Don 4107

Logged

Don 4107 Eastern Washington
1975 MCI 5B
1966 GM PD 4107 for sale
1968 GMC Carpenter
eddiepotts
Sr. Member
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 446





Ignore
« Reply #12 on: October 26, 2010, 09:16:57 AM »

You know you will need power of some sort. One of these heaters with a small fan running will turn your bus into a convection oven. http://www.lowes.com/pd_327108-16908-60351_4294934542+5003700__?productId=3172409&Ntt=heater&pl=1&currentURL=%2Fpl_100%2B200_4294934542%2B5003700__s%3FNtt%3Dheater%26page%3D2 One of the problems people don't think about is you still have to keep the air moving with heat.
Logged
cody
Guest

« Reply #13 on: October 26, 2010, 09:27:52 AM »

A fan is critical to keep the air from layering, the hot air will sit at the ceiling level with the cooler air at floor level, the problem with the electric fireplace idea is that it's large and bulky, you can get the same heat from a small electric box style heater that can be stored in a cabinet when not in use.  5000 BTU is still 5000 btu doesn't matter if it's coming from a large heater or small heater, the main thing is to keep the air moving so it doesn't layer.
Logged
robertglines1
steam nut
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 4024





Ignore
« Reply #14 on: October 26, 2010, 09:41:19 AM »

Do you have a gen set? Have you purchased your Air Conditioner unit?  Bob
Logged

Bob@Judy  98 XLE prevost with 3 slides --Home done---last one! SW INdiana
Pages: [1] 2 3  All   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.18 | SMF © 2013, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!